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  1. #1101
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    Nice chart, very helpful. According to that, the Reverb above the seat tube is 195mm, 195+ the 509 that is the Rip's seat tube length gives you 704mm. Raising the post 10mm gives him his proper seat height of 714mm, but still requires 215mm of post(225-the 10mm raised) inside the seat tube, and the Rip will only fit 205.

    Seems an awful low seat height for someone 6'1". Only about an inch and a quarter more than mine, and I'm three inches shorter with stubby legs. An extra centimeter of height, and he's all set, if barely. If his seat height's correct, he'll need to go with a 380-385mm post.

  2. #1102
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    Thanks guys for checking, doing the math and the graph is awesome (really useful). I have an Alum Jet 9 and a few months ago, I was considering a dropper for that but decided that I wanted a Rip and would wait until I got the Rip. I don't have the Jet 9 with me at the moment, it's at another location (in another state) but I did take some notes. Based on those notes, I could drop the seat post 247 mm (I mean jammed in, ha)inside the seat tube. The post height that I rode the Jet at was 198 mm above the seat tube (and collar). So that would work for the 420 reverb (alum Jet 9 that is) but the Rip RDO is another animal. So unless someone has can disprove the 205 mm max inside for the Rip RDO large (and this isn't a challenge), then I just need to wait until I get the bike to buy the dropper. If there is something wrong with my numbers or Rufus's number, I'll be able to figure that out when I get the bike. If the $241 deal is still there, then great, if not, I can find $300 Reverbs delivered just about anytime. Again, the chart is awesome, and is very useful. Thanks for finding it. My mind is still open, so any suggestions are welcome.

  3. #1103
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    Yes I would be going with the 380mm seat post with 125mm drop.

    On my Lge frame I run my seat height at 800mm, ( 755mm from the center of the cranks to the center of the seat rail clamp )

    I can run either 380 or 420mm Reverb, But choose to run 420mm.

    At 714 the seat is already 41mm lower than mine & I can't see why you would need to drop it 150mm, When you take into account that the 150mm drop post isn't really going to fit your setup anyway.



    Quote Originally Posted by rufus View Post
    So now we have to add up heights. You have 150mm for travel, approx 20mm for the cradle at the top, and approx 35mm for the collar at the bottom. All told, 205mm, +/-. This is the height of the post above the seat tube, if the post is slammed all the way in. It looks like you will need to have this post slammed, for the seat tube length of the large is 509mm, center of BB to top. 509 +205 = 714mm, your proper seat height.

    You subtract that 205 from either the 420 or 435 overall length of the posts, and you end up with 215/230 length, the length of seatpost that will need to fit inside the frame. I just stuck an old rigid seatpost into my old large frame, and all the way in, the measurement of post inside the frame comes out to be 205mm. So both the 420mm reverb, and 435mm KS Lev will be too long for your proper seat height, by 15, and 30mm respectively.

    I think you'll need to go with a 125mm travel post. unless I've totally fracked these calculations.
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  4. #1104
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    Yes I would be going with the 380mm seat post with 125mm drop.

    On my Lge frame I run my seat height at 800mm, ( 755mm from the center of the cranks to the center of the seat rail clamp )

    I can run either 380 or 420mm Reverb, But choose to run 420mm.

    At 714 the seat is already 41mm lower than mine & I can't see why you would need to drop it 150mm, When you take into account that the 150mm drop post isn't really going to fit your setup anyway.
    I run the 150mm reverb on a large RDO. It's too big for me at 6 feet fully extended unless its ultra step and i sit on the tip......and I can't get it low enough due to the short seat tube. See if you can do some test fitting at your lbs. I will switch to the 125mm version soon.

  5. #1105
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    Quote Originally Posted by shrink View Post
    I run the 150mm reverb on a large RDO. It's too big for me at 6 feet fully extended unless its ultra step and i sit on the tip......and I can't get it low enough due to the short seat tube. See if you can do some test fitting at your lbs. I will switch to the 125mm version soon.
    I thought you couldn't get a non-stealth reverb at 150mm (?) do you have a part number for it please?

  6. #1106
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    Idea!

    Quote Originally Posted by elias View Post
    I thought you couldn't get a non-stealth reverb at 150mm (?) do you have a part number for it please?
    Apologies mixed that one up.
    Its the 125mm that is too large and sticks out an inch, and i will go down to the 100mm. Thanks for pointing that out and make me measure, i might have just re-ordered the one i have.

  7. #1107
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    Quote Originally Posted by shrink View Post
    Apologies mixed that one up.
    Its the 125mm that is too large and sticks out an inch, and i will go down to the 100mm. Thanks for pointing that out and make me measure, i might have just re-ordered the one i have.
    What's your saddle height? I find it hard to believe at your height that the 125mm can be too high. I was using a 100 mm on the large frame I have, cause i couldn't get the 125 low enough for my seat height. But it was pretty close, only about 1-1.5cm too much. And I'm two inches shorter than you, with short legs proportionally.

  8. #1108
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    I think the problem is that he has gone for the longer post, So it doesn't go far enough into the frame, so he is having to use some of the drop to get the seat height right.

    If he went for the 380mm post this wouldn't be a problem.


    Quote Originally Posted by rufus View Post
    What's your saddle height? I find it hard to believe at your height that the 125mm can be too high. I was using a 100 mm on the large frame I have, cause i couldn't get the 125 low enough for my seat height. But it was pretty close, only about 1-1.5cm too much. And I'm two inches shorter than you, with short legs proportionally.
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  9. #1109
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    Monarch XX ?

    Looking for feedback on the following:
    Monarch XX 2016 XLoc 200 X 51 on a RIP RDO M
    Has anybody done this before?
    Interested in info regarding clearance issues, tunability and feel, compared to the original fox shock.

  10. #1110
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    I think the problem is that he has gone for the longer post, So it doesn't go far enough into the frame, so he is having to use some of the drop to get the seat height right.

    If he went for the 380mm post this wouldn't be a problem.
    Haven't seen where he said he had the 420mm post, just the travel at 125.

    yeah, the 125 travel/380 overall length Reverb should fit fine on a large frame. The 100mm dropper post, I would be concerned about not having enough post in the frame, not extending down past the toptube/seattube junction.

  11. #1111
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    Just got back from the first ride with a new 50mm stem. Handling was almost telepathic. Just felt so right.

  12. #1112
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    I got my RIP RDO tonight, unboxed it, and everything looks great. I made all the required dropper post measurements and found that the dropper post would only go in 200 mm into the seat tube. Rufus had stated as much (205mm) and so I'll need the 380 mm dropper. I found the Reverb in a 380 w/ the right button but the left side button is out of stock. Reading through the pages of this massive thread, I found someone who used the right button on the left side (underneath). Without having a reverb to look at in hand, can someone tell me if this is a good idea? I'm converting to a 1x10 drive train and I definitely want to use my left thump to activate. Reverb users, is the right button on the left side a good idea or is that going to be ackward?

  13. #1113
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    Right on the left bottom is the way to go for sure.


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  14. #1114
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    Agree, I have mine set up that way, love it that way.

  15. #1115
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    Quote Originally Posted by motox72 View Post
    I got my RIP RDO tonight, unboxed it, and everything looks great. I made all the required dropper post measurements and found that the dropper post would only go in 200 mm into the seat tube. Rufus had stated as much (205mm) and so I'll need the 380 mm dropper. I found the Reverb in a 380 w/ the right button but the left side button is out of stock. Reading through the pages of this massive thread, I found someone who used the right button on the left side (underneath). Without having a reverb to look at in hand, can someone tell me if this is a good idea? I'm converting to a 1x10 drive train and I definitely want to use my left thump to activate. Reverb users, is the right button on the left side a good idea or is that going to be ackward?

    Yes, you can mount the right side remote upside down on the left side with no issues. I think it actually works better that way because the button will be on the bottom which is more natural to reach with your thumb than trying to reach for a button that's on top of your bars.

  16. #1116
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    Alright, great info guys. Thanks so much for the fast response. I just ordered it from Merlin's cycle for $241....

    I'm burning through the cash. ha!

    On a side note, I really like the design of the KS LEV but was concerned about the CS in the event of a problem.

  17. #1117
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    The RH remote under the bar on the LH side is ok, In fact I know a few people that like it more.


    Quote Originally Posted by motox72 View Post
    I got my RIP RDO tonight, unboxed it, and everything looks great. I made all the required dropper post measurements and found that the dropper post would only go in 200 mm into the seat tube. Rufus had stated as much (205mm) and so I'll need the 380 mm dropper. I found the Reverb in a 380 w/ the right button but the left side button is out of stock. Reading through the pages of this massive thread, I found someone who used the right button on the left side (underneath). Without having a reverb to look at in hand, can someone tell me if this is a good idea? I'm converting to a 1x10 drive train and I definitely want to use my left thump to activate. Reverb users, is the right button on the left side a good idea or is that going to be ackward?
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  18. #1118
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    Well, I've got that shiny new bike problem (just like shiny new car syndrome), I'm obsessed with trying to keep it looking new (this eventually wears off). The last new bike was Raw, so it's very forgiving scratch-wise. I'm interested in what several of you have done and what Muzz did as far as covering you bike in clear, protective tape. I'm not sure how you did it without showing the seams and it just looking less than ideal with all the rounds tubes, cable exits, ect. .5 mm is pretty thick, that's .02 inches. When you cut out templates, did you do whole sections at a time (like the top tube, ect? I can always just cover the high rock hit, chain hit and cable rub areas, and leave it that if not happy to the full wrap approach. In theory, I love the full wrap idea.

    Muzz wrote: The .5mm thick 3M stone guard is very easy to fit, The .3 thick is a pain in the A$$ so don't use it.
    I cut out templates with printer paper as I go, Then make the 3M panel when I'm happy, much better to waste paper.

  19. #1119
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    Quote Originally Posted by icenoir View Post
    So i just received my Rip 9 Alloy frame from Pricepoint. I had them install the headset -
    build:
    Headset: Cane Creek 40
    Bars: Salsa Bend 2, 17Deg.
    Truvative AKA Stem, 70mm
    Fork: X-Slide 120
    Wheelset: PWB build - Easton Arc 27.5, BHS/ Bitex hubs
    Brakes: Shimano SLX
    Cassette: SLX
    Triggers: Saint
    Mech: Zee
    Pedal: Time atac.
    Cranks: SLX with Abs. Black Oval ring
    Post: Easton carbon T40
    Grip: Ergon
    Tires: Ardent 2.4, Ikon 2.35.

    Wheels wont ship for a week, pics when its done.
    HERE it is. Went with Trail Boss 2.4 instead of Ardent. No ride yet.

    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-20151119_113742.jpgThe RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-20151119_113754.jpgThe RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-20151119_210739.jpg

  20. #1120
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    Has anyone else had trouble with the Fox Float CTD on their RDO? The compression dampening on this bike, doesn't change no matter the setting. I did multiple tests at 135 and 150 psi, even tried reducing the pressure down to 20 psi so I could move the rear shock by pressing down the seat with my hand. No difference, basically, it's seems to be stuck in the open position, the trail or climb modes do nothing. I've contacted Fox for an RA, figured it be easier and more direct than dealing with Price Point. Fox has been good so far. I imagine this bike has been sitting in storage for awhile.

    Update:
    Fox was great about it, reacted right away, sent me a shipping label and off it goes. I'm waiting on other parts for the bike anyway, so I have time.
    Last edited by motox72; 11-20-2015 at 11:45 AM. Reason: expand response

  21. #1121
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    It takes a long time, I spend 3 full nights watching TV & just working away at it.

    It does get easier the more you do.

    I did the big tubes in 1 big piece ( But the curved bit at the seat tube end I did with a piece of it's own.

    It is much easier to use paper to make templates, With the seams mating up you don't really see them when the bike is built up.


    Quote Originally Posted by motox72 View Post
    Well, I've got that shiny new bike problem (just like shiny new car syndrome), I'm obsessed with trying to keep it looking new (this eventually wears off). The last new bike was Raw, so it's very forgiving scratch-wise. I'm interested in what several of you have done and what Muzz did as far as covering you bike in clear, protective tape. I'm not sure how you did it without showing the seams and it just looking less than ideal with all the rounds tubes, cable exits, ect. .5 mm is pretty thick, that's .02 inches. When you cut out templates, did you do whole sections at a time (like the top tube, ect? I can always just cover the high rock hit, chain hit and cable rub areas, and leave it that if not happy to the full wrap approach. In theory, I love the full wrap idea.

    Muzz wrote: The .5mm thick 3M stone guard is very easy to fit, The .3 thick is a pain in the A$$ so don't use it.
    I cut out templates with printer paper as I go, Then make the 3M panel when I'm happy, much better to waste paper.
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  22. #1122
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    Quote Originally Posted by arashi View Post
    Yes, you can mount the right side remote upside down on the left side with no issues. I think it actually works better that way because the button will be on the bottom which is more natural to reach with your thumb than trying to reach for a button that's on top of your bars.
    I assume would feel just like using a shifter.

    As for taping, I probably didn't do a great job, as far as making it invisible. I don't even know the difference between the .5mm or the .3 or where to get each one. I just bought some off ebay.

    For the rear stays, on the new frame, I just found it was easier to wrap short pieces around the circumference of the stays, rather than try to wrap a longer piece lengthwise. The bends and shaping of the tubes were a pain in the ass to get the tape to sit down flat on doing it lengthwise. I'd fold a piece over them, with the paper backing on, figure how much I needed to cut to cover the stay, then cut off about a 2-3" segment, stick it on, and then do another, butting the seams up next to each other. It was really easier to do it that way, working around the cable guides and such. May not be perfect, but it's the job it does, not how it looks, that's important to me.

    Did the downtube this way also, cutting a longer piece that would wrap around about half of the tube, pretty much cover the bottom half of the tube's circumference, leave the top half as is.

    If it's like the old frame, the dirt seems to collect along the tape seams over time. When it starts looking really ugly, peel it off and do it over.

  23. #1123
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    Mine in Black and White.

    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-20151202_221955.jpg

    o i just received my Rip 9 Alloy frame from Pricepoint. I had them install the headset -
    build:
    Headset: Cane Creek 40
    Bars: Salsa Bend 2, 17Deg.
    Truvative AKA Stem, 70mm
    Fork: Pike Dual 150-120
    Wheelset: PWB build - Easton Arc 27, BHS/ Bitex hubs
    Brakes: Shimano SLX
    Cassette: SLX
    Triggers: Saint
    Mech: Zee
    Pedal: Time atac.
    Cranks: SLX with Abs. Black Oval ring
    Post: Easton carbon T30
    Grip: Ergon
    Tires: Trail Boss 2.4, Ikon 2.35.
    Last edited by icenoir; 12-04-2015 at 05:41 AM.

  24. #1124
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    Why running as a 27.5?

  25. #1125
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    monarch xx

    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-dsc02076.jpg
    Well, I went ahead with it.
    For the time being all I can say is it works and I am happy I made the purchase.
    The locked mode is really sweet though!
    Will return soon with more details, just want to get the tuning right.

    Enjoy the holidays!

  26. #1126
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    I just saw these offset shock bushings Offsetbushings.com | Standard & Offset bicycle shock hardware ? Offset Bushings | Shock Mounting Hardware and I'm curious as to other people's thoughts on their application on the RIP9/RIP9 RDO. I certainly would like to try a little slacker HTA and lower BB height on my RDO. Seems like a cheap and easy/effective solution, but maybe I'm missing something.

  27. #1127
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    Quote Originally Posted by OhioPT View Post
    I just saw these offset shock bushings Offsetbushings.com | Standard & Offset bicycle shock hardware ? Offset Bushings | Shock Mounting Hardware and I'm curious as to other people's thoughts on their application on the RIP9/RIP9 RDO. I certainly would like to try a little slacker HTA and lower BB height on my RDO. Seems like a cheap and easy/effective solution, but maybe I'm missing something.
    I didn't try this on a RIP, but on a bike very much like the WFO. Loved it. I wouldn't say it completely transforms the bike, but I only got about .5 degree slacker, and less than half an inch lower. Different bikes with different linkage setups achieve different results. Whether you use a 6mm or 8mm bolt makes a difference, too. Shoot them an email and they can probably tell you what your outcome will be. Exactly what I was looking for at the time.

  28. #1128
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    Quote Originally Posted by kragu View Post
    I didn't try this on a RIP, but on a bike very much like the WFO. Loved it. I wouldn't say it completely transforms the bike, but I only got about .5 degree slacker, and less than half an inch lower. Different bikes with different linkage setups achieve different results. Whether you use a 6mm or 8mm bolt makes a difference, too. Shoot them an email and they can probably tell you what your outcome will be. Exactly what I was looking for at the time.
    Very interesting. Please report back. I am very interested in this as well. Half a degree would be all I am looking for with my 140/160mm front

  29. #1129
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    Will do. It may be a while. I'm testing some wide rims and tires next, so one change at a time so I can evaluate more effectively.

  30. #1130
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    Quote Originally Posted by OhioPT View Post
    Will do. It may be a while. I'm testing some wide rims and tires next, so one change at a time so I can evaluate more effectively.
    I hear you. Took me a long time to get the bike dialed. Getting the bars down and shortened to 760mm from my initial 780mm did the trick for me with a 50mm stem.

  31. #1131
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    Quote Originally Posted by backinmysaddle View Post
    I had to replace some rings as a result of what I think is pretty premature drive train wear. I only got about 8 months of riding from my 28t Wolftooth front ring and the stick 42t cog on my xx1 cassette.

    I replaced both this week, opting for a 24t stainless steel Wolftooth front ring and a blue replacement 42t cog for the cassette (also from Wolftooth). The 24t in front lets me get of the 42t and use gears 2 and 3 more on my climbs. Those gears are steel, so arent subject to wear as much as the 42t one is. The blue cog is a nice matchy-matchy touch with the blue niner paint.

    Not sure if anyone else has seen this, but it is definitely a chain line issue. I used a spacer on the non-drive side (that's apparently how GXP works) and moved the chain line over a bit. Hopefully that should reduce wear in gears 1/2/3 a bit. The 28t front ring was completely ground down on the outside due to sharp chain line in the granny gears (which I use a lot around here!)

    Attachment 1014377
    I have a 1x10 setup with Sunrace 11-42 cassette, XT 11 speed rear derailleur, XT 10 speed shifter, and Race Face ride crankset and 32t Narrow-wide ring. The drag when in the 42t cog was bad. I moved the 1mm spacer on the crank spindle from the DS to the NDS, which is supposed to give a 49mm chain line. I then installed a One-Up 30t chainring, which has an offset shoulder so the ring clears the spider arms, and as an added bonus it shifts the chain line over another 2-2.5mm. My chain line is now on the 5th biggest (lowest gearing) cog, which is probably as good as you can get for a 1x, and there is much less drag in the 42 cog. The smaller 30t ring should keep me off the 42 more as well.

  32. #1132
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    I really recommend this! I put Bergtec offset on my RIP and it made a huge difference - lowered the BB by about .4".

    I also lowered the forks to 130mm, which made it better for where I live, better for climbs and made the seated position feel a bit more natural, but I wish I would have swapped them back to 140mm for some of the trips I took out of town.

    My Full Review:
    Drunken Decisions... Niner RIP 9 Review

  33. #1133
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    Ordered a leftover 2015 RDO frame in licorice. Will swap over as much as can from my Kona Process 111. Of coarse had to get a 140 Pike. Can't wait!

  34. #1134
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    On My 2015 Rip 9, I'm also running a 1 by 10 setup. Race face narrow/wide 32 up front with a Race Face Ride Crank and Sunrace 11-42 cassette, Goat Link, on back with XT shifter and XT derailleur(long cage).. Now with the 11/42, I really like the 1 by 10. May try the Absolute Black Oval 34 soon. Love my RIP 9, Sram Guide R brakes w/ 180 rotors, 2016 Fox Talus 34 140/110 mm fork, Race Face Wheels with Geax Goma's (tubeless)... All I can say is this bike is awesome. I think the 16 Fox Talas has slot to do with it.

  35. #1135
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    I have a 14 RIP RDO. The lower front suspension bearing loosened up on me. I tightened it back down with the cassette tool and a torque wrench but I still have a tiny bit of play left in it. Per internet research it appears I need to check the "bearing pre-load" now.

    I assume I take the air out of shock and take out the bearing cap with the cassette tool. Are there any online instructions on what to do next? Do I need to remove the drivetrain to get to the other side? Niner has a video that covers the top part of the suspension but they completely ignore what to do with the lowers.

    Thanks
    Kevin

  36. #1136
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    Quote Originally Posted by dba4life View Post
    I have a 14 RIP RDO. The lower front suspension bearing loosened up on me. I tightened it back down with the cassette tool and a torque wrench but I still have a tiny bit of play left in it. Per internet research it appears I need to check the "bearing pre-load" now.

    I assume I take the air out of shock and take out the bearing cap with the cassette tool. Are there any online instructions on what to do next? Do I need to remove the drivetrain to get to the other side? Niner has a video that covers the top part of the suspension but they completely ignore what to do with the lowers.

    Thanks
    Kevin
    All three bearings are the same. You do not need to take air out of the shock or remove the drive train. Just use your cassette tool to remove the outside bolt on both lower pivots. Then the non drive side of the linkage will come off. You can then adjust the bearing preload on the adjuster nuts. You might as well check both. They should be snug but not over tightened, just like a headset. Then put it all back together and torque it down. You should probably put new blue loctite on the locking bolts. Really it should take no more than 5 to 10 minutes. I do it in my shop in under 5 no problem.
    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    If I told you I saw a unicorn ****ing a leprechaun trail side, you'd probably be suspicious.

  37. #1137
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    Wow - awesome reply and fast. Thanks so much.

    Quote Originally Posted by PeopleForScience View Post
    All three bearings are the same. You do not need to take air out of the shock or remove the drive train. Just use your cassette tool to remove the outside bolt on both lower pivots. Then the non drive side of the linkage will come off. You can then adjust the bearing preload on the adjuster nuts. You might as well check both. They should be snug but not over tightened, just like a headset. Then put it all back together and torque it down. You should probably put new blue loctite on the locking bolts. Really it should take no more than 5 to 10 minutes. I do it in my shop in under 5 no problem.

  38. #1138
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    I got into the suspension tonight and overall it was pretty easy. The bearing preload screws were just a little lose on all three bearings. Snugged them up, cleaned it up and reapplied blue locktite and put it back together. Back to having no play at all in the suspension. Thanks for the help. Of course what takes you 5-10 took me approx an hour....but it will be faster next time...

    Quote Originally Posted by PeopleForScience View Post
    All three bearings are the same. You do not need to take air out of the shock or remove the drive train. Just use your cassette tool to remove the outside bolt on both lower pivots. Then the non drive side of the linkage will come off. You can then adjust the bearing preload on the adjuster nuts. You might as well check both. They should be snug but not over tightened, just like a headset. Then put it all back together and torque it down. You should probably put new blue loctite on the locking bolts. Really it should take no more than 5 to 10 minutes. I do it in my shop in under 5 no problem.

  39. #1139
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    Ive been using this thread for a while to help me decide on a new bike.. Just ordered a white rdo size large from my LBS. Should be here in a day or two.. Meanwhile I've gathered a 130mm pike and raceface next handlebars and a 50 mm stem. The rest of the parts are mostly switching over from my old hardtail (X1 cranks, Niner wheels and slx brakes). I plan on xt drivetrain and still on the fence for a dropper post. I'm leaning towards the ks lev, but need a suggestion on what size. I'm 5'11 with 32" inseam. Just wanted to share my excitement and I'll update with pictures when I can!!

  40. #1140
    Carbon & Ti rule
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    What seat height do you run ?

    I'm 6 foot & love my Lge, I run my seat at 800mm high.


    Quote Originally Posted by Firken-eh View Post
    Ive been using this thread for a while to help me decide on a new bike.. Just ordered a white rdo size large from my LBS. Should be here in a day or two.. Meanwhile I've gathered a 130mm pike and raceface next handlebars and a 50 mm stem. The rest of the parts are mostly switching over from my old hardtail (X1 cranks, Niner wheels and slx brakes). I plan on xt drivetrain and still on the fence for a dropper post. I'm leaning towards the ks lev, but need a suggestion on what size. I'm 5'11 with 32" inseam. Just wanted to share my excitement and I'll update with pictures when I can!!
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  41. #1141
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    Not sure I haven't measured it. Decided late last night to order a carbon post for now. Henson had a Niner post for $40 which sounds a heck of a lot better after all these other puchases

  42. #1142
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    MRP Taco Guard installed

    I replaced the poly bashguard on my Rip9 with a AB Bash guard as the poly guard would not fit inside the SLX dual ring setup, but had to go on the outside, and just looked wrong. The AB Guard is gorgeous, but very thin. As Poly guards slide over rocks much better, i decided to go with an MRP taco guard.

    To get it to fit, I had thin out the guard in the rear to clear the linkage, and thin it where the 28t oval ring would strike it, but otherwise it is a perfect fit. I previously made a frame scrapper plate, which also had to be trimmed a bit to fit the guard.

    Overall, I am very happy with the guard. Let me know what you think.

    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-20160329_192645%5B1%5D.jpgThe RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-20160329_192720%5B1%5D.jpgThe RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-20160330_081909.jpgThe RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-20160329_192604.jpg

  43. #1143
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    My new steed

    Fox 34 float 140mm
    Chris King bottom bracket,
    Chris King hubs with flow hoops.
    Cane Creek Head set
    XT brakes
    XT Ice tech rotors
    XT cranks
    XT shadow plus
    Dropper Post
    WTB saddle
    Enve DH bars
    Easton Havoc 50mm stem

  44. #1144
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    Has anybody used an angleset with their RIP 9 RDO?

    I've got a 140mm fork and am looking for a slightly more slacked out feel, was just looking for some advice from anybody who's done it.

  45. #1145
    Deere Rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29Time View Post
    Has anybody used an angleset with their RIP 9 RDO?

    I've got a 140mm fork and am looking for a slightly more slacked out feel, was just looking for some advice from anybody who's done it.
    Yes. I use a Works Components -1 headset on my 2015 Rip 9 RDO. I run a Pike at 130mm and this gives me a head angle of about 68.5 deg. I also run the same thing on my Giant Anthem X 29 carbon.

    I really like the addition on the RDO.

  46. #1146
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    2015 Rip 9 RDO

    Pike @ 130mm
    -1 Works Components headset ~ 68.5 deg head angle

    I really want an excuse to sell this bike with all the drama in the new wave of 29ers these days. But the RDO just handles so well despite so-called "dated" geo. Granted I have slackened things out a bit. But it just fits that classic trailbike mold perfectly. I'm thinking it's around for at least another season.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-20160330_161857.jpg  

    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-20160330_161911.jpg  

    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-20160330_161924.jpg  


  47. #1147
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    Quote Originally Posted by ACLakey View Post


    My new steed

    Fox 34 float 140mm
    Chris King bottom bracket,
    Chris King hubs with flow hoops.
    Cane Creek Head set
    XT brakes
    XT Ice tech rotors
    XT cranks
    XT shadow plus
    Dropper Post
    WTB saddle
    Enve DH bars
    Easton Havoc 50mm stem
    Nice build bro!

  48. #1148
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    Quote Originally Posted by titusquasi View Post
    2015 Rip 9 RDO

    Pike @ 130mm
    -1 Works Components headset ~ 68.5 deg head angle

    I really want an excuse to sell this bike with all the drama in the new wave of 29ers these days. But the RDO just handles so well despite so-called "dated" geo. Granted I have slackened things out a bit. But it just fits that classic trailbike mold perfectly. I'm thinking it's around for at least another season.
    Right on! The RIP9 is a fine bike. Question about the headset: all I see for the upper portion is the EC44, not the ZS44 that Niner specifies. What did you end up using?

  49. #1149
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    Quote Originally Posted by OhioPT View Post
    Right on! The RIP9 is a fine bike. Question about the headset: all I see for the upper portion is the EC44, not the ZS44 that Niner specifies. What did you end up using?
    Correct. The upper cup is the EC44. I believe they had to do this in order to be able to create the angle. So the upper cup is an External Cup 44. It adds about 1/4" to the stack height of the head tube.

  50. #1150
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    Thanks for the info!

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