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  1. #501
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    Its difficult to see in the picture but I think I may have bought a road saddle for the bike. Its a Selle San Marco blaze saddle. I got a good deal on it so I bought it.

  2. #502
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    Maybe a future upgrade or when I find a good deal.
    Chainreation has Reverb's super cheap at the moment

  3. #503
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    Here is my build. I will post an updated picture of the bike after the headtube was cut soon.



    After you get the dropper post remount your tires so the Maxxis is centered around the valve stem.

    Then you'll be done!
    Niner Rip9 RDO
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  4. #504
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    Quote Originally Posted by blcman View Post
    After you get the dropper post remount your tires so the Maxxis is centered around the valve stem.

    Then you'll be done!
    Why should it be centered? lol

  5. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    Why should it be centered? lol
    If the logo isn't centered around the valve stem then the tire may blow up prematurely.

    It's your life you are risking!
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  6. #506
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    Quote Originally Posted by blcman View Post
    If the logo isn't centered around the valve stem then the tire may blow up prematurely.

    It's your life you are risking!
    He's joking. It's so you can pump the tire easier. Better when centered.
    '14 Lenz Lunchbox

  7. #507
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    Quote Originally Posted by blcman View Post
    Why not just get a CC 40 series from Jenson to save on shipping?
    King's are good but for the $$ so are CC 40 series headsets.
    Also just have a lbs install the headset for you if you don't feel comfortable doing it youself.
    As far as the Rip needing any chasing or facing, it does not. Should be good to go out of the box!
    Got the LBS to install the CC 40 which luckily they had in stock. Thanks for the info on the lack of facing needed. I am now going to air up and seal tires on my Stan's 3:30HD/3:30 Flow Ex wheelset then install them on the bike along with the seatpost, saddle and old riser bar and stem to get an idea how long of a stem I should order for it. I am 5' 11'', 33'' inseam and its a size medium so I am guessing around 100mm but need to see how it feels first as this is my first 29er. Any tips on fitment? Planning on getting an Answer Protaper Carbon 660 XC flat bar for it since its light, somewhat wide, reasonably priced (90 at pricepoint) and does not have a large backsweep like most wide flat bars which would result in a longer stem for the same handlebar position.

  8. #508
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazynate View Post
    Got the LBS to install the CC 40 which luckily they had in stock. Thanks for the info on the lack of facing needed. I am now going to air up and seal tires on my Stan's 3:30HD/3:30 Flow Ex wheelset then install them on the bike along with the seatpost, saddle and old riser bar and stem to get an idea how long of a stem I should order for it. I am 5' 11'', 33'' inseam and its a size medium so I am guessing around 100mm but need to see how it feels first as this is my first 29er. Any tips on fitment? Planning on getting an Answer Protaper Carbon 660 XC flat bar for it since its light, somewhat wide, reasonably priced (90 at pricepoint) and does not have a large backsweep like most wide flat bars which would result in a longer stem for the same handlebar position.
    Nooooo! on the 100mm stem! lol
    I'm exactly your size and I switch between a 70mm to a 50mm stem with a low rise 720mm bars on my medium.
    100mm stem will stretch you to far out AND slow up the steering to much. Stems are a realtively cheap and you should have a couple on hand.
    Last edited by blcman; 12-22-2012 at 11:48 PM.
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  9. #509
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    Quote Originally Posted by blcman View Post
    Nooooo! on the 100mm stem! lol
    I'm exactly your size and I switch between a 70mm to a 50mm stem with a low rise 720mm bars on my medium.
    100mm stem will stretch you to far out AND slow up the steering to much. Stems are a realtively cheap and you have a couple on hand.
    I almost bought a Large frame! That would have really stretched me out with even a short stem. 720mm bars are too wide for east coast singletrack even the 660mm bar I am thinking about is 2 inches wider than the Easton Monkey Lite SL Riser on my Maverick. Do you know if the 720 is measured before the bar is bent for the backsweep or after? Thanks for the help thinking about getting a 70mm stem to start now. I have an ancient 25.4mm clamp riser bar that is just under 26'' on a 70mm 25.4 stem now to try it out before ordering.

    All the parts are on the way now except brakes, which I am leaning towards XTR Race M985 which are 170 a set w/o rotors from jensonusa.

  10. #510
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    Rip 2010 raw color

    Here is RIP 2010. I love this bike.
    -Frame 2010, Med, 2010
    -Rider Weight: 175lbs
    -Rider Height/Inseam: 5'10/32"
    -Stem (length/rise): RaceFace 70mm
    -Headset: Cane Creek 40
    -Seatpost: KS adjustable seat post
    -Handlebar: Race face (AL, Length 725mm )
    -Rear Shock: Fox RP23.
    -Fork: 2011 Fox 32 Fox talas 95-120mm
    -Brake Setup: 2012 Formula The One w/ rotors (203F, 160R)
    -Drivetrain Setup: X.9 SRAM and XT crankset 2x10
    -Wheels: Stan's Arch EX Rim w/ Chris King Hubs
    -Saddle: Specialized
    -Pedals: Shimano XTR
    -Grips: ODI (black)

  11. #511
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    So with a shorter stem, to maintain a longer enough cockpit, I would need a bar with as little backsweep as possible? I am thinking about the Answer ProTaper 660 XC which has only 3 degrees of backsweep over the more common 9 degrees of backsweep to allow for a shorter stem for the same handlerbar position?

  12. #512
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    Here is my build. I will post an updated picture of the bike after the headtube was cut soon.

    Very nice looking build. Looks like you probably could easily ride it with 0 spacers just looking at where the bar height is currently.

  13. #513
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Very nice looking build. Looks like you probably could easily ride it with 0 spacers just looking at where the bar height is currently.
    Right now I have three spacers. I figured I'd give it a try before I go cutting down the tube some more . Btw, thanks!

  14. #514
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    Silly question but, what size flip lock are you guys using for the seat post? Salsa sells them in many sizes. I'm assuming a 32mm? Niner says 30.9mm seat post.

  15. #515
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    Silly question but, what size flip lock are you guys using for the seat post? Salsa sells them in many sizes. I'm assuming a 32mm? Niner says 30.9mm seat post.
    Off the top of my head I believe the seat collar to be 34.9-35mm?
    That's pretty standard for any frame with a 30.9mm seattube.
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  16. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by blcman View Post
    Off the top of my head I believe the seat collar to be 34.9-35mm?
    That's pretty standard for any frame with a 30.9mm seattube.
    Yep that's right.

  17. #517
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    Yep that's right.
    So what size flip lock do I buy?

  18. #518
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    34.9
    '14 Lenz Lunchbox

  19. #519
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    So what size flip lock do I buy?
    34.9mm

  20. #520
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    Thanks everyone

  21. #521
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    …slowly but surely…

    This Rip is slated to be rolling for Spring DuPont/Pisgah Ride…

    Can anyone name that crankset?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-rip9lr.jpg  

    { Brushog }

  22. #522
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    nope, but it sure is nice and clean....


    Picked up a complete 2010 RIP last month, have yet to ride it because of the snow.
    2012 SC Tallboy LTc X9 Talas Build in '13
    Prior bikes: 2012 Camber Comp 29er, 2010 RIP9, 2005 D'ale Prophet/Jekyll

  23. #523
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brushog View Post
    This Rip is slated to be rolling for Spring DuPont/Pisgah Ride…

    Can anyone name that crankset?
    Can't name it, but how many teeth on that outer ring? And what is the current clearance between the outer ring and the chainstay yoke?

    When that CVA gets active in the rear, if things are not hunky dory back there in terms of outer ring size and clearance, the old chain can hop up between the ring and the yoke and get stuck.

    I've been golden with a 40T, but had troubles with anything larger than that.

    BB

  24. #524
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    Rip 9 Chainring clearance

    Thanks Bruce!

    That 44 tooth ring is pretty close to the yoke at roughly 1/8" - -
    would love to avoid suck issues--where did you find a 40 with ramps?

    Crank is an Octalink LX I had laying around---buffed the black anodized material with jewelers rouge on the face---came out looking pretty trick -- glossy black onyx

    (same procedure with the old Ritchey post -- one can put a chrome mirrorlike finish on aluminum)

    I really like running the 42 on my Superfly -- for me the big ring is much smoother, sprints better and carries more momentum, its close to a full Niner now.

    What is the best chainstay silencer/protector for the Rip?
    { Brushog }

  25. #525
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brushog View Post
    Thanks Bruce!

    That 44 tooth ring is pretty close to the yoke at roughly 1/8" - -
    would love to avoid suck issues--where did you find a 40 with ramps?

    Crank is an Octalink LX I had laying around---buffed the black anodized material with jewelers rouge on the face---came out looking pretty trick -- glossy black onyx

    (same procedure with the old Ritchey post -- one can put a chrome mirrorlike finish on aluminum)

    I really like running the 42 on my Superfly -- for me the big ring is much smoother, sprints better and carries more momentum, its close to a full Niner now.

    What is the best chainstay silencer/protector for the Rip?
    In that Rip thread I linked, a MTBR poster named BRUZED machined up some custom rings to solve the problem in the 64/104mm BCD pattern. For a triple set up, he did a 30T middle ring and a 40T outer ring which is very nice gearing for a 29"er. He sells them here.

    When the chain bounces up in there, it's a pretty violent episode and it is usually caused when pedaling hard through some bumpy chunk.

    WideYokeChainStuck

    I've fought issues on both the RIP 9 and the JET 9 until I lowered my chainring sizes enough to remove most of the problems. It's not a Niner specific issue as other FS frames have had similar occurrences.

    If you push the rings out far enough with the BB spacers or a wider spindle BB, you can get enough clearance to prevent it. But in my case, I didn't want a Q factor of running a DH width spindle on my Octalink/Hollowtech set up so went with Russ Anderson's 30T and 40T (which go well with my 23T granny ring from Rotor). I was running a 29T/42T combo in 2 x 9 set ups (I like the 42T for sprints) on previous 29"ers including my 1st generation JET 9. However, the new Niner frames were redesigned to allow for larger rear tires and the tradeoff has been some possible chain stuck results with all the tight fit at the yoke - all depending on your chainline, Q factor, ring size and whether you are 2 x __ or 3 x ___.

    BB

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