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  1. #101
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    Nice RIP9, great build
    If the trails in the pics are indicative of what you ride I think you'll be quite happy with them - the Mtn.Kings love loamy - but if you have some good rock/hardpack you might not be so happy, especially with the 2.2" - small, tall knobs are quite squirmy on hardpack.

    Quote Originally Posted by fljohnmtbkr
    ................................Comments: I've only ridden it about a half dozen times from muddy to dry terrain. First impression is that cross country/downhill is fast and responsive. Uphill climbing not a huge difference from my 26", but that may be due to me being out of shape. Although locking front fork is a big plus. Shifting and braking is incredible. The Mt.King tires are awesome for muddy winter conditions, but not sure how they will do in dry summer trails. Going tubeless has been fine so far, although I do lose pressure in front for no reason. Love the Hope hubs. Also nice not having to take front tire on and off. Bought a Highroller upright bike mount. ................................
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by megalow maniac
    Main purpose (XC, AM, etc): XC and trail cruising
    -Trail location/terrain: Düsseldorf/Bergisches Land, Germany, fast singletrack, short but frequent up- and downhills.
    -Frame Year/Size/Color: 07/Large/Blue - Version 1.2 (with extra reinforcement gusset at the rear of the seattube)
    -Rider Weight: 190
    -Rider Height/Inseam: 6'5"/35,5"
    -Stem (length/rise): Thomson Elite, 120mm, 5 deg., no spacers.
    -Seatpost: USE Sumo straigt with 1cm layback
    -Handlebar: Salsa Pro Moto 11°bend
    -Rear Shock: Stock RP23
    -Rear settings (psi, etc.): 135psi, standard setting rebound (4 clicks)
    -Fork: Reba Race @ 100mm with remote poploc
    -Fork settings (psi, etc.): 135/145psi pos/neg.
    -Brake Setup: Formula Oro K24, 7" rotors front and rear.
    -Drivetrain Setup: 3x9, SRAM X9 rear derailleur, Middleburn cranks (175mm). Blackspire rings with 22,32,42t, crankbrothers cobalt CroMo bottom bracket.
    -Tires: Maxxis Ignitor 2,1" rear, Panaracer Rampage 2,35" front
    -Wheels: NoTubes ZTR Arch 29er with Hope Pro 2 hubs
    -Build Weight: no idea

    -Other 29er bikes owned: Niner Air9
    -Mileage on RIP9: constantly growing...
    -Future Changes: Easton EA 70 mid-rise handlebar. In the distant future probably a fork with more travel.
    -Comments, etc: Fun bike! Easy to climb with, smile-inducing on descends. A bit slow on the plains. This bike boosts my confidence in technical terrain!

    Now with mid-rise handlebar, Shimano Hone cranks and the sweet new Reba Team with Maxle light. The bike feels totally different now with this fork: Downhill I go much faster yet feel more confident. In the plains the bike pedals more efficiently even though the fork changes the geo from XC to more AM (I feel to be more "in" the bike)... Only downside is when going uphill: The front end lifts quickly. That was to be expected, though. After all, I really enjoy my RIP with the improved geometry and the added travel.


  3. #103
    Ballstein Models
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    Made a few changes while waiting for the trails to dry out around here. Thought I would share some R.I.P. 9 "Classic" bike pron


    -Frame Year/Size/Color: 2008 Large Hi-Po Silver
    -Fork: Fox F-29 120mm
    -Headset: Chris King No Threadset 1 1/8 Green Sotto Voce
    -Stem (length/rise): Hope 90mm 0 rise 31.8
    -Headset Cap: Niner YAWYD, bottle cap chosen: Rogue or Bells Oberon
    -Handlebar: Easton Monkeylite XC Carbon NanoTube
    -Bar Ends: Singletrack Solutions ST-Pro
    -Grips: ODI Ruffian Lock-on Green clamps
    -Brakes: Hope Tech M4 Disc brakes w/ steel braided lines
    -Brake Rotors: Hope M4 Floating 203mm/180mm Gold
    -Shifters: SRAM XO trigger w/ hope matchmakers
    -Saddle: Koobi PRS-Enduro
    -Seatpost: Thompson Elite Setback 34.9x367mm
    -Seatpost Collar: Salsa Green Fliplock QR
    -Rear Shock: Fox RP23
    -Pedals: Crank Bros Candy SL Black
    -Crankset: Silver Race Face Deus XC 175mm
    -Chainrings: Actiontec Ti 20t, MTBR member BRUZED's 30t, FSA 40t
    -Bottom Bracket: Chris King Green 68mm
    -Cassette: SRAM PCG-990 11-34t
    -Chain: SRAM PCG-991 cross link
    -Rear Derailleur: SRAM XO 20th anniversary medium cage
    -Front Derailleur: Shimano XTR M971
    -Cables : Allifgator iLinks Silver
    -Tires: Panaracer Rampage 29x2.35
    -Tubes: Stan's NoTubes solution
    -Wheelset: Industry Nine 29er Enduro Gold hubs, Gold spokes
    -Skewers: Salsa Flipoffs Green
    -Rims: Stan's ZTR Flow
    -Build Weight: 29.48 via digital scale
    -Other 29er bikes owned: Surly Karate Monkey, Soul Cycles Dillinger SS
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by hogprint; 04-20-2009 at 08:54 PM.

  4. #104
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    Update to My Original Post




    Purpose: XC/AM - Longer Rides than my GF HT
    Rider Height: 6'2"
    Weight: 210 (racing season), 220 all other times
    Frame: 2008 Closeout L/Anno Silver w/ Fox RP23
    Fork: Manitou Minute w/ 20mm thru Axle (black)
    Crankset: Truvativ Noir 3 Ring
    Shifters: SRAM x9
    Rear Derailleur: Sram x0
    Front Derailleur: XT
    Handlebars: Bontrager Race X-Lite Flat OS w/ 9 deg backswing
    Seatpost: Thomson Elite Setback
    Seat: WTB Devo
    Brakes: Avid Juicy 7 185mm front, 160mm rear rotors
    Headset: FSA Orbit Xtreme Pro
    Wheels: Stans Flows w/ WTB Laser Lite, Black DB Spokes,Red Nips
    Cassette: SRAM 990
    Chain: SRAM PG-990 Cross Step (970 is garbage)
    Stem: Race Face Deus XC
    Pedals: Shimano 545 (stolen off of my HT)

    Initial Thoughts: I have been riding the RIP for about 2 months now, and I am in complete and total love with this bike. It can go anywhere, do anything, climbs as well as my HT, feels in total control on the DH, and is comfortable to ride for hours. The T/A fork really adds to the difference in front end stiffness and I think it is one of my favorite differences of this bike from bikes in the past. I would rather change the picture, but I figured it was time to make this build post official.
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

  5. #105
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    schweet! we are gonna put that thing through the ringer at wilson's creek this weekend. I see you picked up one of the yeti sdg ti fly saddles from jenson while they were $50.00. I gave mine to motobutane because it clashed with my color scheme. As Deone Sanders always says, "lookin good is 90% of doing anything"

    Everyone all together welcome Keith to the Fray, you are amongst family now.;>)

  6. #106
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    I saw this Large RIP 9 frame at Sundance Cyclery, in Agoura Hills, CA. It was paid for last October, waiting for parts to build it up.... Sorry if the pic is blurry, only so steady can I hold my BlackBerry when I saw a new 2009 RIP.



    I wonder if this belongs to PaloComadoGrinder ?

  7. #107
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    That's my baby! BTW it's an XL. I'm 6'3" and between 200 and 215 lbs. depending on ratio of riding vs. tequila consumption. Watching another thread re: frame sizing I'm getting a bit worried that it'll be too big.

  8. #108
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    Hi All,

    As I spotted on the pictures mud clearance near the chainstay seams to be not the biggest I've ever seen.
    So here comes my question: did any of you experience any clogging problems? Especially while running wider tyres (2.3"+), or during winter time, or in sticky conditions?

    Will appreciate very much your reply.
    Cheers!
    I.

  9. #109
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    The 2009 RIP9 Setup Thread

    Since Our Dear Leader refuses to make a sticky I thought I'd launch this thread so that newbs don't get confused by a setup thread that talks about two very different models of the same bike (especially vis-a-vis clearance issues). Keep it near the top by posting your set-ups.

    Here's mine as originally built up:



    Original build was:

    09 Medium Niner RIP9 Frame
    Fox 120 RL OEM fork
    AmClassic wheels + Rampages
    SRAM X9 shifters + RD
    Shimano M771 FD
    Shimano XT 22/32/44 crankset
    SRAM 11-34 cassette
    Shimano Msomething SPDs (the nice ones but not XTR)
    Formula K24 brakes 180f/160r
    Raceface 400mm seatpost cut down to about 360mm
    WTB Pure saddle
    Raceface stem
    Dangerboy riser bars
    Odi/Oury lockons
    SRAM flak jacket cables (but will be swapped out for Gore cables ASAP)

    My regular rides are technical Ontario singletrack, LOTS of rocks and roots, fast descents, steep climbs and bits you need to trials your way through. With this bike I generally choose the hardest line, which is a new thing for me.

    I don't know the exact pressures but I am running about 25% sag front and back. Even on fairly big hits. Back is around 140 psi, front around 90 I think but I have not got it dialled yet. I will say that the bike seems to work well with a big range of pressures... you can change the feel completely from an XC stiffness to an AM plushness. I have not done anything more than a 3' drop to flat on this bike but it feels like it could handle a LOT more.

    Tires are running 30 psi front, 32ish rear.

    I wrapped the chainstay in an innertube. I the the upper chainstay needs wrapping too.

    I ran into the same problem as several other people, which is the chain sucking up between the big ring and the chainstay. This only happened for me when the chain was muddy, but round here that's often enough that it's a deal breaker. I did have a bent big ring tooth but straightening it out didn't solve the problem.

    My solution was a new Ultegra chain and a bash ring to replace the 44. No problems since then. I will probably go for a 42 at some point if that seems to work for folk.

    Awesome bike. Incredibly confidence inspiring.
    All problems in mountain biking can be solved by going faster, except the ones that are caused by going too fast.

  10. #110
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    Does the tapered fork still take a 1 1/8 headset? Or you you need something special?

  11. #111
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    What size Lizard Skin?

    Does anyone know what size Lizard Skin chainstay protectors fit?
    Going to slap one on the top and bottom chainstays.

    Thank you.

  12. #112
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    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
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    If I remember right it takes about a 1/3 length of a 26" inner tube cut in 1/2 Seriously, throw on the inner tube and get cheap and very effective noise dampening. I was all worried about looks when got my firs nice bike - Giant Trance - and used a Lizard Skin, but it didn't cover the entire stay and the Trance had hydro formed stays that didn't quite fit any of the standard sizes. By the time I got my RIP9 I had figured out that innner tubes fit any shape and size, cost nada and work absolutelu at absorbing the impacts and deadening the noise- first thing I did before even considering building it up was to wrap the stays.

    Quote Originally Posted by BoomingSooner
    Does anyone know what size Lizard Skin chainstay protectors fit?
    Going to slap one on the top and bottom chainstays.

    Thank you.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  13. #113
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    Hey, awesome details. I'm going to merge this into the RIP thread so we can keep all the RIP materials nice and tidy.

    Your dear leader,

    p.

  14. #114
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    The Jumbo fits the lower chainstay nice and tight. Two pairs of hands helps with installation.

  15. #115
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    I have had really good luck with road bike handlebar tape in stead of a Lizzard skin...super durable...the "padded" type tones down the chain slap noise...some high quality black elec tape to finish off the ends with a zip tie for good measure

  16. #116
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    I'm in the inner tube camp. I don't even cut mine in half, just wrap it on as is and secure with a zip tie. I like the way it looks... don't f*&^ with me.

    I also use inner tubes to wrap the upright on my hitch-mount bike carrier.
    All problems in mountain biking can be solved by going faster, except the ones that are caused by going too fast.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkheadedbug
    I'm in the inner tube camp. I don't even cut mine in half, just wrap it on as is and secure with a zip tie. I like the way it looks... don't f*&^ with me.

    I also use inner tubes to wrap the upright on my hitch-mount bike carrier.

    Do you leave the valve stems on for deep water crossings? You know....just in case
    "No good deed goes unpunished"

  18. #118
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    Took my new RIP9 out in the woods the other day. This is my first full-suspension bike, so I haven't got much to compare it to, except a few 29er hardtails. But I must say it feels really great, and so much more comfortable when spending many hours out on the trails.

    Here's a pic of the bike as it is right now:




    Frame: 09 RIP9 size L Milk Dud Ano
    Fork: 08 Minute 120mm QR
    Drivetrain: XT
    Brakes: XT 160mm f/b
    Stem: Thomson X4 70mm
    Bar: Easton EA70 high-riser
    Seat and post: Some old stuff
    Wheels: Arch 32h with XT hubs
    Tires: Racing Ralph 2.4 front and 2.1(?) rear.
    Weight: No clue. Out on the trails I can hardly feel the weight difference from the Air9.

    The wheels are from my Air9, but worked fairly good. Anyway, I have some newly built wheels ready to go on: Flow 36h with Shimano Saint hubs, 10mm axle rear and 20mm axle front. I was sent a wrong fork with 9mm QR instead of the 20mm, but got it dirt cheap, so I will be using it until I can pick up another 120mm with 20mm axle on sale. The seatpost is an old Kona, but I've got a Thomson Elite here, just have to swipe the floor to find the bolts I dropped and lost. Also, I'm 185cm (6'1") tall with normal proportions, and a 70mm stem feels a lot better than a 90mm for me (on a size L frame). Rear shock pressure I don't know yet. Felt pretty good right out of the box, with about 25 % sag, maybe a little more. Will have to fine-tune once I get to know the bike a bit better.

    I think this will be a great season with an awesome bike out riding the trails here in Norway. Thanks for reading, and here are some more photos for you. Happy riding!














  19. #119
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    Nice Ride & Pictures......

    - I'm close to a photo-rundown of my new RIP. 15qr/Taper Fork should be here anytime and a new set of brakes to top it off.....

    I will say, my bike is light, fast, and I have not had any issues whatsoever. In fact I raced it last weekend after 1 break-in ride to 2nd place in the 10 man 24HOA at Laguna Seca. We completed 2 full laps more than last year so it's AT LEAST, IF NOT MORE efficient than my 07' RIP even though it does weigh a little more.

    VERY happy!

  20. #120
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    Some very nice photos indeed, Sweet looking RIP9 looks like a very sweet bit of trail there. Like the first pic very much, first one I've seen that I actually think the Milk Dud looks OK. Got to ask though......Racing Ralphs Come on throw on some real rubber on that baby and experienced what it really can do

    Quote Originally Posted by theDuke
    Took my new RIP9 out in the woods the other day. This is my first full-suspension bike, so I haven't got much to compare it to, except a few 29er hardtails. But I must say it feels really great, and so much more comfortable when spending many hours out on the trails.

    Here's a pic of the bike as it is right now:


    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  21. #121
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    Thanks for the comments! The wheels were just borrowed from my Air9 to do some riding while waiting for the more beefy ones to get done. Now they're here, and will be paired with more juicy tires.

    As for mountainbiking here in Norway, check out this stuff and also this to see what it's all about
    Last edited by theDuke; 06-12-2009 at 05:38 AM.

  22. #122
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    Ah makes sense now with the RR As to Norway riding, yeah we used to have a guy post here going by Biking Viking, looked pretty sweet from his vids, but he hasn't posted in a long while.Nice pics in that thread, not sure why TROND hasn't posted them here yet

    Quote Originally Posted by theDuke
    Thanks for the comments! The wheels were just borrowed from my Air9 to do some riding while waiting for the more beefy ones to get done. Now they're here, and will be paired with more juicy tires.

    As for mountainbiking here in Norway, check out this stuff to see what it's all about
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  23. #123
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    New RIP stem

    I assume that the new RIP uses a standard stem, but wanted to double check before I got one. I know the headset is different. Thanks.

  24. #124
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    Yes, standard stem.
    All problems in mountain biking can be solved by going faster, except the ones that are caused by going too fast.

  25. #125
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    My Rip 9 2009

    I just want to post my 2009 Rip 9, got it 2 weeks ago.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    ________________________
    '09 Niner Rip 9

  26. #126
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    Riser Bars

    I have noticed that a lot of the setups here for the RIP9's don't use the Niner flat handle bar, but they highly recommend it. I am about to setup my newly acquired frame and I just want to know what gives?

  27. #127
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    Depends on your riding style - do you like drop from saddle to bars, or do you like your bars almost even with your saddle or above it? This will determin what type bar you use, well that and if you use high ride stems. Personally I use a Thomson 0 degree stem with 5mm spacers under it and a Niner FlatTop bar on my RIP9 - I have about 1.5-2" drop saddle to bars, more XC setup I guess you could say.

    Quote Originally Posted by cowpatchman6
    I have noticed that a lot of the setups here for the RIP9's don't use the Niner flat handle bar, but they highly recommend it. I am about to setup my newly acquired frame and I just want to know what gives?
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  28. #128
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    I've posted elsewhere, so may as well put it here

    '09 RIP9 Anodized Milk Dud (Frame was 7 lbs, 8 oz.)
    '10 Fox F-29 Tapered 120mm (Uncut 3 lbs. 14 oz)
    Mavic C-29's (hold-over from my SS HT) (not up to the task of my new overly aggressive style
    Rampages Front tubeless rr. tubed (LOVE them, keep thinking I want lighter, but don't want to give up the ride)
    1x9 Drivetrain: Stylo 1.1, XT cass., X-9 shifter and rr. der.
    Monkeylite bar
    Thomson stem and seatpost
    Spec. body geo saddle (never been a S fan, but this saddle is the stuff, way better than my Pure team)
    Oury lock-ons
    Time ROC carbons
    Formula K-18s (great brakes, no Avid "turkey gobble")
    Salsa bits

    Total: 29 lbs 3 oz.

    Soon to be a 2x9 set-up (SLX der. X-9 shifter)
    may add a gravity dropper, but we'll see





    Thoughts: Much more plush than my TNT Sultan with same bits (except a WB 110). The bike begs to be ridden hard and aggressive, which has shown some shortcomings of the Mavics. I love the bike, but do wish I could get it in the 27 and change range. Adding more drivetrain isn't gonna help that. For me and the trails I ride, this is a great ride. Love the suspension. Very Maestro like.
    "No good deed goes unpunished"

  29. #129
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    I swear Coach, they're gona send the Niner police after you soon if you don't stop with that sorta talk LMAO gave me a great idea for a paint and sticker job for my older style RIP9
    Quote Originally Posted by Coach417
    ...............................Thoughts: Much more plush than my TNT Sultan with same bits (except a WB 110). The bike begs to be ridden hard and aggressive, which has shown some shortcomings of the Mavics. I love the bike, but do wish I could get it in the 27 and change range. Adding more drivetrain isn't gonna help that. For me and the trails I ride, this is a great ride. Love the suspension. Very Maestro like.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    I swear Coach, they're gona send the Niner police after you soon if you don't stop with that sorta talk LMAO
    They gotta catch me first!


    ...and prove me wrong
    "No good deed goes unpunished"

  31. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by cowpatchman6
    I have noticed that a lot of the setups here for the RIP9's don't use the Niner flat handle bar, but they highly recommend it. I am about to setup my newly acquired frame and I just want to know what gives?
    I use a riser because I herniated a disc a while back and the more-upright position allows me to ride all day and then some. I'd like to try the Niner bar but I'm a big believer in sticking with what works when you've found it (and I try to get the same riding position on all my bikes, so experimenting with one would throw me off on the others!).
    All problems in mountain biking can be solved by going faster, except the ones that are caused by going too fast.

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    Depends on your riding style - do you like drop from saddle to bars, or do you like your bars almost even with your saddle or above it? This will determin what type bar you use, well that and if you use high ride stems. Personally I use a Thomson 0 degree stem with 5mm spacers under it and a Niner FlatTop bar on my RIP9 - I have about 1.5-2" drop saddle to bars, more XC setup I guess you could say.
    Hi Lynx! Thanks! Well, I want to set it up as an all mountain machine. The trails I go to is in a pine forest with lots of roots and rocks. Fast downhill sections peppered with 1 to 2 feet ruts and I should say mini drops. Nevertheless, I want kinda want my bars a bit higher than my saddle, to get the feel of not tipping over on steep descents, I'm opting also to have a bit of a shorter stem. I know it's hard visualize this but all in all I just want my RIP9 to be burly and tough. I'm 6ft and 180lbs, and this is my first time to ride a full suspension bike, much more my first time on a 29er. By the way, I'm coming from a hardtail, taught me a lot in those trails so I figured, 'bout time to give me a treat..so here I am trying to set up an all mountain rig....

  33. #133
    Carbon & Ti rule
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    OK Lynx I will play your game.

    Lets here it If you were building a New 09 Rip9 for me how would you build it ?

    Im 6 foot 177lb been riding for 5 years I quite fast & brave but not elite, I don't like hills but am ok with them. I like fast flowing down hills & tite tech stuff to.

    It needs to be good for just about every thing from 12 hour relay races,5 hour rides with mates in the forest to being parked out side Fo's house so I can jump out the window & ride like hell down the side streets & through parks.

    I have $5000.00 US to spend & I all ready own & ride a Jet 9 & will not be robing any parts off it.

    I want colour,size & spec right down to grips & pedals (note I would go for tang so Fo's neighbours can see it )

    Remember that every body will be picking on the build & maybe even me.

    Give it your best shot.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  34. #134
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    I'll play

    Large 09 RIP9 (Black, just looks the dog's tits)
    Fox fork with the thru axle unless you absolutely have to have it in black (I did) in which case the OEM QR fork.
    FSA headset
    Stans flows laced to Hope Hubs, or the new American Classic AM 29er wheelset (me likee)
    X9 or X0 rd & shifters
    XT fd
    XT crankset with 22, 36 + bashring of choice (eg e13 turbocharger)
    WTB Pure saddle
    Joplin R seatpost
    Formula K24 brakes
    Raceface 100mm stem
    Strong, wide riser bar(I use Dangerboy and Raceface, like 'em both)
    Oury lockons
    M560 clipless pedals

    It's pretty much my build apart from the wheels which will be my next upgrade
    All problems in mountain biking can be solved by going faster, except the ones that are caused by going too fast.

  35. #135
    Carbon & Ti rule
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    Great RIP BUILD

    Hi your bike looks great.

    With my bike I like it to look great but would choose what works best over what looks good any day of the week,Thanks for your imput.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  36. #136
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    OK Lynx I will play your game.

    OK Lynx I will play your game.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Lets here it If you were building a New 09 Rip9 for me how would you build it ?

    Im 6 foot 177lb been riding for 5 years I quite fast & brave but not elite, I don't like hills but am ok with them. I like fast flowing down hills & tite tech stuff to.

    It needs to be good for just about every thing from 12 hour relay races,5 hour rides with mates in the forest to being parked out side Fo's house so I can jump out the window & ride like hell down the side streets & through parks.

    I have $5000.00 US to spend & I all ready own & ride a Jet 9 & will not be robing any parts off it.

    I want colour,size & spec right down to grips & Crank length, pedals (note I would go for tang so Fo's neighbours can see it )

    Remember that every body will be picking on the build & maybe even me.

    Give it your best shot.
    __________________
    My toys Niner Jet9 09 Rip9 coming soon


    My sons thoughts so far

    Build:
    Large Tang Rip9 with 12mm Maxle axle rear.

    Shimano XTR 180mm cranks 09.
    Gravity Dropper 4 Inch Multi seat post
    FSA OS99 stem 100mm
    FSA K force XC carbon Raiser bar 640mm wide
    Sram XO triggers
    Avid Elixir CR 203 F& 185R brakes
    Sram matchmaker
    Sram 990 cassette 11-34
    Sram XO rear mech
    Shimano XTR front mech
    KMC chain ( Gold Ano )
    OTA Alloy cables ( Gold Ano )

    Wheels (Gold Hope 2 hubs, Siliver spokes) laced to Stan's Arch hoops with Maxxis cross+mark 2.1 tyres setup tubeless with yellow tape and valve

    2nd set of wheels (Gold Hope 2 hubs, Siliver spokes) laced to Stan's Flow hoops with
    Maxxis Igniter tires setup tubeless with yellow tape and valve
    Saddle -SLR XC Kevlar
    Xpedo Ti/Ti pedals
    Fork 2010 Fox F29 RLC 120mm with 15mm T/A

    29 lb Approx
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  37. #137
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    Hola, sorry, someone deemed I had "flamed" someone and put me on a time out

    Anyway if you want the bars about level with the saddle I'd say go with a nice low rise bar on a 0 or 6 degree stem. Definitely a Large for size and depending on budget I'd go with a dual Xt crank and drivetrain or X9 if you're a SRAM fan - solid and dependable without breaking the bank. Wheels wise I love my HOPE Pro2s laced to STANS Flows. If the RS tapered steerer forks are available I'd go that route with the Maxle Lite over the 15m Fox - not sure if they are supposed to offer it in U-Turn, but if so get that to help getting the bars down for climbing.

    Quote Originally Posted by cowpatchman6
    Hi Lynx! Thanks! Well, I want to set it up as an all mountain machine. The trails I go to is in a pine forest with lots of roots and rocks. Fast downhill sections peppered with 1 to 2 feet ruts and I should say mini drops. Nevertheless, I want kinda want my bars a bit higher than my saddle, to get the feel of not tipping over on steep descents, I'm opting also to have a bit of a shorter stem. I know it's hard visualize this but all in all I just want my RIP9 to be burly and tough. I'm 6ft and 180lbs, and this is my first time to ride a full suspension bike, much more my first time on a 29er. By the way, I'm coming from a hardtail, taught me a lot in those trails so I figured, 'bout time to give me a treat..so here I am trying to set up an all mountain rig....
    Last edited by LyNx; 07-06-2009 at 04:35 AM.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  38. #138
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    Well besides the RD, I'd say that's a real nice build your Son suggested - especially the 12mm maxle
    Sorry, I'm not the sort of person who has a $5k budget, but even if I did I wouldn't go with an XO/XTR RD for the simple fact that they get trashed so easily and readily, X9 is fine and shifts just as good and you can have 3 for the price of the XO with a minimal weight gain of about <50g I think, which could easily be gotten back by going with an XT cassette over the PG990.

    Agree with the wheelsets also, nice choice - the Arches will work fine with some racier tyres for those races you want to do and the Flows will work the rest of the time. If you have the coin to throw around maybe consider going for one set being i9, Hadley or CK hubs as I think you'd loose a bit of weight and gain more POE. On the Flows wheelset, consider changing the front tyre to an Ardent - could not believe how fast they roll and the grip they offer compared to the Ignitor. Definitely a heavier tyre, but way more grip. One last thing wheel wise, consider going the SS hub route and using only 6/7 gears off a 9spd cassette to build a dishless wheel - very happy with this etup, as are a whol eload of other people here on MTBR.

    Think you're going overkill with the rotors unless you have constant 10 mile DHs, which in that case then maybe I never have had a problem running 180/160 on my RIP9 and I weigh between 180-195lbs geared to ride.

    And I know I'll eat **** for this and can't believe I'm gona say this BUT......consider the SpecialED drop post over the GD, someone I know has one and said it's has better construction than the Maverick he had.

    Ooooooops, almost forgot the grips For me, I just won't ride anything but Ergon's If it's for a race endurance etc, then the GX2's with stubby bar ends would be my choice so you have some extra hand positions/options, if strcitly tech/trail riding the GX1s.

    Oh and as for Cranks, the XTR are nice, but ring wise either consider a 22/36 double or 22/30/40 compact tripple if you're doing a lot of endurance stuff where you might need a higher top end.

    As to your stem and bars, I'm not a carbon fan so wouldn't go there would stick with a Thomson stem and some decent wider alu bars - I use the Niner Flattops, but they're not light AFAIK, but have nice sweep.

    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic
    OK Lynx I will play your game.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Lets here it If you were building a New 09 Rip9 for me how would you build it ?

    Im 6 foot 177lb been riding for 5 years I quite fast & brave but not elite, I don't like hills but am ok with them. I like fast flowing down hills & tite tech stuff to.

    It needs to be good for just about every thing from 12 hour relay races,5 hour rides with mates in the forest to being parked out side Fo's house so I can jump out the window & ride like hell down the side streets & through parks.

    I have $5000.00 US to spend & I all ready own & ride a Jet 9 & will not be robing any parts off it.

    I want colour,size & spec right down to grips & Crank length, pedals (note I would go for tang so Fo's neighbours can see it )

    Remember that every body will be picking on the build & maybe even me.

    Give it your best shot.
    __________________
    My toys Niner Jet9 09 Rip9 coming soon


    My sons thoughts so far

    Build:
    Large Tang Rip9 with 12mm Maxle axle rear.

    Shimano XTR 180mm cranks 09.
    Gravity Dropper 4 Inch Multi seat post
    FSA OS99 stem 100mm
    FSA K force XC carbon Raiser bar 640mm wide
    Sram XO triggers
    Avid Elixir CR 203 F& 185R brakes
    Sram matchmaker
    Sram 990 cassette 11-34
    Sram XO rear mech
    Shimano XTR front mech
    KMC chain ( Gold Ano )
    OTA Alloy cables ( Gold Ano )

    Wheels (Gold Hope 2 hubs, Siliver spokes) laced to Stan's Arch hoops with Maxxis cross+mark 2.1 tyres setup tubeless with yellow tape and valve

    2nd set of wheels (Gold Hope 2 hubs, Siliver spokes) laced to Stan's Flow hoops with
    Maxxis Igniter tires setup tubeless with yellow tape and valve
    Saddle -SLR XC Kevlar
    Xpedo Ti/Ti pedals
    Fork 2010 Fox F29 RLC 120mm with 15mm T/A


    29 lb Approx
    Last edited by LyNx; 07-06-2009 at 04:41 AM.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  39. #139
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    I wasn't going to do it but I found a good deal on ebay and couldn't resist upgrading to an 09. I'm only two rides in but am very pleased with my Large Raw 09. I noticed a difference right away in the alley behind my house. At low speed making a tight u-turn the stiffer frame is more predictable. Push down on the pedal a little while dragging the front brake move a little, no wind up like there was on the 07.

    Then on my first real ride it really felt like a different bike from the 07. Jumping is better for sure, skiming over rocks is more stable and pumping transitions is more stable too. Riding thru loose big rocks wasn't quite as plush as I expected. Oh yeah, the new Fox still has the small can. I went to try my old shock with high volume can but it doesn't fit, the old air valve location hits the new link. I switched the big can to the new shock and will try it this week.

    I wasn't sure if my Maverick fork would look funny with the tapper head tube but I think it actually looks good although the finish doesn't match like before. I'm also not sure if I like the steeper head angle to accommodate longer forks since mine hasn't changed.
    Before I bought the frame I figured in the back of my mind that if I didn't like it I could use the 7mm taller king headset race. Doh, I forgot about the integrated headset. When there is an adjustable 120-140mm, thru axle, 36mm leg, tapered steerer fork I'll upgrade.

    I'm not a fan of the new downtube cable routing, my 07 Large top tube routing was great.

    All in all it is definitely worth the upgrade for the increased frame stiffness. I also have a Nomad for Porc Rim like rides that I've though about selling to buy a Lunchbox. Now I'm really not sure I need either.

    I'm really wondering how the 2011 Rip 9 is going to evolve into a better bike? I don't see much room for improvement.

    -Riders dimensions: ~170lbs, 6', ~35" inseam (Super happy with the fit)
    -Frame: 09 Large Raw, RP23 with High Volume can, 145psi
    -Fork: Maverick Duc 32, 85 psi w/ lots of oil in the air spring, with 90mm stem (70mm too)
    -Crankset: Shimano XT M760 20/30/Bash (stiff but wide q factor is annoying)
    -Front Deraileur: Shimano XT 771
    -Rear Deraileur: Sram XO
    -Shifters: Sram XO Twist, ESL grips
    -Pedals: Time XS
    -Brakes: Avid Elixir CR, 180f, 160r (excellent feel, some noise)
    -Front Wheel, Maverick Hub, WTB Speeddisk rim, Rampage Tubeless, Mikesee built
    -Rear Wheel, DT 240S, 9mm thru axle, Stans Flow Rim, Ardent tubeless, Mikesee built
    -Seatpost: Gravity Dropper (essential but imperfect)
    -Saddle: Selle SLR-XC
    -Handlebar: Fsa K force Carbon DH, 25.4mm x 28"
    -Weight: 30.2lbs (the new frame is a little heavier but I couldn't care less)

    First pic is the 07, second it the new 09
    Attached Images Attached Images
    2 wheels

  40. #140
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    Oh yeah, I'm getting a lot of chain noise from the front derailleur cage while descending. It has to be pretty high to not hit the chainstay at full compression. Does anyone have a solution for this? I'm thinking about wrapping some inner tube around the cage to quiet it down.
    2 wheels

  41. #141
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    Were the 2011 Rip 9 is going to evolve

    Were the 2011 Rip 9 is going to evolve.
    Well my thoughts.

    Well these Niner guys are smart so i'm thinking things like a cam top headset bearing so you can change the head angle while riding along to take on the big down hills & get through the twisty stuff.

    Things like the Bio-Centric’s bottom bracket so you can lift & lower the BB hight while riding/or maybe just stright sag or ride hight adjust on the go.

    At some stage someone will push for making a frame & fork that only takes bigger rotors so hubs can be made disc flanges so the disc is an outer ring only letting the spoke spacing over lap were the disc would normally go & aim for like a 1 inch wider spoke spacing at the hub this would under cut the cassette to. ( Why not Niner )

    The way I see Niner thinking is they start with a clean sheet of paper & ask what do we want ? not who elses rules do we have to play by.

    This is how I see there thinking,Just because nobody has done it before doesn't mean it cant be done.

    Come on every body rip me to bits.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic


    My sons thoughts so far

    Build:
    Large Tang Rip9 with 12mm Maxle axle rear.
    Fork 2010 Fox F29 RLC 120mm with 15mm T/A

    29 lb Approx
    Here's kinda what that will look like:

    RIP9. 12mm MAXLE. FOX F120 RL. Tang...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Front Range Forum Moderator

  43. #143
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    Nice build! Love the hubs! One thing I noticed though, the headtube junction, where the top and the bottom tube intersect, there's a gap. The other rip9's i've seen and what I have right now are welded together...is this a pre production model?

  44. #144
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    09 Rip9

    Hi you will find it is just because it is an XL size & you would have seen small & med.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  45. #145
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    My Niner

    I built this bike up for trail/all mountain riding in Southern Cal, Mammoth area and the southern Sierras.

    I'm 5'10", 190 with full pack and gear.

    Bike set-up
    09 3/4 Raw medium RIP 9
    2010Fox Tapered 120MM RL 32 15QR
    Easton monkey light carbon bars
    Thomson seat post
    Thomson 100mm 0 degree rise stem
    XT cranks
    XT front der
    XT shadow rear der
    Avid Elixr R brakes
    KMC chain
    Panaracer 2.35 Rampage tires
    WTB laser disc light hubs laced to Stans ZTR flow rims
    Specialized Phenom saddle.

    Weight............29.84

  46. #146
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    New question here.

    Fantastic, is that the new "Chameleon" camo colour then?

    Quote Originally Posted by winerdiner29er
    I built this bike up for trail/all mountain riding in Southern Cal, Mammoth area and the southern Sierras.

    I'm 5'10", 190 with full pack and gear.

    Bike set-up
    09 3/4 Raw medium RIP 9
    2010Fox Tapered 120MM RL 32 15QR
    Easton monkey light carbon bars
    Thomson seat post
    Thomson 100mm 0 degree rise stem
    XT cranks
    XT front der
    XT shadow rear der
    Avid Elixr R brakes
    KMC chain
    Panaracer 2.35 Rampage tires
    WTB laser disc light hubs laced to Stans ZTR flow rims
    Specialized Phenom saddle.

    Weight............29.84
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  47. #147
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    Tang 09 Rip9

    Build:
    Large Tang Rip9

    Shimano XTR 180mm cranks
    Gravity Dropper 4 Inch Multi seat post
    FSA OS99 stem
    FSA K force XC carbon Raiser bar
    Sram XO triggers
    Avid Elixir CR 203 F& 185R brakes
    Sram matchmaker
    Sram 990 cassette 11-34
    Sram XO rear mech
    Shimano XTR front mech
    KMC chain ( Gold Ano )
    OTA Alloy cables ( Gold Ano )
    Wheels (Gold Hope 2 hubs, Silver spokes) laced to Stan's Arch hoops with Maxxis cross+mark 2.1 tyres setup tubeless with yellow tape and valve
    2nd set of wheels (Gold Hope 2 hubs, Silver spokes) laced to Stan's Flow hoops with
    Maxxis Igniter tires setup tubeless with yellow tape and valve
    Saddle -SLR XC Kevlar
    Xpedo Ti/Ti pedals
    Fork 2010 Fox F29 RL 120mm with 15mm T/A ( for those that want to know this fork works much better than the QR fork I had on it ) It just holds line much better through the rough allot of money but well worth it. ( Don't listen to the people that say it is not much better than the STD QR ) Too many people have to much to say about some thing they have not tryed.

    29 lb

    Well I just got back from a ride that I have been riding my Jet9 at least once a week for the last 4 months.

    So here goes,The Rip is a very good solid riding bike & is speced very much the same as my Jet9.

    My thoughts: The Rip9 will out climb the Jet9,You can't feel any differance in weight between the 2 bikes on the trail but with the Rip9 the bottom bracket is so solid that you can feel all the power going to the rear wheel & not being soaked up with bottom bracket flex.The exta travel didn't seem to soak up any more power than on the Jet9.

    As for the handling between the 2 bikes the Rip9 is solid & does every thing right.
    My Jet9 has been set up with a 100mm fork ( 15mm TA ) so has a slacker head angle than the Rip9 with the 120mm fork (approx half a deg ) so turn in much the same,How much better did it handle than the Jet9?

    Well a bit but I would say that the there was a bigger differance changing the Jet9 from 100mm Manitou QR fork & cheap DT Swiss wheels to a Fox F29 RLC Fit 100mm with 15mm TA & Stans Flow rims with Hope Pro 2 hubs & DT Swiss spokes than the differance between the up graded Jet9 & The 09 Rip9.

    I will add more info when I have time but will answer any questions.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by muzzanic; 08-11-2009 at 03:34 AM.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  48. #148
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    Licorice 09 RIP9

    Pics before and after first ride.

    Medium 09 RIP9
    WB Fluid 135 (set at 125mm)
    Stans Flow laced to CK Hubs
    FSA headset
    Thomson 70mm stem
    Easton EA70 bars
    Magura Louise BAT
    X9 shifters
    XO rear der.
    XT front der.
    SLX crankset w/ e13 turbocharger
    WTB Pure saddle
    Thomson seatpost
    Oury Rogue lock-ons
    Maxxis Ardent rear/WTB Weirwolf LT front
    Attached Images Attached Images

  49. #149
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    Folks, I just want to know if there are other headseat options to choose from aside from the FSA OEM headset that came with the frame I got, I was thinking a CK, but it seems they don't have anything for the RIP 9. My fork is the OEM Fox RL Tapered. What would you recommend if there is such? Thanks!

  50. #150
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    Folks, I just want to know if there are other headseat options to choose from aside from the FSA OEM headset that came with the frame I got, I was thinking a CK, but it seems they don't have anything for the RIP 9. My fork is the OEM Fox RL Tapered. What would you recommend if there is such? Thanks!
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...00204#poststop

    i'm looking for one too in red to match the red pivot bits

  51. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by cowpatchman6
    Folks, I just want to know if there are other headseat options to choose from aside from the FSA OEM headset that came with the frame I got, I was thinking a CK, but it seems they don't have anything for the RIP 9. My fork is the OEM Fox RL Tapered. What would you recommend if there is such? Thanks!

    Our integrated headset is the 1.5" x 1.125" standard FSA and CANE CREEK have come up with. For FSA, there are only a couple of different options, and basically have to do with the top cap material (there is a carbon top cap
    version). For Cane Creek, they have a few different models, most notably
    the Frustrum Integrated.



    Chris
    Niner Bikes

  52. #152
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    An awesome season it has been so far indeed, thanks to an absolutely fantastic bike! Niner Bikes - I salute you from the bottom of my shorts for giving me the opportunity to ride such a killer bike! THANK YOU!!

  53. #153
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    If you had to go with one fork for the 2009 niner R.I.P 9 what would it be? I am more a XC rider and want something that climbs really well. I am 5'7 and a half so I am not sure if I should go small or medium? I have shorter legs and a larger torso.

    Thanks In Advance!

  54. #154
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    will the new CK inset fit? the do plan to make a tapered version.

  55. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by raekism
    If you had to go with one fork for the 2009 niner R.I.P 9 what would it be? I am more a XC rider and want something that climbs really well. I am 5'7 and a half so I am not sure if I should go small or medium? I have shorter legs and a larger torso.

    Thanks In Advance!
    I am 5'10.5" and ride a Medium, and it seems like quite a big bike. I would go for the small. Way better to have a frame sized slightly small than slightly big.

    I rode the 07 RIP9 with a Reba @ 100mm and the 09 RIP9 with the OEM Fox 120mm. Both of these give a HA of about 68 deg and that feels right to me for XC riding. The Fox stiffens up nicely if that's what you want and it is waaay more rigid than the Reba, which makes a lot of difference in high speed corners.

    Basically the guys know what they are doing and the factory options are really good.
    All problems in mountain biking can be solved by going faster, except the ones that are caused by going too fast.

  56. #156
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    PS The 07 + 100mm climbed differently than the 09 + 120mm. I get more front wheel lift with the new setup but the tradeoff is much better handling of gnar climbs, in terms of rear wheel tracking mostly. I think you could finesse the front wheel lift with stem and riser bar choices, but in an odd way it works for me as it lets me hoist the front over/around uphill obstacles more easily.

    There is a moment when you point the new RIP9 downhill and the question really becomes irrelevant because it lights up like a xmas tree. I can only imagine how fun the WFO is.
    All problems in mountain biking can be solved by going faster, except the ones that are caused by going too fast.

  57. #157
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    Go the Fox

    I'm very happy with the Fox to.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  58. #158
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    R.I.P. - Czech republic / Prague

    -Main purpose (XC, AM, etc): AM
    -Trail location/terrain: Across Czech Rep to Lago Di Garda
    -Frame Year/Size/Color: 09/X-Large/Black
    -Rider Weight: 94kg
    -Rider Height: 191cm
    -Stem: Race Face Evolve
    -Seatpost: Race Face Evolve
    -Saddle: WTB Silverado Pro
    -Handlebar: Niner flat top bar
    -Headset: Chris King
    -Rear Shock: Stock RP23
    -Fork: Stock Fox 29 RL
    -Brake Setup: Avid Elixir R - 180mm rotor front, 160mm rotor rear
    -Drivetrain Setup: 2009 XT/SLX
    -Cranck: Stylo EDIT: Change them to SLX, from Stylos the chain was falling in between frame and crank, now its fine
    -Grips: Ergon GE1 white
    -Tires: Continental Mountain King 2.2" (also bought same ones in 2.4") EDIT: I change them to Racing Ralphs 2.25 and iam happy now.
    -Wheels: American Classic 29 Alphatype
    -Build Weight: 13,5kg
    -Other 29er bikes owned: None (previous bike Specialized Enduro, Scott Nitrous SL)
    -Mileage on RIP9: 400km over the last week

    -Comments, etc: Pretty nice. Fast rolling, climbing, enough good in descent
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by prague77; 09-22-2009 at 11:55 AM.

  59. #159
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    My replacement for a broken Jet. Decided to build it. Looks pretty nice I think.



  60. #160
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    Nice bike

    Quote Originally Posted by tigerwah
    My replacement for a broken Jet. Decided to build it. Looks pretty nice I think.


    Yep that looks good what do you think of the way it rides ?
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  61. #161
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    Yep that looks good what do you think of the way it rides ?
    Rides very good. Surprisingly different than the Jet. Climbs quite well for a 29lb bike and descends even better. A perfect trail bike.

  62. #162
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    Rip 9 Raw

    My new RIP 9
    Attached Images Attached Images

  63. #163
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    My Jet replacement

    Attached Images Attached Images

  64. #164
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    My new Rip 9

    Picked the bike up late Saturday afternoon. Took it over to some local trails Sunday morning with some friends for it's maiden voyage and boy this bikes rocks! Super stiff and just corners like it is on rails! Rolls over the trail chatter unlike my old 26er Heckler.

    My new Rip 9


    Build spec:

    Product Type Description Quantity
    Frame Niner R.I.P. 9 Raw XL 22.00 25.25 Disc 1
    Fork Fox OEM F29 120 RL | Black | 15mm 120-120mm w/ tapered steerer tube 1-1/2 to 1-1/8 1
    Brake Avid Elixir CR | Black | 185.00 1
    Brake Avid Elixir CR | Black | 160.00 1
    Shifter SRAM X.O. Trigger Red Ano finish 1
    Cable SRAM Stainless | 1
    Housing SRAM Housing | Black 1
    Crank Shimano XT Aluminum 175.00 22-32-44 1
    BottomBracket Chris King Bottom Bracket | Aluminum | Red 1
    FrontDerailleur Shimano XT-M771 Bottom Swing 1
    Cassette Shimano XT M770 | Steel | 11-34 1
    RearDerailleur SRAM X.9 | Silver | L 1
    RearDerailleur RIP 9 Maxle drop outs 12 x 135 1
    Chain SRAM PC-971 1
    FrontHub Hadley 15 x 100mm Red 32H 1
    RearHub Hadley DH 135 x 12mm Red 32h 1 72 point engagement
    Rim Stans NoTUBES ZTR Flow 29er | Black | 32 | UST 1
    Rim Stans NoTUBES ZTR Flow 29er | Black | 32 | UST 1
    Spoke DT Swiss Competition 14/15g | Silver | 32
    Spoke DT Swiss Competition 14/15g | Silver | 32
    Nipple DT Swiss Alloy | Red 64
    Tire Maxxis Ardent 29" x 2.25 MP60 2
    Tube Butyl Presta 1.90-2.70 | 48.00mm 1
    Tube Butyl Presta 1.90-2.70 | 48.00mm 1
    Headset Niner OEM INT for RIP 9 | Black 1
    Stem Thomson Elite X4 | Black | 90.00 | 0.00 1
    Handlebar Easton EA70 Monkeybar | Black | Aluminum | Low Rise 1
    Grip Ergon GA 1 -Large STD Black 1
    Seatpost Crank Brothers Joplin w/Remote Black/red 382mm Setback 1
    Saddle WTB Pure V Race | Black 1

    Upgrades: Added a skidplate for the lower linkage. Will go tubeless on the tires. May try a 110mm x 10 degree rise X4 stem to see how that feels.

    Weight as is: 30.64 lbs.

    pics here.

    http://picasaweb.google.com/theresaglav ... 2572765170

  65. #165
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    You guys running the tripples, are they working out for you? Was surprised to see so many in here when there's a couple threads dedicated to the Chainsuck issue in relation to using a tripple ring crank with a ring larger than 40t. Really interested in this frame, so just trying to figure out what exactly is going on with it, if maybe it's a QC issue and some people are fine while others aren't Personally wouldn't have an issue if I couldn't run a ring bigger than 40t anyway as I'd be using the bike for purely AM and that's way more gear than you need for that.

  66. #166
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    Your link to picasa seems to be broken

  67. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacks_Back
    You guys running the tripples, are they working out for you? Was surprised to see so many in here when there's a couple threads dedicated to the Chainsuck issue in relation to using a tripple ring crank with a ring larger than 40t. Really interested in this frame, so just trying to figure out what exactly is going on with it, if maybe it's a QC issue and some people are fine while others aren't Personally wouldn't have an issue if I couldn't run a ring bigger than 40t anyway as I'd be using the bike for purely AM and that's way more gear than you need for that.

    Iam running triple.
    i had problems when i used Stylo crankset, after replace it to Shimano SLX, everything is ok.

  68. #168
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    See if this works. If not I will post up individual photos

    http://picasaweb.google.com/theresag...30812572765170

  69. #169
    Carbon & Ti rule
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    Hi just run a 40 tooth outer ring & on most cranks it works well,Don't let it put you off this frame is worth it,It is because the rear triange is made to take large tyres.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  70. #170
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    out of all your picasa pics I think, this one is the best




  71. #171
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    Pics of my nw Rip 9

    Quote Originally Posted by ellen_muenchen
    out of all your picasa pics I think, this one is the best



    I think so too. I was pulling out of the driveway to got take it on it's maiden voyage/shakedown ride. I have to say the bike rode fantastically! It exceeded my expectations for sure.

  72. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave.
    Niner RIP9 Setup Thread

    RIP9 owners, here's your chance to share your setup and help other riders that are researching sizing and spec'ing of RIP9s. This thread should be used for others to browse frame size, rider height/inseam/weight, riding terrain, and stem/seatpost/bar setups most of all. If you're looking for detailed discussion of travel issues, etc you may want to check the RIP 9 Fine Tuning and Development Thread.
    Frame size: XL
    Rider height: 192cm
    Inseam: 91cm
    Weight: 81kg
    Riding Terrain: Midwest trails which includes logs, roots, ruts, creek crossings with rocks, but nothing too gnarly
    Fork: Fox OEM 120mm with FIT
    Stem: Ritchey 100mm 5 degree flip-flop
    Seatpost: Thomson Masterpiece
    Bar: Syntace flat bar with a 12 degree sweep
    Crankset: XT 22/32/38 (altered to 38T due to chain stick issues between 44T and yoke)
    Tires: IRD Fire XC Pros
    Rims: Velocity Blunts
    Hubs: Chris King ISO Disc (front converted from 9mm to 15mm TA with the King kit)
    Spokes: Sapim CX-Ray

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/4093747667/" title="RIPit by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2535/4093747667_4e02bbf201_b.jpg" width="1024" height="767" alt="RIPit" /></a>

  73. #173
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    -Main purpose (XC, AM, etc): AM
    -Trail location/terrain: ABQ NM, rocks and high desert features
    -Frame Year/Size/Color: 09/Large/Milk Dud Ano
    -Rider Weight: 180 lbs
    -Rider Height/Inseam: 6’/34.5"
    -Stem (length/rise): Thomson 50mm, 0 rise
    -Seatpost: Syncros
    -Handlebar: Syncros Bulk (27.25" wide)
    -Fork: Fox F29 RLC 120mm w/ QR15
    -Brake Setup: Avid Elixir CR 185 front, 160 rear
    -Drivetrain Setup: 2x9 w/ XT front derailleur and shifter, XO rear derailleur and shifter. Hope Stainless Bottom Bracket w/ polished XT cranks (waiting for adapter to run Truvativ Noirs)
    -Tires: Continental Mountain King 2.4 front, Panancer Rampage 2.35 rear (both tubeless)
    -Wheels: Hope Pro II laced to Stan’s Flows
    -Build Weight: 28.8lbs (according to bathroom scale)

    -Other 29er bikes owned: Redline Monocog, Niner Jet9
    -Mileage on RIP9: Maiden voyage was earlier tonight, so maybe 8?
    -Future Changes: Thomson seatpost, wider bars…



    Last edited by Calhoun; 12-07-2009 at 10:11 PM.

  74. #174
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    External or Internal BB

    So I've recently started to purchase components for my new RIP 9 frame and have enjoyed pouring over this forum for ideas. One area I don't have any experience with is whether or not an external BB will affect the chainline if I set up the bike as a 1x9 using this widgit chainring.

    Do externals and internals pretty much have the same length? Though I haven't seen one in person I imagine they are pretty close.

    And do I have to get cranks that will specifically fit the external BB? I'm looking at getting these middleburns (RS-8) but they offer them only in square tapered or ISIS. Do they have to specifically say they are compatible with external BBs in order for them to work?

    All of this research is fun but also exhausting as I'm anxious to get my bike built so I can enjoy riding it.

  75. #175
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    External or Internal BB

    So I've recently started to purchase components for my new RIP 9 frame and have enjoyed pouring over this forum for ideas. One area I don't have any experience with is whether or not an external BB will affect the chainline if I set up the bike as a 1x9 using this widgit chainring.

    Do externals and internals pretty much have the same length? Though I haven't seen one in person I imagine they are pretty close.

    And do I have to get cranks that will specifically fit the external BB? I'm looking at getting these middleburns (RS-8) but they offer them only in square tapered or ISIS. Do they have to specifically say they are compatible with external BBs in order for them to work?

    And what about ceramic bearings vs. stainless? Is there much of a difference?

    All of this research is fun but also exhausting as I'm anxious to get my bike built so I can enjoy riding it.

  76. #176
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    Seriously dude, with all possible respect..............You shouldn't be specing out the build for your bike if you do not understand this! Straight up fact, if you don't understand this, then what other things don't you understand properly about other parts for the bike Go to your local shop and let them help you order/choose the parts.

    Quote Originally Posted by cinemachine
    So I've recently started to purchase components for my new RIP 9 frame and have enjoyed pouring over this forum for ideas. One area I don't have any experience with is whether or not an external BB will affect the chainline if I set up the bike as a 1x9 using this widgit chainring.

    Do externals and internals pretty much have the same length? Though I haven't seen one in person I imagine they are pretty close.

    And do I have to get cranks that will specifically fit the external BB? I'm looking at getting these middleburns (RS-8) but they offer them only in square tapered or ISIS. Do they have to specifically say they are compatible with external BBs in order for them to work?

    All of this research is fun but also exhausting as I'm anxious to get my bike built so I can enjoy riding it.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  77. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by cinemachine
    So I've recently started to purchase components for my new RIP 9 frame and have enjoyed pouring over this forum for ideas. One area I don't have any experience with is whether or not an external BB will affect the chainline if I set up the bike as a 1x9 using this widgit chainring.

    Do externals and internals pretty much have the same length? Though I haven't seen one in person I imagine they are pretty close.

    And do I have to get cranks that will specifically fit the external BB? I'm looking at getting these middleburns (RS-8) but they offer them only in square tapered or ISIS. Do they have to specifically say they are compatible with external BBs in order for them to work?

    And what about ceramic bearings vs. stainless? Is there much of a difference?

    All of this research is fun but also exhausting as I'm anxious to get my bike built so I can enjoy riding it.
    The Widgit is designed to fit on the Shimano BCD cranksets. The BCD for the Widgit uses the inner or granny ring slot to attach and is a bridge between the granny ring and the middle ring. It doesn't matter if the Shimano crankset is an older version (Octalink with a internal BB or the newer external BB models).

    The Middleburns are for internal bottom brackets only - be it square taper or ISIS. If you are going with the Middleburns, you will need to get the correct spindle length that allows enough room for the crank arms to clear the chainstays. If it wasn't so damn cold, I could help you out by swapping around my Middleburns from my Dos Niner to my RIP to let you know what length of ISIS you would need, but I would need a 6 pack incentive. My guess is the range between 113 - 118mm would do it, but which one?

    What we know about the new RIP 9 is that it is designed for a bit wider chainline than previous bikes to take the big meat tires in the rear, but you can toss some of that out the window since running a 1 x 9 is tad different than a 3 x 9. Pushing the chainline out (using a longer spindle) a bit with a 1 x 9 that is connected to the granny (or between the granny and middle ring slot) is not going to hurt anything in terms of shifting. It will all still work dandy, but your Q-Factor (distance between crank arms) will increase a bit.

    You cannot mix and match the internal BB and external BB gear. You have to go with one or the other. What the RIP's chainline means for running an internal BB is that one has to be careful to choose a spindle length that allows clearance for the crank arms so they do not scrape or hit the chainstays on the RIP. This means a bit wider Q-Factor than one could get with a 47.5mm chainline, but it won't break the deal if you have to widen the Q-Factor a bit.

    If buying the Widgit (or an external BB crankset), spacers will be provided to adjust chainline a bit out (if needed), so no worries there.

    Since I have lots of trial and error experience with the internal BB spindles and chainline, I can say that my Race Face Taperlock 110mm spindle is too short to use on the RIP 9 with my Race Face Turbine cranks. I would have to get a longer spindle length to make those work on there. I haven't tried that yet, but it looks like a 113mm would also be a tad too short to give enough clearance for the Turbines. Keep in mind, that Race Face Turbine cranks have a very narrow Q-Factor (that's why I bought them), so pushing them out will be required more than many other crank arm brands that are not so narrow.

    So a 113mm might work fine and dandy for a Middleburn, but not the Race Face Turbines. I currently am using an older Shimano XT Hollowtech II with an Octalink BB with a spindle length of 118mm on my RIP 9. I think a 113mm would work fine since I have plenty of clearance between the arms and the chainstays right now. I have a couple in the parts bin and I will probably swap out once I get around to it to see if it works. No guarantees, but eyeballing things makes me think I'd be okay. If not, the 118mm is fine and I am used to it. [Update on 12/18/09: I swapped out to the 113mm Octalink spindle this morning, adjusted the front derailleur and all is fine and dandy.]

    In other words, depending on the brand and the bend or lack of bend in the crank arms due to their design - it is kind of trial and error to find the best spindle length that fits. Best would be to find an LBS that will let you try a few lengths before settling on which one you need to actually buy and use. Also keep in mind - and here's where it gets wierd - not everyone's 110mm or 113mm spindle length is created equal when it comes to square taper. Some cranks sit in more on the square taper than others. So that's a whole other part of the equation requiring trial and error.

    If you call the guy at Mountain Bike Tandems, he'll give you advice on which spindle length to try. Also, make sure that if you are getting the Middleburns, you get the 64/104 BCD spindle as that is what the Widgit fits on.

    BB

    Now that my RIP is broken in, it's time to think about gearing while the white stuff has snubbed out my trails for the season. Will Santa remember a Widgit and a Skid Plate for my stocking this year?

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/4194815891/" title="RiPPer by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4004/4194815891_6846a29ce7_b.jpg" width="1024" height="623" alt="RiPPer" /></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/4194804743/" title="RiPPer4 by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4010/4194804743_001a8beb09_b.jpg" width="1024" height="687" alt="RiPPer4" /></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/4195562522/" title="RiPPer3 by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2579/4195562522_b9cabeaa5b_b.jpg" width="816" height="1024" alt="RiPPer3" /></a>
    Last edited by BruceBrown; 12-18-2009 at 11:12 AM.

  78. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    The Widgit is designed to fit on the Shimano BCD cranksets. The BCD for the Widgit uses the inner or granny ring slot to attach and is a bridge between the granny ring and the middle ring. It doesn't matter if the Shimano crankset is an older version (Octalink with a internal BB or the newer external BB models).

    The Middleburns are for internal bottom brackets only - be it square taper or ISIS. If you are going with the Middleburns, you will need to get the correct spindle length that allows enough room for the crank arms to clear the chainstays. If it wasn't so damn cold, I could help you out by swapping around my Middleburns from my Dos Niner to my RIP to let you know what length of ISIS you would need, but I would need a 6 pack incentive. My guess is the range between 113 - 118mm would do it, but which one?

    What we know about the new RIP 9 is that it is designed for a bit wider chainline than previous bikes to take the big meat tires in the rear, but you can toss some of that out the window since running a 1 x 9 is tad different than a 3 x 9. Pushing the chainline out (using a longer spindle) a bit with a 1 x 9 that is connected to the granny (or between the granny and middle ring slot) is not going to hurt anything in terms of shifting. It will all still work dandy, but your Q-Factor (distance between crank arms) will increase a bit.

    You cannot mix and match the internal BB and external BB gear. You have to go with one or the other. What the RIP's chainline means for running an internal BB is that one has to be careful to choose a spindle length that allows clearance for the crank arms so they do not scrape or hit the chainstays on the RIP. This means a bit wider Q-Factor than one could get with a 47.5mm chainline, but it won't break the deal if you have to widen the Q-Factor a bit.

    If buying the Widgit (or an external BB crankset), spacers will be provided to adjust chainline a bit out (if needed), so no worries there.

    Since I have lots of trial and error experience with the internal BB spindles and chainline, I can say that my Race Face Taperlock 110mm spindle is too short to use on the RIP 9 with my Race Face Turbine cranks. I would have to get a longer spindle length to make those work on there. I haven't tried that yet, but it looks like a 113mm would also be a tad too short to give enough clearance for the Turbines. Keep in mind, that Race Face Turbine cranks have a very narrow Q-Factor (that's why I bought them), so pushing them out will be required more than many other crank arm brands that are not so narrow.

    So a 113mm might work fine and dandy for a Middleburn, but not the Race Face Turbines. I currently am using an older Shimano XT Hollowtech II with an Octalink BB with a spindle length of 118mm on my RIP 9. I think a 113mm would work fine since I have plenty of clearance between the arms and the chainstays right now. I have a couple in the parts bin and I will probably swap out once I get around to it to see if it works. No guarantees, but eyeballing things makes me think I'd be okay. If not, the 118mm is fine and I am used to it. In other words, depending on the brand and the bend or lack of bend in the crank arms due to their design - it is kind of trial and error to find the best spindle length that fits. Best would be to find an LBS that will let you try a few lengths before settling on which one you need to actually buy and use. Also keep in mind - and here's where it gets wierd - not everyone's 110mm or 113mm spindle length is created equal when it comes to square taper. Some cranks sit in more on the square taper than others. So that's a whole other part of the equation requiring trial and error.

    If you call the guy at Mountain Bike Tandems, he'll give you advice on which spindle length to try. Also, make sure that if you are getting the Middleburns, you get the 64/104 BCD spindle as that is what the Widgit fits on.

    BB
    Bruce,

    I have to say that it is pretty cool of you to take your time and try to help people out, pretty much all of the time. A lot of people come on here just to complain or have an agenda, but it's people like you that make this site worth coming to IMO. Cheers.

  79. #179
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    My 29er RIP 9... 9 Niner RIP 9 pictures for 2009... Go Niner!!!



















  80. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by neomaster888
    My 29er RIP 9... 9 Niner RIP 9 pictures for 2009... Go Niner!!!



    Consider shortening that cable housing next to the ft. der. It likes to touch and rub on the ft. der.

  81. #181
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    My RIP9 out on the trails..


  82. #182
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    ***
    Last edited by Boyonabyke; 01-08-2010 at 10:06 PM.

  83. #183
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    09 RIP (M) in raw

    -Main purpose (XC, AM, etc): AM
    -Trail location/terrain: SOCAL San Diego area
    -Frame Year/Size/Color: 09/Medium/Raw/12mm Maxle lite
    -Rider Weight: 225
    -Rider Height/Inseam: 5'10"/30"
    -Stem (length/rise): Thomson, 90mm, 0 degree. 5mm spacer underneath.
    -Seatpost: Thomson Setback
    -Handlebar: Raceface Atlas AM in Red 31"
    -Rear Shock: Stock RP23 w/ Boost Valve
    -Rear settings (psi, etc.): 180psi, 2 clicks before fastest rebound
    -Fork: 09 Reba Team Maxle Lite
    -Fork settings (psi, etc.): Can't remember.
    -Brake Setup: Formula Mega, 200mm front / 180mm rear.
    -Drivetrain Setup: 2x9, SRAM X-9 and XT, XT cranks with 22T/32T with Raceface bash and Crankskins.
    -Tires: Schwalbe Racing Ralphs 2.4 tubeless 28 PSI rear/24 PSI front
    -Wheels: Hope Pro 2 laced to Stans Flows. DT comp spokes. Tubeless with Stans tape. 20mm front/12mm rear
    -Build Weight: haven't weighed it yet

    -Other 29er bikes owned: Niner EMD 9 Single Speed
    -Mileage on RIP9: Needs more!!!!!
    -Future Changes: Cutting down bars. More aggresive tires.
    -Comments, etc: Custom bash for linkage. Gonna be lovin this thing for a long time! Super solid with 20mm and 12mm thru axles.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-dsc07067.jpg  

    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-dsc07068.jpg  


  84. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02Bullit
    -Handlebar: Raceface Atlas AM in Red 31"

    -Future Changes: Cutting down bars...
    Nice Bike!

    I added the same bar to my RIP. It is perfect at stock length, I can't imagine cutting it down.


    edit to add pic:

  85. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02Bullit
    -Main purpose (XC, AM, etc): AM
    -Trail location/terrain: SOCAL San Diego area
    -Frame Year/Size/Color: 09/Medium/Raw/12mm Maxle lite
    -Rider Weight: 225
    -Rider Height/Inseam: 5'10"/30"
    -Stem (length/rise): Thomson, 90mm, 0 degree. 5mm spacer underneath.
    -Seatpost: Thomson Setback
    -Handlebar: Raceface Atlas AM in Red 31"
    -Rear Shock: Stock RP23 w/ Boost Valve
    -Rear settings (psi, etc.): 180psi, 2 clicks before fastest rebound
    -Fork: 09 Reba Team Maxle Lite
    -Fork settings (psi, etc.): Can't remember.
    -Brake Setup: Formula Mega, 200mm front / 180mm rear.
    -Drivetrain Setup: 2x9, SRAM X-9 and XT, XT cranks with 22T/32T with Raceface bash and Crankskins
    -Tires: Schwalbe Racing Ralphs 2.4 tubeless 28 PSI rear/24 PSI front
    -Wheels: Hope Pro 2 laced to Stans Flows. DT comp spokes. Tubeless with Stans tape. 20mm front/12mm rear
    -Build Weight: haven't weighed it yet
    -Other 29er bikes owned: Niner EMD 9 Single Speed
    -Mileage on RIP9: Needs more!!!!!
    -Future Changes: Cutting down bars. More aggresive tires.
    -Comments, etc: Custom bash for linkage. Gonna be lovin this thing for a long time! Super solid with 20mm and 12mm thru axles.

    how do you like those formulas megas? nice build by the way...

  86. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by david8613
    how do you like those formulas megas? nice build by the way...
    Thanks. Love the Megas. I have the 09 versions. Tons of power and modulation. I've seen some pulsing up front at the axle when braking from slower speeds, doesn't do it at faster speeds though. I have Formulas on both bikes and don't plan on using anything else!

    Calhoun - The bars are really comfortable and stable. I also love the rise and sweep of the Raceface bars. The only reason I thought of cutting them was because a couple of times now I've had things just reach out and grab me! Not very fun when you're haulin and the bars try to turn on you all of a sudden!

  87. #187
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    Frame size: XL
    Rider height: 192cm
    Inseam: 91cm
    Weight: 81kg
    Riding Terrain: Midwest trails which includes logs, roots, ruts, creek crossings with rocks, but nothing too gnarly
    Fork: Fox OEM 120mm with FIT
    Stem: Ritchey 100mm 5 degree flip-flop
    Seatpost: Thomson Masterpiece
    Bar: Syntace flat bar with a 12 degree sweep
    Crankset: XT 22/32/38 (altered to 38T due to chain stick issues between 44T and yoke)
    Tires: IRD Fire XC Pros
    Rims: Velocity Blunts
    Hubs: Chris King ISO Disc (front converted from 9mm to 15mm TA with the King kit)
    Spokes: Sapim CX-Ray

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/4093747667/" title="RIPit by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2535/4093747667_4e02bbf201_b.jpg" width="1024" height="767" alt="RIPit" /></a>

    Bruce
    What brand outer ring are you running that has 38 teeth and does it have ramps a pins?

  88. #188
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    Can't remember what rings BB is running (if you search for his built thread it'll say) but I run the Blackspire Super Pro 38t, it's 5mm thick and strong as nails - works as both ring and bash

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Foot
    Bruce
    What brand outer ring are you running that has 38 teeth and does it have ramps a pins?
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  89. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Foot
    Bruce
    What brand outer ring are you running that has 38 teeth and does it have ramps a pins?
    I cannibalized the 38T middle ring off of my recumbent's Truvativ triple crankset and yes it has ramps and pins. But, I'll be installing the 30/40T middle and outer ring combo that BRUZED custom makes this weekend or next (they just arrived). So the 38T will go back on the recumbent and I will have some sweet gearing on the RIP with a 20/30/40 to cover all my needs and type of riding I do. I won't use the granny around these parts, but will when I travel to the mountains.

    BB

  90. #190
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    Sweet, you finally got them then Still won't go down that low, b ut I'd love to try one of his 30 and 40ts, but money is just to tight right now ehn I have a perfectly fine 38t that's working - I just spin faster if I want to go faster Looking forward to your thoughts on them and some nice pics BTW, please keep the scratches to a minimum,

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    I cannibalized the 38T middle ring off of my recumbent's Truvativ triple crankset and yes it has ramps and pins. But, I'll be installing the 30/40T middle and outer ring combo that BRUZED custom makes this weekend or next (they just arrived). So the 38T will go back on the recumbent and I will have some sweet gearing on the RIP with a 20/30/40 to cover all my needs and type of riding I do. I won't use the granny around these parts, but will when I travel to the mountains.

    BB
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  91. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    BTW, please keep the scratches to a minimum,
    I haven't taken a tumble yet.

    I'll post up a photo once I install the rings. According to the directions, I've got to do a little work on the XT spider before installing the rings so they fit nice and flush.

    BB

  92. #192
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    Well take off those whimpy little tyres and throw on some real meat and go ride that thing to it's limits. I highly recomend Ardent 2.25" REAR/Rampage 2.35" FRONT, excellent combo that's both quite fast rolling with a tremendous amount of grip

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    I haven't taken a tumble yet.

    I'll post up a photo once I install the rings. According to the directions, I've got to do a little work on the XT spider before installing the rings so they fit nice and flush.

    BB
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  93. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    Well take off those whimpy little tyres and throw on some real meat and go ride that thing to it's limits. I highly recomend Ardent 2.25" REAR/Rampage 2.35" FRONT, excellent combo that's both quite fast rolling with a tremendous amount of grip
    Wimpy little tires? Been running those Fire XC Pros that measure out a 2.2" all winter since they are the most aggressive tread I've got (pix above). Of course, nasty rolling resistance to go along with that....

    However, it's got an Ardent 2.4 up front and a Ralph 2.4 in the rear at the moment. Not too wimpy if you ask me in terms of volume. I'll probably pop the other Ardent 2.4 on the rear when I change out the rings (that way I only have to wash my hands once ). Will that make you feel better? ;-}

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/4297238299/" title="RIPwMEAT by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4297238299_64bdd84961_b.jpg" width="1024" height="752" alt="RIPwMEAT" /></a>

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    Last edited by BruceBrown; 01-28-2010 at 08:24 AM.

  94. #194
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    ... and if we just ...

    I'll agree that the 2.4" Ardent should be a nice tyre (only have experience with the 2.25") but I'd be skeptical pairing that up with a RR, unless it was the Snake Skin version (which the 2.4" isn't). Dual 2.4" Ardents F&R would be some serious meat for sure, not sure how they'd be on your terrain - let us know I'd maybe be a bit of a WW and go with the 2.25" in the rear and leave the 2.4" upfront for some weight loss and better RR.



    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    Wimpy little tires? Been running those Fire XC Pros that measure out a 2.2" all winter since they are the most aggressive tread I've got (pix above). Of course, nasty rolling resistance to go along with that....

    However, it's got an Ardent 2.4 up front and a Ralph 2.4 in the rear at the moment. Not too wimpy if you ask me in terms of volume. I'll probably pop the other Ardent 2.4 on the rear when I change out the rings (that way I only have to wash my hands once ). Will that make you feel better? ;-}

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/4297238299/" title="RIPwMEAT by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4297238299_64bdd84961_b.jpg" width="1024" height="752" alt="RIPwMEAT" /></a>

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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    Can't remember what rings BB is running (if you search for his built thread it'll say) but I run the Blackspire Super Pro 38t, it's 5mm thick and strong as nails - works as both ring and bash

    Is the Blackspire super pro 38t a middle ring, that you mounted as a outer ring,
    did you need longer chain ring bolts?

    Are you running a triple, and what other rings and crank are you running?

  96. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    I'll agree that the 2.4" Ardent should be a nice tyre (only have experience with the 2.25") but I'd be skeptical pairing that up with a RR, unless it was the Snake Skin version (which the 2.4" isn't). Dual 2.4" Ardents F&R would be some serious meat for sure, not sure how they'd be on your terrain - let us know I'd maybe be a bit of a WW and go with the 2.25" in the rear and leave the 2.4" upfront for some weight loss and better RR.

    I don't think they do the snake-skin in the 2.4 Ralph - just the 2.25. I won't be able to hit dirt for a couple of months due to it being winter and there is snow everywhere. But the Ralph is fine in the white stuff for my dog walks/rides every morning which is why I put it on there. I ran the Ralphs all winter last year as well because they make good snow tires.

    I think the 2.4 Ardents front and rear will be very nice for the terrain where I live for the "fun" bike. But I will have to wait and see what kind of wattage that takes to power up the hills. It may just be overkill and too tiring at which point going mullet with a smaller tire in the back will be the ticket, or running some less industrious meat for the fun stuff. Ardents roll plenty fast in spite of the weight, but I'm sure there will be a penalty on the climbs. In spite of that, they're perfect for my rigid Karate Monkey....

    Now if it I want to do some fast XC riding/racing on the RIP - I'll just throw some race tires on there (Aspens, Nano's, Ralph 2.25's or Race Kings) and have at it.

    BB

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    I guess that all depends on where you mount it, as you can use either side of the arms and mount it in middle or big ring position. As for bolts, no just used normal single ring chainring bolts. I run a 24/38 ring combo along with a 7 spd 34-15 on an SS hub.

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Foot
    Is the Blackspire super pro 38t a middle ring, that you mounted as a outer ring,
    did you need longer chain ring bolts?

    Are you running a triple, and what other rings and crank are you running?
    No, they don't do the Snakeskin in the 2.4" (dumb really). Yeah I know you're snow bound, was just saying, bet they float nice on the snow without having to worry about sharp stuff. Do you have a 2.25" Ardent or only the 2.4"s? What's your terrain like, mostly hardpack dirt and then roots? Just curious as I haven't got a load fo time on the Ardent as a front tyre (running Crossmark R/Ardent 2.25" F) but I took a HARD dive this afternoon when it washed out going into a hairpin on some rock covered with loose stuff Really not exactly sure what happened, was coming into the corner with a guy ahead of me on the outside, hit the brakes planning to just lightly wash the rear around and all of a sudden the front went 90 degrees and I got planted on solid rock and of all places on my bad hip Hoping the pressures were just to low (the tyre was quite soft to squash, so I added some air after, didn't take a reading to see exactly what PSI) rode pretty good after that. I like the combo though, fast as heck and grips like madd when climbing. Not sure if continuing the ride though was a good idea, especially when it happened less than 1 mile into it The riding wasn't bad, but when I had to walk, it hurt like crazy.

    Man I'm glad you didn't say Crows as well that would just have been utter sacrilidge

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    I don't think they do the snake-skin in the 2.4 Ralph - just the 2.25. I won't be able to hit dirt for a couple of months due to it being winter and there is snow everywhere. But the Ralph is fine in the white stuff for my dog walks/rides every morning which is why I put it on there. I ran the Ralphs all winter last year as well because they make good snow tires.

    I think the 2.4 Ardents front and rear will be very nice for the terrain where I live for the "fun" bike. But I will have to wait and see what kind of wattage that takes to power up the hills. It may just be overkill and too tiring at which point going mullet with a smaller tire in the back will be the ticket, or running some less industrious meat for the fun stuff. Ardents roll plenty fast in spite of the weight, but I'm sure there will be a penalty on the climbs. In spite of that, they're perfect for my rigid Karate Monkey....

    Now if it I want to do some fast XC riding/racing on the RIP - I'll just throw some race tires on there (Aspens, Nano's, Ralph 2.25's or Race Kings) and have at it.

    BB
    Last edited by LyNx; 01-28-2010 at 07:21 PM.
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  98. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    No, they don't do the Snakeskin in the 2.4" (dumb really). Yeah I know you're snow bound, was just saying, bet they float nice on the snow without having to worry about sharp stuff. Do you have a 2.25" Ardent or only the 2.4"s? What's your terrain like, mostly hardpack dirt and then roots? Just curious as I haven't got a load fo time on the Ardent as a front tyre (running Crossmark R/Ardent 2.25" F) but I took a HARD dive this afternoon when it washed out going into a hairpin on some rock covered with loose stuff Really not exactly sure what happened, was coming into the corner with a guy ahead of me on the outside, hit the brakes planning to just lightly wash the rear around and all of a sudden the front went 90 degrees and I got planted on solid rock and of all places on my bad hip Hoping the pressures were just to low (the tyre was quite soft to squash, so I added some air after, didn't take a reading to see exactly what PSI) rode pretty good after that. I like the combo though, fast as heck and grips like madd when climbing. Not sure if continuing the ride though was a good idea, especially when it happened less than 1 mile into it The riding wasn't bad, but when I had to walk, it hurt like crazy.

    Man I'm glad you didn't say Crows as well that would just have been utter sacrilidge
    Crows will be run on the Dos and JET - not the RIP.

    Pretty much devoid of a lot of nasty rocks where I live, but the exist on a lot of courses I travel to for races. My locale includes lots of off camber, roots, logs, sand, hard clay (when it's dry - and God knows what it is when it's wet or between wet and dry). I do not have a 2.25 Ardent, so cannot compare between the 2.4. Just from reading other's posts about the differences, it sounds like the 2.4 up front is an entirely different beast than the 2.25. Ditto for the sidewalls - as in more durable on the 2.4.

    I can say that of all the tires I've got, the 2.4 is the best front tire I've tried. Beats the Nevegal, Exiwolf, Fire XC Pro (although that's a damn good one to for sticking corners with no worries), XR 2.25, Ralph 2.4/2.25, Klaw, and of course all the race weenies I run. It's big meat. Running it front and rear is going to cost me a lot of extra watts and I will fatigue a lot quicker as well as use easier gearing. But, that combo would simply be for all around fun riding.

    Sorry about your washout and hope you heal quickly. You need to ride around and do corners for a few weeks/months on some Crows or Freds or Vulpines to appreciate the rest of your tires.

    BB

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    Yeah, me too Wasn't really feeling too bad yesterday and really wasn't feeling anything with the shoulder and made the mistake of playing fetch with my pup Now the shoulder is aching today and groin on the left leg is pulled from compensating for the right and right calf is cramped from walking funny

    On running the 2.4"s are needing more WATTS, just think how much training you'll be getting, you'll feel like you've added Nitrous and a Turbo when you switch to something lighter

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    Crows will be run on the Dos and JET - not the RIP.

    Pretty much devoid of a lot of nasty rocks where I live, but the exist on a lot of courses I travel to for races. My locale includes lots of off camber, roots, logs, sand, hard clay (when it's dry - and God knows what it is when it's wet or between wet and dry). I do not have a 2.25 Ardent, so cannot compare between the 2.4. Just from reading other's posts about the differences, it sounds like the 2.4 up front is an entirely different beast than the 2.25. Ditto for the sidewalls - as in more durable on the 2.4.

    I can say that of all the tires I've got, the 2.4 is the best front tire I've tried. Beats the Nevegal, Exiwolf, Fire XC Pro (although that's a damn good one to for sticking corners with no worries), XR 2.25, Ralph 2.4/2.25, Klaw, and of course all the race weenies I run. It's big meat. Running it front and rear is going to cost me a lot of extra watts and I will fatigue a lot quicker as well as use easier gearing. But, that combo would simply be for all around fun riding.


    Sorry about your washout and hope you heal quickly. You need to ride around and do corners for a few weeks/months on some Crows or Freds or Vulpines to appreciate the rest of your tires.

    BB
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  100. #200
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    Frame: Large, Maxle TA dropouts
    Fork: Reba Team 120mm, Maxle Light
    Wheels: Stans Flow laced to Hope Pro 2, 36h (Yeah Bro)
    Tires: Maxxis Ardent 2.4 (set up tubeless)
    Other Stuff: Gravity Light stem and crankset, Gravity Carbon 29" bar, Sram X9 rear der, Avid Juicy 7 brakes, funny rotors. Prologo Choice saddle, CB Joplin post, Ti hardware all over for fanciness.

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/91694861@N00/4452343701/" title="The New Rig by hukee, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4060/4452343701_d9f12baa70_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="The New Rig" /></a>

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