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  1. #801
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    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)

    Quote Originally Posted by SundayRiverRider View Post
    Man, that green looks so nice. Especially compared to the boring Raw new S2012 frameset I'm finishing up a build on. Everything sorted, but I think I might like wide beefy tires. I've gotten used to 2.4's on my xc bike, and I think I will probably want the chunkiest I can find for the RIP. What are the biggest tires people are using on this frame? I have a new pair of Hutchinson 2.3 front/ 2.1 rear Toro tubeless, but I may want a bigger rear tire. I'm using Easton Haven ust rims. I ride in really bumpy, rooty, rocky crap a lot so I need a tire that can hold up to some abuse too. Suggestions appreciated.
    I ran Chunky Monkey 2.4s front and rear on my RIP. Wide, high volume, tons of grip, and only $35.

  2. #802
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    Quote Originally Posted by kragu View Post
    I ran Chunky Monkey 2.4s front and rear on my RIP. Wide, high volume, tons of grip, and only $35.
    Yep +1.... Even better when using them on 35mm wide CF rims. No problems with clearance...
    No dabs allowed!

  3. #803
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    Quote Originally Posted by SundayRiverRider View Post
    Man, that green looks so nice. Especially compared to the boring Raw new S2012 frameset I'm finishing up a build on. Everything sorted, but I think I might like wide beefy tires. I've gotten used to 2.4's on my xc bike, and I think I will probably want the chunkiest I can find for the RIP. What are the biggest tires people are using on this frame? I have a new pair of Hutchinson 2.3 front/ 2.1 rear Toro tubeless, but I may want a bigger rear tire. I'm using Easton Haven ust rims. I ride in really bumpy, rooty, rocky crap a lot so I need a tire that can hold up to some abuse too. Suggestions appreciated.
    These bikes really reward being on the right tire at the right time, I would buy atleast an extra front wheel & have it setup to go.
    I just brought a couple more front < Hope Hoops front wheels from CRC, Flow EX rim's build up with Hope Pro 2 Evo hubs for less than $200 delivered is hard to go wrong.
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  4. #804
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    hey all - I haven't been able to read this whole thread, but I think I've seen some of you say you don't use 51mm offset forks, intentionally. Other brands like Ibis are saying 51mm is the Holy Grail for 29ers, so can someone explain why you don't like them on the Rip9?

    Also, are Pike forks a factory option (not shown in their Star builds), or are you just getting them swapped at the LBS?

  5. #805
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    I went with the 48mm (?) off set as the bike was designed with that in mind. Also by recommendations from others here who own both off set forks on RIP 9's
    2014 Niner RIP 9
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  6. #806
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    good suggestions on those chunky monkeys, thanks guys. Muzz I will look into another wheelset, but I have other bikes to ride too when the conditions warrant different tires/set ups ( i.e. xc bike, and fat bike). The RIP is going to be my bombing around thru gnarly terrain bike. Anyways, glad to see big tires will fit in the rear of the RIP9. I hadn't measured it yet, so I'm glad you folks had already figured it all out. I appreciate the feedback.

  7. #807
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    Quote Originally Posted by fsrxc View Post
    hey all - I haven't been able to read this whole thread, but I think I've seen some of you say you don't use 51mm offset forks, intentionally. Other brands like Ibis are saying 51mm is the Holy Grail for 29ers, so can someone explain why you don't like them on the Rip9?

    Also, are Pike forks a factory option (not shown in their Star builds), or are you just getting them swapped at the LBS?
    1st up there is no Holy Grail, for every plus there is a neg somewhere.

    With the 51mm offset, People are often trying to get the fork to give back what there frame has taken away.

    The Rip9 doesn't suffer such problems.

    I have both & like the 46mm more, The bike is more stable , Has a shorter wheel base & doesn't wonder as much on steep climbs.

    Some riders could ride both & not pick up the difference, But others would really notice it.

    Either way your ridding can adjust & it sure isn't a deal killer.

    There is still far more difference between how different fork types make the bike work, Than the difference between 46 & 51 offset.

    Just my 2 c, Hope this helps.
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  8. #808
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    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)

    Strange how the RIP was "designed around 46mm offset", yet the F34 that comes on the 4 star alloy build and the 5 star XTR RDO build has a 51mm offset. Must not matter a whole lot.

    I ran my 51mm Pike 150 on my alloy and loved it.

  9. #809
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    Quote Originally Posted by kragu View Post
    Strange how the RIP was "designed around 46mm offset", yet the F34 that comes on the 4 star alloy build and the 5 star XTR RDO build has a 51mm offset. Must not matter a whole lot.

    I ran my 51mm Pike 150 on my alloy and loved it.
    I wonder if it could be because of the ability to switch between 140 and 110 travel?
    2014 Niner RIP 9
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    Rock Shox Pike 140
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  10. #810
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    kragu;11182458]Strange how the RIP was "designed around 46mm offset", yet the F34 that comes on the 4 star alloy build and the 5 star XTR RDO build has a 51mm offset. Must not matter a whole lot.
    It doesn't matter that much, far more a fine tuning thing, Than a major bike setup change. IMO

    I ran my 51mm Pike 150 on my alloy and loved it.
    In this case the 150mm travel fork would have slowed down the steering & the 51mm offset will have speeded it back up.
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  11. #811
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    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)

    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    It doesn't matter that much, far more a fine tuning thing, Than a major bike setup change. IMO


    In this case the 150mm travel fork would have slowed down the steering & the 51mm offset will have speeded it back up.
    Now that you say that, I remember that being a part of the process when I was deciding on the offset.

  12. #812
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    Quote Originally Posted by stygz1 View Post
    2014 Rip 9 Medium
    Purpose- XC/Trail/Fun
    Rider weight -170lbs w/ gear
    Inseam - 30in
    Stock 3 star build (Full XT Shimano)
    Wheels - Roval Control Carbon
    Fork - Pike 140
    Pedals - XT trail
    Weight - 28.7lbs w/pedals
    Great looking bike stygz1, that's pretty much what I'm looking at getting. Can I ask how much you paid for it?

  13. #813
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    Thanks cyclones30. It has been a great bike so far. I got one reserved for rent on my trip to Sedona on June 29th. Seriously considering a wider bar. Maybe a RDO 780mm carbon or Renthal fatbar lite carbon 740mm
    2014 Niner RIP 9
    Full XT
    Rock Shox Pike 140
    Roval Control Carbon

  14. #814
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    Here's my Ripper. Comes in at 31pounds, 10 ounces, which is heavier than I'd hoped, but it doesn't feel that heavy on the trail.





    Frame 2014 Niner RIP 9 Large
    Fork Rock Shox Pike 140mm

    Components
    Headset King Inset 2
    Bottom Bracket Truvativ GXP
    Crankset SRAM s-1250 22/33
    Seatpost KS Lev 100mm
    Shifters SRAM X9 10 speed
    Brake Levers Hope Tech X2
    F. Derailleur SRAM X7 S3 DM
    R. Derailleur SRAM X9 Type 2 10 speed med cage
    Cassette SRAM PG 1070 11-36
    Chain KMC 10 speed
    Brakes Hope Tech X2 SE 183mm
    Cables Jagwire Titanium braided
    Seat Clamp Niner

    Front Wheel
    Rim Stan's Arch
    Hub Hope Pro 2
    Spokes DT Comp
    Tire Schwalbe Racing Ralph 2.25

    Rear Wheel
    Rim Stan's Arch
    Hub Hope Pro 2
    Spokes DT Comp
    Tire Maxxis Ikon EXO 2.2

    Handlebar Niner 710mm
    Stem + spacers Hope 90mm
    Seat Specialized Henge
    Pedals Time ATAC ROC Carbon
    Grips Ergon GR2
    Computer Garmin Edge 510
    Accessories Hope Matchmakers, linkage shield
    Last edited by rufus; 07-01-2014 at 03:01 PM.

  15. #815
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    That's odd. I came in at 30.5 with substantially heavier tires, albeit running 1x10. If you can drop your FD, its shifter, and cable, you'll save almost a pound.

  16. #816
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    Not gonna ditch the front derailleur. Need all the climbing help I can get, and other than trying to wrap my head around an almost 32 pound measurement, the weight doesn't bother me.

    Those Time pedals and Ergon grips are 1.5 pounds all by themselves.

  17. #817
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    Love those Times. They're my go-to pedal for XC, though I used flats on the RIP and now on the Lunchbox.

  18. #818
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    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-14616385962_481e25848c_b.jpg

    Main purpose: Trail Riding
    -Trail location/terrain: Central Oregon (Bend) - Northwest Singletrack
    -Frame Year/Size/Color: 2014 L Green
    -Rider Weight: 215
    -Rider Height/Inseam: 6'1"/35"
    -Stem (length/rise): Thomson Elite X4 - 90mm/10 degree (flipped)
    -Grips: Lizard Skins North Shore
    -Seatpost: Thomson Elite
    -Saddle: Fizik Tundra
    -Handlebar: Thomson Carbon All-Mountain riser - 730mm
    -Rear Shock: Monarch RT3
    -Fork: Fox Float 32 w. CTD, FIT - 130mm
    -Brake Setup: Shimano XT, 180mm front, 160mm rear
    -Drivetrain Setup: SRAM XX1 cranks (32t), X01 everywhere else (10-42t cassette)
    -Cables : SRAM Slickwire
    -Tires: Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.4 front, Schwalbe Racing Ralph 2.25 rear
    -Wheels: Roval Control Carbons, upgraded to 36 step ratchet
    -Pedals: Time ATAC XC8
    -Build Weight: Haven't weighed it. Feels spry enough!

    I told myself that once I'd lost a bike's worth of weight (30 lbs) I'd get myself a new toy. This is it! Its my first time owning a full suspension bike after a lifetime of racing hardtails. Its a real blast, and has changed my riding already.

    I also made a time lapse of the build, which you can see here:

  19. #819
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    If you don't mind me asking how much for the dt 240 hub upgrade parts?
    2014 Niner RIP 9
    Full XT
    Rock Shox Pike 140
    Roval Control Carbon

  20. #820
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    Quote Originally Posted by stygz1 View Post
    If you don't mind me asking how much for the dt 240 hub upgrade parts?
    They are typically around $90 for the 36 step star rachets.

  21. #821
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    I see the new Rip 9 spec update is almost the same as how I had mine built/upgraded. I don't have the dropper post....not sure if I care about that, already had the shorter stem from other bike, just got my RDO 780 bars Monday.

    Niner listened to the demand for the Pike!
    2014 Niner RIP 9
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    Rock Shox Pike 140
    Roval Control Carbon

  22. #822
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kuttermax View Post
    They are typically around $90 for the 36 step star rachets.
    I just ordered some for my DT 240.. $80 with my 15% discount at my LBS.

  23. #823
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    I am going to call my niner dealer and see if they have them Instock. Otherwise my lbs should be able to order them for me.
    2014 Niner RIP 9
    Full XT
    Rock Shox Pike 140
    Roval Control Carbon

  24. #824
    Dave
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    Congrats on your weight loss man. Fine looking green Niner there man. How do you like the 1x10?
    I need to ride more and work less.

  25. #825
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    Quote Originally Posted by liteandfast View Post
    Congrats on your weight loss man. Fine looking green Niner there man. How do you like the 1x10?
    Hey, thanks!

    I've been a bit mixed on the 1x10 so far. I've been impressed with its ability to keep the chain in place, and I've loved the simplicity of the setup. I've got great gear range that covers most situations. I like the stiffness of the new x01 derailleurs, also. Not worrying about gear overlap/cross chaining is glorious, and not managing a front derailleur is very nice also.

    On the other hand, the jumps between cogs are larger than I'd like. It is difficult to find the perfect cadence (I'm in the spin to win camp). To be fair, the XX setup suffers from larger cog jumps than I'd like towards the bottom of the range (easier gears) also. Another gripe with the large jumps is that shifting is just a bit clunkier than on a more sanely spaced cassette. Finally, I'm not a huge fan of the XD freehub bodies. The threading seems like a recipe for trouble in an extended wear scenario, but we shall see.


    For the folks that asked about the 36 step ratchet, they usually come in around $90. Replacement is a breeze. If you've never rebuilt a DT-Swiss freehub its a bit of a revelation (especially if you *have* rebuilt older pawl-based freehubs, then had a pawl go flying under the couch when the whole thing exploded), so its a good excuse to dive in
    Last edited by tristans; 07-22-2014 at 10:54 AM.

  26. #826
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    Here is my 2011 Rip 9 size M, Raw

    -Trail location/terrain: Raleigh NC Area Singletrack
    -Stem (length/rise): Thomson Elite X4 - 50mm/0 degree
    -Seatpost: Thomson Elite
    -Saddle: WTB Pure V Race
    -Handlebar: Forte Carbon Riser - 680mm
    -Rear Shock: Fox RP2
    -Fork: Rockshox Pike RCT3 Solo Air 140mm, 51mm offset
    -Brakes: Formula RX
    -10sp Drivetrain Setup: Shimano M785 XT cranks 175mm (40/28), XT 10-36 cassette, Shimano M780 shifters, M786 Shadow Plus Rear, Shimano HG95 chain, Derailleur, M786 Front Derailleur
    -Tires: WTB Exiwolf 2.3 front/rear
    -Wheels: Stans Flow with HD 3.30 hubs
    -Pedals: Time ATAC XC8
    -Build Weight: 30.2 lbs
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-bike1_1024.jpg  


  27. #827
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    So a few weeks ago I went on a long road ride with a buddy, and after a while off the Rip, getting back on I felt like i was a bit too stretched out. People on here initially said I should try the bike with a 70 or even 50mm stem, so I ordered a 70mm Hope, which arrived the other day. Took my first ride with it yesterday, and it definitely made a huge difference. I had no problems with the Rip's handling before, but now it's even better.

    I won't say it's quicker than before, but it feels more directly connected, more responsive. Picks a line and sticks on it, no wavering. Bars ended up only about 3mm lower, so not a major change, and since the stem is shorter, should keep the front weighted as much as before with the longer stem.

  28. #828
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    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)

    Quote Originally Posted by dba4life View Post
    Here is my 2011 Rip 9 size M, Raw

    -Trail location/terrain: Raleigh NC Area Singletrack
    -Stem (length/rise): Thomson Elite X4 - 50mm/0 degree
    -Seatpost: Thomson Elite
    -Saddle: WTB Pure V Race
    -Handlebar: Forte Carbon Riser - 680mm
    -Rear Shock: Fox RP2
    -Fork: Rockshox Pike RCT3 Solo Air 140mm, 51mm offset
    -Brakes: Formula RX
    -10sp Drivetrain Setup: Shimano M785 XT cranks 175mm (40/28), XT 10-36 cassette, Shimano M780 shifters, M786 Shadow Plus Rear, Shimano HG95 chain, Derailleur, M786 Front Derailleur
    -Tires: WTB Exiwolf 2.3 front/rear
    -Wheels: Stans Flow with HD 3.30 hubs
    -Pedals: Time ATAC XC8
    -Build Weight: 30.2 lbs
    I don't know that there's a 3 year old model that looks as good as these. The raw has grown on me over time. Nice bike, man!

  29. #829
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    Quote Originally Posted by rufus View Post
    So a few weeks ago I went on a long road ride with a buddy, and after a while off the Rip, getting back on I felt like i was a bit too stretched out. People on here initially said I should try the bike with a 70 or even 50mm stem, so I ordered a 70mm Hope, which arrived the other day. Took my first ride with it yesterday, and it definitely made a huge difference. I had no problems with the Rip's handling before, but now it's even better.





    I won't say it's quicker than before, but it feels more directly connected, more responsive. Picks a line and sticks on it, no wavering. Bars ended up only about 3mm lower, so not a major change, and since the stem is shorter, should keep the front weighted as much as before with the longer stem.
    I had my niner dealer put on my Race Face Turbine 60mm stem upon set up. I did however go back later and try the stock niner 90mm stem but went back after just one ride. If you look at the latest offerings (2015 FWIW) the RIP line now comes stock with the Niner trail stem, not sure if it is the 70 or 50mm though. It seems niner is listening to consumers (short stem/wide bars, Pike fork, dropper post etc) with their latest build offerings.

    To take my statement about listening to the customer further, Niner should consider offering a wheel upgrade to the Niner Carbons from the Stans for an upcharge on their complete bike offerings upon ordering. I think Santa Cruise does this with Enve wheels.
    2014 Niner RIP 9
    Full XT
    Rock Shox Pike 140
    Roval Control Carbon

  30. #830
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    This may be a stupid question, but will my BB30 X9 crank work on a RIP 9 RDO?

  31. #831
    Biking Like Crazy!
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    Quote Originally Posted by WoodstockMTB View Post
    This may be a stupid question, but will my BB30 X9 crank work on a RIP 9 RDO?
    No, the Rip 9 RDO has a 73mm English threaded BB and the BB30 is a larger press fit interface.
    It would work on the Jet RDO.
    Ibis HD3
    Niner Rip9 RDO
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    Knolly Podium

  32. #832
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    What I thought...but a site selling them said PF30....had me confounded for a moment.

  33. #833
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    Quote Originally Posted by WoodstockMTB View Post
    This may be a stupid question, but will my BB30 X9 crank work on a RIP 9 RDO?
    No. I just replaced my Jet 9 RDO with a Rip 9 RDO. The Jet had the BB30 and I was hoping to use it but the Rip requires the GXP English crank. I ended up selling my crank set and upgraded to the Sram XX1 1x11. Cost me a little more for the upgrade but boy is that XX1 sweet! Highly recommend. Also, you're going to love that Rip!
    Single Track Rules!

  34. #834
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    For those of you running LEV dropper posts in your M RIP 9's - what's the ideal amount of travel? Debating 100mm vs. 125mm. I'm 5'9" and the frame is a 2010.

    Thanks!

  35. #835
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hellgatebasement View Post
    For those of you running LEV dropper posts in your M RIP 9's - what's the ideal amount of travel? Debating 100mm vs. 125mm. I'm 5'9" and the frame is a 2010.

    Thanks!
    As a data point for others, my Lev 125 dropper is inserted as far as it can go into my small RIP 9 RDO (I have a 30" inseam). Luckily, I don't need it lower at full extension. I'd get less drop (100mm) if I could do it again, as it would give more flexibility...and I don't typically drop it all the way anyway.

  36. #836
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hellgatebasement View Post
    For those of you running LEV dropper posts in your M RIP 9's - what's the ideal amount of travel? Debating 100mm vs. 125mm. I'm 5'9" and the frame is a 2010.

    Thanks!
    Check this out for reference: http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/...ed-837468.html

    Looks towards the end of the page for "limonko's" post. it shows dimensions you need to have to determine how much travel you can fit into your bike. You need to measure your current post length and then use that figure out what length LEV to get.

  37. #837
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    XL RIP 9 all set up at 27.91 pounds with a triple (20/30/40) XT crank, Light Bicycle AM rims, 2.3 Renegades, Thomson -15 degree 130mm stem ready for Endurance Racing this weekend!!!


  38. #838
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    Looks great. Good luck with your race. Need to hear results and experience on this setup.
    Single Track Rules!

  39. #839
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    Here's my new RIP I got about a month ago. Mostly a 3-Star build but not exactly. Weighs in just under 30 lbs but that's a bathroom scale so who knows.

    Frame: Med 2014 RIP 9 Alloy
    Fork: Revelation 130mm with sag markings
    Shock: Monarch RT3
    Wheels: Stans Flow EX
    Tires: 2.35 Nobby Nic's (tubeless)
    Brakes: XT 180/160mm
    Shifters and Derailleurs: XT
    Cassette, Chain, Crank: XT
    Bars: Niner Carbon
    Seat post: Niner carbon
    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-img_20140809_200314_005.jpg

  40. #840
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    First I've ever built from the ground up. Thanks for the wealth of knowledge here.

    Frame and fork are used, would never know they weren't new, everything else is new. Full XT drive and brakes, 2x10 crank

    Have a medium Air 9 and went with a small on this, glad I did, it's perfect


    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-imag.jpg

  41. #841
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    Quote Originally Posted by HouseNotes View Post
    Looks great. Good luck with your race. Need to hear results and experience on this setup.
    Bike was great!! Especially on the rough, long descents, and the technical stuff. The aggressive position with the long stem flipped negative was perfect on the climbs, but perhaps got a bit uncomfortable on the neck for those really long descents that went on forever in the latter hours of the race. Nothing a dropper post wouldn't solve, but for one race the pain in the neck I felt was less than had I bought a dropper post for one event and suffered the pain in the neck from the wife for the expense. The gearing helped me on the climbs for sure compared to the 2 x 9 I ran on the JET 9 last time. I was able to spin up a lot more this time around.

    The whole day just didn't feel like it was the greatest effort from me on Sunday, but I did manage to shave about 13:43 minutes off my time from 2012 when I rode the JET 9. Still trying to figure out exactly what endurance pace is/should be compared to shorter XC events. My only goal was to shave a bit of time from my last showing in 2012. I had my target set on shaving 20-30 minutes so I fell a little short of what I was hoping to do in terms of shaving off 30 minutes. Dealing with rain and some slick rocks, combined with stopping for a beer and bacon around mile 40 may have contributed to a few minutes that I could have trimmed. It was a fun time though and the extra squish of my RIP over my JET was well worth it for me.



    And yes, the BB7's with 160mm front rotor and 140mm rear rotor was plenty for the 50 mile ride in the mountains with long descents - and with some rain. Not sure about the age old myth of having to stop mid-ride and adjust the knobs. Brakes were fine the entire race without any need to stop and adjust. And I went for a ride this morning where they are still fine. That's now 2 weeks of riding with over 100 miles and no knob turning.
    Last edited by BruceBrown; 09-02-2014 at 11:26 AM.

  42. #842
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    curious if anyone has the weight difference b/t a RIP9 alloy and Rip9 RDO? Large frame. I heard 295 grams savings on a medium frame, but not sure.

    thx!

  43. #843
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    It is close to .65 lbs
    2014 Niner RIP 9
    Full XT
    Rock Shox Pike 140
    Roval Control Carbon

  44. #844
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    Just started building up my RDO.

    SHould I be concerned that I was able to press in the lower headset cup by hand? The top needed a press, but the bottom just popped right in by hand with not much force. It appears stable (ie I can't rotate it or easily pull it back out.

    THanks

  45. #845
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    When I installed a canecreek headset in my Rip RDO, it required a press for top and bottom. If it doesn't move, I think it's ok. I'd give Niner a call to double check.

  46. #846
    Biking Like Crazy!
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    Mine went in pretty easy compared to the Rip 9 that they came out of, but with the preload you give the bearings it shouldn't be a problem.
    No creaking. Mine are the FSA headset. Remember to re-check them after a few ride though.

    BTW you would be well served by checking cytoe's skid plates out for your frame!
    Ibis HD3
    Niner Rip9 RDO
    Niner WFO
    Knolly Podium

  47. #847
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    I have brand new skid plate on it right now. I also had one on my Jet 9 that I am selling. Cytoe did great work with those. The RIP bottom linkages hang way more below the front 1x ring I have than the Jet did. No doubt I will need it.

    Also going to do some preventative rock taping this time.

    Any suggested areas besides the inside of the rear triangle and where any cables will rub?

  48. #848
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    I'm not sure I feel like taping mine up. Bikes and battle scars go well together, to me at least. Cable rub spots are another matter, I don't like those. Definitely considering that skid plate though...

  49. #849
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    I'd definitely address the cable hot spots.

    The only other suggestion I'd make is the inside of the rear triangle. It can get pretty beat up and its the only place I'm going to tape. I have always been a use it and abuse it owner of anything from bikes to skis to clothes. Keeping things nice seems like time that could be spent using the product so long as maintenance is done.

    Maybe I'm getting more responsible as I get older. I guess I want any preventative protection I can get for obvious spots. The inside of the rear triangle can take a beating from tire rub to rocks, mud, etc. Other than that I don't see much need to tape as well.

  50. #850
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    For the record, if anyone is on the fence with height (5'7"-5'8"), I'd go with a small.

    The stand over height, flickability is greatly improved over the larger size and I don't think I gave up anything in stability. Way more "in the bike" feel people talk about.

    RIP 9 RDO is a fantastic bike.

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