Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 27
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    90

    Rip9 RDO w/Pike setup

    What are your settings for your pike and rear shock?

    My setup:
    180lbs ready to ride
    Rip 9 RDO Large.
    140mm 51 offset Pike.

    I have the air pressure in the front shock at 50psi right now. And still not getting 25% sag. Rear at 150psi and at 25% sag. The front is a little stiffer than the rear. I'm worried about going much lower on the air pressure in the fork. I know every fork is different but I've never had a fork with pressures this low. Also if you guys don't mind throw in your lsc and rebound settings.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    78
    While I don't have the RDO, I do have the Rip 9 Alloy with the Pike. I have never bothered setting sag points on the pike, the fork simply rides to high in the travel even at low pressure. I'm maybe a little over the 180lb mark ready to ride.

    After a year of playing around which includes a trip to Moab, some local XC, some local all mountain, and a day at Blue Mountain bike park, I can give you some feedback. With two tokens and 65 psi, I would bottom out the fork on XC trials with some 2-3' drops. I added a third token and dropped the PSI to 60. This felt very nice on the XC, but at the bike park, the fork would bottom out a little hard. I'm now at 65 psi with three tokens and I'm very happy. I'm not a 30' gapper at the bike park, maybe more like 8' to 10'. I hit every expert downhill, just not the big drops (maybe next time). The fork uses all its travel but doesn't end harsh. I don't recall my rebound or LSC settings but the front is a little faster than the rear just to help keep me from noise diving off jumps.

    I don't know that the pike plays by standard sag rules.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    90
    Thanks for the reply. Exactly the kind of stuff I was looking for.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    17
    On my RDO at 195lbs riding weight, after 8 months this what I found works best for me trail riding. Typically my biggest drops are 2-3'

    Pike 140mm 51
    2 Tokens
    68psi which measures out to 20% sag
    rebound is 6 clicks from full fast
    6 clicks of LSC
    I am always in the Open mode. Not a fan of the Pedal mode and rarely need to lock out.

    Rear shock is 175 psi for 25% sag
    Rebound is 6 clicks from full fast
    If I am in Trail mode it is dialed to the 2 setting.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    23
    Since you guys are both on Pikes with 51mm offset, would you recommend it? I've heard some say it's not needed for Niners due to the steering angle, but I'm curious. I like the longish wheelbase of the L Rip RDO, but sometimes i wonder if i'd like the turn-in a little quicker, which is what I've gathered the 51mm offset provides.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    90
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott the Great View Post
    Since you guys are both on Pikes with 51mm offset, would you recommend it? I've heard some say it's not needed for Niners due to the steering angle, but I'm curious. I like the longish wheelbase of the L Rip RDO, but sometimes i wonder if i'd like the turn-in a little quicker, which is what I've gathered the 51mm offset provides.
    After riding the Rip for a couple weeks. There are some things that I'm not liking. There are also so things I love. Last night at dinner I was telling my wife I'm not sure I bought the right bike. After reading your question. I read some more about the offset.

    Art's Cyclery Blog Ask a Mechanic: 29er Forks ? 46mm or 51mm Offset?

    Things that are said here as a disadvantage of the 51mm. Are almost word for word what I was telling her I didn't like about the bike. Our local builders like to use a lot of switchbacks up and downhill. When I'm climbing and try to do the steep switchbacks. The front end wants to actually kick out from under. Anything at slow speeds with turning also feels awkward. Now when things are downhill, wide open, and fast pretty much everthing is good.

    I guess you should decide based off the type od trails you will be riding. But I guess for me I'll be looking into trying to get mine converted or switched out somehow to a 46mm offset fork.

  7. #7
    Carbon & Ti rule
    Reputation: muzzanic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    5,224
    I have both 46 & 51 off set & I like the 46mm off set more.


    Quote Originally Posted by fordohio View Post
    After riding the Rip for a couple weeks. There are some things that I'm not liking. There are also so things I love. Last night at dinner I was telling my wife I'm not sure I bought the right bike. After reading your question. I read some more about the offset.

    Art's Cyclery Blog Ask a Mechanic: 29er Forks ? 46mm or 51mm Offset?

    Things that are said here as a disadvantage of the 51mm. Are almost word for word what I was telling her I didn't like about the bike. Our local builders like to use a lot of switchbacks up and downhill. When I'm climbing and try to do the steep switchbacks. The front end wants to actually kick out from under. Anything at slow speeds with turning also feels awkward. Now when things are downhill, wide open, and fast pretty much everthing is good.

    I guess you should decide based off the type od trails you will be riding. But I guess for me I'll be looking into trying to get mine converted or switched out somehow to a 46mm offset fork.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: oaklandish's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    181
    46 offset on mine as well. I definitely wouldn't want any more twitch in the front end. I also have a freakishly long cycling inseam and have to use a 30mm spacer and +17 rise stem and riser bars to keep the grips barely below/even with the saddle. This makes the front end a bit lighter, so a faster steering bike/wandering on the uphills would not be what I am after.

    I run about 60lbs on the fork with 1 token and 4-5clicks from the fastest rebound setting on the Pike 140mm. I am not bottoming out at all. The rear shock is going to PUSH or Avalanche as soon as I can spare the time off the bike. I basically am completely underwhelmed by the Float CTD and wish I could fit a DB Inline on this bike. Other than the rear shock tune, I love, love, love this bike.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    1,355
    Seems like a lot of pressure. I have not set sag but use the guide sticker on the fork. I weigh about 175 w/gear and set the pressure to 75psi. I cannot remember the rebound settings I use. As for tokens it is what ever was stock.
    2014 Niner RIP 9
    Full XT
    Rock Shox Pike 140
    Roval Control Carbon

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    1,355
    by the way any of you with a 140 pike have the sag indicators on the fork stansions? My pike only has the recommended guide sticker on the fork leg.
    2014 Niner RIP 9
    Full XT
    Rock Shox Pike 140
    Roval Control Carbon

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    90
    Quote Originally Posted by oaklandish View Post
    I run about 60lbs on the fork with 1 token and 4-5clicks from the fastest rebound setting on the Pike 140mm. I am not bottoming out at all. The rear shock is going to PUSH or Avalanche as soon as I can spare the time off the bike. I basically am completely underwhelmed by the Float CTD and wish I could fit a DB Inline on this bike. Other than the rear shock tune, I love, love, love this bike.
    What about the rear don't you like? The rear on mine feels great.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    90
    No numbers on mine. I have the defused black.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: oaklandish's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    181
    Quote Originally Posted by fordohio View Post
    What about the rear don't you like? The rear on mine feels great.
    Can't get full travel and have the CTD switch do what it was designed to do. The valving seems to be off for my weight and riding style I guess (185lbs geared up and aggressive/trail AM). Trail and descend feel about the same, and climb mode makes the rear lose all kinds of traction. It packs in really bad if I use too low of pressure trying to get full travel. Then I have to set the rebound up higher to combat the packing in, this makes square edge hits, while seated, donkey kick me off the saddle.

    I'll take any rear set-up advice and try it at this point. I have tried quite a few things, but I am sure there are more tune variations to work through.

    And my Pike 140mm had no sag indicators on the leg. I was a little annoyed by that, but quickly got over it after the first ride. Great fork!

  14. #14
    Carbon & Ti rule
    Reputation: muzzanic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    5,224
    Not on my 140mm pike, but do have on my 160mm on the WFO, The 150mm do as well but I have not seen any 140 with the markings.


    Quote Originally Posted by stygz1 View Post
    by the way any of you with a 140 pike have the sag indicators on the fork stansions? My pike only has the recommended guide sticker on the fork leg.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    370
    I've had the same feelings about the back end on my Mojo SL. Hated that Fox until I had it SEx'd, but that made it real nice. Put RWC bearings on the shock and it became crazy plush. Now, I'm feeling the same way about the Fox CTD on my RIP RDO. I'll keep riding it, since it's real new still, but I figure SEx, Push, or another local suspension shop will have it this winter.

    I'm a little lighter than you (165 BN) and I'm running my Pike 140 real low also, 55 or so. Again, some of it is because it's still so new, but like my Float 150 on that same Mojo SL, I suspect the suspension guru's will work wonders on it. I really hated that fork, but SEx made it a whole new animal. Still flexy, but at least it works now. At least the Pike is solid, if a little less than plush.

    I'd ride it till sometime this winter and get them both worked over by your favorite tuner.

  16. #16
    All Fun Rider
    Reputation: 50mm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    56
    I have an RDO frame coming in the mail that I'll be building up and I'm curious what you mean by SEx'd it lol? Also which type of bearings/which kits from RWC are you talking about exactly that improved performance, and what about was the total cost?

    Something I could do at home?

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    370
    SEx = Suspension Experts, out of Asheville, NC. I went with them instead of PUSH due to locality & first hand recommendations. I'd go with either company, whichever has the lower turn around time. First year I'll get SEx or Push to do a factory tuning, and then take care of it myself afterward. Oil, seals, whatever.

    The bearing kit (remember this is a Mojo SL we're talking about) was the RWC needle bearing kit for the shock. Replaced the bushings, top & bottom. It really took me by surprise, how much that mod changed the bike. I changed them out because my stock bushings were very tight & had a ton of stiction and figured I'd try RWC. Glad I did. Cost was just under 72 bucks, shipped.

    No clue if a Rip would benefit the way the Ibis did, and mine is way too new to worry about tearing that stuff apart yet.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    96
    I talked to the guys at Niner directly, and their answer was that all of their bikes with the exception of the WFO spec a 46mm offset fork (the WFO is 51). When I was building my Rip 9 RDO he recommended the 46 as that's what the frame geometry was designed for.

    I took their advice and couldn't be happier.

    R.
    Last edited by flybigjet; 4 Weeks Ago at 07:03 AM.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    17
    I went with a 150 with 51 offset and later lowered it to 140, because that's what I as able to get quickly at the time of my build.

    I have been able to ride a 140 with a 46 offset and could not really say there was a noticeable difference.

    If I were in your shoes, I would go with the 46 as it what Niner specs as FBJ pointed out and never think or search the forums about it again.


  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    90
    I decided after spending all the money on this bike that I did. I had to change to the 45 offset. To see if the things I didn't like would go away. Well for me and the type of trails we have locally the 45 is the way to go. The Arts cyclery blog is right on. We have tight corners with a lot of uphill switchbacks. The bike is much more predictable in those situations. The bike went from me having to really concentrating on keeping the front planted and not kicking out. To riding straight thru the corners without any trouble. It will still kick the front end out if you have bad body positioning. I didn't really notice anything changing on the downhills. But I'm not the type that really pushes really hard on the downhills.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    17
    Glad you were able to get it sorted out. Did you replace the whole fork or just the crown and steerer tube?

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: oaklandish's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    181
    You can't change crown and steerer any more on most forks. You can replace the uppers which include the crown and steerer and upper legs, or you can replace the lowers. In this case to go from 51mm to 46mm offset you would have to change out the lowers; or get a whole new fork if the lowers were not available.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: global's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    122
    Just replacing upper legs on pike I purchased from classified without asking steer tube length( it was 6 inches). Took a lot of effort to find 46 offset at 120 for my JET 9.They are out of stock most places. Should be done Monday.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    17
    Ya, i meant the upper assembly.

    Dont think changing lowers has anything to do with the offset on the Pike

    Quote Originally Posted by oaklandish View Post
    You can't change crown and steerer any more on most forks. You can replace the uppers which include the crown and steerer and upper legs, or you can replace the lowers. In this case to go from 51mm to 46mm offset you would have to change out the lowers; or get a whole new fork if the lowers were not available.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: oaklandish's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    181
    Quote Originally Posted by schocka View Post
    Ya, i meant the upper assembly.

    Dont think changing lowers has anything to do with the offset on the Pike
    I stand corrected. I just checked the Rockshox parts list and they list the Pike uppers in either 46mm or 51mm offsets.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 893
    Last Post: 4 Days Ago, 05:21 PM
  2. Revelation vs. Pike Rip9 RDO
    By Jongalt26 in forum Niner Bikes
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 08-22-2013, 03:02 PM
  3. 150mm Pike and the RIP9 RDO ?
    By Colin+M in forum Niner Bikes
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 05-22-2013, 07:52 PM
  4. RIP9 suspension setup
    By flagrider3 in forum Niner Bikes
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-15-2012, 03:39 AM
  5. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 11-30-2011, 07:57 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •