Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Tillers_Rule's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    570

    RIP 9 bearings, replacing, play, etc

    Good day,

    It's been a while since I've posted here. Took a bad spill a year ago and took some time off the ride.

    So, I've gotten over my fears and am back in the saddle.

    I picked up a new frame last year a few months before my spill, so bike only has a couple dozen rides on it, maybe 250-300 miles.

    Getting an awful creaking from the back when riding, so I took it apart and found the driver side bearings in the rear triangle were completely seized. So I have some new ones on order.

    My questions and concerns. Seems pretty quick for the bearings to wear out, as my old RIP 9 (2012) lasted two years with no issues. I ended up replacing frame due to parking lot accident where it was run over

    Question: When torquing all the bearing bolts to the proper specs (15nm), should there be any play between the rear and front triangles? I noticed, when I pick up the bike from the frame, the rear triangle drops a few mm, there's some slop in it. I'm thinking this could be due to the bad bearings, or it could be normal, though seems odd to be normal. I haven't seen any other bikes that have this issue.

    Thanks for the feedback!

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    495
    There should be no play (at least not on my RIP RDO).

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Tillers_Rule's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    570
    Thanks for the reply. I ended up replacing all the bearings, torquing to proper specs, bikes quieter and smoother now!

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    534
    If there is bearing play then its because the adjuster (red conical piece that threads onto the linkage axle) is too loose. It can also be too tight and cause premature wear on the bearings. You need to set the preload on the adjuster, then torque down the outside lock bolts.
    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    If I told you I saw a unicorn ****ing a leprechaun trail side, you'd probably be suspicious.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    495
    If it's not a RDO or carbon RIP though, then that doesn't apply, because the alloy RIP uses regular bearings (not ACB) that are pressed in at all pivot locations. Only the hardware that connects every thing together is torqued, like on the seatstay-to-rocker pivots on the RDO/Carbon models.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Tillers_Rule's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    570
    Correct, there is no adjuster to pre-load, just 8 bearings that I pressed in.

  7. #7
    Drinkin' the RIP9 Koolaid
    Reputation: Kaizmuth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    148
    Check the DU bushing at the top of the shock. When that wears, it'll cause that vertical play in the rear triangle.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Tillers_Rule's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    570
    Thanks, I had thought of that too, so made sure to check it, grease the pivot points.


    So, I get in all of three rides and the creaking came back with a vengeance. Took everything apart, again and found the bottom two bearings in the rear triangle are toast already, WTF The other 6 bearings still feel new.

    After I pressed in all the bearings, checked them and all were silky smooth. Torqued them all down to the recommended 15NM. Creaks were gone, bike was smooth, etc.

    Any ideas what/why these blew out so quickly?

    I'll go ahead and replace them, but can't keep doing this every few rides.

    I'm going to hit up Niner as well.

    Thanks






    Attachment 1070587
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RIP 9 bearings, replacing, play, etc-ninerbb.jpg  


  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    534
    Take out the bearings and evaluate them outside of the frame. Sometimes a bearing seat can be made slightly undersized and some bearings fit just right enough to make them feel crunchy. Everything has a manufacturing tolerance. Also make sure that you have all of the red bearing spacers installed and in the correct places and that there is no contact where there shouldn't be.

    Are you sure that the noise is suspension related? My seapost clamp bolts tend to creak before anything else. To check you can jump on the pedals while not pedaling or moving and listen. Also check the maxle to make sure it is tight and clean.
    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    If I told you I saw a unicorn ****ing a leprechaun trail side, you'd probably be suspicious.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Tillers_Rule's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    570
    Quote Originally Posted by PeopleForScience View Post
    Take out the bearings and evaluate them outside of the frame. Sometimes a bearing seat can be made slightly undersized and some bearings fit just right enough to make them feel crunchy. Everything has a manufacturing tolerance. Also make sure that you have all of the red bearing spacers installed and in the correct places and that there is no contact where there shouldn't be.

    Are you sure that the noise is suspension related? My seapost clamp bolts tend to creak before anything else. To check you can jump on the pedals while not pedaling or moving and listen. Also check the maxle to make sure it is tight and clean.
    Thanks for the quick reply. I'm not sure the creak is coming from the suspension. I actually thought it was the heat set, as that's where my initial diagnosis led, but after taking apart, cleaning/inspecting/lubing and reassembling, the creak remained, so next thought was bearings.

    The creaks are a ***** to pinpoint, so I'll keep checking other components out as well, thanks for the maxle suggestion.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    868
    Quote Originally Posted by OhioPT View Post
    If it's not a RDO or carbon RIP though, then that doesn't apply, because the alloy RIP uses regular bearings (not ACB) that are pressed in at all pivot locations. Only the hardware that connects every thing together is torqued, like on the seatstay-to-rocker pivots on the RDO/Carbon models.
    So I'm having a bad ticking/clicking sound on my alloy Rip, with every pedal stroke. I'm figuring it's either a loose pedal, some play in the crankset, or loose suspension pivots. So when I get the time, I'll have to put the bike on the stand and try to track the noise down.

    I'm taking from this reply, there's nothing on my rear suspension to adjust, if the bearings are ok, other than to make sure the outer bolts are all torqued to spec? Nothing to grease, or otherwise mess with other than the locking bolts?

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    17
    Last time I had a bad creak, I disassembled all the pivots, cleaned and reassembled. The bearings were fine, but I found some wear on the red spacer ring on the lower front drive-side pivot. The inner bearing race had eaten into the ring, so even though the pivot bolts had not loosened, there was still some play here. I flipped the ring around to put the notched side against the frame and fresh side against the inner bearing race to restore the correct spacing and that fixed it.

    Niner sent me some replacement rings that I can put in next time I take things apart.

    RIP 9 bearings, replacing, play, etc-niner_rip9_pivot_rings.jpg

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Tillers_Rule's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    570
    Awesome, thanks for that suggestion. I have the same wear on the spacers, didn't pay attention to which way I put them back in though.

    I have so many creaks/squeaks/rattles from my bike it's pretty frustrating. When I pedal hard I get a terrible creak, which I think is coming from the aluminum freehub body, thinking a steel body may help (cassette has really chewed into aluminum body). Going over quick, rocky sections it sounds like the bike is falling apart, I've checked and rechecked everything, so maybe it's related to the freehub as well. Dunno WTF is going on but I need to replace the fork dust seals and change the oil. So I'll rip the bike apart (again), clean everything really well, lube and reassemble. Hopefully one or more of the sounds will go away for at least a ride.

Similar Threads

  1. Replacing bearings in Following
    By bobsaget in forum Evil Bikes
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 03-03-2016, 04:52 PM
  2. The One: play in links, what bearings?
    By chamaica in forum Canfield
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 06-24-2014, 02:42 PM
  3. hub play / loose bearings
    By sponger in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 06-09-2014, 03:56 PM
  4. replacing bearings on ASR or ASR-C??? WTF??
    By teamplayr in forum Yeti
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 04-29-2011, 06:40 AM
  5. replacing pivot bearings
    By happy_ending in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 04-18-2011, 12:25 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •