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  1. #1
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    PF30 BB with X9 2x10 Crank

    I have a Jet 9 RDO.

    How many of the black washers did folks use on the non-drive side?

    BB comes with two. Instructions show as many as five in the diagram?!?! Did you need any extra?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by WoodstockMTB View Post
    I have a Jet 9 RDO.

    How many of the black washers did folks use on the non-drive side?

    BB comes with two. Instructions show as many as five in the diagram?!?! Did you need any extra?
    I built my Jet 9 RDO with the same combination and didn't use any washers on the non-drive side. After puzzling over the instructions that came with the crank I downloaded updated instructions from SRAM's website and they made it clear that the only spacers needed was the one thick spacer on the drive side. Any play is taken out with the integrated pre-load adjuster attached to the non-drive side crank arm.

    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/SB...ranksets_0.pdf

  3. #3
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    Do I need to apply any grease to the exterior of the bearing cups that press into the frame? The directions don't seem to indicate any grease there, but I wanted to check.

  4. #4
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    What I meant to say actually was Carbon Past since this is a Carbon BB Shell

  5. #5
    Drinkin' the 29er KoolAid
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    I didn't use any carbon paste and I doubt it would provide any benefit in that application.

    Unlike a seatpost or handlebar where you install the part and then tighten a clamping mechanism trapping the paste in between the clamping surfaces, I imagine the process of pressing in the bottom bracket would just scrape off the paste.

  6. #6
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    Great. Thanks.

  7. #7
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    You probably got it figured out but I was running a x9 2x10 bb30 up until a few weeks ago. I installed the pf30 bb with no grease or paste...and only used the 2 dust covers on the outside of the bearings.... No spacers needed...but you will need to use the aluminum spacer on the drive side that came with the cranks. Don't worry about any of the parts for bb30 bearings that came with the crank...since your not running that bb.

  8. #8
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    Cool. thanks. I was about to install. but realized it will be a lot easier to do the cable routing first.

  9. #9
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    Yea...route the cables first...much easier with the cranks removed and also unbolting your shock. The cranks get in the way. Also, make sure you run the rear shifter to the non drive size headbadge opening. I had my shop do it for convenience purposes and he ran the rear shifter to the drive side headbadge hole, and same for the other side. Too much tension on the cables this way...and caused the 2 plastic headbadge ferrules to break.

    I called the shop out on this, and they called niner to ask the proper way....niner said it doesn't matter which way you do it....but seems strange to me...I'm guessing the shop just bs'ed me and wanted to charge me to reverse them. Should have done it myself!

    Good luck! You'll love that setup until you catch the mod bug...and give xx1 a try

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