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  1. #201
    kgraham11
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    Where is this?

    Quote Originally Posted by cant fix a flat View Post
    my niner air 9


  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by kgraham11 View Post
    Where is this?

    east fence at chino hills state park

  3. #203
    Don't Stop Spinnin'!
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    Air 9 in Moondust size Medium at 18.5 lbs.

    ~every end is a new beginning...

  4. #204
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    Here is my new to me Air9. 1/2 dozen rides and loving it! 21lbs
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Niner Single Speed Thread-image.jpg  


  5. #205
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    Question - currently running 32/20 on my SIR9. If I change to 35/17, will I need to adjust the EBB at all? (+3t front, -3t rear) I'm finding that I have to loosen the crank just to rotate the EBB. Thanks guys!

  6. #206
    4 Niners
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    Due to the physics of chain wrap, you will almost certainly have to move the ebb. The Shimano cranks load the ebb and make it very hard to rotate without loosening the crank (often impossible). The SRAM cranks with GXP bottom bracket design (which I think is a much better design) do not load across the bb and allow easy turning of the ebb. In my experience the GXP cranks spin longer than Shimano cranks when the chain is off and you spin the crank so that also indicates less friction.

    Just for comparison I have one XTR crank on a non-ebb bike and it has ceramic bottom bracket. If you spin it with chain off it goes about 4 revolutions. My GXP cranks with standard bearings go about 3.5 revolutions, my GXP crank with ceramic bearings goes 6 revolutions. Before I had ceramic bearings on the XTR crank it went about 2.5 revolutions.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  7. #207
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    I wonder if this is the reason that I've never had a creaking problem with the EBB? (biocentric I, not II)

    The crank is an extra clasping force... That sucks for trail side repairs. I'm going to start carrying my x-long 6mm Allen key - as well as my shimano plastic crank adapter.

    Not that I've ever had to adjust the ebb on the trail side, but you never know...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Niner Single Speed Thread-photo-3.jpg  

    Last edited by chrzis; 08-17-2013 at 10:13 PM.

  8. #208
    Mulleticious
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harryonaspot View Post
    Here is my new to me Air9. 1/2 dozen rides and loving it! 21lbs
    You must be down under?

  9. #209
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    No, just upside down in Massachussets!

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrzis View Post
    I wonder if this is the reason that I've never had a creaking problem with the EBB? (biocentric I, not II)

    The crank is an extra clasping force... That sucks for trail side repairs. I'm going to start carrying my x-long 6mm Allen key - as well as my shimano plastic crank adapter.
    I pulled apart my cranks & EBB today. I cleaned & re-Oatey'd my EBB. Now, I can rotate the EBB with the crank in place. It requires a little muscle, but it moves. Yesterday, I couldn't. I still think that the Shimano XT crank is a slight clasping force, but my EBB obviously needed a little love.

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harryonaspot View Post
    Here is my new to me Air9. 1/2 dozen rides and loving it! 21lbs
    NICE! Here it was on its maiden voyage:

    Official Niner Single Speed Thread

  12. #212
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    I've found that I'm changing my rear cog quite a lot. This of course means that I'm adjusting my EBB quite a bit too. Are there any 'overuse' issues with the Niner EBB?

  13. #213
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    I can't imagine wearing out an EBB. Maybe replace the bolt every 5 years if you think the multiple cycles might cause it to somehow weaken but I don't really see that either.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  14. #214
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    Just clean it good a couple times a year and you should be good. It's a very well-made product.

  15. #215
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    Biocentric I torque setting?

    I was a tad worried about my EBB bolt rounding out. The 6mm allen key felt sloppy in the head. So I went down to the bolt/fastener specialist with my Niner EBB bolt in hand.

    They happily sold me 2 replacement bolts (for $1.30) which are exactly the same, but, have a higher tensile strength.

    Upon refitting my EBB, I once again cleaned it up, re-Oatey'd it and installed it. I torqued my bolt up to 25 newton meters & hoped that it would stay put.

    Well, it hasn't. I only weigh 72kg (159 lbs) and certainly don't generated prodigious power! But it slipped again... sigh. I have ordered a Biocentric II, hopefully this will sort out my issues.

    How much torque do you use on your Biocentric I?

    (in the photo, you'll see a small red sticker next to where the white marker was. After a 25km MTB ride, it's slipped this far)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Niner Single Speed Thread-photo-1.jpg  

    Official Niner Single Speed Thread-photo-2.jpg  

    Official Niner Single Speed Thread-photo-3.jpg  


  16. #216
    kgraham11
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    Niner issued some additional instructions for the Biocentric I EBB to fix creaking and that set the torque to 190 in-lbs instead of the 130 that was marked on there. If you've gone to 220+ in-lbs, I would check your EBB for over-torque damage. I'll see if I can send this document to you.

    I also used Oateys on my Biocentric-I along with the instructions and never had a slip at 200lbs riding weight. I did upgrade to the Biocentric-II solely because of the addition of the 6mm adjustment hole. I did not like having to use my crankarm to tension the chain.

    Edit: Well, can't post a PDF file here and no easy way to send to you directly, but since you've ordered the bio-II, I'll hope that'll fix your problem. Good luck!

  17. #217
    4 Niners
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    Niner also recommended that you dish the bolt seat on the older Biocentrics that have the old torque spec on them and then go to 190 in-lbs. They also recommend slightly rounding the bottom bracket opening to match the contour of the biocentric. They have complete instructions on their site.
    I had similar problems and followed all the procedures and problem solved.
    Basically, the issues were that the shape of the bolt head is slightly curved and the place where the bolt seated in the Bio-centric was flat. If you torqued it to 190 inch-lbs it distorted the biocentric. This was a huge source of creaking. The other issue was that you can put a square edge on metal on the outside but not on an inside corner. In other words, the opening on the frame the edge is perfectly square and the area between the flange and the body of the biocentric has a more rounded shape. This prevents the maximum amount of surface contact and allows the biocentric to wiggle and move. The solution to this is to gently round the edge of the shell so that the two parts have a matching shape for a more tight fit. I used teflon tape per the instructions; don't know if Oaty's would work.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by kgraham11 View Post
    Niner issued some additional instructions for the Biocentric I EBB to fix creaking and that set the torque to 190 in-lbs instead of the 130 that was marked on there. If you've gone to 220+ in-lbs, I would check your EBB for over-torque damage. I'll see if I can send this document to you.
    Same here. I have never had issues with the BC I torqued to specs. And for what it's worth, I always wait a day or two for the Oatey's to set. Not sure if it's necessary, but again, never had issues with it personally.

  19. #219
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    My EBB is marked for 190 inch-lbs.

    Does this mean that no rounding is necessary? (The bolt sits flush)

    Thanks for the tips everyone !

  20. #220
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    I have never tried the Oatey's but I use teflon tape wrapped about two times around the bb and haven't had slipping issues with either the BC 1 or 2. The only thing I will say I've noticed is that if I have the chain stupid tight when I tension it then it will slip on the first few hard pedal strokes. I usually tighten the chain then back it off just a hair before torquing everything back down and it hasn't slipped at all.

    My super-scientific measurement technique is as follows: I take the hex wrench that I'm using to adjust the tension and push the chain up towards the chainstay. When it deflects about 1/2" that's usually in the sweet spot and I tighten it down. Hope that makes sense.

  21. #221
    4 Niners
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    The 190 inch lbs ones have the seat where the bolt goes beveled already, but you still have to prep the shell.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  22. #222
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    I have the Biocentric I and the Oateys didn't work for me. It never creaked but did slip. I switched to Carbogrip and it's been perfect for over 1 year now.

  23. #223
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    2013 sir 9 ss

    Official Niner Single Speed Thread-020.jpg

  24. #224
    my bike gained weight
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    I tore down my EMD9 in preparation for the ROS9 I ordered. When I noticed that most of what I had on the EMD9 wouldn't work on the ROS9, I found a used ONE9 frame on the eBay and made a single speed. I've been SS-curious for some time, almost building a Surly 1x1 a while back.

    I was surprised at first that the hills weren't the issue with the SS, but rather the flats. Of course it makes sense - I'd just not thunk of that. No problems with the EBB. I'm using Carbo Grip and so far so good.
    Riding this thing makes me feel weak while on the trails, but virile and mighty once I'm back home washing the mud off. It's going to be hard choosing between this and the ROS9 when I go out for a ride.

    So here's the ONE9. 32x21, and I imagine I'll go to 20 by next Spring.

    Official Niner Single Speed Thread-130917_one9_006.jpg
    Official Niner Single Speed Thread-130917_one9_015.jpg
    Official Niner Single Speed Thread-130918_one9-wissahickon_042.jpg

  25. #225
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    Yea I keep telling Niner they need to make an ALL9. 135 rear, tapered steer, Biocentric II. You could use all your old equipment and run geared, ss, etc. In other words, an Air9 Carbon with an EBB. They claim the Air9C is for those that are upgrading, but many will have to buy a new crank or an adapter to make it work. Make an All9 and charge $100 more for the EBB and it would be way more appealing in my opinion.

    For most people that I know, the $1500 frame is a stretch to upgrade if they could spend $1600 and use every current component (except possibly the headset) they would be way more likely to do it.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

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