• 06-09-2013
    kgraham11
    Where is this?

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by cant fix a flat View Post
    my niner air 9


  • 06-12-2013
    cant fix a flat
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kgraham11 View Post
    Where is this?


    east fence at chino hills state park
  • 06-28-2013
    ReD_tomato
    Air 9 in Moondust size Medium at 18.5 lbs.

  • 08-17-2013
    Harryonaspot
    1 Attachment(s)
    Here is my new to me Air9. 1/2 dozen rides and loving it! 21lbs
  • 08-17-2013
    chrzis
    Question - currently running 32/20 on my SIR9. If I change to 35/17, will I need to adjust the EBB at all? (+3t front, -3t rear) I'm finding that I have to loosen the crank just to rotate the EBB. Thanks guys!
  • 08-17-2013
    yourdaguy
    Due to the physics of chain wrap, you will almost certainly have to move the ebb. The Shimano cranks load the ebb and make it very hard to rotate without loosening the crank (often impossible). The SRAM cranks with GXP bottom bracket design (which I think is a much better design) do not load across the bb and allow easy turning of the ebb. In my experience the GXP cranks spin longer than Shimano cranks when the chain is off and you spin the crank so that also indicates less friction.

    Just for comparison I have one XTR crank on a non-ebb bike and it has ceramic bottom bracket. If you spin it with chain off it goes about 4 revolutions. My GXP cranks with standard bearings go about 3.5 revolutions, my GXP crank with ceramic bearings goes 6 revolutions. Before I had ceramic bearings on the XTR crank it went about 2.5 revolutions.
  • 08-17-2013
    chrzis
    1 Attachment(s)
    I wonder if this is the reason that I've never had a creaking problem with the EBB? (biocentric I, not II)

    The crank is an extra clasping force... That sucks for trail side repairs. I'm going to start carrying my x-long 6mm Allen key - as well as my shimano plastic crank adapter.

    Not that I've ever had to adjust the ebb on the trail side, but you never know...
  • 08-18-2013
    BigwheelsRbest
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Harryonaspot View Post
    Here is my new to me Air9. 1/2 dozen rides and loving it! 21lbs

    You must be down under? ;)
  • 08-18-2013
    Harryonaspot
    No, just upside down in Massachussets!
  • 08-20-2013
    chrzis
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by chrzis View Post
    I wonder if this is the reason that I've never had a creaking problem with the EBB? (biocentric I, not II)

    The crank is an extra clasping force... That sucks for trail side repairs. I'm going to start carrying my x-long 6mm Allen key - as well as my shimano plastic crank adapter.

    I pulled apart my cranks & EBB today. I cleaned & re-Oatey'd my EBB. Now, I can rotate the EBB with the crank in place. It requires a little muscle, but it moves. Yesterday, I couldn't. I still think that the Shimano XT crank is a slight clasping force, but my EBB obviously needed a little love.
  • 08-23-2013
    jason745
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Harryonaspot View Post
    Here is my new to me Air9. 1/2 dozen rides and loving it! 21lbs

    NICE! Here it was on its maiden voyage:

    http://forums.mtbr.com/niner-bikes/o...ml#post9582505
  • 08-27-2013
    chrzis
    I've found that I'm changing my rear cog quite a lot. This of course means that I'm adjusting my EBB quite a bit too. Are there any 'overuse' issues with the Niner EBB?
  • 08-27-2013
    yourdaguy
    I can't imagine wearing out an EBB. Maybe replace the bolt every 5 years if you think the multiple cycles might cause it to somehow weaken but I don't really see that either.
  • 08-27-2013
    phsycle
    Just clean it good a couple times a year and you should be good. It's a very well-made product.
  • 09-04-2013
    chrzis
    3 Attachment(s)
    Biocentric I torque setting?
    I was a tad worried about my EBB bolt rounding out. The 6mm allen key felt sloppy in the head. So I went down to the bolt/fastener specialist with my Niner EBB bolt in hand.

    They happily sold me 2 replacement bolts (for $1.30) which are exactly the same, but, have a higher tensile strength.

    Upon refitting my EBB, I once again cleaned it up, re-Oatey'd it and installed it. I torqued my bolt up to 25 newton meters & hoped that it would stay put.

    Well, it hasn't. I only weigh 72kg (159 lbs) and certainly don't generated prodigious power! But it slipped again... sigh. I have ordered a Biocentric II, hopefully this will sort out my issues.

    How much torque do you use on your Biocentric I?

    (in the photo, you'll see a small red sticker next to where the white marker was. After a 25km MTB ride, it's slipped this far)
  • 09-04-2013
    kgraham11
    Niner issued some additional instructions for the Biocentric I EBB to fix creaking and that set the torque to 190 in-lbs instead of the 130 that was marked on there. If you've gone to 220+ in-lbs, I would check your EBB for over-torque damage. I'll see if I can send this document to you.

    I also used Oateys on my Biocentric-I along with the instructions and never had a slip at 200lbs riding weight. I did upgrade to the Biocentric-II solely because of the addition of the 6mm adjustment hole. I did not like having to use my crankarm to tension the chain.

    Edit: Well, can't post a PDF file here and no easy way to send to you directly, but since you've ordered the bio-II, I'll hope that'll fix your problem. Good luck!
  • 09-04-2013
    yourdaguy
    Niner also recommended that you dish the bolt seat on the older Biocentrics that have the old torque spec on them and then go to 190 in-lbs. They also recommend slightly rounding the bottom bracket opening to match the contour of the biocentric. They have complete instructions on their site.
    I had similar problems and followed all the procedures and problem solved.
    Basically, the issues were that the shape of the bolt head is slightly curved and the place where the bolt seated in the Bio-centric was flat. If you torqued it to 190 inch-lbs it distorted the biocentric. This was a huge source of creaking. The other issue was that you can put a square edge on metal on the outside but not on an inside corner. In other words, the opening on the frame the edge is perfectly square and the area between the flange and the body of the biocentric has a more rounded shape. This prevents the maximum amount of surface contact and allows the biocentric to wiggle and move. The solution to this is to gently round the edge of the shell so that the two parts have a matching shape for a more tight fit. I used teflon tape per the instructions; don't know if Oaty's would work.
  • 09-04-2013
    phsycle
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kgraham11 View Post
    Niner issued some additional instructions for the Biocentric I EBB to fix creaking and that set the torque to 190 in-lbs instead of the 130 that was marked on there. If you've gone to 220+ in-lbs, I would check your EBB for over-torque damage. I'll see if I can send this document to you.

    Same here. I have never had issues with the BC I torqued to specs. And for what it's worth, I always wait a day or two for the Oatey's to set. Not sure if it's necessary, but again, never had issues with it personally.
  • 09-04-2013
    chrzis
    My EBB is marked for 190 inch-lbs.

    Does this mean that no rounding is necessary? (The bolt sits flush)

    Thanks for the tips everyone !
  • 09-04-2013
    7daysaweek
    I have never tried the Oatey's but I use teflon tape wrapped about two times around the bb and haven't had slipping issues with either the BC 1 or 2. The only thing I will say I've noticed is that if I have the chain stupid tight when I tension it then it will slip on the first few hard pedal strokes. I usually tighten the chain then back it off just a hair before torquing everything back down and it hasn't slipped at all.

    My super-scientific measurement technique is as follows: I take the hex wrench that I'm using to adjust the tension and push the chain up towards the chainstay. When it deflects about 1/2" that's usually in the sweet spot and I tighten it down. Hope that makes sense.
  • 09-04-2013
    yourdaguy
    The 190 inch lbs ones have the seat where the bolt goes beveled already, but you still have to prep the shell.
  • 09-04-2013
    KirkC
    I have the Biocentric I and the Oateys didn't work for me. It never creaked but did slip. I switched to Carbogrip and it's been perfect for over 1 year now.
  • 09-11-2013
    Strike the primer
    1 Attachment(s)
    2013 sir 9 ss
  • 10-08-2013
    MrBiggs
    3 Attachment(s)
    I tore down my EMD9 in preparation for the ROS9 I ordered. When I noticed that most of what I had on the EMD9 wouldn't work on the ROS9, I found a used ONE9 frame on the eBay and made a single speed. I've been SS-curious for some time, almost building a Surly 1x1 a while back.

    I was surprised at first that the hills weren't the issue with the SS, but rather the flats. Of course it makes sense - I'd just not thunk of that. No problems with the EBB. I'm using Carbo Grip and so far so good.
    Riding this thing makes me feel weak while on the trails, but virile and mighty once I'm back home washing the mud off. It's going to be hard choosing between this and the ROS9 when I go out for a ride.

    So here's the ONE9. 32x21, and I imagine I'll go to 20 by next Spring.

    Attachment 837730
    Attachment 837731
    Attachment 837732
  • 10-09-2013
    yourdaguy
    Yea I keep telling Niner they need to make an ALL9. 135 rear, tapered steer, Biocentric II. You could use all your old equipment and run geared, ss, etc. In other words, an Air9 Carbon with an EBB. They claim the Air9C is for those that are upgrading, but many will have to buy a new crank or an adapter to make it work. Make an All9 and charge $100 more for the EBB and it would be way more appealing in my opinion.

    For most people that I know, the $1500 frame is a stretch to upgrade if they could spend $1600 and use every current component (except possibly the headset) they would be way more likely to do it.
  • 10-09-2013
    BigwheelsRbest
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Yea I keep telling Niner they need to make an ALL9. 135 rear, tapered steer, Biocentric II. You could use all your old equipment and run geared, ss, etc. In other words, an Air9 Carbon with an EBB. They claim the Air9C is for those that are upgrading, but many will have to buy a new crank or an adapter to make it work. Make an All9 and charge $100 more for the EBB and it would be way more appealing in my opinion.

    For most people that I know, the $1500 frame is a stretch to upgrade if they could spend $1600 and use every current component (except possibly the headset) they would be way more likely to do it.

    I'm with you on that one. I'd be ahead in the queue...
  • 10-09-2013
    yourdaguy
    Hey! I get the first one I had the idea even for the name. You can be 2nd in line, all you have to do is convince Chris Sugai to build it. I don't think 2 firm customers would do it. Others would have to be interested too.

    That said; it wouldn't take much to use the existing Air9 Carbon and enlarge the hole from PF30 to EBB size. Not much engineering would have to take place. The main cost would be new molds so there would need to be a reasonable amount of demand.

    What would be really cool about that setup is that if you had a 1x11 by changing the chain, rear tire/wheel and derailleur hanger part you could convert from 11 speed to SS in about 5 minutes. (you could use the cable disconnects they use on S&S tandems to remove the RD with the der hanger and just leave the shifter on the bar). You wouldn't even have to move the ebb if it was adjusted to your setup last time. This would be awesome for someone who rode SS a lot, but wanted to do some insane steep stuff every now an then.
  • 10-14-2013
    J3SSEB
    My air 9 C is geared at the moment, but I miss ss too much. I just ordered a bio-centric II so...
  • 10-14-2013
    hardmtnbiker
    New Niner frame
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Hey! I get the first one I had the idea even for the name. You can be 2nd in line, all you have to do is convince Chris Sugai to build it. I don't think 2 firm customers would do it. Others would have to be interested too.

    That said; it wouldn't take much to use the existing Air9 Carbon and enlarge the hole from PF30 to EBB size. Not much engineering would have to take place. The main cost would be new molds so there would need to be a reasonable amount of demand.

    What would be really cool about that setup is that if you had a 1x11 by changing the chain, rear tire/wheel and derailleur hanger part you could convert from 11 speed to SS in about 5 minutes. (you could use the cable disconnects they use on S&S tandems to remove the RD with the der hanger and just leave the shifter on the bar). You wouldn't even have to move the ebb if it was adjusted to your setup last time. This would be awesome for someone who rode SS a lot, but wanted to do some insane steep stuff every now an then.

    That's a great idea but I'd suggest a 142x12 rear dropout. My new SS Sir9 rides way better than my older one. Having a SS specific Hadley hub and the 142x12 axle just makes it a super solid back end.
  • 10-14-2013
    yourdaguy
    I would totally agree that on a steel frame there could be an advantage to 142x12. But I have never been able to see any advantage on a properly designed carbon frame and in fact I see almost no way that the 142x12 overall would not be heavier than the standard QR setup. EDIT on a carbon frame.
  • 10-14-2013
    yourdaguy
    Another data point. I ran my first gen Sir9 as a dingle speed for most of it's life and could let the chain get very loose without problems. I am having trouble running my 2nd gen Sir9 dingle speed because even if the big small is somewhat over tight, the small big will still derail within a mile when I hit hills. The only explanation I can figure is that the chainstays are flexing lots more. I never felt the first gen rode poorly, but I guess Niner loosened up the 2nd gen even more so I can see on a steel frame that you could keep that looseness and increase the bracing angle with 142, but I have never had this type of problem with an aluminum or carbon frame.
    Along the same line, I know a guy with a Kona Unit that is very powerful and young and he can't keep his chain on it when he gets into hills. This would also be a frame that could benefit from 142x12 but is also a steel frame SS.
  • 10-14-2013
    hardmtnbiker
    IMO QRs are not for mtn bikes. Of my bikes that aren't 142x12, I have a Hadley hubs with the 135x10 TA. It's just a better set up.
  • 10-14-2013
    Cools
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Hey! I get the first one I had the idea even for the name. You can be 2nd in line, all you have to do is convince Chris Sugai to build it. I don't think 2 firm customers would do it. Others would have to be interested too.

    That said; it wouldn't take much to use the existing Air9 Carbon and enlarge the hole from PF30 to EBB size. Not much engineering would have to take place. The main cost would be new molds so there would need to be a reasonable amount of demand.

    What would be really cool about that setup is that if you had a 1x11 by changing the chain, rear tire/wheel and derailleur hanger part you could convert from 11 speed to SS in about 5 minutes. (you could use the cable disconnects they use on S&S tandems to remove the RD with the der hanger and just leave the shifter on the bar). You wouldn't even have to move the ebb if it was adjusted to your setup last time. This would be awesome for someone who rode SS a lot, but wanted to do some insane steep stuff every now an then.

    The idea of being able to go geared at some point in the future was one of the reasons I went with the original A9C (CYA). My bike is still SS, but I do think about trying geared sometimes though reading about all the issues people have had over the years with the internal cable routing makes me cringe a little. I would've been more than fine if the "aesthetics" of the bike were compromised a little by an external option for routing. :)
  • 10-14-2013
    yourdaguy
    My A9C is also SS and I bought it with the idea that when I get to be really old (I am just about 60 now) I might need to convert to geared. That is another reason I am hoping for an ALL9. I can start out SS and when I am 85 or so, convert to geared.
  • 10-17-2013
    LuckyCharm4x4
    My first attempt at SS:

  • 10-17-2013
    jabrabu
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hardmtnbiker View Post
    That's a great idea but I'd suggest a 142x12 rear dropout. My new SS Sir9 rides way better than my older one. Having a SS specific Hadley hub and the 142x12 axle just makes it a super solid back end.

    I converted my rear hub to a 135x10 thru axle, which gets you most of the way to 142x12 stiffness.
  • 10-17-2013
    yourdaguy
    Yea I have a 135x10 on my only steel bike and it is way good enough without all the compatibility issues of 142x12.
  • 10-17-2013
    takisawa2
    Quote:

    you could convert from 11 speed to SS in about 5 minutes. (you could use the cable disconnects they use on S&S tandems to remove the RD with the der hanger and just leave the shifter on the bar).
    I do this, but just leave the shifter mount on all the time. Shifter body, cable & mech all come off in one peice in a few mins. Chain off. Gear assy off. Wheel swap. Longer chain on. Done.
  • 10-25-2013
    chrzis
    Just finished installing my EBB version 2 & new Niner carbon bar.

    Looking forward to ignoring my EBB!!!
  • 10-30-2013
    J3SSEB
    3 Attachment(s)
  • 10-30-2013
    Harryonaspot
    That is beautiful !
  • 10-30-2013
    quelocotony
    Quote:

    Man, that is some serious Niner Bike Porn.

    Curious to know where you found those tang (orange) spokes. I've been wanting to build up a a wheelset with Orange Spokes for my Tang Jet 9.
  • 10-30-2013
    J3SSEB
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by quelocotony View Post
    Man, that is some serious Niner Bike Porn.

    Curious to know where you found those tang (orange) spokes. I've been wanting to build up a a wheelset with Orange Spokes for my Tang Jet 9.

    Thanks man. I'm really happy with my bike. The wheels are Industry 9 Torch wheels. They have different colored spokes and hubs to choose from.
  • 11-06-2013
    hardmtnbiker
    135X10 is a must for 135mm rear dropouts! Don't bother with old fashion QR's on a mtn-bike unless you just have to have the cool anodized colors or your trying to stay retro. It's just not as solid.
  • 11-09-2013
    ExhaustPipe
    1 Attachment(s)
  • 11-09-2013
    muzzanic
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ExhaustPipe View Post

    Nice bike.
  • 11-16-2013
    Cools
    Sexy thing! Congrats!
  • 11-28-2013
    The STIG
    heres my moondust replacement...for my cracked tang a9c. i really miss the orange

  • 11-28-2013
    yourdaguy
    Where did it crack?
  • 11-28-2013
    The STIG
    just below seat post collar, above the seatstays. hard to see here, but about 1/2" above the red 9er decal