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  1. #201
    kgraham11
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    Where is this?

    Quote Originally Posted by cant fix a flat View Post
    my niner air 9


  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by kgraham11 View Post
    Where is this?

    east fence at chino hills state park

  3. #203
    Don't Stop Spinnin'!
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    Air 9 in Moondust size Medium at 18.5 lbs.

    ~every end is a new beginning...

  4. #204
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    Here is my new to me Air9. 1/2 dozen rides and loving it! 21lbs
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Niner Single Speed Thread-image.jpg  


  5. #205
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    Question - currently running 32/20 on my SIR9. If I change to 35/17, will I need to adjust the EBB at all? (+3t front, -3t rear) I'm finding that I have to loosen the crank just to rotate the EBB. Thanks guys!

  6. #206
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    Due to the physics of chain wrap, you will almost certainly have to move the ebb. The Shimano cranks load the ebb and make it very hard to rotate without loosening the crank (often impossible). The SRAM cranks with GXP bottom bracket design (which I think is a much better design) do not load across the bb and allow easy turning of the ebb. In my experience the GXP cranks spin longer than Shimano cranks when the chain is off and you spin the crank so that also indicates less friction.

    Just for comparison I have one XTR crank on a non-ebb bike and it has ceramic bottom bracket. If you spin it with chain off it goes about 4 revolutions. My GXP cranks with standard bearings go about 3.5 revolutions, my GXP crank with ceramic bearings goes 6 revolutions. Before I had ceramic bearings on the XTR crank it went about 2.5 revolutions.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  7. #207
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    I wonder if this is the reason that I've never had a creaking problem with the EBB? (biocentric I, not II)

    The crank is an extra clasping force... That sucks for trail side repairs. I'm going to start carrying my x-long 6mm Allen key - as well as my shimano plastic crank adapter.

    Not that I've ever had to adjust the ebb on the trail side, but you never know...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Niner Single Speed Thread-photo-3.jpg  

    Last edited by chrzis; 08-17-2013 at 10:13 PM.

  8. #208
    Mulleticious
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harryonaspot View Post
    Here is my new to me Air9. 1/2 dozen rides and loving it! 21lbs
    You must be down under?

  9. #209
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    No, just upside down in Massachussets!

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrzis View Post
    I wonder if this is the reason that I've never had a creaking problem with the EBB? (biocentric I, not II)

    The crank is an extra clasping force... That sucks for trail side repairs. I'm going to start carrying my x-long 6mm Allen key - as well as my shimano plastic crank adapter.
    I pulled apart my cranks & EBB today. I cleaned & re-Oatey'd my EBB. Now, I can rotate the EBB with the crank in place. It requires a little muscle, but it moves. Yesterday, I couldn't. I still think that the Shimano XT crank is a slight clasping force, but my EBB obviously needed a little love.

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harryonaspot View Post
    Here is my new to me Air9. 1/2 dozen rides and loving it! 21lbs
    NICE! Here it was on its maiden voyage:

    Official Niner Single Speed Thread

  12. #212
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    I've found that I'm changing my rear cog quite a lot. This of course means that I'm adjusting my EBB quite a bit too. Are there any 'overuse' issues with the Niner EBB?

  13. #213
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    I can't imagine wearing out an EBB. Maybe replace the bolt every 5 years if you think the multiple cycles might cause it to somehow weaken but I don't really see that either.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  14. #214
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    Just clean it good a couple times a year and you should be good. It's a very well-made product.

  15. #215
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    Biocentric I torque setting?

    I was a tad worried about my EBB bolt rounding out. The 6mm allen key felt sloppy in the head. So I went down to the bolt/fastener specialist with my Niner EBB bolt in hand.

    They happily sold me 2 replacement bolts (for $1.30) which are exactly the same, but, have a higher tensile strength.

    Upon refitting my EBB, I once again cleaned it up, re-Oatey'd it and installed it. I torqued my bolt up to 25 newton meters & hoped that it would stay put.

    Well, it hasn't. I only weigh 72kg (159 lbs) and certainly don't generated prodigious power! But it slipped again... sigh. I have ordered a Biocentric II, hopefully this will sort out my issues.

    How much torque do you use on your Biocentric I?

    (in the photo, you'll see a small red sticker next to where the white marker was. After a 25km MTB ride, it's slipped this far)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Niner Single Speed Thread-photo-1.jpg  

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  16. #216
    kgraham11
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    Niner issued some additional instructions for the Biocentric I EBB to fix creaking and that set the torque to 190 in-lbs instead of the 130 that was marked on there. If you've gone to 220+ in-lbs, I would check your EBB for over-torque damage. I'll see if I can send this document to you.

    I also used Oateys on my Biocentric-I along with the instructions and never had a slip at 200lbs riding weight. I did upgrade to the Biocentric-II solely because of the addition of the 6mm adjustment hole. I did not like having to use my crankarm to tension the chain.

    Edit: Well, can't post a PDF file here and no easy way to send to you directly, but since you've ordered the bio-II, I'll hope that'll fix your problem. Good luck!

  17. #217
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    Niner also recommended that you dish the bolt seat on the older Biocentrics that have the old torque spec on them and then go to 190 in-lbs. They also recommend slightly rounding the bottom bracket opening to match the contour of the biocentric. They have complete instructions on their site.
    I had similar problems and followed all the procedures and problem solved.
    Basically, the issues were that the shape of the bolt head is slightly curved and the place where the bolt seated in the Bio-centric was flat. If you torqued it to 190 inch-lbs it distorted the biocentric. This was a huge source of creaking. The other issue was that you can put a square edge on metal on the outside but not on an inside corner. In other words, the opening on the frame the edge is perfectly square and the area between the flange and the body of the biocentric has a more rounded shape. This prevents the maximum amount of surface contact and allows the biocentric to wiggle and move. The solution to this is to gently round the edge of the shell so that the two parts have a matching shape for a more tight fit. I used teflon tape per the instructions; don't know if Oaty's would work.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by kgraham11 View Post
    Niner issued some additional instructions for the Biocentric I EBB to fix creaking and that set the torque to 190 in-lbs instead of the 130 that was marked on there. If you've gone to 220+ in-lbs, I would check your EBB for over-torque damage. I'll see if I can send this document to you.
    Same here. I have never had issues with the BC I torqued to specs. And for what it's worth, I always wait a day or two for the Oatey's to set. Not sure if it's necessary, but again, never had issues with it personally.

  19. #219
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    My EBB is marked for 190 inch-lbs.

    Does this mean that no rounding is necessary? (The bolt sits flush)

    Thanks for the tips everyone !

  20. #220
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    I have never tried the Oatey's but I use teflon tape wrapped about two times around the bb and haven't had slipping issues with either the BC 1 or 2. The only thing I will say I've noticed is that if I have the chain stupid tight when I tension it then it will slip on the first few hard pedal strokes. I usually tighten the chain then back it off just a hair before torquing everything back down and it hasn't slipped at all.

    My super-scientific measurement technique is as follows: I take the hex wrench that I'm using to adjust the tension and push the chain up towards the chainstay. When it deflects about 1/2" that's usually in the sweet spot and I tighten it down. Hope that makes sense.

  21. #221
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    The 190 inch lbs ones have the seat where the bolt goes beveled already, but you still have to prep the shell.
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  22. #222
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    I have the Biocentric I and the Oateys didn't work for me. It never creaked but did slip. I switched to Carbogrip and it's been perfect for over 1 year now.

  23. #223
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    2013 sir 9 ss

    Official Niner Single Speed Thread-020.jpg

  24. #224
    my bike gained weight
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    I tore down my EMD9 in preparation for the ROS9 I ordered. When I noticed that most of what I had on the EMD9 wouldn't work on the ROS9, I found a used ONE9 frame on the eBay and made a single speed. I've been SS-curious for some time, almost building a Surly 1x1 a while back.

    I was surprised at first that the hills weren't the issue with the SS, but rather the flats. Of course it makes sense - I'd just not thunk of that. No problems with the EBB. I'm using Carbo Grip and so far so good.
    Riding this thing makes me feel weak while on the trails, but virile and mighty once I'm back home washing the mud off. It's going to be hard choosing between this and the ROS9 when I go out for a ride.

    So here's the ONE9. 32x21, and I imagine I'll go to 20 by next Spring.

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  25. #225
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    Yea I keep telling Niner they need to make an ALL9. 135 rear, tapered steer, Biocentric II. You could use all your old equipment and run geared, ss, etc. In other words, an Air9 Carbon with an EBB. They claim the Air9C is for those that are upgrading, but many will have to buy a new crank or an adapter to make it work. Make an All9 and charge $100 more for the EBB and it would be way more appealing in my opinion.

    For most people that I know, the $1500 frame is a stretch to upgrade if they could spend $1600 and use every current component (except possibly the headset) they would be way more likely to do it.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  26. #226
    Mulleticious
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Yea I keep telling Niner they need to make an ALL9. 135 rear, tapered steer, Biocentric II. You could use all your old equipment and run geared, ss, etc. In other words, an Air9 Carbon with an EBB. They claim the Air9C is for those that are upgrading, but many will have to buy a new crank or an adapter to make it work. Make an All9 and charge $100 more for the EBB and it would be way more appealing in my opinion.

    For most people that I know, the $1500 frame is a stretch to upgrade if they could spend $1600 and use every current component (except possibly the headset) they would be way more likely to do it.
    I'm with you on that one. I'd be ahead in the queue...

  27. #227
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    Hey! I get the first one I had the idea even for the name. You can be 2nd in line, all you have to do is convince Chris Sugai to build it. I don't think 2 firm customers would do it. Others would have to be interested too.

    That said; it wouldn't take much to use the existing Air9 Carbon and enlarge the hole from PF30 to EBB size. Not much engineering would have to take place. The main cost would be new molds so there would need to be a reasonable amount of demand.

    What would be really cool about that setup is that if you had a 1x11 by changing the chain, rear tire/wheel and derailleur hanger part you could convert from 11 speed to SS in about 5 minutes. (you could use the cable disconnects they use on S&S tandems to remove the RD with the der hanger and just leave the shifter on the bar). You wouldn't even have to move the ebb if it was adjusted to your setup last time. This would be awesome for someone who rode SS a lot, but wanted to do some insane steep stuff every now an then.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  28. #228
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    My air 9 C is geared at the moment, but I miss ss too much. I just ordered a bio-centric II so...
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  29. #229
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    New Niner frame

    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Hey! I get the first one I had the idea even for the name. You can be 2nd in line, all you have to do is convince Chris Sugai to build it. I don't think 2 firm customers would do it. Others would have to be interested too.

    That said; it wouldn't take much to use the existing Air9 Carbon and enlarge the hole from PF30 to EBB size. Not much engineering would have to take place. The main cost would be new molds so there would need to be a reasonable amount of demand.

    What would be really cool about that setup is that if you had a 1x11 by changing the chain, rear tire/wheel and derailleur hanger part you could convert from 11 speed to SS in about 5 minutes. (you could use the cable disconnects they use on S&S tandems to remove the RD with the der hanger and just leave the shifter on the bar). You wouldn't even have to move the ebb if it was adjusted to your setup last time. This would be awesome for someone who rode SS a lot, but wanted to do some insane steep stuff every now an then.
    That's a great idea but I'd suggest a 142x12 rear dropout. My new SS Sir9 rides way better than my older one. Having a SS specific Hadley hub and the 142x12 axle just makes it a super solid back end.
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  30. #230
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    I would totally agree that on a steel frame there could be an advantage to 142x12. But I have never been able to see any advantage on a properly designed carbon frame and in fact I see almost no way that the 142x12 overall would not be heavier than the standard QR setup. EDIT on a carbon frame.
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  31. #231
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    Another data point. I ran my first gen Sir9 as a dingle speed for most of it's life and could let the chain get very loose without problems. I am having trouble running my 2nd gen Sir9 dingle speed because even if the big small is somewhat over tight, the small big will still derail within a mile when I hit hills. The only explanation I can figure is that the chainstays are flexing lots more. I never felt the first gen rode poorly, but I guess Niner loosened up the 2nd gen even more so I can see on a steel frame that you could keep that looseness and increase the bracing angle with 142, but I have never had this type of problem with an aluminum or carbon frame.
    Along the same line, I know a guy with a Kona Unit that is very powerful and young and he can't keep his chain on it when he gets into hills. This would also be a frame that could benefit from 142x12 but is also a steel frame SS.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  32. #232
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    IMO QRs are not for mtn bikes. Of my bikes that aren't 142x12, I have a Hadley hubs with the 135x10 TA. It's just a better set up.
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  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Hey! I get the first one I had the idea even for the name. You can be 2nd in line, all you have to do is convince Chris Sugai to build it. I don't think 2 firm customers would do it. Others would have to be interested too.

    That said; it wouldn't take much to use the existing Air9 Carbon and enlarge the hole from PF30 to EBB size. Not much engineering would have to take place. The main cost would be new molds so there would need to be a reasonable amount of demand.

    What would be really cool about that setup is that if you had a 1x11 by changing the chain, rear tire/wheel and derailleur hanger part you could convert from 11 speed to SS in about 5 minutes. (you could use the cable disconnects they use on S&S tandems to remove the RD with the der hanger and just leave the shifter on the bar). You wouldn't even have to move the ebb if it was adjusted to your setup last time. This would be awesome for someone who rode SS a lot, but wanted to do some insane steep stuff every now an then.
    The idea of being able to go geared at some point in the future was one of the reasons I went with the original A9C (CYA). My bike is still SS, but I do think about trying geared sometimes though reading about all the issues people have had over the years with the internal cable routing makes me cringe a little. I would've been more than fine if the "aesthetics" of the bike were compromised a little by an external option for routing.

  34. #234
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    My A9C is also SS and I bought it with the idea that when I get to be really old (I am just about 60 now) I might need to convert to geared. That is another reason I am hoping for an ALL9. I can start out SS and when I am 85 or so, convert to geared.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  35. #235
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    My first attempt at SS:


  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardmtnbiker View Post
    That's a great idea but I'd suggest a 142x12 rear dropout. My new SS Sir9 rides way better than my older one. Having a SS specific Hadley hub and the 142x12 axle just makes it a super solid back end.
    I converted my rear hub to a 135x10 thru axle, which gets you most of the way to 142x12 stiffness.

  37. #237
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    Yea I have a 135x10 on my only steel bike and it is way good enough without all the compatibility issues of 142x12.
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  38. #238
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    you could convert from 11 speed to SS in about 5 minutes. (you could use the cable disconnects they use on S&S tandems to remove the RD with the der hanger and just leave the shifter on the bar).
    I do this, but just leave the shifter mount on all the time. Shifter body, cable & mech all come off in one peice in a few mins. Chain off. Gear assy off. Wheel swap. Longer chain on. Done.

  39. #239
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    Just finished installing my EBB version 2 & new Niner carbon bar.

    Looking forward to ignoring my EBB!!!

  40. #240
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    Official Niner Single Speed Thread-img_0159_zps94071050.jpg

    Official Niner Single Speed Thread-img_0164_zps67cd1d52.jpg

    Official Niner Single Speed Thread-img_0167_zps82f2b0c4.jpg
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  41. #241
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    That is beautiful !

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by J3SSEB View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Man, that is some serious Niner Bike Porn.

    Curious to know where you found those tang (orange) spokes. I've been wanting to build up a a wheelset with Orange Spokes for my Tang Jet 9.

  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by quelocotony View Post
    Man, that is some serious Niner Bike Porn.

    Curious to know where you found those tang (orange) spokes. I've been wanting to build up a a wheelset with Orange Spokes for my Tang Jet 9.
    Thanks man. I'm really happy with my bike. The wheels are Industry 9 Torch wheels. They have different colored spokes and hubs to choose from.
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  44. #244
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    135X10 is a must for 135mm rear dropouts! Don't bother with old fashion QR's on a mtn-bike unless you just have to have the cool anodized colors or your trying to stay retro. It's just not as solid.
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  45. #245
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    Official Niner Single Speed Thread-20131108_162352.jpg

  46. #246
    Carbon & Ti rule
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExhaustPipe View Post
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    Nice bike.
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  47. #247
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    Sexy thing! Congrats!

  48. #248
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    heres my moondust replacement...for my cracked tang a9c. i really miss the orange

    Last edited by The STIG; 11-28-2013 at 03:09 PM.

  49. #249
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    Where did it crack?
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  50. #250
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    just below seat post collar, above the seatstays. hard to see here, but about 1/2" above the red 9er decal


  51. #251
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    In the area of the slit for the seatpost collar?
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  52. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExhaustPipe View Post
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    Got to get me one of those.

  53. #253
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    like i said, its hard to see in that pic. it was about 1-1/2" long crack

  54. #254
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    That is an unusual location. It must have been some kind of void during manufacturing.
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  55. #255
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    ive seen some that cracked on the front side, this was the exact same but on the back

  56. #256
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    Yea, the stress is greater on the front as the seatpost would tend to lever back and there would be pulling on the front, but the rear should be in compression and because of the stays, have a lot of material. To crack there, it would almost certainly have to be a manufacturing problem.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  57. #257
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    I would like a newer SS set up for next season. I currently ride a Trek rig SS. Next season will be my third year of SS riding and racing. The one 9 looks interesting but from what I am reading you can use the, Air 9 or others. I have not interest in making the bike a geared bike. I have a set of I29 rims with SS hadley hubs. I think I will need new cranks, seat post, forks, headset. What other expenses would I incur switching to the niner frame? I am a little worried about the Carbon frame too? We are mostly flat in the midwest but I am aggressive and 190. Any thoughts? THanks,TJ

  58. #258
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  59. #259
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    Niner have made an installation vid for their EBB. But... no Oatey's. Clean install?

  60. #260
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    KimWoodsrider: the newest Niner frames have the dreaded 142 rear spacing. If you hurry, you can get an Air 9 Carbon (no longer in production) for $899 at Competitive Cyclist. This is the same frame that the SS world champion rode last year and the list price on the frame is $1899. Be sure to get the biocentric BB also since the frame comes with the hole only.
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  61. #261
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    Re: Official Niner Single Speed Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by chris1911 View Post
    Sweet!

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  62. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    KimWoodsrider: the newest Niner frames have the dreaded 142 rear spacing. If you hurry, you can get an Air 9 Carbon (no longer in production) for $899 at Competitive Cyclist. This is the same frame that the SS world champion rode last year and the list price on the frame is $1899. Be sure to get the biocentric BB also since the frame comes with the hole only.

    Thanks for the heads up on the air 9 C. I am almost ready to pull the trigger. I am so tired of bolts slipping, chain slack issue and tightening after every ride on my rig. Does any other bike manufacturer use the EBB 2 in their frame design? Or is this only used by niner? I think the ebb seems like a great idea and the second version appears to work well for alot of riders? Also, I have never rode a carbon bike! For the extra cost of carbon over steel or aluminum, how much will the frame soak up the trail trash with a fox fork? not looking for miracles. Thanks. Lets say money it not an issue.

  63. #263
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    hmm clearance Air 9 Carbon, or highlighter yellow SIR9?!? I've always wanted to try carbon, but the threads about cracked A9C frames got me a little worried. I'm quite familiar with steel frames though, just not the SIR9. Suggestions?

  64. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by goldenaustin View Post
    hmm clearance Air 9 Carbon, or highlighter yellow SIR9?!? I've always wanted to try carbon, but the threads about cracked A9C frames got me a little worried. I'm quite familiar with steel frames though, just not the SIR9. Suggestions?
    That A9C closeout looks like a super deal. Less than a new SIR9 frame, and you get a light and stiff carbon frame. However, if you really like the ride of a steel frame and don't mind the extra weight, the SIR9 is very nice. I have a 1st gen SIR9 frame and still like it a lot. They had a tendency to crack at the rear dropout, but mine is still going strong. The newer SIR9 frames don't appear to have that issue (that I know of).

    Another steel frame that looks great is the Vassago Verhauen. Pretty much the same price as the SIR9, and also high-quality steel. It has rear sliders vs. the Niner's EBB, so choose based on your preference. I have friends who hate EBBs. My original Biocentric EBB was kind of finicky -- it tended to slip and needed constant adjustment and was difficult to adjust. I recently replaced it with a new Biocentric II, which I like a lot better. It hasn't slipped or creaked, is easy to adjust, and requires less bolt torque to keep from slipping.

    Some folks hate that adjusting an EBB changes your seat-to-bb relationship and bb height. Others like that this allows some fine-tuning of geometry.

    Official Niner Single Speed Thread-sir9-ss-new1.jpg

  65. #265
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    I have owned a first gen Sir9 and currently own a 2nd gen Sir9 and I also own an Air9C. If they still have any left, I would buy the Air9C for $899. It is about 2 lbs lighter than the Sir9 and also, you can use all your old parts. The rear spacing on the 3rd gen Sir9 is 142. Yes "steel is real" and the Sir 9 rides great, but while carbon doesn't flex as much (big hits are better with steel) it totally dampens a lot of chatter so the ride is a wash. The weakness of steel is that without making the bike very heavy (and it will be a lot heavier anyway) is that they are never as stiff in the steering head area and the carbon bike will steer much more precisely. Also, you would have a full warranty on the Air9C at this less than half price.

    Their are basically 2 main sizes for eccentric bb's. Cannondale and others use the one size and Niner and others use the other. The Niner size is slightly bigger and I actually know a guy that had a Biocentric machined down to fit in a Cannondale.
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  66. #266
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    New question here. 2013 Air 9 C vs 2014 One 9 RDO?

    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    KimWoodsrider: the newest Niner frames have the dreaded 142 rear spacing. If you hurry, you can get an Air 9 Carbon (no longer in production) for $899 at Competitive Cyclist. This is the same frame that the SS world champion rode last year and the list price on the frame is $1899. Be sure to get the biocentric BB also since the frame comes with the hole only.
    Hi, this a great tip. Thank you. I'm curious to know what are the major differences between the 2014 One 9 RDO and this frame though (besides the rear spacing and the location of the rear brake mount). Niner says in their website that they "optimized" the design. They also list the weight of the new frame as 1,235 gr (supposedly lighter than the 2013 Air 9 C?). If money was not an issue, which one would you get?

    Thanks!

  67. #267
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    Well considering the price of the Air9C is $899 and the other frame is around $2000, I would have to be in the $1 billion club before I would not consider this price difference. I am sure the new frame is a little lighter since carbon keeps improving. I will never know since I refuse to support the 142 rear triangle. The only bikes that I see it being a benefit to would be a steel hardtail. Aluminum and carbon bikes if properly engineered get little or no benefit and it raises costs for everyone because of changing wheelsets or buying wheelsets that are convertible and the parts to convert, etc. And if the industry was going to all the trouble to give us this new standard, why did they not go with 145 which is a standard in the tandem world and also moves the chainline out so you can make stronger wheels. Instead they give us a different axle and the same chainline so the wheels don't get any stronger just the axle area which in my opinion is plenty strong already. Anyway, sorry for the rant but I think you know which frame I would buy. My frame and biocentric weighed 1380 (medium) so if their weight is with the biocentric then the diff is 145 grams if it is without the biocentric them probably 20 grams. If you really don't care about money and you want the latest thing then you should buy the new design.

    Another factor is that the Air9C will have a higher resale value due to the fact that you can run it with any drivetrain made. Used SS only frames generally do not do that well on ebay compared. But if you don't care about the cost you probably don't care about the resale.
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  68. #268
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    Thank you very much for the quick reply & useful info. I do care about the money and that's a big difference. I just wanted to isolate the technical side and money side of the discussion.

    I'm just about to complete the purchase in Competitive Cyclist and I'm trying to decide on a fork. Any suggestions? For context, I intend to start racing XC (again), SS. I did that 2 years in a Superfly SS with the G2 geometry Fox 80mm fork, and I liked that. I also have a 2010 Niner Air 9 Al/Scan with a 100mm Fox 32 FIT 15QR and I've used the extra travel on occasions.

    Thanks a lot!

  69. #269
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    I would go with 100 mm travel. I have both Fox and SRAM forks and both are good. The Fox's tend to have better small bump compliance but are, all things else equal easier to bottom on the big hits. The Fox's seem to need a little more maintenance. I always used to like the SRAM's a little better, but I really like my latest Fox Float 29 32 with FIT. I have never owned a G2 fork so I can't help there. Also, all my SRAM's are dual air and I have not ridden the newest single air SRAM's. Also, the Fox's I tend to like better on SS bikes because the lockout on Fox's can be an almost total lockout an the SRAM's even with the flow gate turned up still have a little travel (which I do tend to prefer on geared bikes). So, while I would recommend you get your preference in forks, If I was buying a new fork for a SS project like yours I would go with the Fox FLOAT 29 32 with fit in 100 mm or whatever this year model equivalent is.
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  70. #270
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    As far as the 100/90/80 fork length thing goes, the manufacturers for the most part make 100 mm forks and then put a spacer in the leg to space it down to 90 or 80. An 80 mm fork gives quicker handling and 100 slightly slower because it increases the rake and also raises the center of gravity. I have had a fork that was spaced to 90 and sent it in and had it unspaced to 100. When I got it back, I felt the slower steering so I increased my sag by lowering the air. Then the fork rode more plushly, had longer negative travel on takeoffs/landings, and steered almost as quickly. I liked it much better.

    To explain this let's start with a 100 mm fork. If you sag it 20% in normal riding you will be 80 mm from the stop (80 mm travel left on average). IF you shim it down to 80 and sag it 20 % you will only have 64 mm of travel left from the sag position. If you would have lowered the pressure in the 100mm fork such that you sagged it 30% you would have 70 mm of travel left. Close to the 64 of the 80 mm fork so almost identical handling but a much plusher ride and when you go over a jump, your wheel will contact the ground 20 mm sooner (the fork is 20 mm longer when extended) and so you should land much softer overall and you will have 6 mm more compression travel on average too (although you will burn through it faster since you are running less air pressure, but not as fast as you might think since you will still have to push oil through the dampeners for that now longer distance).

    Bottom line, always get the 100 mm and sag it on the high side like 30%.
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  71. #271
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    Thanks again. Fox Float 29 32 FIT with CTD & remote control it is.

  72. #272
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    Great explanation. Thanks. I will play with this once I put the bike together.

  73. #273
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    New question here. Size check Air 9 C, M or L?

    Sorry for all the questions. I didn't want to miss on this deal (Air 9 C @ Comp. Cyclist) so I ordered the frame, size L, but now I'm having second thoughts (I should be able to change my order if I do it by Mon morning). I'm 5'10", right in the middle of the Niner recommended height range for an M. My 2010 Air 9 Scan is M and with a 110mm stem and Niner flat bar is OK, although sometimes I think the cockpit is a bit small/cramped. My Superfly SS is a 17.5 (M), with very similar dimensions. However, I used the sizing app that Competitive Cyclist has and the range of measures I got (for XC riding) were well within the L range (e.g., TT 24.7 to 25.1"), so I went with the L.

    Has any one used this fitting app from Comp. Cyclist? If so, how the recommendations turned out to be? (approx. right or out of whack?) Alternatively, what size are guys (or gals with 5' 10", 32.5" inseam and regular build using for XC racing?

    Thanks a lot.

  74. #274
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    Never used the Competitive Cyclist app, but I am exactly 5' 10' and very happy on a medium with a Niner Flat bar cut to 690. I tend to have long legs and short body so I am using an 80mm stem and lots of a 400 mm seatpost, but the stem is flat with only 10 mm spacer so low. Before I bought my first Niner I rode a L Jet and a M Jet and while either would work ok, the M felt much better. Also, only rarely an issue when you are standing in a low spot, but crotch clearance is about half an inch better on a medium. If you can't change the order, you will be fine, but if you can, I would. If you have normal position, you will use less seatpost than me and your seat will be further forward so you will need a longer stem than me like 110. On a large, you will use less post than I do and probably about 80-90 stem.
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  75. #275
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    I'm 5'10 with a shorter inseam and the L air 9 carbon fits me really well. I use a 90mm stem on it.
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  76. #276
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    Thanks for all the input/help one more time. I put in the change request to a M. We'll see what happens, hopefully they don't run out of Ms between now and Monday!

    It has been a while but now I remember that I did tried an Air 9 Al L back on 2010 and I found it a bit unyielding, so I settled for the M. I also have Niner flat bars cut to 690mm on both bikes now and also use a lot of the 400mm seat posts so I think M is the safest option.

    Hopefully, the next post will be with pics of the new bike

  77. #277
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    I'm 5'10 or so and ride the medium Air9C. Before I had a GF Superfly SS 17.5 and sizing feels similar. I'm technically between a Medium and a large, but always feel more comfortable on a medium. All depends on the rider IMO. I use a 90mm stem.

  78. #278
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    Just went rigid. However, this may be the last time we see this frame. It's cracked and hopefully getting replaced by a SIR9. We'll see.
    Official Niner Single Speed Thread-img_0473_zps7b1b31db.jpg

    Official Niner Single Speed Thread-img_0485_zps4f18754e.jpg

    Official Niner Single Speed Thread-img_0484_zps3523876f.jpg

    Official Niner Single Speed Thread-img_0481_zpsb21536f4.jpg

    Official Niner Single Speed Thread-img_0479_zps5c6bcd68.jpg

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  79. #279
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    Nice looking bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by J3SSEB View Post
    Just went rigid. However, this may be the last time we see this frame. It's cracked and hopefully getting replaced by a SIR9. We'll see.
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  80. #280
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    Just went rigid. However, this may be the last time we see this frame. It's cracked and hopefully getting replaced by a SIR9. We'll see.

    Can I ask where did it crack and in what weather conditions were you riding it in? Cold? I just ordered the air 9 c. and have concerns about cold weather riding. I bike looks sweet.

  81. #281
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    Temperature have little effect on carbon. At least temperatures that humans could possibly ride in. A bad layup or not getting the bag tight are usually what affects carbon.
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  82. #282
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    I need a little help on some parts for my air 9 c. I am planning on selling my trek rig and will take off all the upgrades. Since I am not going to use the cranks, I am up in the air of what ebb I should use. The niner EBB 2, beer ebb(looks like it is crank specific), or problem solvers ebb. Also, I would like a suggestion on a good crank that I can pick up second hand? Seat posts. The niner looks good but I would like some feed back. I would say that I am out of the saddle 50% of the time. I have XT brakes and a set of I23 rims with hadley SS hubs which I love. Little heavy but stout. Thanks for the help with my past questions and looking forward to riding and racing this bike in SS class. I would like to end weight to be around 20-20.5 pounds. Oh, might have to get a new fork since my fox is going with the trek! More suggestions. Mid grade fork is fine as our riding areas are flat with little to no big drops. Not sure I would like a carbon fork but I am open. Thanks

  83. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by J3SSEB View Post
    Just went rigid. However, this may be the last time we see this frame. It's cracked and hopefully getting replaced by a SIR9. We'll see.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    That's a shame - such a beautiful bike too.

    Where did it crack? Could you show pics?

  84. #284
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    Took it to the LBS today. Waiting to hear back from Niner.
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  85. #285
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    Sorry if you've already answered this question elsewhere but did you hear any noise while riding with this crack? I'm getting a lot of creaking and I'm about 90% sure it's my seatpost/saddle interface but seeing a few of these with cracks here is making me nervous. I check my frame periodically and haven't noticed anything but I also have a black frame so maybe not as easy to tell.

    Also, I agree with BigWheels. That is a nice looking bike.

  86. #286
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    This is exactly why I can't pull the trigger on the A9C deals right now, even at the blow out prices. Sweet looking/riding bikes from all the reviews and pictures, but what a pain to have to deal with cracking. I was also eyeing the moondust too, since that's all that's left. I also passed on the black licorice too, just because I figured it would be difficult to spot cracks. Oh well, the SIR9 or other similar steel frame isn't really a bad next option though.

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7daysaweek View Post
    Sorry if you've already answered this question elsewhere but did you hear any noise while riding with this crack? I'm getting a lot of creaking and I'm about 90% sure it's my seatpost/saddle interface but seeing a few of these with cracks here is making me nervous. I check my frame periodically and haven't noticed anything but I also have a black frame so maybe not as easy to tell.

    Also, I agree with BigWheels. That is a nice looking bike.
    There's no telling when it happened, but I do remember hearing a pretty loud pop sound coming from the seat post area on my last ride before I discovered it. I dismissed the sound because the bike had been making a several noises from the bb and the seat post area. Try carbon compound inside the seat tube and on the seat post and clamp. That alleviated some of my creaking.
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  88. #288
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    My friend suggested that it may just be the clear coat/paint cracking. Either way, if it is flexing that much, then the carbon is bound to break eventually right?
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  89. #289
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    I have been doing some reading on the niner website. I found in the tech encyclopedia, that Niner does not recommend any other EBB components from other companies to be used on the their carbon bikes. They state that the ebb of other sources could damage the carbon. I am guessing the problem solvers or beer components are out of the question. Since I am going to run the niner EBB for SS and to keep my warranty, I purchased the niner ebb. This will make me run the 24mm cranks. I see alot of XO or XX cranks but not alot of bash guards. Is there a reason for no bash guard. I ll hop logs and sometimes hit the bottom tube or bash guard on the log. I will not be doing this on a carbon frame though. Is the niner EBB the only way to setup the bike for SS riding? A little worried about all these cracks showing up, but its under warranty. So, I am ok with taking a chance.

  90. #290
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    Can you run a straight 1 1/8 fork on the air 9 carbon with the race insert from niner? Or do you have to buy a tapered fork steer?


    Thanks

  91. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by KTMwoodsrider View Post
    Can you run a straight 1 1/8 fork on the air 9 carbon with the race insert from niner? Or do you have to buy a tapered fork steer?


    Thanks
    Yes you can run a 1 1/8 if you want to.
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  92. #292
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    You just have to make sure you get the right "adaptor" crown race for your headset. Probably best to call the headset maker or at least get the specs off their web site.
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  93. #293
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    My One9 was in bits but got built back up for a trip to Ireland with all the mud and sheep sh1t... its a cool one over here at the moment.

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  94. #294
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    Got my air 9 C frame today. I feel think I got taken. On a weight to dollar ratio, I got screwed. Seriously, I am blown away how lite the frame is and I haven't even removed a piece of cardboard attached to the frame yet. I just moved into a whole new class of bike with this purchase. I am going to drop some pesos on this project! I hope this will be a fun bike to ride! Thanks for everybodys help with answering my questions. I am a noob to niner!

  95. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by KTMwoodsrider View Post
    Got my air 9 C frame today. I feel think I got taken. On a weight to dollar ratio, I got screwed. Seriously, I am blown away how lite the frame is and I haven't even removed a piece of cardboard attached to the frame yet. I just moved into a whole new class of bike with this purchase. I am going to drop some pesos on this project! I hope this will be a fun bike to ride! Thanks for everybodys help with answering my questions. I am a noob to niner!
    I'm stoked for you KTM. I hope you're gonna share some pics!

    What ideas do you have for the build? Bought any other bits yet?

  96. #296
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    My Medium bare frame weighed 1490 grams. They are so light you are amazed that they can hold you up.
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  97. #297
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    Just a quick update from Niner: The've said they will replace my Air 9 with a Sir 9 ( sweet!), but not until January, which is just around the corner anyway. I think I'm going to go for it. I'd hate to get another Air 9 just to have it crack again. I know the chances of that are probably pretty slim, but there's still always a chance.
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  98. #298
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    I recently received my Air9C warranty frame and have a couple of rides since building... too much rain lately in Ga. Today is 70 with no rain so hoping to get 20 or so miles in today. This is one of my favorite builds.

    Official Niner Single Speed Thread-image.jpg

  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSATL77 View Post
    I recently received my Air9C warranty frame and have a couple of rides since building... too much rain lately in Ga. Today is 70 with no rain so hoping to get 20 or so miles in today. This is one of my favorite builds.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That is a great looking bike.
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    Dec 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigwheelsRbest View Post
    I'm stoked for you KTM. I hope you're gonna share some pics!

    What ideas do you have for the build? Bought any other bits yet?
    Much appreciated enthusiasm!

    I did buy a front fork for the bike. After a lot of investigative reading on forks and a great price that I could not match with another brand, I bought a manitou tower pro 100mm fork. I read an interview on twentynineinches.com where the chief engineer talked about the company. Two things impressed me and was half the reason I bought the fork. One was customer service and the other was rider adjust ability with shimming the fork. The other half was price! I need to buy cranks, which I would like to get XO1, seat post(still thinking), stem and bars. From the money I saved on the fork, I can spend on the cranks.

    As yourdaguy stated, I too am amazed that this frame will hold up to my riding. However, I don't have any jumps or big drops in our riding or racing courses. I have a friend who broke is specialized carbon stumpy, then a S works replacement frame last year. Specialized upgraded him to a epic at a replacement price and told him this was the last bike frame he would get from them! Cant blame them. Not sure what happened but he is an aggressive rider that is not to smooth.

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