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  1. #1
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    Smile Niner & PF30 BB Experience Database

    New Update: 1-2-13 (see below reference material)
    In addition to the Enduro bearings discussion, I have also added the Loctite and Permatex specs.
    -Thank you to all so far who have put their data into this thread!


    I would like to start a new thread and from my searching I didn't see it anywhere. While
    there are threads that talk a little about PF30, non go over things in enough detail to distill
    the facts. As this grows, we can then expand it to all frames that have PF30 but right now
    lets just keep it to Niner's spec'ed production version.

    Wiithout getting into too many details, I have heard about instances where after several installations of a SRAM/Truvativ PF30 BB in an Air 9 RDO, the shell became too wide to get a good fit and/or individuals were experiencing noise issues. To try to get an idea of all the issues, problems, and to try and find possible solutions, I am suggesting the following below.

    Can people please share the following:
    1. Niner frame & version if known (if unsure, does it have a drain hole under the
    BB shell?)
    2. What PF30 BB cups were installed (Enduro, Rotor, FSA, Wheels Mfg, E*Thirteen, Reset-Racing, Campy, Parlee, SRAM/Truvativ, other)
    3. Steel or ceramic bearings?
    4. Who installed the BB?
    5. Tool used for install (Park, Shimano, Home-Made-Press, other)?
    6. Was it ever replaced and by whom and with which BB?
    7. Did you install the BB using carbon paste, Permatex High Performance, Loctite 609/641, Loctite xxx, Electrical tape, Plumbers tape, Other glue, Grease, or just Nothing (Dry Prep Only), etc)?
    8. Describe any issues you had &/or your experience with PF30.

    9. If you installed yourself, did you make your own bearing press? If so, describe the parts you bought and how well it worked.

    I am hearing, seeing, and reading about many issues with PF30 and I would like to gather as much information as we can to distill the facts. My goals is that we come up with a set of instructions that are idea for first time installation and reinstallation. We can also have a guide for troubleshooting and solutions once we have enough data. At some point I will add section on manufactures PF30 installation recommendations.

    If there are any mtbr Forum members who work for frame companies or PF30 manufacturers reading this thread, please feel free to place your PF30 installation recommendations here as it will be appreciated by all.

    Thanks,

    Jonathan

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    Discussion and facts from Enduro / ABI Industries
    I emailed and spoke with the technical advisor from Endro bearings.
    This is a summary of the discussion:
    1. Enduro did extensive testing of many PF30 BB's, shells, glues, and adhesives
    2. Adhesives Results:
    a) Permatex High Performace is far superior to any Loctite (609/641/660,etc.) in its non-permanent adhesive function (cups can also be easily removed if needed).
    b) Enduro testing showed that Permatex is a Non-permanent adhesive and acts like a liquid pipe tape. It reduces cup movement and noise issues better than Loctite or any other solution.
    3. Machined BB shells are ideal per their testing and have better tolerances.
    4. Machined PF30 cups are ideal per their testing and have better tolerances.
    5. Finely machined Delrin or machined aluminium is ideal for the PF30 cup material
    -some Delrin is extruded and not machined (Beware!)
    -some metal cups may not be machined very well either!
    6. Enduro/ABI machines all their Delrin cups
    -they have done extensive testing and find that machined Delrin plus Permatex adhesive gives the best results with the least amount of potential cup movement and resulting noise issues.
    -the cups can also later be removed without much issue due to the non-permanent adhesive

    Enduro mtb PF30 Installation Directions
    Step 1
    - Coat the mating surfaces between the frame and the Cups with Permatex. Here is a link to the Permatex that we recommend.

    Thread Sealants : Permatex® High Performance Thread Sealant

    -Once the cups are pressed into the frame wipe away any extra Permatex that may still be present.

    Step 2
    - Press the bearings into the cups. We recommend using our BB30 tool to do this. It will ensure that the bearings don't get pressed in too far and damage the frame or the bearings. We have a wide variety of bearings that can be used for this set up, but ensure that they have the part number 6806.

    Step 3
    -Install the Rotor cranks. With this set up you will need to use the Rotor spacers to achieve the proper chain line. I believe that it will just take one 11mm wide spacer on both sides. Once you have it spaced correctly then tighten down the non drive side crank arm to rotors spec and then eliminate any extra side play with their preload adjuster.

    Both Enduro and Rotor have provided some of the best customer support I have ever experienced and give them both cudos! Their technical expertise has been very helpful in sorting all this information out.

    Important: per my discussion with Enduro, even if you install the cups correctly, problems can still develop if the crank isn't properly spaced and secured.
    The ideal would be to use a crank, like Rotor, which has preload adjustments built in.
    If there is too much crank movement then the cups will move no matter what adhesive or mounting technique one uses and noise will ensue and you may also damage the carbon shell in some cases!!!


    Final Points and Summary:
    -Niner supposedly machines the Air 9 RDO carbon shell
    -Enduro machines their Delrin PF30 cups
    -Rotor machines their alloy PF30 cups
    -Permatex high performance is the best non-permanent adhesive

    --------------------------------------------------------------------

    Permatex High Performance thread sealant

    Specs and MDF docs
    Thread Sealants : Permatex® High Performance Thread Sealant

    - can be purchased online or at a local autoparts store and possible a hardware store

    --------------------------------------------------------------------

    How To Make A Home-Made Bearing Press
    -this is what I made using parts purchased from Home Depot
    -there have been many discussions of how to make your own (google to find more info)

    Parts:
    1. (1) Hex Bolt 5" x 3/4" fully threaded ~$2.50
    2. (1) 3/4" nut ~$0.50/nut
    3. (4) 3/4" washers ~$0.40/washer ($~1.60)
    Total cost ~ $5.00 with tax
    4. wrap the washers that come in contact with the frame and cup with masking tape or duct tape to whatever thickness you prefer.
    5. consensus from all: install each bearing cup one at a time for the best control and seating.

    -note: a few people have used some drilled out wood blocks between the frame and the cups (you will need a much longer bolt if you do this) while others have used large washers that dont put any load on the bearings themselves

    --------------------------------------------------------------------

    Loctite Spec Sheet

    http://www.useloctite.com/filephotos...ions_Guide.pdf

    Based on the specs, this is what is recommended for removable bearing systems:

    Loctite 609
    1. Medium strength, Non-permanent
    2. Used for gaps up to 0.1mm

    Loctite 641
    1. Low strength, Non-permanent
    2. Used for gaps up to 0.15mm

    Loctite 660
    1. High strength, Non-permanent
    2. Used for gaps up to 0.5mm
    3. Probably best used for damaged or out of spec applications (when cups seem loose)

    Based on the above data, I would interpret this to mean that Loctite 609 or 641 would be ideal for applications like a primary installation or subsequent installations of the PF30 BB.

    I would probably reserve the use of Loctite 660 for instances where the BB shell goes out of spec after removal of the bearings or improper install. It might also work well in situations where one might unfortunately develop cup movement wear of the inner carbon shell resulting in a much larger gap (greater than 0.15mm). Loctite 660 is good for gaps up to 0.5mm.

    To check your BB shell and cups, I would recommend the use of digital calipers before and then after each subsequent installation. Make sure to measure several points (2-4) of the carbon shell inner diameter (ID) on both sides and record that down for future reference. I would also recommend measuring the each cups out diameter (OD). By keeping a record, you can use this for future warranty information and also to troubleshoot any problems that you may have or develop during or after installation(s).

    Example of my caliper measurements before installation:
    Air 9 RDO BB shell:
    -Left ID=45.92 & 45.96
    -Right ID=45.93 & 45.95

    Rotor 4630 BB:
    -Cup 1: 46.00
    -Cup 2: 46.02

    SRAM/Truvativ PF30 BB:
    -Cup 1: 46.10
    -Cup 2: 46.08

    --------------------------------------------------------------------

    Below are compiled Manuals and Manufacturer recommendations for PF30


    Niner Bikes
    -Recommendations from call with Ralph @ Niner 12-29-12 @1320)
    Dry install (they usually use the SRAM/Truvativ PF30 BB)
    Sometimes use BSA adapter for external cups
    Have not used Rotor PF30 BB but said it is fine to use
    Finish Line carbon prep (for carbon-metal interface or carbon-carbon interface)
    Press one side at a time
    Use headset press
    Call back if making noise for recommendations

    --------------------------------------------------------------------

    Rotor USA
    Pressfit manual (BB86, BB89, BB92):
    http://www.rotorbike.com/nueva/infotecnica/ManualPF.pdf
    Revised 04/2010
    Do not install ROTOR Press-Fit cups if the frame has openings inside the bottom bracket shell as contamination would reduce bearings life significantly
    Installing Press-Fit cups is a complicated process that requires specific tools. Visit your ROTOR dealer to complete the installation.
    Apply pressure evenly to both sides while installing the cups in the frame so that they do not become tilted. Only push on the alloy cap; pushing anywhere else may damage the bearings.
    Removal - Push out firmly from the inside using a blunt tool. Do not reuse the cups as they can be damaged from removal. Avoid damaging the frame during the removal.

    Spoke with Jeremy 12-29-12 @1410
    1. Use standard grease and press in on metal-metal only
    2. Dry or carbon paste for carbon-metal
    3. Medium strength Loctite 641 (or 609 non-permanent)
    4. Be safe: go with Loctite first (Less noise with Loctite)
    5. Don’t use grease with carbon on metal
    6. Have had issues with SRAM pressed in dry – noise
    7. If shell not precise, carbon paste will help with space and protection
    8. Can start with carbon paste – may get creaking
    9. Pull out and use Loctite if makes creaking
    10. Press one side at a time
    11. No issue with Niner

    --------------------------------------------------------------------

    SRAM/Truvativ PF30
    -They recommend a dry press install or grease for their press fit GXP bearings. There is no manual for the PF30 ones. It is probably based on a metal-metal interface for GXP.
    -I will update this as I learn more
    -Niner does their install dry with the SRAM/Truvativ PF30 bearing

    --------------------------------------------------------------------

    Enduro ABEC-3 Press Fit 30 BB (XD-15)
    See installation and testing information above
    Comments from their message board:
    Q1. I had aluminum adapters and they made creaking noises. Do the Wheels adapters creak too? Would I need to grease them when installing to prevent this?
    A1. Our shims are made from engineering grade Delrin. This eliminates the metal-against-metal problem that causes creaking. No grease is required.

    Q2. The bearings in my BB30 frame make noise when I pedal hard. Any idea why?
    If the sealed bearings are not seated firmly in the BB shell, or if the bearings are not correctly aligned they can be noisy and wear out quickly.
    A2. Have a shop make sure that the bearings are installed correctly. In some cases, it might be necessary to use Loctite (green) to firmly seat the bearings.

    Q3. Once installed, how difficult is it to remove the BB30 adapters and what tools are required?
    A3. The adapters are easy to remove. They can be removed by inserting a long flat-ended punch (or even an wooden rod) through the bottom bracket and tapping the adapters out from the inside.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------

    Reset-Racing (German PF30 Bearings)
    www.reset-racing.de

    Installation manual in German
    http://www.reset-racing.de/reset/res...0_MTB68_01.pdf

    Google translation of the manual
    Assembly (they recommend using grease which means it is probably for metal-metal installations)
    * 1st O-ring (B) in the thin shells (C) grease.
    * 2nd The contact surface of the bottom bracket cups for grease the bottom bracket shell thin.
    * 3rd Cups (C) press in gently. For this, use a hammer.
    * 4th Inside of the shells (C) with a thin layer of fat.
    * 5th Bearing (D) fat and put on the installation device. Together gently slide it into the left-hand cup. Attention! Should the
    ** Ball bearings for installation tilt, pull the ball bearing back from the bush and try again Installation Step 5 try
    **** Never camp with beatings continued seated.
    * 6th Seal (e) Grease thin and with the label side to the ball bearing (D) mounted in the left-hand cup.
    * 7th Sleeve (A) through the right support (C) in the inner bearing sleeve until the O-ring (B) is reached the left cup.
    * 8th Bearing (D) fat and put on the installation device. Together gently slide it into the right-hand cup. Attention! Should the
    ** Ball bearings for installation tilt, pull the ball bearing back from the bush and try again Installation Step 8 try
    **** Never camp with beatings continued seated.
    * 9th Seal (e) Grease thin and fit with the label side to the ball bearing (D) in the right-hand cup.
    * 10th Check by turning the ball bearings (D) that they rotate freely and do not touch the core (A). Move in the case of
    ** Corresponding contact, the sleeve in the interior of the inner bearing.
    * 11th Grease O-rings used in thin and nuclei (F).
    * 12th Nuclei (F) thin grease and push it into the bottom bracket.
    * 13th Crankshaft fat, attach a spacer (H) and insert them into the assembled nuclei (F).
    * 14th Second spacer (H) onto the crank and block the second crank arm, according to the crank manufacturer.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------

    SPECIALIZED BICYCLE COMPONENTS (Latest Rev Documents)
    15130 Concord Circle, Morgan Hill, CA 95037 (408) 779-6229
    IG0276 Rev.D, May 2011

    http://service.specialized.com/colla...B-Crankset.pdf

    1. Apply grease to the outer diameter of the OSBB Bearings, then press the bearings into the PF30 cups by hand. Be sure to press the bearings in straight. Do not force the bearings into the cups.

    2.Apply grease to the outer diameter of the PF30 cups, then place the Mindset Headset Bearing Press tools (9895-3045) against the bearings. Either use a Park Headset Press Tool or a bench-mounted vise to press the cups into the frame. To avoid damage to the cups, be sure to press the cups evenly into the frame.

    3.Once the flanges of the cups bottom out against the frame, do not apply any more pressure. Too much force applied to the cups once bottomed out can cause damage to the cups and can cause the bearings to spin roughly.

    NOTE: To remove the PF30 cups from the frame, first pull the bearings out as shown on page 6, then lightly tap the backside of the cups in a circular motion with a large flat surface. Do not use a screwdriver, as it may damage the cups.

    Right (drive-side) alloy bearing spacer specification (#9):

     2 x 10 chainring/spider: Large diameter spacer (S111600009).
     Triple chainring/spider: Small diameter spacer (S111600007).
     Double chainring with bashguard/triple spider: Small diameter spacer (S111600007).

    NOTE: Certain 2 x 10 spiders do not have the space to accept the large diameter spacer. Check the clearance between the large spacer and the chainring before installing the system.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------

    SPECIALIZED BICYCLE COMPONENTS
    15130 Concord Circle, Morgan Hill, CA 95037 (408) 779-6229
    IG0401 Rev.C, October 2012

    http://service.specialized.com/colla...G0401_revC.pdf

    46mm PF30 SHELL WITH PRESS-IN CUPS
     Remove any grease from the bottom bracket shell.
     Finish cleaning the bottom bracket shell with an alcohol wipe.
     Prepare the cranks for installation. Any adapters, spacers, wave washers, spider, chainrings, etc. that are involved with the installation of the crank must be ready to be installed prior to the installation of the bottom bracket cups.

    NOTE: Due to the 20 minute work time of the epoxy, the cranks must be installed immediately after the cups are installed, to ensure that the cups, bearings and crank are aligned.

     Fully mix the 3M DP 420 2-part epoxy, then apply the epoxy to the outer surface of the OSBB cups and the first 10mm of the inner diameter of the bottom bracket shell.
     Wipe off the excess epoxy from the inside and outside flanges of the cups. Use an alcohol wipe to clean off any remaining residue.
     Press the cups into the bottom bracket shell until the cups lightly bottom out against the frame. Use either the Specialized Bottom Bracket Bearing Press (S125300012) or the Mindset Headset Bearing Press tool (9895-3045). When using the 9895-3045 tool, either use a Park Headset Press Tool or a bench-mounted vise to press the cups into the frame. Be sure to press the cups evenly into the frame.
     Apply grease to the outer diameter of the OSBB bearings, then press them into the cups using the same tool that pressed the cups into the frame. Be sure to press the bearings in straight. Do not force the bearings into the cup. Wipe any last epoxy residue from the outside of the cup.
     Once the bearings bottom out in the cups, do not apply any more pressure. Excess force can damage the cups and cause the bearings to spin roughly.
     To remove the cups from the frame, pull the bearings out as shown in the Specialized Carbon Crank set Instruction Guide, then lightly tap the backside of the cups in a circular pattern with a large flat surface. Do not use a screwdriver, as it may damage the cups.
     Before installing new cups with new epoxy, remove any excess epoxy lips that may have formed at the inside and outside edges of the cups

    --------------------------------------------------------------------

    SPECIALIZED BICYCLE COMPONENTS
    15130 Concord Circle, Morgan Hill, CA 95037 (408) 779-6229
    IG0276 Rev.C, February 2011

    http://service.specialized.com/colla...B-Crankset.pdf

    1. Apply grease to the outer diameter of the OSBB Bearings, then
    press the bearings into the PF30 cups by hand. Be sure to press the
    bearings in straight. Do not force the bearings into the cups.
    2.Apply grease to the outer diameter of the PF30 cups, then place
    the Mindset Headset Bearing Press tools (9895-3045) against the
    bearings. Either use a Park Headset Press Tool or a bench-mounted
    vise to press the cups into the frame. To avoid damage to the cups, be
    sure to press the cups evenly into the frame.
    3.Once the flanges of the cups bottom out against the frame, do not
    apply any more pressure. Too much force applied to the cups once
    bottomed out can cause damage to the cups and can cause the
    bearings to spin roughly.

    NOTE: To remove the PF30 cups from the frame, first pull the
    bearings out as shown on page 6, then lightly tap the backside of
    the cups in a circular motion with a large flat surface. Do not use a
    screwdriver, it may damage the cups.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------

    Cannondale

    -image missing (will try and fix)

    --------------------------------------------------------------------

    Velo News Article to Zinn of PF30
    1/24/12

    Tech FAQ: on front brake mounting

    --------------------------------------------------------------------

    If you are using a PF30 to BSA adapter:

    Ask a Mechanic – Adapting SRAM GXP to PF30, BB30, & BBRight | Art’s Cyclery Blog

    Posted on June 20, 2012 by Daniel
    Quote from blog:
    I prefer the SRAM BSA PF30 adapter because it is the most secure option available and it uses a bottom bracket (standard BSA GXP threaded cups) that was designed by SRAM to work ideally with their proprietary GXP spindle design. The thing to keep in mind is that the GXP spindle was conceived when there were only two very similar bottom bracket standards in use, BSA and Italian. The design really requires that the non-drive side bearing be completely fixed in the frame (i.e. no press-fit), as the crank is fastened to this bearing. This quirk is why SRAM is such a proponent of BB30 cranks and why they developed the PF30 standard, because GXP cranks do not adapt well to the bevy of press-fit bottom bracket standards that have materialized in recent years. While the BSA adapter does not fully allow this, it is the closest SRAM sanctioned option available.
    What allows the SRAM adapter to work so well is that it utilizes an included wave washer and shims that takes up excess space between the spindle and the overall width of the frame’s bottom bracket shell, the adapter, and the plastic bearing cups (hereafter referred to as the “bottom bracket assembly”). Other adapters, such as those from Wheels Manufacturing, rely on bottom bracket assemblies being made to very tight tolerances.* If the bottom bracket assembly is out of tolerance and is too wide, then the bearings will have too much preload on them and will suffer from excess drag. If the bottom bracket assembly is too narrow, then the adapter or bearing on the non-drive side will move outboard until the crank spider bottoms out on the drive side bearing. In a worst case scenario where the bearing bores, cups, or bottom bracket shell diameters are out of tolerance, the crank will move side-to-side inside the frame rather than finding a resting place as described in the previous sentence. Of course the BSA adapter will allow a modicum of side-to-side movement, as it is relying on a wave washer which is essentially a spring after all. But most BB30 cranks rely on such a device with no rider detectable play if set up properly.

    .
    .
    .

    More to come...

    Let me know if anyone finds out more info and I will add it
    Last edited by thehaus; 01-02-2013 at 01:29 PM. Reason: Update from Enduro and make your own bearing press

  2. #2
    thecentralscrutinizer
    Reputation: mopartodd's Avatar
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    2,452
    1. Niner frame & version if known (if unsure, does it have a drain hole under the
    BB shell?) 2012 Air 9...yes, it has a drain hole.
    2. What PF30 BB was installed (Sram/Truvativ, Rotor, FSA, Enduro, Wheels Mfg,
    Campy, other) Truvativ PF30
    3. Steel or ceramic bearings steel
    4. Who installed the BB? bike shop
    5. Tool used for install (Park, Shimano, Home-Made-Press, other) ??
    6. Was it ever replaced and by whom and with which BB? Original, has approx1300 mi.
    7. Did you use grease, carbon paste, Loctite 609, Loctite xxx, Electrical tape, other glue, Dry Prep Only(DPO), etc)? ??
    8. Any issues you had &/or your experience with PF30. No problem whatsoever

    I actually installed the BB on my original Air 9 using a homemade headset press and grease, but the frame was warrantied, so the shop installed it the second time.
    Last edited by mopartodd; 12-22-2012 at 01:23 PM.
    2014 Giant Anthem 27.5
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    2009 SE Racing SoCal Flyer
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    2003 TiSport Gman

  3. #3
    Twin Six METAL Team
    Reputation: chrisgardner73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    614
    1. Niner frame & version if known (if unsure, does it have a drain hole under the
    BB shell?) Air 9 RDO, with drain hole
    2. What PF30 BB was installed (Sram/Truvativ, Rotor, FSA, Enduro, Wheels Mfg,
    Campy, other) SRAM/Truvativ PF30 Ceramic
    3. Steel or ceramic bearings? Ceramic
    4. Who installed the BB? Me
    5. Tool used for install (Park, Shimano, Home-Made-Press, other) Park HHP-2
    6. Was it ever replaced and by whom and with which BB? No
    7. Did you use grease, carbon paste, Loctite 609, Loctite xxx, Electrical tape, other glue, Dry Prep Only(DPO), etc)? Nothing, so Dry Prep Only I assume?
    8. Any issues you had &/or your experience with PF30. The bike is still being built, so no.

    I installed the BB, but don't have any feedback yet since the bike is still being built. I kind of had my head up my a$$ when I installed it though...and forgot to route the rear derailleur cable. I'm running XX1, so no front derailleur cable. I'll be pulling the BB sometime soon.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: herothedog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    305
    1. Niner frame & version if known (if unsure, does it have a drain hole under the
    BB shell?) Original Jet 9 RDO ~2011
    2. What PF30 BB was installed (Sram/Truvativ, Rotor, FSA, Enduro, Wheels Mfg,
    Campy, other) Truvativ PF30
    3. Steel or ceramic bearings ceramic
    4. Who installed the BB? me
    5. Tool used for install (Park, Shimano, Home-Made-Press, other) Park Press
    6. Was it ever replaced and by whom and with which BB? Yes, replaced by me after about 1 year, ~4000 miles. Replaced because bearings seized from riding too deep a water crossing.
    7. Did you use grease, carbon paste, Loctite 609, Loctite xxx, Electrical tape, other glue, Dry Prep Only(DPO), etc)? Original install was a dry install, no issues.
    8. Any issues you had &/or your experience with PF30. Second install had some creaking so tried carbon paste which did not help much then Loctite Green which has mostly remedied the creaking but it is still there a little. Next I'll be using some liquid plumbers tape.

  5. #5
    lamer
    Reputation: llamma's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    291
    1. Niner frame & version if known
    Jet 9 RDO v1.0 (I think? ZS headset, QR rear)

    2. What PF30 BB was installed (Sram/Truvativ, Rotor, FSA, Enduro, Wheels Mfg,
    Campy, other)
    Enduro Zero

    3. Steel or ceramic bearings
    ceramic

    4. Who installed the BB?
    LBS

    5. Tool used for install (Park, Shimano, Home-Made-Press, other)
    not sure

    6. Was it ever replaced and by whom and with which BB?
    driveside bearing exploded, and only the bearing was replaced with steel bearing that came with Specialized S-works cranks

    7. Did you use grease, carbon paste, Loctite 609, Loctite xxx, Electrical tape, other glue, Dry Prep Only(DPO), etc)?
    Dry prep. LBS used green Locktite to secure new bearing in cup

    8. Any issues you had &/or your experience with PF30.
    non-driveside Enduro cup had to be re-pressed after 3 months when it came out about 2-3mm. No creaking before or after

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    10
    . Niner frame & version if known (if unsure, does it have a drain hole under the
    BB shell?)--2012 Air9 w/ drain hole

    2. What PF30 BB was installed (Sram/Truvativ, Rotor, FSA, Enduro, Wheels Mfg,
    Campy, other)--Sram/Truvativ

    3. Steel or ceramic bearings-- Steel

    4. Who installed the BB?-- LBS 1

    5. Tool used for install (Park, Shimano, Home-Made-Press, other)--??

    6. Was it ever replaced and by whom and with which BB?-- Yes, replaced after drive side bearing failure.(3500 mi.) By LBS 2

    7. Did you install the BB using grease, carbon paste, Loctite 609, Loctite xxx, Electrical tape, Plumbers tape, Other glue, Dry Prep Only(DPO), etc)?--??

    8. Describe any issues you had &/or your experience with PF30.-- First one minimal noise for 3500 mi. New one horrible noise (creaking) after a few rides. It's going back to
    LBS 2.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Noclutch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    792
    1. Niner frame & version if known (if unsure, does it have a drain hole under the
    BB shell?) Jet 9 RDO V1.0

    2. What PF30 BB was installed (Sram/Truvativ, Rotor, FSA, Enduro, Wheels Mfg,
    Campy, other) Sram

    3. Steel or ceramic bearings steel

    4. Who installed the BB? shop

    5. Tool used for install (Park, Shimano, Home-Made-Press, other) ??

    6. Was it ever replaced and by whom and with which BB?no

    7. Did you install the BB using grease, carbon paste, Loctite 609, Loctite xxx, Electrical tape, Plumbers tape, Other glue, Dry Prep Only(DPO), etc)? dry

    8. Describe any issues you had &/or your experience with PF30. the bearing "purged "white grease for a few hours, which alarmed me initially, but Sram said it was ok and the BB is working fine and quiet after about 2400 miles

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