Jet9 RDO woe

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  • 04-06-2012
    FASTK
    Jet9 RDO woe
    Got my RDO back in January, moved my nearly new Shimano XTR drive train 9sp, triple over and had one good ride so far where the shifting wasn't a complete nightmare. The front derailleur shift is a manual-matic process of moving the shifter, then dismounting the bike to manually lift the chain to the next bigger chain ring.

    The rear dérailleur just ghost shifts constantly, my shop has tried all new cables and housings twice and shortening and lengthening the housing to no effect. <sigh>.:madman:

    I am actively trying to sell my XTR drive train to replace it with SRAM as that seems to work for the other RDO owners in my area.

    Good news is that last night Niner responded that there is a shift upgrade kit available for the RDO to address issues.

    Has anyone had similar issues? How did you fix it? Did you install this kit?
  • 04-06-2012
    JMH
    Bummer to hear the shop wrenches are having trouble with it. My wife's RDO maiden voyage was a rough one but it was entirely down to me cutting the rear housing too short. After I went through and did it right the second time (removed shock, cycled suspension to make sure the housing was long enough but not TOO long) it's been great. Her front shifting has always been perfect. Maybe it's a SRAM vs. SHIMANO issue? It might be that one is more sensitive to setup than the other.

    Hope they get it sorted out for you, sounds frustrating.

    JMH
  • 04-06-2012
    Andrea138
    I'm gonna go out on a limb and say it sounds like you need a new mechanic and not a new component group.
  • 04-06-2012
    FASTK
    Really was hoping to hear that this Niner shift kit cured someone's woes with Shimano. Maybe someone could explain what is in the shift kit and what it is going to do help cure the issue.

    I can't be the only one if Niner has created a shift kit. Obviously addressing a real need and a demand.
  • 04-06-2012
    muzzanic
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by FASTK View Post
    Really was hoping to hear that his Niner shift kit cured someone's woes with Shimano. Maybe someone could explain what is in the shift kit and what it is going to help cure the issue.

    I can't be the only one if Niner has created a shift kit. Obviously addressing a real need and a demand.

    What chain are you running ?

    I have found with a KMC chain you have to be closer with your setup or it doesn;t change as nice as a XTR chain.

    But other than that had no problems ( with 4 RDO's ), That said all needed to have the derailieur hanger setup square before I could get nice changing.

    On all bikes I go back after 3 of 4 weeks of riding when things have settled down & reset the hanger.

    I think your luck will change when you get someone good to look at it, If they cant even get the front shifting right there is little hope of them working out the back.

    Also check that the free hub has no play.
  • 04-06-2012
    Jaybo
    XTR doesn't work with Niner. Sorry. Please send it to me right away.
  • 04-07-2012
    MTBkid SA
    Muzzanic< can you tell me more about aligning the RD as i have not had any problems with my XT set up
    but for a 10 speed it does seem lumpy when changing gears????
  • 04-07-2012
    muzzanic
    1 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MTBkid SA View Post
    Muzzanic< can you tell me more about aligning the RD as i have not had any problems with my XT set up
    but for a 10 speed it does seem lumpy when changing gears????

    Maybe the best tool a mtb rider can own.

    With your rear wheel in & done up tite, You undo the rear derailieur from the frame & screw in the tool.

    You adjust the rod in to just touch the rim( I start at the top of the wheel & use the valve stem as my point of reference ), then slide the adjuster unit in towards the wheel, Then turn the tool around the wheel 90 deg & then spin the wheel so that the valve is now at that point 90 deg from were we started ( The reason I allway spin the wheel & check were the valve is, Is because if the wheel isn't stright it wont through out your check ) As you slide the adjuster part of the tool to the rim you will see if the tool tryes to over lap the rim or has a gap.

    Then repeat around another 90 deg & now you will see if the hanger is stright or if it needs a small bend.

    If needed ( & I'm sure it will, you use the tool to bend the hanger little bits at a time ) untill the rod just touches the rim at 0 deg ,90 deg , 180 deg.

    This make any bike change gear so much better.

    Hope this helps.
  • 04-07-2012
    AZmtncycler
    indeed, one of the best tools available!
    Anytime I've got a shifting/ghosting issue that a simple cable adjustment won't resolve, I break this baby out and 9 out of 10 times, there'll be a hanger to frame alignment issue. :thumbsup:
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    Maybe the best tool a mtb rider can own.

    With your rear wheel in & done up tite, You undo the rear derailieur from the frame & screw in the tool.

    You adjust the rod in to just touch the rim( I start at the top of the wheel & use the valve stem as my point of reference ), then slide the adjuster unit in towards the wheel, Then turn the tool around the wheel 90 deg & then spin the wheel so that the valve is now at that point 90 deg from were we started ( The reason I allway spin the wheel & check were the valve is, Is because if the wheel isn't stright it wont through out your check ) As you slide the adjuster part of the tool to the rim you will see if the tool tryes to over lap the rim or has a gap.

    Then repeat around another 90 deg & now you will see if the hanger is stright or if it needs a small bend.

    If needed ( & I'm sure it will, you use the tool to bend the hanger little bits at a time ) untill the rod just touches the rim at 0 deg ,90 deg , 180 deg.

    This make any bike change gear so much better.

    Hope this helps.

  • 04-07-2012
    Nickbm3
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    Maybe the best tool a mtb rider can own.

    With your rear wheel in & done up tite, You undo the rear derailieur from the frame & screw in the tool.

    You adjust the rod in to just touch the rim( I start at the top of the wheel & use the valve stem as my point of reference ), then slide the adjuster unit in towards the wheel, Then turn the tool around the wheel 90 deg & then spin the wheel so that the valve is now at that point 90 deg from were we started ( The reason I allway spin the wheel & check were the valve is, Is because if the wheel isn't stright it wont through out your check ) As you slide the adjuster part of the tool to the rim you will see if the tool tryes to over lap the rim or has a gap.

    Then repeat around another 90 deg & now you will see if the hanger is stright or if it needs a small bend.

    If needed ( & I'm sure it will, you use the tool to bend the hanger little bits at a time ) untill the rod just touches the rim at 0 deg ,90 deg , 180 deg.

    This make any bike change gear so much better.

    Hope this helps.

    Excellent advice... Ive had an ever so slightly bent hanger cause issues on my own bike as well as on friends bikes. If you can't do this procedure on your own, I believe most local shops can do it for a low price ($10 around here). Without a straight hanger you'll lose your mind trying to get proper shifting! :madman:
  • 04-07-2012
    Miker J
    Option to an alignment tool... Assuming the rear derailure hanger in question is replaceable (as most are these days), just keep a fresh spare - and whenever your rear derailure gets too finicky swap the old hanger for a new one. If the problem goes away, there you have it.

    Not that I wouldn't like having that nifty gadget. I'm a sucker for tools.
  • 04-07-2012
    muzzanic
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    Option to an alignment tool... Assuming the rear derailure hanger in question is replaceable (as most are these days), just keep a fresh spare - and whenever your rear derailure gets too finicky swap the old hanger for a new one. If the problem goes away, there you have it.

    Not that I wouldn't like having that nifty gadget. I'm a sucker for tools.

    :madman::madman:

    Replacing a new hanger with a new hanger isn't going to change anything.

    I'm yet to see a new hanger on any bike be 100 % true to the wheel.
  • 04-07-2012
    Miker J
    Ok...
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    :madman::madman:

    Replacing a new hanger with a new hanger isn't going to change anything.

    I'm yet to see a new hanger on any bike be 100 % true to the wheel.

    I was thinking of when the "suspect hanger" may have been in a bit of a banger. That said, the real tool is likely the best way to go.
  • 04-07-2012
    Jaybo
    I bet the cable are run wrong through that goofy cable system.
  • 04-07-2012
    800lbgorilla
    I think Andrea and Muzzazinc are right--needs a fresh set of hands to look at it, including cable running. Should be no problems with a nearly new XTR 9sp setup (assuming cables and housing are new). My 2x10 and my wife's 3x10 work beautifully.
  • 04-08-2012
    Miker J
    Since I've been riding a RIP I can see Niner knows what they are doing as it's a great bike. However, I think their cable routing is overly complex. Maybe Niner is looking at this thread and will take note. Maybe just running the routing under the bottom of the TT and down the rear seat stays (for the rear der. and brake) would be more direct. Specialized's method of routing everything under the downtube gives the cleanest look but takes more cable and its not the most direct. That method does give the added benefit of allowing the cable to act as sort of "protector" for rocks thrown up at the down tube from the front tire.
  • 04-09-2012
    PlanB
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by FASTK View Post
    Got my RDO back in January, moved my nearly new Shimano XTR drive train 9sp, triple over and had one good ride so far where the shifting wasn't a complete nightmare. The front derailleur shift is a manual-matic process of moving the shifter, then dismounting the bike to manually lift the chain to the next bigger chain ring.

    The rear dérailleur just ghost shifts constantly, my shop has tried all new cables and housings twice and shortening and lengthening the housing to no effect. <sigh>.:madman:

    I am actively trying to sell my XTR drive train to replace it with SRAM as that seems to work for the other RDO owners in my area.

    Good news is that last night Niner responded that there is a shift upgrade kit available for the RDO to address issues.

    Has anyone had similar issues? How did you fix it? Did you install this kit?

    On my first RDO ride this weekend the bike was ghost shifting (in the rear) a lot at first. I had pretty carefully cut the housing to a length that I thought would be perfect. But no... it seemed way too short and caused ghost shifting when the suspension compressed heavily.

    Then it just stopped. When I checked it out on the trail I noticed that the little cable inserts that go into the chainstay where the housing enters had slipped out. I shoved a wee bit of the housing loop at the rear derailleur into the chainstay to give more slack under the BB then put the inserts back in to keep the housing in place. It's been good since. With the housing able to move a little it sort of "found" how much slack it needed under the BB.

    Just a thought before you rip the housing out. See if you have any slack to spare at the derailleur and shove it in.

    No idea what this shift kit thing is but I'm curious.
  • 04-09-2012
    FASTK
    Thanks all for the suggestions, Niner shipped the shift upgrade kit out on Friday, I'll let you know what it is soonest and try to snap a photo too. Shop is now checking RD alignment as suggested here.
  • 04-09-2012
    FASTK
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    What chain are you running ?

    I have found with a KMC chain you have to be closer with your setup or it doesn;t change as nice as a XTR chain.

    But other than that had no problems ( with 4 RDO's ), That said all needed to have the derailieur hanger setup square before I could get nice changing.

    On all bikes I go back after 3 of 4 weeks of riding when things have settled down & reset the hanger.

    I think your luck will change when you get someone good to look at it, If they cant even get the front shifting right there is little hope of them working out the back.

    Also check that the free hub has no play.

    Running Shimano's XT chain.

    BTW, I also have a Niner RIP setup with 9sp XTR, it runs perfectly. Its been keeping me riding while the RDO is at the shop.
  • 04-11-2012
    eleventhcog
    shifting woes
    I also have been unsuccessful at getting the RD (SRAM X0, 10speed) to swift well on my RDO. I did my cables as per Niner website. I meticulously measured & re-measured the rear housing length and then used the small plastic inserts that "fix" the housing within the chainstay. Result: no ghost shifting, but shifting was very slow & took lots of extra half-shifts to get adequate RD movement.

    My mechanic reworks all the cables, & this time skips using the small plastic inserts on chainstay -- says he was informed that they were not necessary. Results: shifting response is better (not good), and now there is ghost shifting with heavy rear suspension travel.

    Question to others: did you use these inserts that "fix" the housing within the chainstay, or skip this to allow the rear housing to "float"?

    I will have to inquire about this shifting fix kit & recheck RD alignment.
  • 04-11-2012
    FASTK
    Here the aforementioned Niner RDO shift upgrade kit for my Jet9 RDO. Looks like plastic tube and plastic grommets for the frame holes.



    Won't be installed until later today or tomorrow, hoping and praying for a good outcome.
  • 04-11-2012
    Niner Bikes
    2 Attachment(s)
    Ninerds -

    We at Niner appreciate your feedback and input when it comes to our bikes - it is based on this feedback that we have created a Shift Kit for the Jet 9 RDO. This kit is designed to make your bike set up easier by eliminating the need to determine rear triangle housing length.

    This kit includes a 110mm piece of 4mm shift housing and two ferrules that are designed specifically to fit into the chainstay. You will then have bare cable inside the chainstay.

    These kits are ready to send out to anyone that currently owns a Jet9 RDO - shipped on request to your dealer, at no charge. If you do not have a dealer nearby (or distributor if you are not in the USA & Canada), send a self addressed stamped envelope to:

    NINER BIKES
    ATTN: Jet9RDO Shift Kit
    1611 S College Ave Unit 202
    Ft. Collins, CO 80525

    We recommend that everyone with a Jet9 RDO uses this kit, it makes set-up and tuning precise and trouble free.


    Thank you for oyur support.

    Thanks,
    Ralph
  • 04-11-2012
    FASTK
    Ok RDO Owners,

    Got my RDO back from the shop with the shift upgrade kit installed. Everything working well during my 10 minute test ride. I can now understand where the issue was in the chain stay. The shift kit reremoved about 18 inches of cable housing.

    My FD is fast and smooth, not related to the shift kit, just better setup. The RD is now clicking cleanly into gear is much less effort at the shifter.

    The real test will come this Saturday, so I'll update then as well but so far so good.:thumbsup:
  • 04-11-2012
    gfs69
    Good to hear! Now let's ride!
  • 04-12-2012
    sand0kan
    How do you have setup the shiftercables in the badge btw?

    Do you have them crossed or not?

    Let me explain what i mean. If you sit on the bike does your rearshifter cable go in the hole in badge on the left or the richt.

    I am asking this because if you cross the cables they also cross internally in the frame. Does this effect shifting or not?

    I have installed them non-crossed.
  • 04-12-2012
    muzzanic
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by sand0kan View Post
    How do you have setup the shiftercables in the badge btw?

    Do you have them crossed or not?

    Let me explain what i mean. If you sit on the bike does your rearshifter cable go in the hole in badge on the left or the richt.

    I am asking this because if you cross the cables they also cross internally in the frame. Does this effect shifting or not?

    I have installed them non-crossed.

    My 1 is crossed & my wifes 1 isn't & they both shift fine.
  • 04-12-2012
    sand0kan
    Muzzanic the RDO wikipedia :D
  • 04-13-2012
    FASTK
    Crossed at the head badge
  • 04-13-2012
    FASTK
    The new maiden voyage on the trail with the RDO went fine. The shifting difference is night and day. Use the Niner shift upgrade kit.

    Thanks all for your responses!
  • 04-13-2012
    eleven-yo
    thats funny stuff: The Upgrade Kit upgrades your new bike from not working to working. We recommend it!
  • 04-13-2012
    FoCo29er
    My jet rdo works great as it is but ill more than happily get a free upgrade to make it better!
  • 04-13-2012
    Dry Side
    I am going to leave mine "AS IS" with the rear der shifter cable housing in the chain stay. Not having any issues at all (SRAM X0) and it will make it easier when the time comes to replace the the shifter cable to feed in the new one through the existing housing.
  • 04-14-2012
    duffin
    I remember reading somewhere there is a video that shows the technique to feed cables into badge to derailleurs. Anyone?
  • 04-14-2012
    Dry Side
    Jet 9 RDO Cable Installation - YouTube


    Although this one shows cable housing the complete length of the chain stay.
  • 04-21-2012
    Dry Side
    Updated RDO cable install video ..

    Niner Tech: Jet 9 RDO Cable Installation - YouTube
  • 04-25-2012
    FASTK
    My RDO update - Took a trip south for 4 days of mountain biking. Had no issues with the shifting since the new shift upgrade kit was installed, loving the new Jet9 RDO.
  • 04-26-2012
    duffin
    I had to replace rear cable due to fraying when routing through chain stay. Now I am having a hard time routing down main tube out bottom bracket. Anyone have good tips?
  • 04-26-2012
    muzzanic
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by duffin View Post
    I had to replace rear cable due to fraying when routing through chain stay. Now I am having a hard time routing down main tube out bottom bracket. Anyone have good tips?

    It is easyer to push the thin cable liner that came with the frame up from the bottom to the top, then thread the inner cable through that then remove the liner.
  • 04-26-2012
    duffin
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    It is easyer to push the thin cable liner that came with the frame up from the bottom to the top, then thread the inner cable through that then remove the liner.

    Liner is gone, but maybe I will try housing.
  • 04-26-2012
    JMH
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by duffin View Post
    Liner is gone, but maybe I will try housing.

    Good call. I use an old scrap of housing, approx 2-3 feet long, for all cable-replacement duties. Speeds things up dramatically.
  • 04-27-2012
    duffin
    Cable and housing replacement went super smooth using cable housing as a feeder since liners long gone.

    I also learned that 100mm is the correct length to run the short housing from BB to chain stay on a Medium shift kit which is shorter than Niner recommendation. Any longer, the housing binds with travel.
  • 04-27-2012
    Niner Bikes
    I would not recommend cutting the cable housing any shorter than 110mm. This measurement is very specific and rear shifting will be affected negatively by a piece of housing cut shorter than this. This kit was designed to take the guess work out of the length of housing running under the bottom bracket and to prevent the possibility of ghost shifting when the suspension compresses.

    Brad
  • 04-27-2012
    duffin
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Niner Bikes View Post
    I would not recommend cutting the cable housing any shorter than 110mm. This measurement is very specific and rear shifting will be affected negatively by a piece of housing cut shorter than this. This kit was designed to take the guess work out of the length of housing running under the bottom bracket and to prevent the possibility of ghost shifting when the suspension compresses.

    Brad

    I don't see how.

    When I installed the 110mm length, the cable was very twisted into curved bends and got worse when the rear triangle traveled on its arc. Looked smooshed (technical term) like a figure S.

    The 100mm length is truer run into the chain stay from BB and works well with the rear triangle arc without a figure S.

    I put a ferrule on the BB end and your Niner angled ferrule on the chain stay end which may be affecting length.

    I have the older M frame.
  • 05-05-2012
    gr8crash
    Changing a group becauseits not shifting correct? That's is a mechanic issue. I run xtr on my ni.er jet and my Tallboy and it shifts perfect, get someone else to wrench for you

    Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
  • 05-06-2012
    gfs69
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by gr8crash View Post
    Changing a group becauseits not shifting correct? That's is a mechanic issue. I run xtr on my ni.er jet and my Tallboy and it shifts perfect, get someone else to wrench for you

    Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

    Niner sent him a "shift upgrade kit", and it fixed his problem.
  • 07-14-2012
    llamma
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Niner Bikes View Post
    Ninerds -

    We at Niner appreciate your feedback and input when it comes to our bikes - it is based on this feedback that we have created a Shift Kit for the Jet 9 RDO. This kit is designed to make your bike set up easier by eliminating the need to determine rear triangle housing length.

    This kit includes a 110mm piece of 4mm shift housing and two ferrules that are designed specifically to fit into the chainstay. You will then have bare cable inside the chainstay.

    These kits are ready to send out to anyone that currently owns a Jet9 RDO - shipped on request to your dealer, at no charge. If you do not have a dealer nearby (or distributor if you are not in the USA & Canada), send a self addressed stamped envelope to:

    NINER BIKES
    ATTN: Jet9RDO Shift Kit
    1611 S College Ave Unit 202
    Ft. Collins, CO 80525

    We recommend that everyone with a Jet9 RDO uses this kit, it makes set-up and tuning precise and trouble free.


    Thank you for oyur support.

    Thanks,
    Ralph



    My RDO frame came with 8 ferrules in a bag. Can I just use 2 of them and my own 110mm piece of Jagwire Ripcord cable housing instead? That's essential the same thing, correct? In fact, does that say "Jagwire" in the image? The resolution's too low to tell.
  • 07-15-2012
    duffin
    Yes - also consider a durable housing ferrule where cable comes out of bottom bracket.
  • 07-20-2012
    Noclutch
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Niner Bikes View Post
    I would not recommend cutting the cable housing any shorter than 110mm. This measurement is very specific and rear shifting will be affected negatively by a piece of housing cut shorter than this. This kit was designed to take the guess work out of the length of housing running under the bottom bracket and to prevent the possibility of ghost shifting when the suspension compresses.

    Brad

    Well I don't know who is researching this optimal length for the cable between frame and triangle, but I don't think that it is quite figured out yet.....

    I got the "shift kit" provided by Niner and installed it as part of a rebuild. The 110mm (didn't measure it) segment of housing looked to be about 10mm shorter (didn't measure this difference either) than the previously exposed section of full CS length cable it was replacing. The result is ghost shift downshift and back attempt near the end of the suspension travel, and is worst when say pedaling through a g-out roller. This suspension cycling shifting action can be replicated on the stand with the shock removed too :madman:
    And while I sorta like the idea of the short segment vs full CS length housing, on my bike it appears that a longer segment is needed. Replacing it tonight with a longer peice- not a task in itself :rolleyes:
    FWIW YMMV RDO'ers
  • 07-20-2012
    Noclutch
    As a quick follow-up to my mini-rant from this morning.
    I changed out the 110mm piece of Shimano housing that came with the grommets from Niner as the "kit" with 120mm of Jagwire that I had originally built with full length.
    Two observations: 1) the Shimano housing is MUCH more rigid/less pliable than the Jag and even though longer it was much easier to install- the short Shimano was a struggle, Jag a breeze despite being longer and 2) after putting in 120mm of Jag and cycling the rear through it's travel the housing appears much more still and not moving nearly as much as before especially near full stroke. Driveway test ride shifting was flawless....trails tomorrow , but I have no reason to expect a problem :)

    So, while 110 may be recommended, in my experience 120 looks to work better, and maybe more importantly using a good grade housing is required.
  • 07-20-2012
    llamma
    ^ I'll be completing my RDO build by doing the cabling today. Did you have much trouble getting the Jagwire housing into the special Niner ferrules? Mine seems almost too large of a diameter to fit into the ferrule. Not only is Shimano housing more rigid/less pliable, but it seems to be smaller in diameter, too.

    Also, when routing the external housing from the shifters during the initial install did you cross the cables across the head badge like Niner recommends? If so, were the plastic guide tubes already crossed as well? My guide tubes are not, and I can't figure out why Niner would tell us to do this and then install the guide tubes the wrong way.
  • 07-21-2012
    muzzanic
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by llamma View Post
    ^ I'll be completing my RDO build by doing the cabling today. Did you have much trouble getting the Jagwire housing into the special Niner ferrules? Mine seems almost too large of a diameter to fit into the ferrule. Not only is Shimano housing more rigid/less pliable, but it seems to be smaller in diameter, too.

    Also, when routing the external housing from the shifters during the initial install did you cross the cables across the head badge like Niner recommends? If so, were the plastic guide tubes already crossed as well? My guide tubes are not, and I can't figure out why Niner would tell us to do this and then install the guide tubes the wrong way.

    Hi
    I have mine crossed & my wifes ones are not, My friends bike didn't have them cross & he does lots of miles & found that all the tuning was just to much for the non crossed cables & they needed replacing before time.

    easyest way to work out what inner cable tube to use is just pull it back & forward a bit at both ends & it is easy to work out which is which.

    I fit shimano ends on Jag wire cable outer all the time with no problems. Check that you have gear cable & not brake cable, The brake cable outer is bigger.
  • 07-21-2012
    Noclutch
    llama- I can't help you regarding crossing as I'm running 1x :p
    The Niner ferrules are snug on Jag housing- on one of my ends I actually peeled 1cm of clear/cosmetic layer off as it was burred and it fit a bit easier. The other I just forced in anyways- but yea- you def want it well seated lest you have an adjustment problem when it does settle in. I also used one of the Jag sheathed cable ends at the RDR end. I used one at the frame end last go round and the sheath had separated from cable end after 1k miles but wasn't hurting my shifting.
  • 07-21-2012
    llamma
    Noclutch, thanks for the confirmation


    Quote:

    Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    Hi
    I have mine crossed & my wifes ones are not, My friends bike didn't have them cross & he does lots of miles & found that all the tuning was just to much for the non crossed cables & they needed replacing before time.

    easyest way to work out what inner cable tube to use is just pull it back & forward a bit at both ends & it is easy to work out which is which.

    I fit shimano ends on Jag wire cable outer all the time with no problems. Check that you have gear cable & not brake cable, The brake cable outer is bigger.

    I'm assuming meant "all the turning" because I had already guessed there would be a lot of strain on the cable housings if I didn't cross them. I already know that my guide tube on the drive side of the head badge comes out on the drive side of the BB, which is the opposite of what Niner recommends. I guess I'll just need to drop my fork and swap the guide tubes around from inside the head tube. Thanks for the info. As for the ferrules/ends, I'm referring to the special Niner "frame end stop ferrules" that come with the frame. They're shown in Niner's shift kit picture earlier in the thread. They're needed in the head badge and the chain stay.
  • 07-26-2012
    llamma
    For anyone that cares, I ended up dropping the fork and swapping the guide tubes around so that the cables cross. I had to drill out all of the special Niner frame end stop ferrules to get the Jagwire cables to fit in them. I tried using a 110mm piece of Jagwire housing + Jagwire ferrule + Niner ferrule for the BB-chuck-to-chainstay section, but whenever I would cycle the rear suspension the housing would pop out of the ferrule as if it were too short. I tested 2 different sections of 120mm Jagwire housing and didn't have the problem, so I went with 120mm. Even after 2 rides and a lot of adjusting I still have some shifting problems around 2-3-4 (from tallest gear), so I'm thinking I might take some time and try a 115mm piece of housing.
  • 07-26-2012
    muzzanic
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by llamma View Post
    For anyone that cares, I ended up dropping the fork and swapping the guide tubes around so that the cables cross. I had to drill out all of the special Niner frame end stop ferrules to get the Jagwire cables to fit in them. I tried using a 110mm piece of Jagwire housing + Jagwire ferrule + Niner ferrule for the BB-chuck-to-chainstay section, but whenever I would cycle the rear suspension the housing would pop out of the ferrule as if it were too short. I tested 2 different sections of 120mm Jagwire housing and didn't have the problem, so I went with 120mm. Even after 2 rides and a lot of adjusting I still have some shifting problems around 2-3-4 (from tallest gear), so I'm thinking I might take some time and try a 115mm piece of housing.

    Are you sure your hanger is stright ?

    I got 1 of the 1st RDO's & I'm still on my 1st set of cables & it still shifts fine.
  • 07-26-2012
    llamma
    Yep, had my local mechanic double check it, and the hanger is straight. Also, when the bike is on the stand it shifts perfectly every time. The shifting problem is random while I ride, so that's why I'm thinking it's a cable issue. If I can't solve it with a shorter section of Jagwire housing I'll just give in and go with a 110mm piece of Shimano housing and ferrule.

    Even the RDO that I rode at the demo put on by Niner itself had shifting problems. I'm just having so much fun riding it at the moment that it's not bothering me too much currently. If I just go faster and keep out of those gears I don't have a problem!
  • 07-26-2012
    ejreyes6
    Remove bolt from top of shock. Cycle suspension fully extended to
    Fully compressed. Do you see the cable housing pull out of the chain stay? If so your cable housing is too short.
    I just put my rdo together and originally cut the cable to short. And the bike would shift
    When the suspension was compressed. If your riding the bike and compress the suspension do
    You see the derailuer move on its own?
  • 07-30-2012
    Noclutch
    llamma- sorry to hear about your woes still- ghost shifting sux and a potential hazard...
    FWIW I'm using 120mm Jag housing, the 2 "kit" ferrules stuck in the chainstay, Jag ferrules at BB and RDR and no shifting issues since. As mentioned above, also watch the housing when cycling the suspension and there should also be minimal bending of the housing at the BB, too. When I was using 110mm of shimano it wasn't popping out of the CS, but kinking at the BB that caused binding and shift issues.
  • 08-05-2012
    jbmcgehee
    Anyone used Nokon cable housing ??? Yay, nay, comments
  • 09-25-2012
    jhkvt
    Someone asked this earlier but didn't see an answer. Is the "kit" just a 110mm piece of housing and 2 more of the angled ferrules that come with the frame, or are the kit ferrules "special" to better stay in place in the chainstay where the housing enters near the BB and exits near the RD?
  • 09-25-2012
    FASTK
    I started this thread. Would like to update everyone on my Jet9 RDO since the shift upgrade kit installed many months ago.

    Perfect, haven't done anything but clean the bike since the upgrade. Just rode it at Rothrock in State College this past weekend. The suspension got a heavy workout over all those rocks and so did the shifting, Everything is still great with the bike.

    Too often not enough is said about a positive outcome, so I'm going on record that I'm extremely happy with the bike.
  • 09-25-2012
    gfs69
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by FASTK View Post
    I started this thread. Would like to update everyone on my Jet9 RDO since the shift upgrade kit installed many months ago.

    Perfect, haven't done anything but clean the bike since the upgrade. Just rode it at Rothrock in State College this past weekend. The suspension got a heavy workout over all those rocks and so did the shifting, Everything is still great with the bike.

    Too often not enough is said about a positive outcome, so I'm going on record that I'm extremely happy with the bike.

    Nice avatar!
  • 09-25-2012
    duffin
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jhkvt View Post
    Someone asked this earlier but didn't see an answer. Is the "kit" just a 110mm piece of housing and 2 more of the angled ferrules that come with the frame, or are the kit ferrules "special" to better stay in place in the chainstay where the housing enters near the BB and exits near the RD?

    The answer is yes.

    I have XTR rear der and abandoned the kit. I went back to a longer housing that passes through the chain stay which helps put pressure on the BB end to keep it in place while having a more straight or direct run between chain stay and BB.

    I've run into other RDO owners who say their Shimano setup is touchy. Perhaps it has something to do with the fact that Shimano's pull ratio is 2:1 while SRAM is 1:1 (or so I am told).
  • 09-25-2012
    Buadyen
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by duffin View Post
    The answer is yes.

    I have XTR rear der and abandoned the kit. I went back to a longer housing that passes through the chain stay which helps put pressure on the BB end to keep it in place while having a more straight or direct run between chain stay and BB.

    I've run into other RDO owners who say their Shimano setup is touchy. Perhaps it has something to do with the fact that Shimano's pull ratio is 2:1 while SRAM is 1:1 (or so I am told).

    There might be something to that... I have an XT drivetrain and my RDO has the ghost shifting problem. I don't have the shift kit, but the housing between the BB and chainstay is 110mm (my LBS is working on getting the shift kit.)

    I ran into another RDO owner this weekend (his RDO was built by the same LBS) and asked him if he had ghost shifting problems. He said he didn't. I didn't get a chance to talk to him further, but his bike was built with a higher end SRAM kit (X0 or XX, I don't remember exactly.)
  • 09-25-2012
    llamma
    So I still haven't re-cabled the rear, and I've been riding mine around with wonky shifting. I had previously been riding relatively non-technical trails, and I rode fast and stayed out of the taller gears where the problem happened the most. Lately I've started riding some really nice technically trails, and I think other riders can probably hear my cursing every time I try to shift. Well, they might have a hard time hearing it over all the popping and grinding as I try to downshift on the climbs. I'm hesitant to pull everything part and replace it with 110mm of Shimano cable if that's not really going to fix my issue. Is full housing from BB to RD the answer?

    Also, I believe the shift kit is 110mm Shimano housing, 1x special Niner ferrule, and 1x regular Shimano end ferrule. IIRC the Niner ferrule doesn't fit into the hole under the BB.
  • 09-26-2012
    PlanB
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by llamma View Post
    So I still haven't re-cabled the rear, and I've been riding mine around with wonky shifting. I had previously been riding relatively non-technical trails, and I rode fast and stayed out of the taller gears where the problem happened the most. Lately I've started riding some really nice technically trails, and I think other riders can probably hear my cursing every time I try to shift. Well, they might have a hard time hearing it over all the popping and grinding as I try to downshift on the climbs. I'm hesitant to pull everything part and replace it with 110mm of Shimano cable if that's not really going to fix my issue. Is full housing from BB to RD the answer?

    Also, I believe the shift kit is 110mm Shimano housing, 1x special Niner ferrule, and 1x regular Shimano end ferrule. IIRC the Niner ferrule doesn't fit into the hole under the BB.

    The shift kit should solve any ghost-shifting issues. It basically guarantees that the section of housing from the BB to the first hole in the chainstay is the correct length. Sounds like yours is currently too short or not anchored to the chainstay and moving around. This causes ghost shifting as the suspension moves.

    One possible issue is that the holes in your chainstay have been worn and enlarged by the constantly moving cable housing. In which case the shift kit ferrules may be a slightly loose fit. I believe this is the case with my frame as the shift kit ferrules have twice now been "sucked" up into the chainstay when downshifting under load. Not sure what the solution will be for this issue. I'm currently running a continuous housing on the outside of my chainstay and it's the lightest-action shifting this bike has had yet. It was supposed to be a temporary solution but I might just leave it like that.
  • 09-26-2012
    llamma
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by PlanB View Post
    The shift kit should solve any ghost-shifting issues. It basically guarantees that the section of housing from the BB to the first hole in the chainstay is the correct length. Sounds like yours is currently too short or not anchored to the chainstay and moving around. This causes ghost shifting as the suspension moves.

    One possible issue is that the holes in your chainstay have been worn and enlarged by the constantly moving cable housing. In which case the shift kit ferrules may be a slightly loose fit. I believe this is the case with my frame as the shift kit ferrules have twice now been "sucked" up into the chainstay when downshifting under load. Not sure what the solution will be for this issue. I'm currently running a continuous housing on the outside of my chainstay and it's the lightest-action shifting this bike has had yet. It was supposed to be a temporary solution but I might just leave it like that.

    I'm actually running 120mm of Jagwire housing, a Jagwire ferrule at the BB, and a Niner ferrule at the chainstay. The Jagwire housing fits VERY tightly into the Niner ferrules--so much so that I actually drilled them out. They seem to be staying put. Ghost shifting isn't actually my problem. The problem is I'll adjust the RD on the stand and it will shift perfectly, then I'll go ride and it will refuse to shift, especially downshift, around gears 1-4. One click will get me chattering, then another click will skip the next gear entirely. I can almost never get it into the gear I want/need. My mechanic says the hanger is straight, and he and I have both adjusted the RD a few times with the same results.

    If I run full housing *through* the chainstay do I risk damaging the holes?
  • 09-26-2012
    PlanB
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by llamma View Post
    I'm actually running 120mm of Jagwire housing, a Jagwire ferrule at the BB, and a Niner ferrule at the chainstay. The Jagwire housing fits VERY tightly into the Niner ferrules--so much so that I actually drilled them out. They seem to be staying put. Ghost shifting isn't actually my problem. The problem is I'll adjust the RD on the stand and it will shift perfectly, then I'll go ride and it will refuse to shift, especially downshift, around gears 1-4. One click will get me chattering, then another click will skip the next gear entirely. I can almost never get it into the gear I want/need. My mechanic says the hanger is straight, and he and I have both adjusted the RD a few times with the same results.

    If I run full housing *through* the chainstay do I risk damaging the holes?

    Sorry -- I misunderstood you -- I thought you were already running continuous housing throught the chainstay. Niner no longer recommends this as it is prone to enlarging the holes in the chainstay.

    Regarding your problem -- 4mm housing should fit easily into the shift kit ferrules. Are you using 4mm housing? Jagwire does make 4.5mm housing (I believe all of the "braided" looking stuff is 4.5mm). This would explain you having to drill out the ferrules. I would start over again with a 110mm section of 4mm housing, new shift kit ferrules and a careful cable installation.
  • 09-27-2012
    jhkvt
    I installed a homemade "kit" (110mm jagwire housing, generic ferrule in BB chuck, and niner shaped ferrule both ends of chainstay). Bad ghost shifting when hard pedaling during suspension compression. Must be a cable tension loosening effect b/c the ghost shift is from lighter cogs on cassette to heavier (ex: 34t to 32t, etc). Will not repliicate on stand w shock disconnect and cycling suspension. Ready to abandon kit and go w full chqinstay housing but worried about harming carbon which was asked earlier but not answered. Any thoughts?
  • 09-28-2012
    PlanB
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jhkvt View Post
    I installed a homemade "kit" (110mm jagwire housing, generic ferrule in BB chuck, and niner shaped ferrule both ends of chainstay). Bad ghost shifting when hard pedaling during suspension compression. Must be a cable tension loosening effect b/c the ghost shift is from lighter cogs on cassette to heavier (ex: 34t to 32t, etc). Will not repliicate on stand w shock disconnect and cycling suspension. Ready to abandon kit and go w full chqinstay housing but worried about harming carbon which was asked earlier but not answered. Any thoughts?

    Well Niner recommends against their original routing (full cable housing through the chainstay.) In another thread they explain that the housing, particularly in muddy conditions, can wear on the carbon chainstay and cause damage. I believe this has happened to my frame. I did not ride the frame much before the shift kit was introduced but it seems the holes in my chainstays must be enlarged as the shift kit ferrules have twice now slipped into the frame while shifting to low gears under load. Awful. Before that the shift kit worked fine -- better than the continuous run in the chainstay. No real ghost shifting -- so it's possible to get it set up right. Right now I have a contnuous run zip-tied to the top of my chainstay and it works better than any of the internal set ups. It angers me to look at it though!
  • 09-28-2012
    jhkvt
    Sorry to hear about your carbon wear. I looked at a Specialized Transition in the LBS. That carbon bike has continuous run housing through the frame and it uses a rubber grommet (housing openings at both ends as opposed to a ferrule with housing opening at only one end) which squeezes around the housing where it exits the chainstay. I was thinking I could use something like this (see image) if I can get in the chainstay. BUT, the fact you're saying full length housing thru the chainstay was not as good as with the kit is disturbing and making me rethink whether to try or try the kit again. Did you go with exact 110mm?
  • 10-02-2012
    jhkvt
    I ended up installing 120mm shimano 4mm and seems good but need to trail test it. It was tough getting more rigid (than jagwire) cable in but now that its in it seems more secure in place.
  • 10-02-2012
    Jaybo
    Screw internal cable routing.
  • 10-11-2012
    jhkvt
    I finally got a good real trails test ride after installing a "shift kit" with 2 ferrules plus 120mm of 4mm shimano housing from the BB chuck to the rear chainstay. I was careful to do my best not to kink the derailleur cable which may have been a problem with my previous shift kit attempts. The good news is it worked fine, no more ghost shifting. FYI I finally took a look at my friend's Jet 9 RDO on the same ride and saw that he has continuous housing from the BB chuck, through the chainstay, all the way to the rear derailleur. He has never had rear shifting problems with his set-up
  • 10-11-2012
    azpoolguy
    I just built my Jet9 RDO last weekend . I was worried about the cable routing and shifting issues. I used 110mm of Shimamo housing and the supplied cable ends from Niner between the chainstay and BB puck. I have a very light shifting bike with an X-9 shifter and derailuer. I had zero ghost shifting and could shift up three gears under a light pedal load while climbing with no problems.
  • 10-14-2012
    kzodwallop
    I built up my Jet 9 RDO using left over Jagwire shifter housing (which I think is 4.5 mm OD and I used 110 mm with the aluminum ferrule and Niner frame ferrule) and had plenty of ghost shifting problems as the suspension soaked up bumps. I ended up using 110 mm of 4mm OD campagnolo 11 speed shifter housing (as that's all I had available) with an aluminum ferrule at the BB and the Niner frame ferrule at the chain stay. Rode the bike today and had no problems at all.

    I think it comes down to the diameter of your shifter housing and how well it fits into the ferrules and remains seated during suspension travel (assuming the length is equal).
  • 11-14-2012
    Appendage
    Just run it on the outside
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by PlanB View Post
    I'm currently running a continuous housing on the outside of my chainstay and it's the lightest-action shifting this bike has had yet. It was supposed to be a temporary solution but I might just leave it like that.

    I just bought a used RDO via the classifieds and had to assemble it. After reading all the tales of woe in this thread and staring intently at the RDO's nether regions, I decided to run full length housing OUTSIDE, along the top of the chainstay. Today I rode 22 miles in very rocky territory and everything worked perfectly. I tried to provoke it into ghost shifting but it was rock solid. If there's a drawback to this approach, I don't see it. Time will tell.

    Notes:
    1. The housing must able to slide fore and aft along the chainstay as the swingarm cycles through its travel. Do not anchor it firmly to the stay. Right now I'm using a single cable tie about midway on the stay, tight enough so the cable tie doesn't migrate but loose enough so the housing can slide under it. I plan to replace the cable tie with a wrap-around chainstay protector and run the cable inside it.
    2. This arrangement relieves the sharp bends in the housing. Shifter action is light and easy.
    3. Installation is easy. No wrestling with short, stiff segments of housing that have to be just the right length, special ferrules, etc.
    4. I'm running XT 2x10. Cables are not crossed at the head tube.

    Now I just have to figure out how to plug the holes in the chainstay. Suggestions?
  • 11-20-2012
    kuykendallc
    Can someone post a picture of what the shift kit is supposed to look like installed? When I install the 110mm piece of housing, there are way too many bends and the shifting is terrible in the 4 biggest cogs. Thanks.
  • 11-20-2012
    Appendage
    Save yourself the heartburn
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kuykendallc View Post
    Can someone post a picture of what the shift kit is supposed to look like installed? When I install the 110mm piece of housing, there are way too many bends and the shifting is terrible in the 4 biggest cogs. Thanks.

    Dude, it's a bad design that's not worth the trouble. Run full-length housing outside the chainstay (as described in the previous post) and shift happily ever after.
  • 11-20-2012
    muzzanic
    2 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kuykendallc View Post
    Can someone post a picture of what the shift kit is supposed to look like installed? When I install the 110mm piece of housing, there are way too many bends and the shifting is terrible in the 4 biggest cogs. Thanks.

    Here is how I do mine & have not had any problems.

    The cable length I use is 120mm
  • 11-21-2012
    kuykendallc
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Appendage View Post
    Dude, it's a bad design that's not worth the trouble. Run full-length housing outside the chainstay (as described in the previous post) and shift happily ever after.

    Looks terrible, will only do that as a last resort.
  • 11-21-2012
    kuykendallc
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    Here is how I do mine & have not had any problems.

    The cable length I use is 120mm

    Thanks muzz, looks like a cork screw, is that correct?
  • 11-21-2012
    PlanB
    I agree that the external housing on top of the chainstay looks lousy. Especially with the new derailleurs that don't require much in the way of chain slap protection on the frame. Unfortunately it's the only reliable set up I've found with this design.

    My plan for next year is to go back to the internal full length housing from the bb chuck to the r. der. The problem with that set up was that the housing tended to move around shortening the crucial bit between the chuck and chainstay and causing shifting issues for some. As well, the plastic frame inserts would pop out and allow the housing to start sawing into the carbon chainstay....

    To remedy this I'm going to run the housing through the chainstay using the original plastic sleeve inserts and then create "bumps" on the housing that would prevent it from sliding around. I'm thinking it wouldn't take much (maybe a few wraps of hockey stick tape on the housing?) The housing is anchored securely at the bb and derailleur end and these two points take all of the force from shifting. The "bumps" on the housing just prevent gradual migration from suspension movement.

    Can't see why it wouldn't work. The shift kit -- at least in my experience -- is prone to failure and I no longer want to risk using it. The external routing is ugly. Hopefully this will solve both issues.
  • 11-21-2012
    Appendage
    Seems like a good remedy but you're still going to have the added friction caused by the corkscrew between the chainstay and the chuck. I also would anticipate rapid wear of the housing liner in the corkscrew. What price beauty?
  • 11-21-2012
    kuykendallc
    I had the full length housing until a few weeks ago and switched to the shift kit. Have had shifting issues since. The mechanic that installed the full length did not use plastic sleeve inserts and the housing started wearing away the carbon (I also don't know if they were thrown away or not). I will try setting the shift kit up properly again. Hopefully it works.
  • 11-21-2012
    muzzanic
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kuykendallc View Post
    Thanks muzz, looks like a cork screw, is that correct?

    Yes kind of.
  • 11-21-2012
    PlanB
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Appendage View Post
    Seems like a good remedy but you're still going to have the added friction caused by the corkscrew between the chainstay and the chuck. I also would anticipate rapid wear of the housing liner in the corkscrew. What price beauty?

    True. I do think the external run on top of the chainstay lightens the shifting somewhat by taking out some of the kinks. It would be nice if the housing could somehow run on the underside of the chainstay. The lower linkage gets in the way though.

    If my " bump" on the housing strategy does end up being reliable I think I might drill out the headbadge/BB chuck and run one big piece of housing. This would make cable changes a simple task. As it is now I dread doing it. Especially during a stage race or something. Lose a cable endcap and a frayed cable turns into a major overhaul...
  • 11-21-2012
    Appendage
    I keep looking at that lower link and wondering if it would be possible to machine a slot for the housing to pass through. That would make it possible to route the cable on the bottom of the chainstay. Not willing to risk it, though.
  • 11-25-2012
    lonefrontranger
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kzodwallop View Post
    I built up my Jet 9 RDO using left over Jagwire shifter housing (which I think is 4.5 mm OD and I used 110 mm with the aluminum ferrule and Niner frame ferrule) and had plenty of ghost shifting problems as the suspension soaked up bumps. I ended up using 110 mm of 4mm OD campagnolo 11 speed shifter housing (as that's all I had available) with an aluminum ferrule at the BB and the Niner frame ferrule at the chain stay. Rode the bike today and had no problems at all.

    I think it comes down to the diameter of your shifter housing and how well it fits into the ferrules and remains seated during suspension travel (assuming the length is equal).

    to all those having shifting troubles, we both setup our Jet 9 RDOs like this after kzodwallop discovered that the campy 11 speed shifter housing (4.0mm OD) worked.

    We have not had any shifting trouble since. We both had ghost shifting prior. I think the housing was not properly seating in the ferrules.

    I rode mine 20 miles over fast rough terrain on Friday and had zero problems with it.

    -- kzodwallop's wife
  • 11-25-2012
    Appendage
    Don't think of it as ugly
    Think of it as beautifully simple, easy and effective.
  • 12-15-2012
    kuykendallc
    Finally took the rdo out after doing the muzzanic method. Shifted terribly at first and then was perfect after everything seated.
  • 01-21-2013
    goodoljake
    I have a new XL with XTR 2x10 set up. followed routing instructions exactly and have a couple issues. 1) dropping down into the 11 tooth on the cassette is very difficult. 2) Also, seems i have chainline issues with the smaller two cogs in back and the small ring up front. the actual angle causes the chain to hit ramps on the larger ring up front. finally. planning to swap drivetrains with my hardtail to put sram on here and the shimano on the hardtail. please advise if anyone has had the same issues resolved with a drivetrain change. i know it sounds crazy, but i am a pretty decent wrench and have never had this issue with any other set ups and am simply stumped.
  • 01-22-2013
    PlanB
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by goodoljake View Post
    I have a new XL with XTR 2x10 set up. followed routing instructions exactly and have a couple issues. 1) dropping down into the 11 tooth on the cassette is very difficult. 2) Also, seems i have chainline issues with the smaller two cogs in back and the small ring up front. the actual angle causes the chain to hit ramps on the larger ring up front. finally. planning to swap drivetrains with my hardtail to put sram on here and the shimano on the hardtail. please advise if anyone has had the same issues resolved with a drivetrain change. i know it sounds crazy, but i am a pretty decent wrench and have never had this issue with any other set ups and am simply stumped.


    Every 2x10 set up I've ever used (on a variety of bikes) has had issues with using the bottom couple of cogs while in the small ring. Chain rubs big ring, sometimes the big ring will try to pick up the chain etc. They aren't really "good" gear combos anyway.

    As for you having trouble dropping to the 11 cog... not sure... I'm thinking you've already checked the usual stuff like: hanger alignment, high limit screw etc. Must be a chain tension issue somewhere.

    Either way - I wouldn't scrap the XTR stuff just yet. It's definitely workable. I have two friends running XTR double set-ups on RDOs with no problems. It's winter here so their actual riding has been minimal but initial set up and shake-down rides went just fine. Have faith!

    Question: which PF30 adapter are you using?
  • 03-22-2013
    Wildebeast
    I just built up my new frame and am having some issues as well. Went with the jagwire L3 housing. First off this housing does seem larger as I cannot match it up into the niner ferrules. Second I went with just under 120 of housing length, probably closer to 115, as I could not get it to bend at the 120. I finally got it all set up and set the whole drivetrain up. It wasn't terrible, abut it definitely was not smooth. I took it for a quick ride and shifting was not great. Figured the new system needs to seat correctly. I have all 10 spd xt with xtr rear mech and a triple up front.

    Decided to take it out for a quick trail ride to see if I could get it to set right. Could not go into big ring out back without shifting and grinding problems. Kept out of that for awhile but keep trying to get into work occasionally. Pedaling very lightly uphill and snapped my brand new xt chain. Not sure where the torque came from but it definitely ripped it apart. Coasted home and here I am today.

    Put a kmc quick link in and am trying to figure out the shifting again. It seems very violent on the up shifts and just really jerky. Perhaps this is where my new chain snapped? Still in stand and scratching my head.

    Do you think that I just have a shifting setup issue outside of the cable routing? Will try and align der. Hanger and set up rear dérailleur again. Any thoughts on what is going on here? Have not had any ghost shifting issues yet, probably due to lack of use more than anything. Thanks for the help.
  • 03-22-2013
    muzzanic
    It sounds more like a gear setup problem than a cable one.



    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Wildebeast View Post
    I just built up my new frame and am having some issues as well. Went with the jagwire L3 housing. First off this housing does seem larger as I cannot match it up into the niner ferrules. Second I went with just under 120 of housing length, probably closer to 115, as I could not get it to bend at the 120. I finally got it all set up and set the whole drivetrain up. It wasn't terrible, abut it definitely was not smooth. I took it for a quick ride and shifting was not great. Figured the new system needs to seat correctly. I have all 10 spd xt with xtr rear mech and a triple up front.

    Decided to take it out for a quick trail ride to see if I could get it to set right. Could not go into big ring out back without shifting and grinding problems. Kept out of that for awhile but keep trying to get into work occasionally. Pedaling very lightly uphill and snapped my brand new xt chain. Not sure where the torque came from but it definitely ripped it apart. Coasted home and here I am today.

    Put a kmc quick link in and am trying to figure out the shifting again. It seems very violent on the up shifts and just really jerky. Perhaps this is where my new chain snapped? Still in stand and scratching my head.

    Do you think that I just have a shifting setup issue outside of the cable routing? Will try and align der. Hanger and set up rear dérailleur again. Any thoughts on what is going on here? Have not had any ghost shifting issues yet, probably due to lack of use more than anything. Thanks for the help.

  • 03-22-2013
    PlanB
    The shifting should be smooth. It will require more force at the shift lever than some set ups and the ferrules may fail, but it should smoothly shift into whatever gear you select if you've set it up correctly. The routing sucks, there's no denying it, but it can be made to work acceptably. I also can't see it having anything to do with your chain snapping.

    I would start by checking the Jagwire housing. They do make a 4.5mm diameter housing (I think it looks "braided") that would cause seating issues with the ferrules and inconsistent shifting.

    Also, did your chain break at the connecting pin? Could be that it wasn't installed correctly (they can be tricky.)

    Lastly: order the new shift kit. You're running the set up with the proprietary ferrules and exposed cable in the chainstay right? The new solution looks like a winner.
  • 03-22-2013
    AZmtncycler
    I would recommend you go to this thread and swap over to full length housing and be done with it...
    http://forums.mtbr.com/niner-bikes/j...-809740-3.html
  • 03-22-2013
    Wildebeast
    I know I don't have the braided lines and it is just the generic shift housing I bought 10' at the lbs. I do have the special ferrules and have tried to set up everything according to the niner tech video and all of the great tips on here about the 110-120 length. Will try and see if hanger is straight and everything else as it seems to be unrelated to the cables but rather with the shifting itself.
  • 05-16-2013
    Jaybo
    The internal cable routing sucks and the kit is a PITA to install. Niner needs to dump the internal cable routing and go with external so us garage mechanics don't have to fight our bikes to get it to shift correctly. Niner needs to throw in the towel and run the cables externally!
  • 05-16-2013
    Appendage
    It doesn't matter if Niner throws in the towel. Just run it external.