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  1. #1
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    Jet RDO New Cable Routing

    23.13lbs as shown, minus another 0.29lbs when I get my new wheels! Finally got the thru axle end caps I needed for the back wheel. Check out the new cable routing! Also notice anything about the brake rotors?

    Photos:
    https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...8530788&type=1

  2. #2
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    Can't open the link. Is this new routing on the 2013 model?

  3. #3
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    Nice looking build and nice low weight! The new cable routing is similar to what I rigged up on my own for my 2012 Jet RDO build, or at least it looks similar because I only had one cable to route.

    Quote Originally Posted by herothedog View Post
    23.13lbs as shown, minus another 0.29lbs when I get my new wheels! Finally got the thru axle end caps I needed for the back wheel. Check out the new cable routing! Also notice anything about the brake rotors?

    Photos:
    https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...8530788&type=1

  4. #4
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    It is the latest Jet RDO just shipping, Niner doesn't use model years though. Here are is a different link: Jet RDO II

  5. #5
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    Wow...that routing is soooo much better. Makes me want the new frame just for that!!

  6. #6
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    The old routing is working out fine for me, but it took some trial and error to get it trouble free. The new approach does simplify installation and maintenance quite a bit. I am however a bit surprised they went full external on the rear triangle section as it seems like that section could have went back into the frame easily. The other models that route in that way go unshielded in that section.

  7. #7
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    I have it externally routed in a very similar way to this

  8. #8
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    As much as I love my Jet9 RDO, and Niner Bikes in general, I have to say it kind of angers me that the first generation frames ever came with the original routing in the first place. Hard to believe they tested extensively. If they did, I can't understand how they ever thought it was good. This new set up looks like a major improvement. Wish I was buying a frame now and not last year...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by PlanB View Post
    As much as I love my Jet9 RDO, and Niner Bikes in general, I have to say it kind of angers me that the first generation frames ever came with the original routing in the first place. Hard to believe they tested extensively. If they did, I can't understand how they ever thought it was good. This new set up looks like a major improvement. Wish I was buying a frame now and not last year...
    I just bought one a month ago (Green 2013?). Took it out for the first time last weekend and just had shifting troubles all ride. I'm kicking myself now.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by PlanB View Post
    As much as I love my Jet9 RDO, and Niner Bikes in general, I have to say it kind of angers me that the first generation frames ever came with the original routing in the first place. Hard to believe they tested extensively. If they did, I can't understand how they ever thought it was good. This new set up looks like a major improvement. Wish I was buying a frame now and not last year...
    I feel the same way. I am a huge Ninerd but wasnt too happy about spending what I did and then having to do the cable externally. When I get home tonight I'll take some pics of how I have it setup so people can give it a try if they want.

  11. #11
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    Just got off the phone with Niner. Check out pages 45/46 of their new manual:

    https://s3.amazonaws.com/NinerDocs/N...RS_UNIVERS.pdf

    There's a new kit being released to run full housing on all existing Jet 9 RDO's.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by D1PHAM View Post
    Just got off the phone with Niner. Check out pages 45/46 of their new manual:

    https://s3.amazonaws.com/NinerDocs/N...RS_UNIVERS.pdf

    There's a new kit being released to run full housing on all existing Jet 9 RDO's.
    I have a headbadge with cable stops. So, if I'm reading this correctly, I still go without housing until the BB and then use full housing through the chainstay instead of the most recent solution which required a 110m housing piece between the BB and swingarm, but then no housing until it exits the swingarm.

    If I'm not mistaken, didn't the 1st gen initial routing use housing from the BB to the rear der as they are now suggesting?

    Confused.

    Is there some new plastic thing ferrule/stop at the BB and chain stay to make this most recent fix work? Any idea when and how to get it from Niner?

  13. #13
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    I'm in the same situation as you -- headbadge with cable stops. I'll either drill it out or get a new headbadge when this kit becomes available.

    I think you're right in your understanding of the encyclopedia -- full housing run from the BB to r.der -- however this looks different from the first gen set up. This has the "housing" shims that should keep the housing in place (thus preventing ghost shifting and sawing of the frame) and also this "plastic tube" which is presumably more flexible than regular shift housing (jamming super stiff housing into that tight space often caused kinks.)

    I'm excited for this and also glad to see that Niner didn't leave the guinea pigs, I mean early customers, hanging.

    Any word on when it will be available?

  14. #14
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    Edit: Upon going back and re-reading it, I get it. You're installing the entire housing starting from the derailleur then out through the head badge - so it does look like you can run full housing and yet still have it internally in the frame. I actually like that.

    I to would like to get this new kit since I am just building up my Jet 9 RDO now.

  15. #15
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    Read it again. Specifically pages 45/46.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by WoodstockMTB View Post
    I have a headbadge with cable stops. So, if I'm reading this correctly, I still go without housing until the BB and then use full housing through the chainstay instead of the most recent solution which required a 110m housing piece between the BB and swingarm, but then no housing until it exits the swingarm.

    If I'm not mistaken, didn't the 1st gen initial routing use housing from the BB to the rear der as they are now suggesting?

    Confused.

    Is there some new plastic thing ferrule/stop at the BB and chain stay to make this most recent fix work? Any idea when and how to get it from Niner?



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mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} </style> <![endif]--> As requested by a percentage of Niner Jet 9 RDO riders, we have developed a full cable routing option for the aluminum headbadge Jet 9 RDO. This option utilizes a simple PVC spacer to maintain the correct housing/cable placement under the bottom bracket, and eliminates issues of housing contamination for riders in challenging conditions.

    Riders with the magnesium headbadge Jet 9 RDO, first generation frames with the stop built into the badge, and all Jet 9 RDO riders who do not want to run full length housing (as listed above) will also see significant benefits from this cable routing update. The PVC spacer maintains proper housing length under the bottom bracket, lengthens housing life and improves the performance of certain drivetrain systems.

    This system is available to all owners of Jet 9 RDO frames for free from Niner Bikes. Email service@ninerbikes.com with the subject line Jet 9 Cable Routing update. Please include your serial number and mailing address in the body of the email and we will get it right out to you. You may also work with your local Niner dealer.

    Installation instructions for this system are available here on pages 45-47. Please call or email us with any questions.

    All future editions of the Jet 9 RDO and Jet 9 Carbon will move to the same cable routing as shown on the current RIP 9 RDO.






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    Thanks,
    Brad
    .........

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    Niner Bikes

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  17. #17
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    I emailed Niner my info this morning and had a response in under two hours that they were shipping out the new shift kit parts. This should work out perfectly with my XX1 conversion arriving next week.

    I've had zero issues with the internal routing but less maintenance and smoother shifting is always appreciated.

  18. #18
    Daniel the Dog
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    I have a V1 Niner Jet 9 RDO and hate the cable routing. It negatively impacts my shifting and it kind of suck. I found my shifting to be far more accurate on my Jet 9 alloy. I still maintain that internal cable routing a is a solution looking for a problem.

  19. #19
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    V1.1 owner here. Currently running cables internal with the first shift kit they offered. I have mixed feelings. When its dialed in perfectly, it is impressive. After about 3 months, I did have one of the headbadge ferrules break/fail during a ride, which pulled the housing through it...lost the front der for the remainder of the ride. Not a huge deal, running a 2x crank and wasn't stranded..no need to try and fix on the trail.

    Brought it to my lbs. They called niner (had them answer a few questions I had myself as well) who said it was just a faulty ferrule and wasn't a common problem. Replaced the ferrule and has worked fine so far. I still had to pay labor. Oddly enough, when I received the frame, the pre-installed internal cable liners were reversed, and the shop installed it the same way the liners were installed.

    Basically, my right side shifter cable runs into the right headbadge opening/ left runs to left side. The niner manual says it is the incorrect way to do it. But when my shop called niner, they were told that it makes no difference if the cables are crossed at the headbadge, or not, both perform exactly the same, its been tested. So I left it as is since it would have cost me $ to reverse them and the bike is actually shifting better then ever. XTR der's, chain, & shifters, XT cassette, x9 bb30 cranks.

    Normally, I would run all the cables myself. I've done it numerous times on hardtail and fs bikes, externally routed. After hearing how tedious this job would be, I just gave the business to the local shop. It sucks because this frame is awesome and easily one of the best available right now. They can be set up correctly...just involves some trial and error...and well worth it. They even have a new kit available to run full length housing. They obviously should have had this stuff figured out before launching the bikes, but at least they are sending us replacements without hassle.

    If the new ferrule holds up, I'll probably run it this way for now. If it happens again, I'll try the full length option. But it's working perfect at the moment.

  20. #20
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    Anyone install the new kit yet. I just put my order in. I hope it smooths out my shifting.

  21. #21
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    What "new shift kit?" Haven't heard of this. Please post a link if you have one.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdog100 View Post
    Anyone install the new kit yet. I just put my order in. I hope it smooths out my shifting.
    Works great! Smooths out shifting, eliminates cable wear and tear at the headbadge and at the bottom bracket cable chuck.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheel-addict View Post
    What "new shift kit?" Haven't heard of this. Please post a link if you have one.
    See above ^^^ it is all in the thread.

  24. #24
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    Stupid me! Thanks.

  25. #25
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    I emailed them 3 days ago and already received my kit today in Florida. Awesome service. Now I just need to build the thing.

  26. #26
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    Just finish the new kit install. I went with the full housing just in the CS. Not sure what the purpose of the clear tubing is, but noticeably crisper shift with less effort. I'll hit the trails tomorrow with a report.
    E

  27. #27
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    So..maybe someone can confirm if I'm on the right page...looking at the niner routing diagram, the newest shift kit still runs the front der internally without housing...and the rear der runs a full length housing through the badge, inside the frame. Then once the housing comes out of the BB section, the housing stays externally routed to the rear der?

    Anyone have pics? For some reason I think I understand it in my head...but would really like a visual.

  28. #28
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    Look at page 45 to run it with a full housing
    Front to rear with the update kit, or just a full housing in the CS (page47)

    I doesn't stay externally on the rear triangle unless you have the latest frame.
    What frame do you have? If its the newest one you won't need the updaed shift kit.

  29. #29
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    Ok. Gotcha, thanks for clarifying. Mines the v1.1 and ran fine for 3 months till the ferrule broke and pulled the housing through the head badge. I used a new ferrule and it's shifting perfect again..but the new shift kit will definitely be my next method if something happens again.

    After reading other people's experiences, it's either very positive, or very negative...not really anything inbetween. Love hate relationship. If it were any other bike, it would probably be a deal breaker for me...but the j9 rdo is such a fast, nimble, and versatile bike...I don't think I'd be as happy on any other frame. I'd probably resort to ghetto rigging it with the shift cables run externally before looking for another bike.

    Look forward to hearing about the new shift options after guys put some decent mileage on it.

  30. #30
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    Three day turn around on my order also.
    I just need to get a long enough piece of housing to run the new kit.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by azpoolguy View Post
    Three day turn around on my order also.
    I just need to get a long enough piece of housing to run the new kit.
    Did that snake bite you? Where was that?

  32. #32
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    it does not come with a cable housing?

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdog100 View Post
    it does not come with a cable housing?
    No, it does not. I just used a new Jagwire 4mm housing and the new kit - it worked pretty well. I won't be able to really trail test the bike/shifting for a few weeks though.

  34. #34
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    Just installed the new kit. I have the headbadge without stops but chose to only have the housing go from BB to chainstay anyway. I wasted a whole lot of time trying to get that housing through the 100mm tubing...but eventually figured out to simply unbolt the bottom swingarm for the installation to work. Bike won't be built until the end of the month so won't know how this shifting will work for a while still. Here are shots from both angles.


  35. #35
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    A bummer Niner needs to come up with these way after the fact fixes, but big props for not abandoning a past product. Lots of companies just move on and let it go.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by azpoolguy View Post
    Three day turn around on my order also.
    Three days? Did you call or email? I'm getting zero response.

  37. #37
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    Sheesh. No one listens to me.

    Forget running housing or pvc pipe or anything else between the BB chuck and the hole in the chainstay. It's a bad design. Fuggedaboudit.

    The answer is so easy, but for some reason everyone wants to do it the hard way. As I've written before, all you need to do is run full length housing from the BB chuck to the RD outside and along the top the chainstay . Use a chainstay protector to hold it loosely in place, so that this entire section of housing slides for and aft with the suspension oscillation. Results:

    1. Elimination of sharp bends
    2. Light shifting action
    3. No ghost shifting
    4. Easy installation

    I've been running my RDO this way for 6 months and have had NO- as in ZERO- problems. No, it won't interfere with your chainrings, although it looks like it might. Okay, it's not pretty, but neither is a PVC tube. Sheesh, that thing is heinous, and I reckon compressing it affects the suspension action.
    Last edited by Appendage; 03-22-2013 at 08:33 AM.
    I dreamed I ate a 10 lb marshmallow. When I awoke, my pillow was gone.

  38. #38
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    That doesn't sound like such a bad idea right now. I have the "new" kit installed and although the shifting seems to work fine, it is very stiff shifting! I used a brand new Jagwire housing and lubed the cable prior to installation.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Appendage View Post
    It's all so easy, but for some everyone wants to make a fatally flawed design work. As I've written before, all you need to do is run full length housing outside and along the top the chainstay from the BB chuck to the RD. Use a chainstay protector to hold it loosely in place, so that this entire section of housing moves with the suspension oscillation. Results:
    1. Elimination of sharp bends
    2. Light shifting action
    3. No ghost shifting
    4. Easy installation

    I've been running my RDO this way for 6 months and have had NO- as in ZERO- shifting issues. Okay, it's not pretty, but neither is a PVC tube. Sheesh, that thing is heinous, and I reckon compressing it affects the suspension action.
    So, full housing in downtube? Then external to rear derailleur. I guess it depends on your head badge.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by slim2none View Post
    That doesn't sound like such a bad idea right now. I have the "new" kit installed and although the shifting seems to work fine, it is very stiff shifting! I used a brand new Jagwire housing and lubed the cable prior to installation.
    Here is how it's done: First Niner! Jet 9 RDO, XX1, I9 Torch 24 wheels, etc

    I have perfect shifting with the external routing and I even think it looks good!

  41. #41
    My gloves stink
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    I'm not running full housing in the DT, but I suppose you could.
    I dreamed I ate a 10 lb marshmallow. When I awoke, my pillow was gone.

  42. #42
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    The sharp bends required between the BB chuck and the chainstay produce an unacceptable amount of drag. Much more tension is required on the cable to move the RD. I'll bet that's why people were breaking ferrules. I'll also speculate that it's hard on shifters.
    I dreamed I ate a 10 lb marshmallow. When I awoke, my pillow was gone.

  43. #43
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    I emailed them 5 days ago and am still waiting. Was hoping to get it by this weekend so I could perform this upgrade.

  44. #44
    snowbound
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    I'm really looking forward to this. I had all the same shifting issues others experienced with the first gen, then the "upgrade kiit" helped somewhat, but after a few months it was ghost shifting again.
    If this doesn't work out - will definitely go with what appendage and wheel-addict have done. Thanks for sharing.

  45. #45
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    waiting for the upgrade kit as well. the ghost shifting come here n there.
    sometime it quite annoying... i have been building a couple of bikes myself and so far
    the routing of the ver 1.2 is some how of a let down .i do know that there are some guys that dont have this problems so maybe it bad luck on my part .

    if it doesnt work out,i just dump this off and get another frame.

  46. #46
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    Ya external routing is only way to get silk smooth shifting on this frame. Spent way too much time screwing with bottom housing.

  47. #47
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    [/QUOTE]

    What is the black piece at the BB cable chuck end of the 100mm clear tubing? It almost looks like the piece has been inserted into the tubing. Did you use the "stopper washer" from the kit?

  48. #48
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    I'm not sure what you guys are doing but mine has always been silky smooth & no shifting problems.


    Quote Originally Posted by bigdog100 View Post
    Ya external routing is only way to get silk smooth shifting on this frame. Spent way too much time screwing with bottom housing.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    I'm not sure what you guys are doing but mine has always been silky smooth & no shifting problems.
    well it depend. Niner must had gotten alot of feedback from riders out there to come out with upgrade kits and that is also why they are changing the layout of the routing on the newer bikes, they must have realise that the current layout is creating some issue for some of the riders.. be it 1% of the rider out there. or 10% of the riders out there.. an issue will be an issue..and it good to see that they are working out some solutions to sort this out
    i seen people who had encounter problem with thier bike the first day on the shifting.. and i also encounter people who didnt get any issue with the shifting. for me. the shifting come n goes when it pleases. so i guess luck might play a part.

    my opinion wise... the Niner Jet 9 Rdo is a good bike but there can be more improvment done on it and i think Niner are working or had work on them already..


  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    I'm not sure what you guys are doing but mine has always been silky smooth & no shifting problems.
    I guess this is a subjective thing... One man's "silky smooth" is another man's "high friction, high maintenance, unreliable headache." Put me in the second camp.

    It was good enough when everything was functioning properly but then everything failed when the ferrules gave up on working. This is purely down to a bad design (i.e. the tight bend between the BB chuck and chainstay and the ensuing stress on the ferrules.) Even Niner recognized this and made a drastic change on the new frames. The original design (and the "fix" for it) are full of problems that have nothing to do with people's mechanical abilities (as you imply.)

    As others have said, I'm glad they did not abandon the old design and I'm optimistic about the new kit.

  51. #51
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    How do we change the head badge? Will Niner provide that with the kit?

  52. #52
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    I got my kit, you do not change the head badge. There are different instructions for both head badge types. Mine installed and works pretty good compared to the interrupted setup from the last "kit"
    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    If I told you I saw a unicorn ****ing a leprechaun trail side, you'd probably be suspicious.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by frankbullitt View Post
    What is the black piece at the BB cable chuck end of the 100mm clear tubing? It almost looks like the piece has been inserted into the tubing. Did you use the "stopper washer" from the kit?[/QUOTE]

    It's just a 4mm housing ferrule. Gets a bit magnified by the clear tube.

  54. #54
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    I thought the housing ran full length from the derailleur up to the shifter? How could that be a housing ferrule?

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by epiphreddy View Post
    I thought the housing ran full length from the derailleur up to the shifter? How could that be a housing ferrule?
    its a cable stop so that the cable wont be constantly sliding in and out of the hole and start wearing out the carbon.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by epiphreddy View Post
    I thought the housing ran full length from the derailleur up to the shifter? How could that be a housing ferrule?
    If you're referring to my pix, I did not run it full housing. Only from BB to RD.

  57. #57
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    Oh, OK. So you basically did a partial "new updated" shift kit. You ran it from the shifter to the head tube with special ferrule at headtube, no housing inside of downtube to bottom bracket (just cable) and then normal ferrule from BB with housing and "new" ferrule at chainstay entrance with full housing inside chainstay to derailleur. I think I have the gist of it.

  58. #58
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    Exactly! Bike isn't built yet so I can't say how it's going to run. I despise full cable housing, too much friction and unnecessary weight. I'll give this a shot and IF it turns out to be bad like many posters say, I can always switch to full housing or outside routing. No biggie.

  59. #59
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    My kit is in route and hope to have it installed soon.

  60. #60
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    I am going to do mine this weekend. Weird that my bike shifted fine (with the older shift kit) and just recently started the ghost shifting. Only happens at about 1/2 to full compression. Shifts up one gear and then right back down with each movement. I suspect the new kit will remedy this situation once and for all. If not, I will do the full external route.

  61. #61
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    I installed mine last night while bolting on my new XX1 shifter and derailuer. There is some friction still when you thread the cable thru the house around the BB- swing arm area but it is a lot less then it was with the longer piece of housing at the junction with a greater bend to it.

    I never had any shifting issues before but was always worried about a broken cable ferral/stop out on the trail or during a race.

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by azpoolguy View Post
    I installed mine last night while bolting on my new XX1 shifter and derailuer. There is some friction still when you thread the cable thru the house around the BB- swing arm area but it is a lot less then it was with the longer piece of housing at the junction with a greater bend to it.

    I never had any shifting issues before but was always worried about a broken cable ferral/stop out on the trail or during a race.
    What do you mean there is some friction? You mean while installing or when you have it completed and are shifting you feel the friction? This looks to be a lot better setup than before. I have broken a ferrule and another friend who has one has to. Seems to be a pretty common problem.

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by epiphreddy View Post
    What do you mean there is some friction? You mean while installing or when you have it completed and are shifting you feel the friction ? This looks to be a lot better setup than before. I have broken a ferrule and another friend who has one has to. Seems to be a pretty common problem.
    There is some friction just when sliding the cable thru. Not as much as when I pulled the old small section out of the bb junction. My cable was only 6 months old but the cork screw bend and the bb did put some drag on the old cable routing.

    When shifting it has a much lighter feel to it. I'm not sure if it is the pulley in the XX1 derailuer or the new housing path or both.

  64. #64
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    What is the purpose of the clear tubing?

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by kuykendallc View Post
    What is the purpose of the clear tubing?
    Read Niner's post on page one.

  66. #66
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    OK - I received the kit this week. Having a hard time doing the installation. How do you run the housing from the BB up through and out the head tube badge? No way does it want to go through, and it just keeps getting stuck - not aligning with the hole in the head tube badge, but banging against the back of it.

    So far I ran a shifter cable through the liner all the way back through the rear chainstay. I removed the liners and just the shifter cable remains. I was able to run through the chainstay, no problem. Thought maybe I could run the housing up the shifter cable in the downtube, and use it as a guide. No go.

    Wait...did you guys remove the fork? Think that may just solve my problem and give me the access I need.

  67. #67
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    I was able to get mine thru with the fork on by just pushing the cable hard against the head tube badge while pushing the housing up from the BB. Do this before screwing the new BB chuck back in.

  68. #68
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    After installing the new Niner shift kit for the Jet9 RDO and swapping out my X-9 Trigger shifter and derailuer to XX1. I now have the lightest shifting, most persice and quietest drivetrain I've ever experienced.

  69. #69
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    Installed my new kit, full length. It works perfectly and this time I don't see any modes of failure like before. Mine worked very good before on many occasions but inevitably a ferrule would break or the housing would splinter and then break a ferrule, etc., etc. causing ghost shifts and all sorts of other problems. My last re-cabling lasted about a month. Riding in mud and then washing the bike I believe were the major causes of the ferrule/housing interfaces becoming contaminated, corroded, rusting and eventually failing. The new full length routing seems really good so far. There was a little friction installing the cable through the tight S bend, but now that it is in place it is smooth and perfect.

    When I installed the housing from the BB to the headtube I put the housing through the BB chuck and then taped the housing to the cable and pulled it up towards the headtube and then fished it out. Worked perfectly and was fairly easy in comparison to removing the fork, etc. Still a pain in the ass having to remove the shock bolt and remove the BB chuck small nut, but not too bad this time around. With the full length housing it should not need to be replaced other than maybe once a year...........let's hope at least!

  70. #70
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    I finally got around to installing the new kit on my 2013? (Green) RDO. To be honest, it was a serious PITA to get everything retrofitted. I went with the full housing option and it took a while to route/fish the housing through the frame. The most difficult part was getting the chainstay ferrule (closest to the BB) fully installed and seated. As stated above, there was some obvious tension routing the shifter cable through the S-bend. I found that adding a light dab of Tri-Flow into the housing prior to installing the shifter cable decreased the tension.

    I'll give the new setup a test later this week, however initial results are positive. It is just a little disconcerting that we pay top dollar for such a nice frame and are forced to retrofit them with tubes and plastic ferrules.
    Last edited by D1PHAM; 04-08-2013 at 08:54 PM.

  71. #71
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    The tube is there for extra protection. It does not have to be used. You would use either plastic or metal ferrules regardless of what frame you had. I am very pleased that Niner realized how crappy the previous setup was and came out with the new setup. If you use jagwire "slick" cables and high quality housing such as Jagwire L3 the friction is minimal. You can feel it when you push the cable through, but once installed it has a very light feeling to it.
    When I installed the full housing route I taped the existing cable to the new housing and pulled it up from the bottom bracket. Had to fish it out a little bit but all in all not too bad. This time around it took like 1 hour total versus several before. With full housing it should not need to be messed with for quite some time.

  72. #72
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    Re: Jet RDO New Cable Routing

    Quote Originally Posted by epiphreddy View Post
    The tube is there for extra protection. It does not have to be used. You would use either plastic or metal ferrules regardless of what frame you had. I am very pleased that Niner realized how crappy the previous setup was and came out with the new setup. If you use jagwire "slick" cables and high quality housing such as Jagwire L3 the friction is minimal. You can feel it when you push the cable through, but once installed it has a very light feeling to it.
    When I installed the full housing route I taped the existing cable to the new housing and pulled it up from the bottom bracket. Had to fish it out a little bit but all in all not too bad. This time around it took like 1 hour total versus several before. With full housing it should not need to be messed with for quite some time.
    Yup, good stuff. Used L3 housing and high quality cables as well. Took the bike out for a spin a few hours ago. Shifting functioned just fine.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by epiphreddy View Post
    The tube is there for extra protection. It does not have to be used. You would use either plastic or metal ferrules regardless of what frame you had. I am very pleased that Niner realized how crappy the previous setup was and came out with the new setup. If you use jagwire "slick" cables and high quality housing such as Jagwire L3 the friction is minimal. You can feel it when you push the cable through, but once installed it has a very light feeling to it.
    When I installed the full housing route I taped the existing cable to the new housing and pulled it up from the bottom bracket. Had to fish it out a little bit but all in all not too bad. This time around it took like 1 hour total versus several before. With full housing it should not need to be messed with for quite some time.
    The clear tube is very much functional and needs to be installed. It is NOT for extra protection. The clear tube ensures that the housing length does not change underneath the bottom bracket and prevents the housing from moving or sliding in and out of the chain stay. It is this movement and changing of the length of the housing while the suspension cycles that causes the ghost shifting. For the best results the clear tubing must be used in the installation. If you have any additional questions please contact us 877-646-3792 or service@ninerbikes.com.

    Thanks,
    Brad
    .........

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    Niner Bikes

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  74. #74
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    I've had about 4 rides on the new build so far. Zero shifting problems. Smooth as silk.

  75. #75
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    Geeze. I feel guilty for mine working just fine with the kit from last year...
    But when it's time to refurb or disassemble next I'll probably go full length external housing.
    Last edited by Noclutch; 05-09-2013 at 01:04 PM.

  76. #76
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    Re: Jet RDO New Cable Routing

    I finally installed the shift kit. It's better, but I still have some cable rub somewhere.

  77. #77
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    I ever had any shifting problems until the last week. Have XX with Grip Shift. I rarely use the front derailleur and I am thinking of a 1-10 or going 1-11. Tightened the front derailleur up the other day and am now having all kinds of problems. I think the cable cross is just enough to cause this problem. Loosen front shifter cable and see if it goes away and order new kit.



    When I first built up the bike I ran thru cable, but Niner said not to do this since it would wear the carbon where it enters/exits the frame so I ran it as they recommended. When I pulled the cable housing out, it did wear thru the plastic. Then I tried reaming out the Niner cable inserts, but this made them very thin and useless.



    Hopefully the problem is solved.

  78. #78
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    Well, I finally installed mine. All I have to say is that it works perfect. I think the problem was finally nailed with this updated kit.

  79. #79
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    Agreed! I finally got mine installed last week and it seems so much smoother. I really can't see how it could fail. I actually ended up drilling out my headbadge to run continuous housing all the way through the frame (I have the original headbadge with built-in stops.) I've heard this can lead to corrosion but I'll take my chances.

  80. #80
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    Mine started to make a noise yesterday near the frame chuck, so I installed the revised kit today. I have no cable stops in the head badge, so I now have one continuous housing from shifter to rear derailleur. The shifting is now much improved.

    I had no ghost shifting before, but the shifter was a a little stiff. Now it is very low effort and smooth. Props to Niner for coming up with a simple solution.

  81. #81
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    I recently called Niner and got the new kit being sent out. In the mean time, I cut the flat part off the existing cable stops, reamed them out to 4 mm, ran through cable on the rear and used the modified cable stops as cable guides to prevent the cable from wearing into the outer house and/or enlarging the entry/exit hole in the head badge/rear triangle.

  82. #82
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    Re: Jet RDO New Cable Routing

    Shifting is still awesome a month after installing the new kit.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

  83. #83
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    I must be the only one with the original J9RDO who is happy with the internal cable routing and had zero problems with it. SRAM X0 2x10.

  84. #84
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    Dry Side, do you ride in the mud often? Mine would work fine until one of the ferrules would break. I think riding in the mud and washing the bike caused the ferrule/housing interface to become corroded and eventually fail. I think the new shift kit will eliminate this problem. Mine works perfectly now and has for quite some time.

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dry Side View Post
    I must be the only one with the original J9RDO who is happy with the internal cable routing and had zero problems with it. SRAM X0 2x10.
    5 people in or riding group have them also & had no problems.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  86. #86
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    I don't ride mud. I ride dry dusty trails. So maybe that is why my J9RDO shifting has remained buttery smooth.

  87. #87
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    I would say that is absolutely the reason. I never had any issues until I hit the mud. I don't ride bad muddy conditions (at least try not to) but inevitably with the spring rains I end up in some areas where mud gets everywhere. With the new full housing system I hope this will be a thing of the past.

    Does anyone know if the V2 of the Jet RDO used a different cable routing?

  88. #88
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    The 1st of the V2 jet9 RDO are the same as V1, But I believe that they will all end up going with the same as the Rip9 RDO The newer Jet9 RDO & carbons are going that way now I beleave.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  89. #89
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    I got my new shift kit and installed it no problem. I didn't have any trouble with the original setup, but I was worried about breaking a ferrule in the middle of a race or in the middle of nowhere. The new setup has a little more drag, but seems to work great. Thanks for the support, Niner!

  90. #90
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    I'm not sure about the Jet Carbon but it was confirmed to me that my new Jet RDO will have cable routing just like the RIP RDO, full cable hosing from shifter to derailleur.
    RIDE MF RIDE,
    Scotto

  91. #91
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    I almost shed tears of joy when I rode my V1 J9RDO yesterday after the new full-cable-housing shift kit was installed. I never new the bike could shift that smoothly. I've always had shifting problems in the 10 months I've had the bike, and I've even learned to ride it that why by anticipating when it was or wasn't going to shift correctly. Coming up on a climb with the suspension currently loaded? Shift down 4 and that'll get me down 2 gears this time. Need to go faster? Hit the trigger until you hear it clunk. Now I need to relearn how to shift one gear at a time, but I'm so happy. Hopefully it all holds up.

  92. #92
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    All this routing problem will be solved when electronic shifting becomes available for Mtbs and at an affordable pricepoint.

  93. #93
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    Marginal improvement with installed kit on my v1. Shifts are certainly crisp but cable drag is still too much IMO.
    Hope to meet you on the trails!

    Gregg Soster
    Central Ohio Mountain Biking Organization - President

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by FASTK View Post
    Marginal improvement with installed kit on my v1. Shifts are certainly crisp but cable drag is still too much IMO.
    If you don't like it, just do full housing alongside the brake line into the bottom rocker and into the rear stay to the RD. I never even did the shift kit and went to this option and I can't imagine it working better. No issues with the housing getting int the way or rubbing anything.

  95. #95
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    What cable and housing did you use? I used Jagwire L3 housing and Jagwire Hyper Slick cables and mine works perfectly.

  96. #96
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    I called Niner, because I have a v1 frame and would have to drill out the head badge, it would void my warranty. Not going to do that.
    Hope to meet you on the trails!

    Gregg Soster
    Central Ohio Mountain Biking Organization - President

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by WoodstockMTB View Post
    If you don't like it, just do full housing alongside the brake line into the bottom rocker and into the rear stay to the RD. I never even did the shift kit and went to this option and I can't imagine it working better. No issues with the housing getting int the way or rubbing anything.
    Do you have a picture you could post of the routing around the BB area? I may want to try, if nothing else, to reduce the drag.

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by FASTK View Post
    I called Niner, because I have a v1 frame and would have to drill out the head badge, it would void my warranty. Not going to do that.
    I have a friend who got precisely the opposite information as you from Niner.
    If you break a chainstay or something I can't imagine them denying a claim based on you drilling out the headbadge a couple of millimeters...

  99. #99
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    Were those with problems having the shifting issues both front and rear?

  100. #100
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    Just rear due to a kinked cable. All is well now.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 4 Beta

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