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  1. #1
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    Jet RDO cable routing -- shift kit failure...

    This weekend I had an interesting mechanical breakdown in a 100km marathon race on my Jet 9 RDO. The plastic ferrule thingee that sticks in to the RDO chainstay at the derailleur appears to have either broken and fallen off or been sucked into the chainstay. Either way the housing has been pulled into the chainstay and is no longer anchored for tension... With next to no tension on the cable I was only able to access the first four cogs on my cassette. Not ideal on the big climbs.

    Anyone had this happens?

    I'm considering running a continuos housing from the bottom bracket to the r. der. Zip tied to the outside of the chainstay. Anyone doing this? I haven't looked at it too closely to see if this is feasible.

    Also, I have not really ridden the bike much with the original routing system before the shift kit "upgrade." How bad is the ghost shifting? Going back to this is an option.

    I don't know how much I trust the shift kit. I have a three day race coming up and I wan't the bike to be as reliable as possible.

    So far I have to say that the cable routing on this bike has been nothing but an eye-pleasing headache.

  2. #2
    COMBO - President
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    I would simply get another shift kit. My RDO was terrible without it but works great.
    Hope to meet you on the trails!

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  3. #3
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    Yeah I was okay with the shift kit once I accepted the increased cable drag... it's just that it pretty much completely failed in the middle of a big race last weekend and I don't want a repeat scenario. Hopefully this was a one-off?

  4. #4
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    This weekend a friends RDO with shift kit was continuously ghost shifting when hitting bumps then by the last ride it would not maintain a gear.

    Mine shifted ok, with the standard through the chainstay routing but I'm sure it is eating a hole in my swingarm from the cable moving with the suspension.

    Seems like a pretty horrible design, and shouldn't have to re-route the cables outside the chainstay on a nearly $3k frame.

  5. #5
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    I have alway run continuous housing from the cable chuck to the rear derailleur. I'm pretty sure this was the original intention as the shift kit wasn't out when I got my RDO. Be sure to get the rubber grommets needed for the cable routing into the chain stay, the one near the bottom bracket is essential otherwise the cable housing will wear on the carbon.

  6. #6
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    Installed another shift kit last night. What a nightmare. My girlfriend came by while I was doing so and was amazed to see that I had to remove my handlebars, fork, crankset, wheels and rear shock to change a derailleur cable... "Race Day Optimized"??? Hardly. Wouldn't be so bad if it was the once-a-season job I'd hoped it would be but it's been anything but. I just replaced everything two weeks ago.

    As I mentioned, the shift kit plastic ferrule at the rear derailleur had somehow slipped into my chainstay, completely screwing up my shifting in the middle of a big race. Yesterday I pulled everything apart and replaced all housing, cables and installed another shift kit. The messed up ferrule is now lost somewhere in my chainstay as it proved impossible to remove. I also noticed that many of the plastic ferrules -- including the other end of the shift kit were bent and/or cracked. I used Dura Ace housing/metal ferrules this time. We'll see. Hopefully the plastic shift kit bits hold up this time. My confidence is low. I'll keep an eye on it but I think I'll end up running full-length housing eventually.

    A buddy of mine is considering this bike. He's excited about the new pricing and he wants my opinion. At this point I'm having a hard time recommending it. If he had asked last night while I was dealing with this cable routing I would have no doubt told him to get a Specialized or something...

  7. #7
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    I installed a shift kit for a friend a week ago. I think it was super easy, you just need to have an internal routing "toolset". Its not really tools per say but methods that come in handy on internal frames. I got mine from working in a tri shop for a few years. Trust me guys, this frame is super easy compared to tri frames. What I did was thread an old piece of housing ovet he cable before removing it from the frame. That way when you get ready to put in the new cable all you need to do is run the cable through the old housing. I was able to install the kit in less than 30 minutes and I didnt need to remove the cranks, fork, handlebars, or anything else. I did undo the upper shock bolt to get more access to the bb though. Also, I think the shifting was way better with the kit installed. I know i sound a bit like a billboard but I hate to see people struggling on here when its really not hard once you have the method down.
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  8. #8
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    Oh I had the "tool kit" and followed the usual procedures. It wasn't exactly difficult -- more annoying -- but it was way more work than a cable/housing change should be. It's a mountain bike. This is standard stuff. Especially on a "race" bike. Cable change in the middle of a stage race? Yeah... My Cervelo time trial rig is much easier to work on and rarely needs housing replacement.

    I'm actually getting pretty good at it now... I find the fork removal a hassle but nowhere near as frustrating as trying to line up a piece of housing through the downtube to the head badge with the fork in the way. If the routing actually worked well I wouldn't mind doing all this. But... my experience has been that it's a lot of work, the shifting still kind of sucks and now the shifting "fix" broke.

  9. #9
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    If you use thinner more flexible cable housing it should help with the cracked/bent ferrel issues. I've found the Jagwire housing is working the best so far.

    I've been having to recable about every 30-60 days (except for when I broke my collarbone last fall). So, all in all I've recabled about eight times since July 2011. I agree that it is quite high maintenance... but as far as riding goes when everything is right it is a great race bike.

    I will have to figure out what to do for the Breck Epic next year though as I won't want to have to spend the time and effort to recable should an issue crop up. I'll have my hardtail for a backup, but if I have to resort to using it the discomfort level will likely exceed the fun level of six days of hard racing.

  10. #10
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    For a race like the Epic, I'd just do a temporary full length housing and zip tie/tape it to the frame. It won't win a beauty contest, but it won't screw up, either.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrea138 View Post
    For a race like the Epic, I'd just do a temporary full length housing and zip tie/tape it to the frame. It won't win a beauty contest, but it won't screw up, either.
    Ah yeah... good idea. It may end up that way before then!

  12. #12
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    I currently have a Jet 9 and have really been thinking of upgrading to the Jet RDO, but you guys are scaring me. I don't want to re-cable my bike every other month. If you run a full length cable won't this be good for 6 months or so???? Right now I probably install new housing/cables every 8 months or so. I ride about 5 to 6 hours a week on the MTB. I really don't have any experience or knowledge regarding the Jet RDO other than online gawking. Am I missing something?

  13. #13
    Carbon & Ti rule
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    I have had my Jet9 RDO ( Tang ) for just over a year now & built it up with black cables because the orange one's i ordered had not turned up, A year on & I haven't got around to fitting the orange cables yet as there has been no reason to change them.

    I haven't felt the need yet to even go to the new shift kit.

    So they can be set up with no problems & last.

  14. #14
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    Did you run full length housings as some people have mentioned?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by epiphreddy View Post
    Did you run full length housings as some people have mentioned?
    I have housing from the shifter to the head tube, then housing from the Bottom bracket through the chain stay & upto the rear derailieur, The trick is in the length between the BB & chain stay & using an end cap that won't let the cable kink at that point.

    I have built up 4 RDO's & not had a problem with any of them.

    I have not done it, but have thought that putting about a 2 inch long bit of teflon hose over the outside of the outer cable at the bottom end will mke the cable bend in a more uniform way as well if one thought they needed it.

  16. #16
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    It's not a deal breaker but it really is a bad design. It is silly complicated and increases drag just for aesthetics. Other manufacturers do it better and I would be surprised if Niner doesn't make improvements with future generations.

    I was okay with a complicated cable change every few months but the recent issue I had with the shift kit ferrules was a real problem. I hope it was a one-off. If it happens again I will run a full length of housing from the bb to the r.der.

    So I don't think you should avoid the bike because of the routing as the issues are manageable and not universal to all owners. It just sucks to have to deal with issues at all with something that should/could be so simple.

  17. #17
    Daniel the Dog
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    My Jet 9 RDO doesn't shift as snappy as my Jet 9 alloy did. The internal cable routing is another solution looking for a problem. I hate it!!! It is a pain to install and I can't find a reason for it except it looks cleaner. BB30 is in the same boat.

  18. #18
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    Guess I am lucky, no problems with RDO and BB30 or the shifting. Using SRAM X0 components.

    I don't use the shift kit, using full housing through the chain stay.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dry Side View Post
    Guess I am lucky, no problems with RDO and BB30 or the shifting. Using SRAM X0 components.

    I don't use the shift kit, using full housing through the chain stay.
    Does the housing slide right through the chainstay from end to end without modification?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by epiphreddy View Post
    Does the housing slide right through the chainstay from end to end without modification?
    It does but shifting is not always as precise as with the shift kit because the full housing can migrate towards the derailleur end, leaving a loop at the BB that is too short to handle bottom-out. We have also seen instances of very muddy cable housing damaging the opening of the housing hole near the BB. The shift kit was developed to protect against both of these potential troubles and is the only recommended/approved routing so definitely take advantage of it to protect your frame from damage.

    Give us a call at 877-NINERXC if you have questions about getting your shifting set up!
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  21. #21
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    Love Niner stuff, and my RIP is a great bike, but to hear how Niner continues to have issue with something as simple as cable routing and their EBBs really makes me scratch my head.

    When I look at and work on my Stumpy FSR, with it's full length, under the downtube cable routing, I cannot see a reason to do it any other way. Super neat, easy to work on, and the housing protects the frame just a bit from rocks.

    I'd like to get an RDO, but as someone who loves to wrench, quirky issues on a frame costing this much is hard to take.

    Clean this up Niner, please.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrea138 View Post
    For a race like the Epic, I'd just do a temporary full length housing and zip tie/tape it to the frame. It won't win a beauty contest, but it won't screw up, either.
    Just curious if anyone has tried this, and how they navigated to the RD. After numerous recabling attempts, both with and without the shifting "fix" kit, I am convinced the RDO will never shift well, or will ghost shift, on trails that stress the rear suspension. Huge design flaw.

    Needs routing similar to RIP 9, but I am unsure how to do this other than complete ghetto.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by eleventhcog View Post
    Just curious if anyone has tried this, and how they navigated to the RD. After numerous recabling attempts, both with and without the shifting "fix" kit, I am convinced the RDO will never shift well, or will ghost shift, on trails that stress the rear suspension. Huge design flaw.

    Needs routing similar to RIP 9, but I am unsure how to do this other than complete ghetto.
    You can get the cabling right. Mine shifts great running the cable housing the original way through the chainstay. The trick is once it's right, the next time it needs cabling is to do it exactly the same. Right now it seems the best setup for me uses Jagwire housing and nylon ferrels. So far everything is holding up quite well, better than before.

  24. #24
    Daniel the Dog
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    My Jet 9 RDO tore three of my toes off before I realized the damage had been done. This was done on one ride.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaybo View Post
    My Jet 9 RDO tore three of my toes off before I realized the damage had been done. This was done on one ride.
    Jaybo,
    You are in a mischievous mood today!
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