Jet 9 RDO XX1 Build...this one goes to eleven

First ride complete, I absolutely love this bike. This is also my first ground up build and I happen to be rather proud of it. It also gave me an excuse to buy some great tools (star nut setter, crown race setter, headset press...)

On the first go, my bb to chainstay housing was too short. I was banging my head against the wall, then I came here and read about 120mm housing. Re-cable the aft section, shifts perfectly.

Lastly, XX1 is just the trickest kit out there. Always having any gear on demand is going to make me lazy (or give me freedom to concentrate on other things.) If you have the means, I highly suggest picking it up.

Enough commentary. Build specs:

White Jet 9 RDO v1.1
SID XX fork
Cane Creek/Niner headset (had a red chris king ready, wont fit, oh well.)
Enve bars
Niner Rdo seatpost and 90mm stem
XTR brakes and 160 rotors
XX1 crank, rear d, chain, cassette
Stan's Crest rims built on DT 240s
Kenda Small block 8 tires running tubeless
Specialized Toupe saddle








Need to trim brake cables, and slam the stem. Still getting all adjusted.

I want to **** your bike.

They are Dame good arn't they.

That is one of the best bikes I have seen yet.

Great job! How do you like the SID? I am gathering parts for a very similar build but am struggling with fork choice.

Extremely nice!

Do you know what it weighs?

Thanks for the compliments all.

I cant believe i forgot to include weight!

23.6 lbs, and that is with some pretty heavy duty tires. With some racing ralphs I think it would shed a pound.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by schocka

Great job! How do you like the SID? I am gathering parts for a very similar build but am struggling with fork choice.

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I will pay the SID the best compliment I can give: I completely forgot about it while riding.

Coming from an older Lefty (hate it), remote lockout was super important to me because on the lefty, if I left it open after a descent it was like pedaling in sand.

Yesterday I took this thing to the park and abused it. I left it open all day and never thought about locking it. It just simply works. Absorbed everything I threw at it, and yet was somehow stiff enough to not notice when i was out of the saddle hammering.

Found it at Jensen on closeout at 399. I wanted a World cup, but couldnt justify the extra $500-$600 for a carbon steerer. After yesterday, convinced Ill never miss it.

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Originally Posted by muzzanic

They are Dame good arn't they.

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They are indeed.

Also many thanks again for the cable routing thread. I think that should be stickied so others like me dont waste a day of their life trying to figure out why their new bike wont shift into the small cogs.

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Originally Posted by Palmares

I will pay the SID the best compliment I can give: I completely forgot about it while riding.

Coming from an older Lefty (hate it), remote lockout was super important to me because on the lefty, if I left it open after a descent it was like pedaling in sand.

Yesterday I took this thing to the park and abused it. I left it open all day and never thought about locking it. It just simply works. Absorbed everything I threw at it, and yet was somehow stiff enough to not notice when i was out of the saddle hammering.

Found it at Jensen on closeout at 399. I wanted a World cup, but couldnt justify the extra $500-$600 for a carbon steerer. After yesterday, convinced Ill never miss it.

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that's a heck of a deal you got there. I am leaning towards the 2013 SID XX 120mm @ $660, unless I come across a better deal.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Palmares

Thanks for the compliments all.

I cant believe i forgot to include weight!

23.6 lbs, and that is with some pretty heavy duty tires. With some racing ralphs I think it would shed a pound.

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Sweet looking build, Palmares. Congrats on your 1st ever build from the frame up. Well done.:thumbsup:

In terms of tires, not sure about shedding a pound of weight loss going from Small Block 8's to Racing Ralphs. If you got the tubeless ready Small Block 8's (DTC - SCT), they average around 680g per tire. If you got the other ones (DTC), they average about 588g per tire.

Compare that to the Racing Ralph 2.25 with SS and tubeless ready average about 651g per tire, and without the SS (Snakeskin) they are about 565g per tire. Now if you are talking about the new tubeless ready 2.1 Racing Ralphs - they come in around 500g per tire. Regardless, you'd have to shed 454g in total tire weight to lose a pound and that's only feasible if you go to something like the Maxxlite 29 tires or Schwalbe Furious Fred tires.

Probably more important is to view the rolling resistance properties. Small Block 8's don't score as well as the Schwalbe tires (Ralphs, Rons, Nics) in these tests.

I wouldn't sweat it though with that build and overall bike weight. It looks great.

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Originally Posted by BruceBrown

.

Probably more important is to view the rolling resistance properties. Small Block 8's don't score as well as the Schwalbe tires (Ralphs, Rons, Nics) in these tests.

I wouldn't sweat it though with that build and overall bike weight. It looks great.

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Thanks, great article. I was all set to go with Schwalbe, but two of my riding buddies swear by the small blocks. We have extremely dry conditions here, leaving either scorched earth hardpan or very loose fine dry dirt and rock/gravel. Add to that tons of various thorny plants (mesquite, tubmleweeds, etc) and tire selection becomes tougher. They both (anecdotally) say they got more flats on racing ralphs. They said the kendas solved the problem, so in this case I went with local knowledge, despite being a data geek.

Im glad im not paying a weight penalty. Rolling resistance has to depend on the condititions, but man 15 watts is a lot.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Palmares

They are indeed.

Also many thanks again for the cable routing thread. I think that should be stickied so others like me dont waste a day of their life trying to figure out why their new bike wont shift into the small cogs.

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Nice build Palmares. Could you point me out to this specific thread you are referring to. I have read quite a few on the subject already but since things keep changing (go full housing, dont go full housing) I want to make sure I know the latest and what works the best.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by danvar

Nice build Palmares. Could you point me out to this specific thread you are referring to. I have read quite a few on the subject already but since things keep changing (go full housing, dont go full housing) I want to make sure I know the latest and what works the best.

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http://forums.mtbr.com/niner-bikes/j...-779892-4.html

Here is the one im referring to. On the last page muzzanic had pics of exactly how to do it. I did 120mm housing between bb and chainstay, no housing inside. Works great now.

Great looking bike! I'm going with XX1 on the Air 9 RDO that I'm currently building up, and can't wait to try it out!

How are the wheels treating you? I plan on going with the Crest/DT240s combo as well. I'm currently running Arch/DT240s wheels on my RIP 9, and like them a lot. Just not sure if I'll notice a difference (possible besides weight) with the Crests.

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Originally Posted by chrisgardner73

Great looking bike! I'm going with XX1 on the Air 9 RDO that I'm currently building up, and can't wait to try it out!

How are the wheels treating you? I plan on going with the Crest/DT240s combo as well. I'm currently running Arch/DT240s wheels on my RIP 9, and like them a lot. Just not sure if I'll notice a difference (possible besides weight) with the Crests.

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Ironically i have put my new xc build through the wringer this last week. I took a little new years trip and absolutely abused it on some really rough trails.

The wheels were great, super stiff, strong and light. 1590~ grams-ish. You'll love 'em.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Palmares

Ironically i have put my new xc build through the wringer this last week. I took a little new years trip and absolutely abused it on some really rough trails.

The wheels were great, super stiff, strong and light. 1590~ grams-ish. You'll love 'em.

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If you don't mind me asking, which bottom bracket did you go with? I'm still waiting for my frame to show up and starting to get all the components together. Im new to the whole bb30/pf30 thing and not sure if I understood niner correctly when i contacted them.

If you went with the bb30 cranks...do you know if you can press fit the bb30 bearings? Or will it need the pf30 bb? Just snagged the x9 jenson special as a temporary solution till I can save for xo or possibly a xx1 drivetrain. It came with the bb30 bb bearings and wasn't sure if they can be used on the j9 rdo. Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drz400sm

If you don't mind me asking, which bottom bracket did you go with? I'm still waiting for my frame to show up and starting to get all the components together. Im new to the whole bb30/pf30 thing and not sure if I understood niner correctly when i contacted them.

If you went with the bb30 cranks...do you know if you can press fit the bb30 bearings? Or will it need the pf30 bb? Just snagged the x9 jenson special as a temporary solution till I can save for xo or possibly a xx1 drivetrain. It came with the bb30 bb bearings and wasn't sure if they can be used on the j9 rdo. Thanks!

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If the crank that you have brought is a BB30 crank, You will need the Press fit 30 ( PF30 ) bottom bracket.

Bearings don't just press in on there own.

Beautiful bike!

Those SB8's are some of the scariest tires I've ever ridden. Rocket Ron or Racing Ralph FTW!

Palmares, Great looking bike!
What length are you running your fork at?

Thanks!

Beautiful bike! Love the Stone gargoyle! I'm working on a case of Stone Pale Ale, but I'm also a fan of Arrogant Bastard and Ruination. Cool to have that to look at during a ride!

who makes that water bottle cage? I've never seen anything like that...

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Originally Posted by mjduct

who makes that water bottle cage? I've never seen anything like that...

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Blackburn carbon cage I believe.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PHS

Palmares, Great looking bike!
What length are you running your fork at?

Thanks!

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Fork is 100mm. I considered 120 for "versatility" but went with the 100 for xc purebred. Turns out, Im real happy with it. I rode some of the gnarliest stuff I have ever done over new years, and it performed beautifully. No regrets.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by agoura_biker

Beautiful bike! Love the Stone gargoyle! I'm working on a case of Stone Pale Ale, but I'm also a fan of Arrogant Bastard and Ruination. Cool to have that to look at during a ride!

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Being a former San Diegan, Im a stone diehard. Im actually really into Levitation as my "training" beer. All of the goodness, less alcohol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PHS

Blackburn carbon cage I believe.

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True story. Pro bike kit christmas special, 50% off. Its like 15 pieces of flair all rolled into one.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Palmares

Fork is 100mm. I considered 120 for "versatility" but went with the 100 for xc purebred. Turns out, Im real happy with it. I rode some of the gnarliest stuff I have ever done over new years, and it performed beautifully. No regrets.

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Good to hear that you like the 100mm setting. I have a 2013 sid xx that I am going to put on the Jet RDO when built. I hear many people enjoy the 120mm setting but believe 100mm will be just fine for my area. I have the same color frame on it's way and gotta say your bike looks great!

PHS

Awesome build! I'm working on a similar setup right now too!...

May be an obvious question, but where do you get the sheath for the cable routing?

OP - I'm looking at building up an RDO almost identically to yours. I'm deciding drivetrain and would like any feedback on XX1 you've got. Thanks much.

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Originally Posted by DLine

OP - I'm looking at building up an RDO almost identically to yours. I'm deciding drivetrain and would like any feedback on XX1 you've got. Thanks much.

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XX1 is the truth broheim. Any gear on demand at anytime. Im running the 32x10-42 that it comes with, and have no desire for anything else. I raced last weekend, and never wanted for more on the low end or high end. Do it. You will be happy.

i just built an RDO last night with XX1. Gonna ride it tonight. Can't wait.

My 2912 all-black Jet 9 RDO frame from Bike Bling came into today! I managed to snag a Fox Float CTD 100mm in black as well (got from another source). Was going to do an XTR drivetrain, but am now thinking of XX1 after reading this. Please share any other thoughts you have on the XX1. I'm worried about the smaller range of gearing this will offer. I'm building this bike specifically for 50-100 mile endurance races where there will be a lot of climbing and some long flat sections. I went from years of freeride MTB to a year of road bike racing, and this will be my first year racing XC. I just don't have a good feel for what range of gears I'm going to need. Are you ever finding you have to slow-grind up some long/steep hills with the 32 in front? What type/length of races will you be doing with this setup?

Beautiful build BTW! This is the best looking build of J9RDO I've seen so far!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wheel-addict

My 2912 all-black Jet 9 RDO frame from Bike Bling came into today! I managed to snag a Fox Float CTD 100mm in black as well (got from another source). Was going to do an XTR drivetrain, but am now thinking of XX1 after reading this. Please share any other thoughts you have on the XX1. I'm worried about the smaller range of gearing this will offer. I'm building this bike specifically for 50-100 mile endurance races where there will be a lot of climbing and some long flat sections. I went from years of freeride MTB to a year of road bike racing, and this will be my first year racing XC. I just don't have a good feel for what range of gears I'm going to need. Are you ever finding you have to slow-grind up some long/steep hills with the 32 in front? What type/length of races will you be doing with this setup?

Beautiful build BTW! This is the best looking build of J9RDO I've seen so far!

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Well, if you gotten this far, you know Im a fan of xx1. I have raced one time so far - Miles of Disomfort half marathon. 27 miles of somewhat technical riding. As far as gearing, I was more than covered. In fact, I didnt spend any time in either extreme gear. 32-42 is PLENTY for me- its the same as 26-36. 32-10 is only needed on road sections, and even then only if its really flat or slightly descending. Obviously everyone is different, but Comfort is as technical a race as I will do, and a 32 front was perfect. If I will be racing any truly flatter/easier courses, I will probably get a 34 or 36 front to give me more on the road sections.

Anyway - to slightly correct you, xx1 does not offer a smaller range - it just offers a few less options in between. 32-42 and 32-10 very nearly mimic a standard 2x10 setup.

Thanks for the compliment to my ride. Its certainly taken some abuse since these pics.

32/10 is a pretty high gear---it is almost as high as 36/11. But, an XTR double 26/38 would offer an even higher gear at 38/11. I suppose there aren't too many courses out there where the full spread of gears would be needed. Leadville comes to mind. I've never had a MTB under 32 lbs, or with less than 150mm travel, so perhaps I'm too worried about needing low gears. I've become used to doing massive hill climbs on my road bike this last year and my lowest gear there is a 39/28!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Palmares

Anyway - to slightly correct you, xx1 does not offer a smaller range - it just offers a few less options in between. 32-42 and 32-10 very nearly mimic a standard 2x10 setup.

Thanks for the compliment to my ride. Its certainly taken some abuse since these pics.

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Well we are speaking the same language. Im more of a roadie anyway. I use a standard crank (53/39) usually with an 11-25 or 11-27 if very climbing centric. I spend way less time in the 32-42 than in the equivalent gear on my road bike. Youll be fine.

Ok, now that I know you're a fellow roadie, I'm no longer worried about gear range. I'm thinking of ordering the group from the shop today. One last question: have you heard any hint of "knocking" sounds coming from the clutch mechanism as the rear suspension cycles through its travel? This website and others are filled with _user_ reviews complaining about this in the X.9 and X.0 Type 2. Way to many people for comfort are saying to avoid X.9 and X.0 until SRAM sorts it out (ie catches up to Shimano engineering again). I'm _hoping_ that they have sorted out that issue with the XX1...

Damn. Should have Googled earlier: http://forums.mtbr.com/sram/xx1-knoc...ng-836175.html

Looks like SRAM has arsed up version 1 again. I'd feel better if the people having problems have found a solution, but so far nobody has anything to offer. It's not user servicable. One guy is thinking of buying a second one so that he can still ride his bike while SRAM is warrantying the other.

The XX1 on my Jet9 RDO is still super quiet & working very well.

That's good to hear, although it is still early days for most XX1 owners. If I do buy this, I'll for sure buy it from my LBS so that they can help me deal with SRAM if/when problems crop up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by muzzanic

The XX1 on my Jet9 RDO is still super quiet & working very well.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by wheel-addict

That's good to hear, although it is still early days for most XX1 owners. If I do buy this, I'll for sure buy it from my LBS so that they can help me deal with SRAM if/when problems crop up.

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Dude, I'm not discounting others opinions, but I just havent heard of anything like that. I know xtr is the default group that everybody loves, but I have 2 other friends (pro/cat 1 guys) riding xx1 and loving it. If my stuff ever "clunks" or doesnt shift perfectly, I usually point the finger at the wrench (me) as opposed to the manufacturer. The housing near the bb was giving me fits. Then I came here and fixed it. At the risk of sounding like a know it all, I bet the problem can be fixed via b screw tension. I think this is maybe one of the most important adjustments on these deraillers due to the high spring tension.

Xx1 is the trickest kit out there. You cant make everyone happy all the time. IMHO this is akin to the "sram red front derailleur isnt stiff enough" complaint on the last gen road stuff.

Either way, I took a whole page to say what muzz said. Mine runs great.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 501levi

i want to **** your bike.

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lmfao!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Palmares

Dude, I'm not discounting others opinions, but I just havent heard of anything like that. I know xtr is the default group that everybody loves, but I have 2 other friends (pro/cat 1 guys) riding xx1 and loving it...

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OK, I'm convinced! Going to place order today.

Did you xx1/Jet9RDO owners order the 156 or 168 mm q-factor XX1? How does clearance look?

I'd like to use a Stages Cycling left-crank arm power meter eventually, but there needs to be at least 10 mm of clearance between the middle section of the left crankarm and frame to accomodate the power meter. Stages only work with metal crankarms, so the current solution is buy a Cannondale Hollowgram crankset and a custom Hollowgram to XX1 spider such as this one: CANNONDALE Kurbel SET Hollowgram SiSL2 + 1-fach Sram XX1 Kettenblatt

If there's enough clearance, than I might order the Hollowgram crankset + XX1 spider instead of the XX1 crankset. If successful, I believe I'll have the first Jet9RDO + full XX1 + power meter combo.

Love this build and love it more because a Stone lover!
If you ever get the time, post some photos of that beast on the trail!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wheel-addict

OK, I'm convinced! Going to place order today.

Did you xx1/Jet9RDO owners order the 156 or 168 mm q-factor XX1? How does clearance look?

I'd like to use a Stages Cycling left-crank arm power meter eventually, but there needs to be at least 10 mm of clearance between the middle section of the left crankarm and frame to accomodate the power meter. Stages only work with metal crankarms, so the current solution is buy a Cannondale Hollowgram crankset and a custom Hollowgram to XX1 spider such as this one: CANNONDALE Kurbel SET Hollowgram SiSL2 + 1-fach Sram XX1 Kettenblatt

If there's enough clearance, than I might order the Hollowgram crankset + XX1 spider instead of the XX1 crankset. If successful, I believe I'll have the first Jet9RDO + full XX1 + power meter combo.

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156q with good clearance. Large v1.1 frame.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wheel-addict

OK, I'm convinced! Going to place order today.

Did you xx1/Jet9RDO owners order the 156 or 168 mm q-factor XX1? How does clearance look?

I'd like to use a Stages Cycling left-crank arm power meter eventually, but there needs to be at least 10 mm of clearance between the middle section of the left crankarm and frame to accomodate the power meter. Stages only work with metal crankarms, so the current solution is buy a Cannondale Hollowgram crankset and a custom Hollowgram to XX1 spider such as this one: CANNONDALE Kurbel SET Hollowgram SiSL2 + 1-fach Sram XX1 Kettenblatt


If there's enough clearance, than I might order the Hollowgram crankset + XX1 spider instead of the XX1 crankset. If successful, I believe I'll have the first Jet9RDO + full XX1 + power meter combo.

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156 q factor. I actually caught my calf a couple times on the zip tied brake cable (it runs on the outside of the frame.) I re-routed it on the inside of the rear triangle and i like it better. The narrow stance feels like my road bikes and I love it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AngelsAndBombs

Love this build and love it more because a Stone lover!
If you ever get the time, post some photos of that beast on the trail!

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Thanks brother. Its actually out of commish for a week or two. Having the wheels rebuilt, after trying to turn the rims square on a roll-in at the park. Guess I need a downhill bike now...

Just wondering what size the frame is?

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Originally Posted by RDylan

Just wondering what size the frame is?

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M. 5'10 150 lbs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wheel-addict

If there's enough clearance, than I might order the Hollowgram crankset + XX1 spider instead of the XX1 crankset. If successful, I believe I'll have the first Jet9RDO + full XX1 + power meter combo.

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Just saw a one-off XX1 srm at Austin Bikes. Guy who rides there had it made special. It was damn sexy. Made my wallet shed a lil' tear.

Does this setup drop the chain on the front ring at all? I had a 1x10 and it always dropped on techy stuff. Do I need a special BB adaptor for the xx1 crank or will this bolt right up to the Niner frame with xx1 BB?

Hi

I'm running the same setup on mine & I have never dropped a chain.

Just fit the standard BB & fit the XX1 cranks, No guide needed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bigdog100

Does this setup drop the chain on the front ring at all? I had a 1x10 and it always dropped on techy stuff. Do I need a special BB adaptor for the xx1 crank or will this bolt right up to the Niner frame with xx1 BB?

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Hey muzzanic, how many miles you have your XX1? Any rear derailleur clunking/creaking issue when your rear suspension cycles? Thanks!

Finally got mine built up and ready to roll. Well, after the snow melts. A bit under 24lbs.Attachment 775474

Where can I buy a wheel prebuilt with xx1 Hub? I am still not clear if I need that pf30 adaptor with the XX1 crank. When I look at xx1 group for sale on ebay what one do I need to get to fit the niner jet RDO? DLINE how much she weigh?

You can buy a new freehub body for SRAM and DT 240 hubs right now - for about 50 bucks. The swap took maybe 5 minutes. As for the BB - I ordered a PF30 BB and 156Q cranks, and they went on without a problem.

Only issue I have is that the factory threaded lines running through the frame may have been crossed to my head tube. As I look at everyone else's cable routing the right hand shifter cable crosses to the left hand side of the head tube badge, and mine doesn't, but I was just following the lines as they came from Niner.

It's at 24 lbs now, with some heavy tubes and a heavy saddle. Both on my list to change.

Nice looking build DLine! I just finished orderring all the parts for my own Jet9RDO XX1 build today. Hope to have everything in and bike built by next week. First race of the year is March 16, so I'm cutting it close now.

Where did you buy xx1 group? I also need a carbon stem and seatpost. Deciding on fox ctd or the xx or even theloop from white bros. What cane creek headset?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bigdog100

Where did you buy xx1 group? I also need a carbon stem and seatpost. Deciding on fox ctd or the xx or even theloop from white bros. What cane creek headset?

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My LBS was able to roughly match the prices at UniversalCycles on the XX1. XX1 is in high demand and many parts are starting to get backordered, so order soon.

I have spent _far_ too much time in the past weeks considering what parts to order. Ended up ordering the Syntace HiFlex P6 carbon post (amazing engineering and warranty) and Ritchey WCS Carbon C260 90mm stem (gorgeous!) and Enve sweep bars. Went with the Fox CTD 100mm fork in black.

Over 1000 km & not missed a beat,

I have a couple of friends that have XX1 on Rip9's & not had any problems either.

I think the Niner CVA is very friendly on clutch type derailieurs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cytoe

Hey muzzanic, how many miles you have your XX1? Any rear derailleur clunking/creaking issue when your rear suspension cycles? Thanks!

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Ok in truth I've had this for a little while, but didn't want to steal anyone's thunder. I actually had it set up 2x10, but had so much flex when I was mashing real hard I couldn't keep the chain on the big ring. Anyway, swapped over to XX1 and am hooked. Definitely going to be expensive trying to convert the other horses in my stable.

XL White Jet 9 RDO
Fox Float 120mm, Maxle
SRAM XX1 Drivetrain (BB30 Q168 & trigger shift)
Shimano XTR 988 Trail Brakeset
American Classic MTB Wheelset
Schwalbe Ron & Ralph
Niner Flat Top Bar, ESI Chunky Grips
Niner RDO Stem 110mm
Kind Shock Supernatural Seatpost 150mm drop, 435mm overall
Forte Pro SL Saddle
Shimano XT Pedals
26lbs (includes pedals, tubes, pump & cage)

I just called Universal and they said I need
SRAM XX1 Trigger Shift Kit-In-A-Box 175mm 166Q 32T BB30 Crankset 10-42 11 speed; Bottom Bracket Not Included
for the niner jet RDO
Not the Q168, I am confused what to order

You can use the 168Q, but are probably better off with the 156Q (narrower) for better pedaling efficiency. Jet9RDO accommodates both. You need to order the Truvativ PF30 Bottom Bracket and you are all set.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bigdog100

I just called Universal and they said I need
SRAM XX1 Trigger Shift Kit-In-A-Box 175mm 166Q 32T BB30 Crankset 10-42 11 speed; Bottom Bracket Not Included
for the niner jet RDO
Not the Q168, I am confused what to order

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by goodoljake

Ok in truth I've had this for a little while, but didn't want to steal anyone's thunder...
26lbs (includes pedals, tubes, pump & cage)

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Nice looking steed! I'm with you on the imitation thing. I'm totally trying to copy some of the goodness I've seen in this thread. That is one of the nicer looking white RDO builds I've seen. Looks like you've gone for more of a "trail/AM" build. I bet your bike will be more fun to ride than the "XC racer" build I'm going for. BTW, what bottle cage is that? Does it hold your bottles firmly enough while still being able to pull them out on the trail?

Do I order the GXP or BB30 version?, I will also order the Truvativ PF30

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wheel-addict

You can use the 168Q, but are probably better off with the 156Q (narrower) for better pedaling efficiency. Jet9RDO accommodates both. You need to order the Truvativ PF30 Bottom Bracket and you are all set.

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Order the BB30 version.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bigdog100

Do I order the GXP or BB30 version?, I will also order the Truvativ PF30

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by wheel-addict

Nice looking steed! BTW, what bottle cage is that? Does it hold your bottles firmly enough while still being able to pull them out on the trail?

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Thanks! Bottle cage is a Profile Design Kage (yes with a K). They aren't the prettiest, but they are cheap and fairly light (56g). They also have a rubber ring to help hold the bottles in. I did remove the rubber ring on this one and always on the seat tube to give them more flex when removing the bottles. For reference I have never lost a bottle and use them on all my rides. (See now I'm gonna lose one cuz of this. lol)
Universal Cycles -- Profile Design Stryke Kage w/ Retention Band

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wheel-addict

You can use the 168Q, but are probably better off with the 156Q (narrower) for better pedaling efficiency. Jet9RDO accommodates both. You need to order the Truvativ PF30 Bottom Bracket and you are all set.

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I second wheel addict with the narrow Q benefit, but If you have big feet and/or are prone to tuck in your heels striking the chain stay or even seat stay on this frame will be very common. I fall into the big foot category so I went with the wider to be safe and still hit the stays once in a while with my Q168.

For reference the new XX1 is either Q158 or Q168 where the traditional XX is Q156 or Q166. I've seen some shops incorrectly label the new XX1.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bigdog100

Do I order the GXP or BB30 version?, I will also order the Truvativ PF30

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Yes the only reason you would order the GXP is if you were thinking of swaping bits over to the Rip9 RDO or something like that at a later stage.

ordered the 156, I have not had the heel problem. I am size 11. Now I just need to pick out a fork??

DLine, nice looking rig. Are those the sram Rise 60 wheels? If so, how do you like them?

Dline, is that a medium frame or large at 24 lbs?

It's a Large. Put a lighter saddle and new Ashima rotors last night and shed a few grams.

Today was the first ride, though just a commute. Nothing like a new bike to amp up the mundane. The wheels are the Rise 60's, and they seem good so far, but I haven't really had them in a situation where I can tell just yet. I haven't converted to tubeless, which is the drawback. Most other wheels in their price category are tubeless ready. But I got a good deal on them, so it's hard to complain.

Is it correct that traditional Q-factor is 166 (with non-XX1 cranks)? If so, what specifically has many of you going with the Q156? I'm in the process of ordering an XX1 crank to use with 1x10 drivetrain, but I was thinking Q168 since that's closest to traditional, and I've never felt too "wide" before on pedals?

Is there a noticeable advantage with Q156? Also, can anyone confirm it wouldn't cause a clearance issue on an Air9 RDO frame?

Thanks

I put my 156 Q XX1 cranks on my wifes bike to try before I ordered hers.

With clip in shoes she had no problems, but she also some times iust usws running shoes & found with the wide heal they would often rub the frame.

She has chosen to go with 168 Q for this reason.

both my bikes run 156 Q & I tell myself it's better for pedaling in deep ruts & less likely to get caught on tree stumps & better for pedaling on corners when the bike is layed over.

However this to the greater part is all in my head, Because 6mm each side isn't much & there will be pedals out there with spindal lengths that will be a greater difference.

156 Q isn't a magic bullet to anything, I would be just as happy with 168 Q but then I'm 6 ft maybe a shorter peorson might notice it more.

my 2 c

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kfb66

Is it correct that traditional Q-factor is 166 (with non-XX1 cranks)? If so, what specifically has many of you going with the Q156? I'm in the process of ordering an XX1 crank to use with 1x10 drivetrain, but I was thinking Q168 since that's closest to traditional, and I've never felt too "wide" before on pedals?

Is there a noticeable advantage with Q156? Also, can anyone confirm it wouldn't cause a clearance issue on an Air9 RDO frame?

Thanks

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I'm only 5'9" so not sure which Q would fit me best? I'll have to measure my current bikes and see what they are. I know my Jet9 is 166Q, but no idea on cyclocross or rigid bike? I like the idea of narrower cranks during turns as we have a lot of tight, twisty sections on our race courses.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by muzzanic

I put my 156 Q XX1 cranks on my wifes bike to try before I ordered hers.

With clip in shoes she had no problems, but she also some times iust usws running shoes & found with the wide heal they would often rub the frame.

She has chosen to go with 168 Q for this reason.

both my bikes run 156 Q & I tell myself it's better for pedaling in deep ruts & less likely to get caught on tree stumps & better for pedaling on corners when the bike is layed over.

However this to the greater part is all in my head, Because 6mm each side isn't much & there will be pedals out there with spindal lengths that will be a greater difference.

156 Q isn't a magic bullet to anything, I would be just as happy with 168 Q but then I'm 6 ft maybe a shorter peorson might notice it more.

my 2 c

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If you did go 156q you can get 1mm back with a pedal washer & up to 3mm out of your cleats anyway.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kfb66

I'm only 5'9" so not sure which Q would fit me best? I'll have to measure my current bikes and see what they are. I know my Jet9 is 166Q, but no idea on cyclocross or rigid bike? I like the idea of narrower cranks during turns as we have a lot of tight, twisty sections on our race courses.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by kfb66

I'm only 5'9" so not sure which Q would fit me best? I'll have to measure my current bikes and see what they are. I know my Jet9 is 166Q, but no idea on cyclocross or rigid bike? I like the idea of narrower cranks during turns as we have a lot of tight, twisty sections on our race courses.

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I'm running 156Q as well and like the narrower Q-factor compared to my XT cranks I removed. I've had zero heal clearance issues with size 45 shoes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by goodoljake

Ok in truth I've had this for a little while, but didn't want to steal anyone's thunder. I actually had it set up 2x10, but had so much flex when I was mashing real hard I couldn't keep the chain on the big ring. Anyway, swapped over to XX1 and am hooked. Definitely going to be expensive trying to convert the other horses in my stable.

XL White Jet 9 RDO
Fox Float 120mm, Maxle
SRAM XX1 Drivetrain (BB30 Q168 & trigger shift)
Shimano XTR 988 Trail Brakeset
American Classic MTB Wheelset
Schwalbe Ron & Ralph
Niner Flat Top Bar, ESI Chunky Grips
Niner RDO Stem 110mm
Kind Shock Supernatural Seatpost 150mm drop, 435mm overall
Forte Pro SL Saddle
Shimano XT Pedals
26lbs (includes pedals, tubes, pump & cage)

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Sick build homie! Youre not stealing anyone's thunder - you just have damn fine taste.

So, I now have to say Ive officially had an issue with xx1. When I balled up my wheels on a big drop, turns out i broke my cassette as well. When my mechanic removed it to rebuild my trashed rim, it came off in two pieces. The shop said sram would warranty it...but they are backordered through the end of april. Just so happens a local guy had an extra, which he is giving me in return for the other when it comes.

I will be interested to see if this is an issue more people run into, or if it was a self contained case of stupidity. If the cassettes are prone to breaking, it is nice of sram to warranty that.

That it crazy. I've had two XX cassettes and never came close to breaking anything on them. I can say that I've broken an XTR cassettes though, but that was due to the thin titanium cogs. Anyway, wonder if you hit it on a rock and/or they broke it removing it from the wheel???

Palmares, where did it break? Any pics of it?
I was going to go with the xx1 group for my new Jet RDO build but I am patiently waiting to hear more ride reports and/or issues. I am not in too big a hurry to build the bike up hence the waiting and to see if Shimano comes out with a similar group.
It's perplexing to wonder that by manufacturing parts to be lightweight that durability becomes an issue, as is the challenge in most manufacturing arenas.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by goodoljake

Ok in truth I've had this for a little while, but didn't want to steal anyone's thunder. I actually had it set up 2x10, but had so much flex when I was mashing real hard I couldn't keep the chain on the big ring. Anyway, swapped over to XX1 and am hooked. Definitely going to be expensive trying to convert the other horses in my stable.

XL White Jet 9 RDO
Fox Float 120mm, Maxle
SRAM XX1 Drivetrain (BB30 Q168 & trigger shift)
Shimano XTR 988 Trail Brakeset
American Classic MTB Wheelset
Schwalbe Ron & Ralph
Niner Flat Top Bar, ESI Chunky Grips
Niner RDO Stem 110mm
Kind Shock Supernatural Seatpost 150mm drop, 435mm overall
Forte Pro SL Saddle
Shimano XT Pedals
26lbs (includes pedals, tubes, pump & cage)

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Goodoljake - how tall are you? I'm 6'7" wondering if the XL was gonna work for me. I ride a XXL HT right now...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by goodoljake

Ok in truth I've had this for a little while, but didn't want to steal anyone's thunder. I actually had it set up 2x10, but had so much flex when I was mashing real hard I couldn't keep the chain on the big ring. Anyway, swapped over to XX1 and am hooked. Definitely going to be expensive trying to convert the other horses in my stable.

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Beauty of a bike! Where were you getting all that flex? Are speaking of the frame/bb, or crank?

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Originally Posted by tall_bryce

Goodoljake - how tall are you? I'm 6'7" wondering if the XL was gonna work for me. I ride a XXL HT right now...

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OK, I am 6/4 with a 34" inseam. I normally ride 21" or XL frames and this fits me well. I have a buddy who is 6/7 and he won't go near any XL or 21". He is a hold out for XXL or 23". I must admit I like the Santa Cruz Tall Boy and almost bought a XXL carbon one but was advised directly by a Santa Cruz tech that I was too small for it. That was just prior to finding a sweet deal on the Jet. Anyway, the XXL Carbon Tallboy can still be had for a sweet price, if you like blue. check it: Santa Cruz Bicycles

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Originally Posted by insighter

Beauty of a bike! Where were you getting all that flex? Are speaking of the frame/bb, or crank?

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According to Niner the flex is in the CVA and rear end. I'm a very big boy so when I mash on the steep stuff it would flex laterally enough to literally shift the chain off the side of the big ring. If I adjusted the front derailleur to compensate then it would rub on the chain in the smallest cogs under a more normal load. If I had to guess by the quickness of their diagnosis it wasn't the first time this has happened. All that said I don't notice the flex anymore than I do on my hardtails. The switch to 1x for me has not only solved it, but has me sold on the whole XX1 concept.

Looking at a wheel upgrade. please tell me your thoughts on the all black or red ones.

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Originally Posted by PHS

Palmares, where did it break? Any pics of it?
I was going to go with the xx1 group for my new Jet RDO build but I am patiently waiting to hear more ride reports and/or issues. I am not in too big a hurry to build the bike up hence the waiting and to see if Shimano comes out with a similar group.
It's perplexing to wonder that by manufacturing parts to be lightweight that durability becomes an issue, as is the challenge in most manufacturing arenas.

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Not sure, as my bike shop is in Austin and I dont live there. After talking to a few people, it sounds like a very isolated issue, as no one has heard of an xx or xx1 cassette breaking like that.

I took a pretty ill advised gnarly drop and landed on a non landing area (read: I f'ed it away) and am just glad nothing worse happened. I still dig my XX1 and dont think there are long lasting durability issues. We shall see.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by goodoljake

Looking at a wheel upgrade. please tell me your thoughts on the all black or red ones.

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I say go with the black ones.

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Originally Posted by tall_bryce

I say go with the black ones.

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Ditto

+1 on the black ones. And send me the red ones-they'll look great on my black RDO!;)

Black ones on order. The red ones would look sick on a blacked out frame, but I don't have them in hand or we could work it out. thanks for the help.

I have the Trail 24's (weight came to exactly 1570 g with tape and valve stems) ready to put on my black RDO frame. I went for a slight custom order by getting black rim/hub, and red spokes. I'm just waiting for handlebars and stem to arrive and then I'll post a picture of the finished bike. I considered blacked out I9s as well. Should also look sick.

If anyone is looking for an XX1 / XD freehub body for a SRAM Rise 60 wheelset, I can trade you my just-about-new XX1 freehub for your standard 8/9/10 speed Shimano style freehub body. I've gotta move my wheelset to a triple ring setup for some XC stage racing.

I am building up new RDO 1x11. Do I run the rear deraileur cable housing through the frame or use the small plastic tubes for inside frame and housing on the outside?

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Originally Posted by bigdog100

I am building up new RDO 1x11. Do I run the rear deraileur cable housing through the frame or use the small plastic tubes for inside frame and housing on the outside?

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Check on Niner's web site. They have a video that shows how to do the internal cable routing.

According to that video it seems like the cable is bare inside the frame, wont that rub on carbon and create some wear?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bigdog100

According to that video it seems like the cable is bare inside the frame, wont that rub on carbon and create some wear?

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That is how it is designed by Niner to function. The cable is not just slack and flopping around inside the frame. It is under tension and runs in a straight line so it doesn't contact anything.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bigdog100

According to that video it seems like the cable is bare inside the frame, wont that rub on carbon and create some wear?

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It doesn't rub, but the nightmares that some others have documented with the internal cable routing on the RDO scared me. If you are going with an XX1, why not just run full length housing on the outside along with the rear brake line? This is what I did, and I think it looks just fine, perhaps even a bit more balanced than seeing a single cable enter one half of the head-badge. Here's some pictures I just posted: http://forums.mtbr.com/niner-bikes/f...tc-843312.html

With the XX1 chain length just run the chain through derailuer and big rings and size it that way? Or do I remove shock bolt and cycle suspention full range up and then size?

I used big ring + 3. Then I measured w suspension fully cycled and it came out almost identical. So, go with either.

Did you guys use a tool to put the PF30 in the BB?

this is what mine looks like

Attachment 780970