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  1. #1
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    J9RDO HELP Cable Housing Slap

    I am running full length housing. I am using the latest full length housing kit from Niner. Despite my best efforts I can't get the housing snug taut enough inside the frame to stop it from making a ridiculously loud noise every time I turn or hit a bump. Has anyone else had this issue?

    Using SRAM XX1 housing, the plastic clear house and grommets supplied by Niner. This is a real downer.

    I tried running electrical tape on the outside of the housing to,keep,it taut. It looked ghetto and didn't work.


    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Moosehead
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    Do you have the cable housing shims at headbadge and at either end of the chainstay? They are the split shims that will provide some clamping around the housing to keep it taunt, see page 46 of the Niner Encyclopeia, labeled F1R in the firtst diagram.

    Apologies if you are akready doing this, if so perhaps try shimming the housing with a thin layer of tape inside the cable shim might help. Good luck.

  3. #3
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    J9RDO HELP Cable Housing Slap

    Thanks. I have those shims. I will try to fit some tape under them

  4. #4
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    I'm having the same issue on my Rip9 RDO. Niner recommend followings the air9rdo niner encyclopedia's cable trick...zip ties. I doubt this will work since they show zip tying the front and read dérailleur cables together...and we have just on cable for the XX1. I'm going to try making some foam donuts to slip the cables in the downtube...

  5. #5
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    J9RDO HELP Cable Housing Slap

    My issue is the internal rattle. I am likely to go with interrupted housing. XX1 should be able to handle it. Whereas I can't handle the noise. It sounds like a rattle.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    I'm having the same issue on my Rip9 RDO. Niner recommend followings the air9rdo niner encyclopedia's cable trick...zip ties. I doubt this will work since they show zip tying the front and read dérailleur cables together...and we have just on cable for the XX1. I'm going to try making some foam donuts to slip the cables in the downtube...
    I did this on my air9rdo. You don't tie them together, its the tail on the zip tie that springs the housing to the side of the tube. Shimano recommends it on my s-works road bike also.
    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    If I told you I saw a unicorn ****ing a leprechaun trail side, you'd probably be suspicious.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeopleForScience View Post
    I did this on my air9rdo. You don't tie them together, its the tail on the zip tie that springs the housing to the side of the tube. Shimano recommends it on my s-works road bike also.
    How do you get the zip ties inside the down tube? do you go in from the bb?

    Thanks,
    Martin

  8. #8
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    Had the same 'problem' this weekend. What i did was pulling at the outer cable at the headbadge so that is 'tight'. Then i used some tape around the shim for a tighter fit in the headbadge so the outer cable cannot move out again. Pull the outer cable while installing the shim in the headbadge so the outer cable stays tight. This solved it.

  9. #9
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    I had some cable slap when I did the full length cable with XX1. I just zip tied the shift cable and rear brake hose together. It solved the problem for me.

    Just pull the cable tight and zip it to the brake hose. When the bars turn it side loads the cable a bit at the head badge and it doesn't slide in to get slack.

  10. #10
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    Mine slaps around a little also after the full length conversion. I was planning on trying some foam donuts or zip ties at some point.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeopleForScience View Post
    I did this on my air9rdo. You don't tie them together, its the tail on the zip tie that springs the housing to the side of the tube. Shimano recommends it on my s-works road bike also.
    Thanks!...the zip ties did the trick...no more rattling

  12. #12
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    J9RDO HELP Cable Housing Slap

    How did you get the zip ties in?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by sand0kan View Post
    How did you get the zip ties in?
    I disconnected the rear derailleur cable and removed the fork. I then pulled the cable housing out the head badge the length of the down tube (you don't have to pull all the housing out; use a some tape to mark the cable housing where it exits the down tube). I installed the zip ties through the head tube, pulling the cable housing back through the down tube. I used 4 zip ties. Hope that helps.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    I disconnected the rear derailleur cable and removed the fork. I then pulled the cable housing out the head badge the length of the down tube (you don't have to pull all the housing out; use a some tape to mark the cable housing where it exits the down tube). I installed the zip ties through the head tube, pulling the cable housing back through the down tube. I used 4 zip ties. Hope that helps.
    Nice. This is pretty common and what Shimano also told us at the shop with TT bikes and internal cable routing. I don't have noise in my JET9 RDO but will use this solution if it should come up. Thanks for the details.

  15. #15
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    My cable slap is getting bad. I can pretty easily slide the cable in and out at the headbadge. My shim doesn't seem to be the split type. Is this a Niner part or can I grab it at any LBS? My Niner dealer is a long way from my house.
    Quote Originally Posted by moosehead View Post
    Do you have the cable housing shims at headbadge and at either end of the chainstay? They are the split shims that will provide some clamping around the housing to keep it taunt, see page 46 of the Niner Encyclopeia, labeled F1R in the firtst diagram.

    Apologies if you are akready doing this, if so perhaps try shimming the housing with a thin layer of tape inside the cable shim might help. Good luck.

  16. #16
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    J9RDO HELP Cable Housing Slap

    I think the issue is that the inside diameter of the Niner holes is not the same.

    Using the same slotted part I get excellent holding power in the chain stay but virtually none in the head tube.

    Since I am running XX1 I am going to try interrupted housing and see if that alleviates the slap.

    The other thing one could try is to run various brands of housing to see if the outer diameter of the housing is thicker thereby preventing sliding into the head tube.

  17. #17
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    Having the same problem. I have the split shims, new shift kit w/ full housing, and the cable slides in/out with ease. It's driving me nuts. Next time, Niner, just route the whole set-up externally. Such a PITA.

  18. #18
    JMH
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    Haven't had this issue on my Jet RDO but my Orbea Orca road bike has a super noisy brake cable routed inside the top tube. I took a thick shoelace and cut the ends off. This resulted in a soft fabric tube that only weighed 4g for a piece longer than the top tube. I shoved it over the cable, it was longer so it scrunched up nicely inside and completely stopped all noises and vibrations.

    Might work!

    JMH

  19. #19
    Daniel the Dog
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    Internal routing is for what? A solution looking for a problem!!!! And a PITA!

  20. #20
    Moosehead
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    ^Jaybo, we got your schtick by now, pal. You did the same moaning in the Turner forum, and now nostalgically declare yourself a Homer. Sheesh.

    Next whine, you get 100 lashes with cable housing.

  21. #21
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    lmao!!!

  22. #22
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    I had my bike at the shop I purchased it and told them about the cable slap. I told them about running the zip-ties as described and that said that should work. I ran to lunch and when I went back to pick it up, all they did was put a zip-tie on the cable entering the headbadge and one on the inside of the of the steering-tube. I was't too pleased that they didn't do what we discussed but I was tired of being there. Rain all day today so I couldn't test it out. Maybe it will work? If not, I will do it myself or take it to my real bike mechanic.
    Quote Originally Posted by onobed View Post
    I think the issue is that the inside diameter of the Niner holes is not the same.

    Using the same slotted part I get excellent holding power in the chain stay but virtually none in the head tube.

    Since I am running XX1 I am going to try interrupted housing and see if that alleviates the slap.

    The other thing one could try is to run various brands of housing to see if the outer diameter of the housing is thicker thereby preventing sliding into the head tube.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-Choro View Post
    Having the same problem. I have the split shims, new shift kit w/ full housing, and the cable slides in/out with ease. It's driving me nuts. Next time, Niner, just route the whole set-up externally. Such a PITA.
    Had the same issue w/ my Rip9 RDO cable routing; the split shims were not tight enough. I fixed it by wrapping some thin kapton tape around the cable (Kapton (Polyimide) Tape with Silicone Adhesive, Amber, 0.001" Thick, 1/2" Wide, 36 Yard Roll: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific)

  24. #24
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    Yeah...that didn't work at all. On to next step.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bailey44 View Post
    I had my bike at the shop I purchased it and told them about the cable slap. I told them about running the zip-ties as described and that said that should work. I ran to lunch and when I went back to pick it up, all they did was put a zip-tie on the cable entering the headbadge and one on the inside of the of the steering-tube. I was't too pleased that they didn't do what we discussed but I was tired of being there. Rain all day today so I couldn't test it out. Maybe it will work? If not, I will do it myself or take it to my real bike mechanic.

  25. #25
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    When you say "pulled out the cable housing" did you leave the wire and just pull the housing? How difficult is it to get it all pushed back in?
    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    I disconnected the rear derailleur cable and removed the fork. I then pulled the cable housing out the head badge the length of the down tube (you don't have to pull all the housing out; use a some tape to mark the cable housing where it exits the down tube). I installed the zip ties through the head tube, pulling the cable housing back through the down tube. I used 4 zip ties. Hope that helps.

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