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  1. #1
    Back of the pack fat guy
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    HORRIBLE creak from new Jet 9 RDO

    Thoughts on source of this creak in my new Jet 9 RDO? Sounds like the BB to me. LBS cannot isolate the source or reproduce the creak at the shop (nor can I unless I'm climbing.)

    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/ErY5jwsLIqA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

  2. #2
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    My creaks on my Jet9RDO went away after I cleaned and regreased the derailleur hanger mounting interface and retightened it. After that the maxle needed to be cleaned and tightened as well. Those are pretty quick and easy things to try.

  3. #3
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    Yep the maxle on mine does that when it gets dirty. Also needs to be tight.

  4. #4
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    Chain ring bolts is a common one for a creak only under power.

  5. #5
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    If not the chainring bolts pull off the cranks and inspect/clean bearings, spacers, and crank surfaces, re-grease, tighten to specs and likely problem solved. Usually something has worked lose, needs cleaning, and/or grease. If not solved, move on to saddle,seatpost, bar and stem.

  6. #6
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    It's hard to say without knowing what your LBS checked already and what they forgot about, but culprits could be the saddle clamp, seatpost collar, loose cassette lockring, one or more of the pivots, derailleur hanger... just to start. (other than bottom bracket)
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  7. #7
    Back of the pack fat guy
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    I've already tried the bar, maxle, post and post collar, saddle, cassette (even tried a brand new chain and cassette), all the pivots (Niner dealer LBS checked). LBS threw in a new BB30 adapter (Wheelsmith instead of the FSA that's in there.) One thing I forgot to check was dry pedal threads. I'll check the hangar too - hadn't thought of that. Many thanks.

  8. #8
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    New Wheelsmith BB30 adapter installed, cables all checked, maxle tightened, pedal threads greased, chainring bolts checked and tightened, hanger checked and...we still have the same creak, albeit not as often or as loud. Now I'm thinking it could be the rear hub. At least I will see the guys from Niner tonight, so maybe a little first person manufacturer opinion will help solve this mystery.

  9. #9
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    Keep us posted - you have covered all the usual suspects.

  10. #10
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    My Jet9 RDO had a creak that was caused by a loose pivot bolt...lower drive side in my case.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    My Jet9 RDO had a creak that was caused by a loose pivot bolt...lower drive side in my case.
    Exact same for me, also got a click from a dirty derailleur hanger as well a few months before

  12. #12
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    Yep, the same pivot bolt was loose...but tightening it did not fix it. Still have the creak - which sounds more like a metallic squawk. I am starting to think there's some sort of interface issue with the rear hub since it was converted to 142 x 12 from 135 x 9, or the bearings in the hub are dry or toast. I love the way this bike rides, but I cannot stand the way it sounds.

  13. #13
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    Try another wheel/hub as a test. If you don't have one go to a shop and see if they have a loaner or borrow from a friend...

    Noises can be really tricky to track down on a bike. I have had it be so many different things. The most odd source I ever had was recent. It turned out to be the brake pads of all things. They were so worn down that the metal clips were ringing around as I hit bumps. The brakes still worked and were silent when engaged, but just going down the trail it sounded like a little bell.

  14. #14
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    I'm wondering if it's the brass fitting on the new rear brake line where it attaches to the brake caliper. Good lord, at this point, it could just be my old creaky knees. Or perhaps I need more chamois butter.

  15. #15
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    Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaand...the saga continues. Took the bike to a different mechanic after the first one basically gave up. ("I dunno. I checked everything.") Second mechanic greased pretty much every single moving part he could find, checked every single bolt, confirmed that the rear hub is solid and:

    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/hwgPGK0OSgM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

    I'm about to throw this thing off a cliff. Boooo. Next try is a new bottom bracket. Then, the frame goes back to Niner for a replacement. I'm starting to suspect that the bottom bracket shell is slightly out of round.

  16. #16
    Carbon & Ti rule
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    Quote Originally Posted by Earthpig View Post
    Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaand...the saga continues. Took the bike to a different mechanic after the first one basically gave up. ("I dunno. I checked everything.") Second mechanic greased pretty much every single moving part he could find, checked every single bolt, confirmed that the rear hub is solid and:

    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/hwgPGK0OSgM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

    I'm about to throw this thing off a cliff. Boooo. Next try is a new bottom bracket. Then, the frame goes back to Niner for a replacement. I'm starting to suspect that the bottom bracket shell is slightly out of round.
    Take another video & ride it on grass so it is easier to just hear the noise.

    Doesn't sound like the carbon frame to me so far, But a longer Video with only the bike noise would help.

    Does it always start with the RH pedal in the same position ?
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  17. #17
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    So you are running an adapter and not a BB30 crankset? Just my opinion, but the adapters are very problematic and not worth messing with. Get a crank that is made for the bike with a real bb30 bottom bracket. I tried adapters once and decided never again.

    I just tracked down an odd noise on my recent build. The noise was coming from the headset and kept getting worse. I took it apart and re-greased it 3 times and was about to knock out the headset cups when I remember that the seatpost was as far down in the frame as it would go (420mm reverb). Raised it a tad and tightened the seat clamp and the noise was gone. It is really strange how the source and where you hear the sound can be very unrelated on a bike.

  18. #18
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    I hadn't really timed the creak/squawk (sounds more like an annoying tropical bird squawking than a true creak), but yeah, looking at the videos, it does sound like it happens when the driveside crank is in the 3 o'clock position (parallel to the ground.) Never happens on the downhill, doesn't happen on "gentle" uphill grades and, until the last "fix," didn't happen while standing. Only while seated, pedaling and climbing an 8 - 15% grade.

    As for riding on the grass, I'm not sure that would make the squawk easier to identify. It's plenty loud on dirt (the iPhone video doesn't do the sound justice.) Other riders who are several yards away from me can hear it distinctly. And are annoyed by it.

    As for running an adapter, I looked at the standard Niner XT build (my drivetrain is all XT) and it appears that they spec the XT BB70 bottom bracket on that build, with an adapter from what I can tell. JET 9 RDO So, how is my XT not "made for the bike?" You'd think that Niner would only spec PF30 specific cranks and associated BBs if that were the case.

    New Race Face bottom bracket goes in today. I'm also wondering if perhaps the front rings need to be replaced.

  19. #19
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    Yea, they do spec an adapter on their build but that does not mean it is ideal. Inboard bearings are a much better way to go in my opinion. The adapter introduces many variables and points of flex. Outboard are fine when used on a solid threaded shell.

    Was the adapter installed dry or was some pft paste used.

  20. #20
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    FWIW I run both a Jet9 RDO & a Air9 RDO with the Sram Adaptors & GXP cranks, with no problems & they work as good as my Wife Jet9 RDO with the BB30 cranks.

    The Raceface BB is a nice option.


    Quote Originally Posted by Earthpig View Post
    I hadn't really timed the creak/squawk (sounds more like an annoying tropical bird squawking than a true creak), but yeah, looking at the videos, it does sound like it happens when the driveside crank is in the 3 o'clock position (parallel to the ground.) Never happens on the downhill, doesn't happen on "gentle" uphill grades and, until the last "fix," didn't happen while standing. Only while seated, pedaling and climbing an 8 - 15% grade.

    As for riding on the grass, I'm not sure that would make the squawk easier to identify. It's plenty loud on dirt (the iPhone video doesn't do the sound justice.) Other riders who are several yards away from me can hear it distinctly. And are annoyed by it.

    As for running an adapter, I looked at the standard Niner XT build (my drivetrain is all XT) and it appears that they spec the XT BB70 bottom bracket on that build, with an adapter from what I can tell. JET 9 RDO So, how is my XT not "made for the bike?" You'd think that Niner would only spec PF30 specific cranks and associated BBs if that were the case.

    New Race Face bottom bracket goes in today. I'm also wondering if perhaps the front rings need to be replaced.
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  21. #21
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    Yea, they do seem to work for some people, but so did the original internal cable routing. It works and does not make noise if you get everything just right.

    However, the Race face one does look like it should be fine since it is not a threaded adapter that gets deformed when pressed in. It is just straight up outboard bearings.

    Hope you figure it out.

  22. #22
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    Well, I think we figured it out and the result isn't good. It appears, as I suspected, that the BB shell is deformed. On the non-drive side, the top of the shell feels to be warped. The new RF BB does not fit flush all the way around - if you take your fingertip and run it around the point where the shell and the BB meet, it's flush all the way around except for about 1/4" of an inch at the top, where the shell sort of "falls away" from the BB (it narrows slightly.) You can feel the edge of the BB, instead of a smooth transition from the BB to the shell. This mean means that any BB/adapter is not going to fit. I'll try one ride with the new RF BB, but I think the frame is bound for warranty replacement.

  23. #23
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    Is the RF BB metal or the more flexible shell on the SRAM?

    Some don't like the SRAM BB, but others say it works better because it conforms to any deformities.

    I have a metal Wheels Mfg waiting to be installed. We'll see how it compares to the SRAM

    Still...I'd get it warrantied.

  24. #24
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    Here's a half-decent iPhone picture of what I'm talking about. You can see how the BB sits flush with the frame on the left side of the photo, but as you follow it around to the top of the shell, the BB pokes out from the shell (and you can see what appears to be a nick/dent in the frame from production.)

    Just got back from the shop. They admitted they could see and feel what I am talking about, but they kind of hemmed and hawed about it and told me to ride it with the new BB and see if the noise was still there. I'm going to swing by the other Niner dealer in the area before I ride it and get their input.

    HORRIBLE creak from new Jet 9 RDO-niner.jpg

  25. #25
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    My understanding is that the BB is cut using a special tool. This tool cuts the ID and face together to ensure they are perpendicular. I don't know that the OD has any impact on the fit at all.

    That said, there is clearly a mark on the OD. Did you inspect the face and bore to insure that there is no bulging? If the OD mark was caused by a striking force, perhaps the carbon is fractured? I could see small fractures creaking under heavy load.

  26. #26
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    I don't think the shop that assembled the bike inspected the frame or BB shell before assembly. They told me this morning that they'd (1) never heard a creak like what I'm experiencing and (2) had never had a problem with the BB before.

    Probably worth having the BB pulled. However, now I'm getting concerned about how many times the adapter and/or BB have been pulled and reinstalled. I'm hoping that would not cause further damage.

  27. #27
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    Here's my 2 cents, hope it brings some consolation. Bike parts are INSAINLY expensive. When you charge a premium price, I don't believe it is wrong to expect a premium product. Given the price paid, a bike free from creaks is a reasonable expectation.

  28. #28
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    Yes, I agree. I've owned more frames than I can remember since I started riding in 1996 and (1) I've never paid this much for a frame or (2) had this much of a creaking issue. Generally, I've been happy with Niner, but this is the 3rd of 4 Niner frames I've owned in the last 3 years that have given me problems (chain suck/stuck problem on a Jet 9 and Biocentric EBB slippage + creak on a One 9.)

  29. #29
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    Aaaaaand...the saga continues. The RF bottom bracket solved nothing. I'm at a loss and both Niner dealers are at a loss. Next up, different rear wheel. Grrrr. First world problems.

  30. #30
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    I have the same bike and have experienced a similar creak as you. It's really crazy but every time I encounter any water from riding or washing I get the creak. I dry and lube the rear thru axle and presto the creak goes away. I hope it could possibly be that simple for you. My buddy had a top of line carbon Trek a few years back and went thorough a similiar saga as you and finally checked the skewers and that was the ticket. Good Luck

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Earthpig View Post
    Aaaaaand...the saga continues. The RF bottom bracket solved nothing. I'm at a loss and both Niner dealers are at a loss. Next up, different rear wheel. Grrrr. First world problems.
    Has anyone professionally faced this BB? When they reinstalled did anyone do something sensible like using bearing locktite?

    Just reinstalling something isn't going to do diddly squat. Repeating the same mistakes is all. The bearing locktite is designed to make the pressfit tighter when the frame is slightly too large.

    If you have bought the frame and built up, unfortunately it is your issue, I'd onsell the crankset, buy a bb30 one and a wheelsmith BB and locktite it in with 609. But try your best to reproduce the sound with the bike stationary , then feeling for the vibrations etc will locate the sound - that's how I found creaks that were in the deraileur before when I thought they wer BB

  32. #32
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    Problem solved. Replaced the rear wheel and voila - quiet as a church mouse. Tried the rear wheel I had been using on the Jet on a different frame - voila, that bike make the same noise the Jet had been making. So, after 4 tries at the shop, all I really needed to do was switch wheels. Not sure why the wheel is making those noises, but I'm just happy it's not the frame.

  33. #33
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    Congratulations. Riding noise free can really put you in the zone.

    Just curious, what type of hub did you have on your wheel?

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Earthpig View Post
    Problem solved. Replaced the rear wheel and voila - quiet as a church mouse. Tried the rear wheel I had been using on the Jet on a different frame - voila, that bike make the same noise the Jet had been making. So, after 4 tries at the shop, all I really needed to do was switch wheels. Not sure why the wheel is making those noises, but I'm just happy it's not the frame.
    I believe the conversion to 142x12 was what caused the creaking. Some wheel/hub makers do it correctly and thoroughly....some simply half-ass it, just to stay trendy.
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  35. #35
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    Sun Ringle Black Flag Pro. Never had a problem with it before - it was 135 x 9mm when I bought it from a friend last year, converted it to 142 x 12 and used it on a Transition Bandit 29, a RIP 9 and a Transition Covert 29 in that configuration, switched it back to a 135 x 9 QR and used it on a Banshee Paradox. (Yes, I go through frames quickly.) It never made a peep or squeak. However, when it was switched back to 142 x 12 for the Jet, all of a sudden it's creaky. Same noise on the Covert. All I can think is that the wrench who did the conversion missed a step? Anyway, not really a Niner specific issue. And, I love the other wheel I stole off the Covert for this experiment (Velocity hub with the 30mm Light Bicycles carbon rim. A much better fit for this frame.)

  36. #36
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    Ripped the drive pawls out of two different black flags last season...creaking started then pow! Walked 4 miles back to the truck. Second one started creaking...ordered hopes and replaced it. Pulled it apart and 2 of the 3 pawls had sheared...

    Glad you figured it out! Can't stand 5k creaking bikes!

  37. #37
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    I'm loving the totally quiet bike now and, since the hub was rebuilt with new bearings and a new steel freehub body, it's quiet as well.

    Here's that lovely original freehub body. Big dudes like me can apparently wreak havoc on 3 pawl aluminum freehub bodies....HORRIBLE creak from new Jet 9 RDO-1599401_10152418284576544_8540742309256265229_o.jpg

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