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  1. #1
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    New question here. Cable routing on Niner Air Carbon?

    Ok, call me a fool, stupid or wahtever.
    But I just checked the set up and installation of the cable routing for a Niner Air Carbon, well as the instructions said, it is not sooo easy but with enough patience it is doable.

    But I am scratching my head now, if I think about the situation of replacing the cables anytime in the future (and unfortunately we do have some pretty wt conditions over here from time to time, so cable replacing on a regular basis is a given...).
    If I am reading the instructions correct and examining the BB area, if I need to replace cables I essentially need to completely disassemble my crankset and BB, correct?

    What are your experiences/ advices on that?

    And, by the way, is there any video floating around which demonstrates/ explains the correct steps (best practices) of installing the cables? That would be awesome!

  2. #2
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    There is one on the niner website, just check Videos

  3. #3
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    http://ninerbikes.com/fly.aspx?layout=bikes&taxid=271

    Patience is key to this one!

    Mine comes in early next week but i am setting it up as a SS

    Enjoy and don't forget to post pics!

    Take Care,

    PF

    p.s.>Steve Domahidy is the coolest! Aside from designing and producing the baddest 29" wheeled bikes he also played a sound bite from 'Show Me How To Live' from the band 'Audio Slave''s first Album. Good stuff!

    EXCUSES ARE THE NAILS IN THE COFFIN OF FAILURE.

  4. #4
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    Ah! How could I oversee the videos? Thanks!

    @Niner: It would be great if the videos would appear in the download section and would be available as a download as well...

  5. #5
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    But coming back to one of the questions:

    If I need to replace the cables, it essentially means I need to demount my cranks and the bb...or?

  6. #6
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    You will have to remove the crank to change cables. Depending on what BB setup you have you might be able to leave it in.

  7. #7
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    The BB would be in that case BB 30 PressFit SRAM XX/X0.

  8. #8
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    After six months, I just removed the cables on my A9C (cables were in great shape). I did so because the video shows to put the left shifter cables in the left hole and the right shifter cable in the right hole (which I did). The manual says to cross the two and I recommend this as it relieves the cables quite a bit.

    I had to remove my crank and BB to change out my cables. I did not remove the CYA cups. The cups remove quite a lot of valuable finger space. As a result, I recommend when removing the old cable to tie a string to it. That way you can attach the new cable to the string and carefully pull it through. Hope this helps.

  9. #9
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    Thanks Jeremy, yes I come across of this different cable routing guideline as well.

    @Niner: What is the correct/ recommended way to rout the cables into the headbadge?
    Left to left or left to right?

  10. #10
    PNW
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    I have had nothing but problems with the internal routing. I now run "full" outer right through the whole frame on both mine and my friend's bike
    The full outer runs through the frame above the BB shell

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNW
    I have had nothing but problems with the internal routing. I now run "full" outer right through the whole frame on both mine and my friend's bike
    The full outer runs through the frame above the BB shell
    What type of problems were you having?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNW
    I have had nothing but problems with the internal routing. I now run "full" outer right through the whole frame on both mine and my friend's bike
    The full outer runs through the frame above the BB shell
    Ditto.

    Since changing to full outer (for the rear at least) the shifting has been better than ever. I built the bike up with the standard interrupted cable outers, using the BB cable guide as suggested by Niner. The shifting was OK at first, but sadly only ever got worse - it never felt like new stuff should, always a little draggy/sticky. Once ridden in any sort of wet/dirty conditions it only got worse.

    As soon as the full outer went in the shifting felt perfect, highly recommended.

  13. #13
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    I would do the same thing as you guys if I ever have the same problem. Fortunately, mine works flawlessly. When I have to remove the crank from time to time, I put some lube on the cable guide in the BB and all continues to go well.b
    Last edited by jeremy524; 03-15-2011 at 08:09 PM.

  14. #14
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    What size drill bit did you guys use to drill the headtube cable stops.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by monolith
    Ditto.

    Since changing to full outer (for the rear at least) the shifting has been better than ever. I built the bike up with the standard interrupted cable outers, using the BB cable guide as suggested by Niner. The shifting was OK at first, but sadly only ever got worse - it never felt like new stuff should, always a little draggy/sticky. Once ridden in any sort of wet/dirty conditions it only got worse.

    As soon as the full outer went in the shifting felt perfect, highly recommended.
    Apologize for my bad english and understanding, but can you explain a bit more what you did?
    If I understood you guys correct, you are using a „closed“ cable system (like Gore for example) WITHIN the frame? But that would require a) to extend/ drill the headbadge for a bigger hole and b) modify the cable routing guide (inside of the BB) to be able to fit the closed cable?

    (Sorry, I hope this makes sense?)

  16. #16
    PNW
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    Quote Originally Posted by omega1848
    Apologize for my bad english and understanding, but can you explain a bit more what you did?
    If I understood you guys correct, you are using a „closed“ cable system (like Gore for example) WITHIN the frame? But that would require a) to extend/ drill the headbadge for a bigger hole and b) modify the cable routing guide (inside of the BB) to be able to fit the closed cable?

    (Sorry, I hope this makes sense?)
    Drilling out the head badge cable guide is the only mod' needed.
    I don't know how Niner will go with warranty, hopfully they will be cool with it, it's just a drill hole in the badge

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by omega1848
    Apologize for my bad english and understanding, but can you explain a bit more what you did?
    If I understood you guys correct, you are using a „closed“ cable system (like Gore for example) WITHIN the frame? But that would require a) to extend/ drill the headbadge for a bigger hole and b) modify the cable routing guide (inside of the BB) to be able to fit the closed cable?

    (Sorry, I hope this makes sense?)
    I'm not using gore or anything, just plain old Shimano SP41 outer. Can't remember the size of the drill bit - it was big enough to get the outer through...

    The headbadge actually pulled off my frame the first time I went to change the outers - it's just held in place by what looks like a contact adhesive, so not integral to the headtube area at in all in terms of strength. You don't modify the guide at all, just bypass it completely - if you're running BB30 I doubt you'll have enough room above the spindle to easily run the outer, but with a regular 24mm spindle crank you'll be fine.

    I had about half a cup of water come out of my frame after a recent race (Karapoti Classic), and my shifting was still fine! Couldn't say the same before I did the cable mod...

  18. #18
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    Run a cable system like gore professional, nokon or i-links that use a full length liner inside housing, and you will be able to do cable changes without removing cranks.

  19. #19
    tjp
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    Full length cable housing here. Sweetness. PITA (but a very occasional PITA) to change with the press-fit BB, however.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjp
    Full length cable housing here. Sweetness. PITA (but a very occasional PITA) to change with the press-fit BB, however.
    Ok, I have mine apar now and I am considering the full lengh cable. I assume you mean rear only since there is no front sop except the head tube badge. Also, there is some debate as to which side goes where. For th rear.....did the drill out the drive side or non-drive side of the headbadge?

    Tx

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy524
    After six months, I just removed the cables on my A9C (cables were in great shape). I did so because the video shows to put the left shifter cables in the left hole and the right shifter cable in the right hole (which I did). The manual says to cross the two and I recommend this as it relieves the cables quite a bit.

    I had to remove my crank and BB to change out my cables. I did not remove the CYA cups. The cups remove quite a lot of valuable finger space. As a result, I recommend when removing the old cable to tie a string to it. That way you can attach the new cable to the string and carefully pull it through. Hope this helps.
    I ran into that same questions. The instructions in the box and the video contradict each other. I currently have mine right in left and left in right like the paperwork...but that bend of here seems rough and then the cables are crossing in the downtube somewhere correct?

  22. #22
    tjp
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    Cross them

    Cross the cables, the bend is much smoother. Helped the front shifting a lot.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjp
    Cross the cables, the bend is much smoother. Helped the front shifting a lot.
    so you ran full housing to rear and drilled non-drive side of headbadge? correct?

  24. #24
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    This ^

    Quote Originally Posted by mtbboy2000 View Post
    so you ran full housing to rear and drilled non-drive side of headbadge? correct?
    My Niner BB creaks and I think it may actually be the housing stop now. What is being said here is drilling out the internal routing chuck so you can run a continuous cable along with drilling out the head badge and bam you can run a continuous cable?

    Please confirm because I like this idea.
    Last edited by dguggemos; 07-29-2012 at 05:21 PM.

  25. #25
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    I had nothing but problems with the shifting on my bike until my LBS drilled out the head badge and ran a full length housing to the rear. From what I understand, Niner knows this and addressed the problem on the RDO. I believe they have a retrofit kit in the works.

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