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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaveGiant View Post
    Niner seem to spec their shocks to blow through travel, not sure why.

    Have you tried increasing the number of rubber spacers in the monarch overflow can?

    I have only had 3 rides on the monarch so too soon to tell how I should set it up, but the bands should firm up the mid stroke and bottom.

    One other shock that is amazing is the Manitou ISX6.
    The amount of adjustment on that shock is amazing.

    To clarrify how adjustable this is I should say what I did to tune my dorado.
    I'm a geek, so pens, calculators and graph paper appeared a lot in my shock tuning.
    I replaced the 2 main springs with 11, including two elastomers and an air spring.
    The damping circuit was fully reshimmed and the flat point modified. I also drilled one of the internal oil damping channels to prioritise midstroke travel. Last but most definately least, there was no oil on the market that fitted my sums, so I went and bought a few and mixed up what I wanted to get the desired product.

    To get the ISX to match this was ALL done externally with dials!!!

    The RP23 I had on the WFO first was awful, seriously bad. Even after I custom tuned it myself (couldn't get it good), I then sent it to the proffesionals (who got it better) I just gave it away.

    This is the main reason I am a WFO fan, it is basically a RIP that can take a good shock.

    ISX6 = perfect
    Monarch = new, but showing promise
    CCDB Air = very good, but a bit fast in mid stroke (second hand knowledge)
    RP23 = Pants, not a good match for CVA
    I didn't try changing the bands in my Monarch shock as I got a good deal on the CCDB air and I decided that that was probably the easier and better option. As far as the Monarch Plus goes, Dad and I are still thinking about whether his one needs to be improved or not. Thanks for the tip about the bands though, I'll give that a go if we do decide the midstroke/bottom out needs to be firmer.

    I'd also be interested to see the settings that your friend is using on the CCDB air-from memory mine are similar to the ones in the other WFO thread, but I have a bit more compression damping than what was posted there. (I can find my exact settings later if anyone is interested) I'm considering trying the air can rings in mine to make it more progressive but I'm happy with it as is so far...

    Quote Originally Posted by CaveGiant View Post
    I should add with shock tuning, the CVA has progressive rate through the first half of travel, then goes regressive for the second half. This makes tuning a shock for it VERY hard as the shock needs to change character half was through stroke. If you have a hydraulic bottom out circuit, you can tune that to ramp the shock up in time with the rate change. Conveniently this is option "3" on the red dial on ISX6. So the hydraulic compression ramp lines up with the CVA drop leaving the rest of the shock to be tuned as if a standard progressive rate frame.
    That adjustable bottom out would be a nice feature to have, and is why I originally wanted an ISX6 when I was looking at other options for shocks. Unfortunately I couldn't find a source for one at the time in my country. I think I remember seeing a rate curve for the WFO that you posted in one of the other threads. This also helped explain to me why the DHX coil I tried (because I had one that was spare and I thought it would be interesting to see what would happen) performed well for about the first half of the shock stroke, then it blew through the travel really fast (mine was a DHX4, so no adjustable bottom out).

    The problem with these highly adjustable shocks is that I find I really miss the ability to make a bike suit my riding style when I ride a bike that doesn't have that feature. I tried a demo bike over the weekend and really noticed this then.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29erBob View Post
    The Demo bike was built pretty nicely. Sun Charger Pro wheelset (very bling), shorty stem that I liked a lot and contributed to it's great handling in tight stuff. The only think I noticed was the QR rear end (not a fan) but that wouldn't find it's way on my bike. I was able to use my saddle and seatpost. I think the wheels made the bike feel lighter than most other wheels on the market and the fact that it had my favorite tires didn't hurt one little bit, adding lots of confidence hammering it into fast turns. I liked the bike a lot, but I'm a little leery of the weight, even with how well it handles and even climbs. Oh, and this bike had the Fox Talas 34 FIT on it w/ 15QR. I was impressed at how much stronger this fork was than my 32 Talas Terralogic 15QR. I don't need a full DH fork so that's a nice compromise. I ran it hard into several corners with large braking bumps and stutter bumps only to find it compliant and keeping the tire on the ground, even leaned over and on the brakes with the rear in the air! Very impressive fork!

    I don't know that I'd find a lighter wheelset, but the good news is that this set is fairly inexpensive as wheelsets go, and seemed strong as heck!

    In the end, heavy frame and fork + light wheels + some good geometry = tons of fun.
    Short stem+wide bars is the way to go on one of these. If I didn't have the DT RWS skewer (which I think is noticably better than a standard QR) I'd be running the 142 mm dropouts on my bike.

    I also like the Hans Dampf tyres, they have great cornering grip and they work well in most conditions from dusty sand to mud and loam. That said I still want Minion DHF's (and I'm definitely going to buy some if I ever get the chance)...

  3. #28
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    I'm leaning WFO at the moment, The two factors are the fork and the shock that seem to make the decision. That bike should ride ANYTHING, even if it's not fast uphill I can make up for those things on the downs and during my test ride it was faster in the whoops and over rolling terrain than I ever expected.

  4. #29
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    2013 WFO ordered,. WFO 9 the 3 star build kit should be a good start with my wheels and Hans Dampf tires.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29erBob View Post
    2013 WFO ordered,. WFO 9 the 3 star build kit should be a good start with my wheels and Hans Dampf tires.
    Good on you, I'm sure you will love it.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29erBob View Post
    2013 WFO ordered,. WFO 9 the 3 star build kit should be a good start with my wheels and Hans Dampf tires.
    Good for you... take the time to experiment with shock pressure, compression and rebound rates, as well as if you run any Schwalbe tire, you must experiment with the tire pressure to find the sweet spot. You'll know it when you find it, it's hard to miss.
    "i'll brazilian when YOU do boy, right around the ol' rusty star. Actually, whole fruit bowl. Get on it!" NicoleB

  7. #32
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    Glad you went for it!

    I am really liking the HD at the moment.
    I went from the WTB Dissents which I thought were great.
    When I stuck on the HD tubeless I gained significant traction and lost half my tyre weight.

    All my tyres are now Schwalbe because of it.

    +1 on short stem and wide bars too.

    with a normal stem and bars on my old rip it rode like a steamroller, hard to turn but smashes through anything.
    Putting on a short stem made it one of the most nimble bikes I have ridden.
    The dorado comes with an adjustable stem from 4-8cm. I normally ride it at 4/5
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?

  8. #33
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    I should have it next week. I'll take pics before it's maiden ride and post after. Can't wait. I really think this thing will rock some wicked trail and hold up nice over time.

  9. #34
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    Here I am a week later, the price of the bike lighter and still no bike. How long does it take for these to come in when the local rep says "Yeah, we got that!"?

  10. #35
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    6' 4" and 235# geared up for this desert dwelling clyde. I have a 2010 RIP and absolutely love it. Mine is an XL, and the only thing I've broken is the XT free hub (twice). Believe the cause was flex in the rear triangle. Replace the XT with a Saint and went to a 12 mm thru axle in the rear. I'm running a Talas (120/95) in the front, and this bike goes everywhere. The only time it stops is when I run out of legs or courage. And I hit a lot of stuff hard in the Albuquerque area including rocks, ledges, drops, jumps, log piles, etc.

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by ABQ Clydesdale View Post
    6' 4" and 235# geared up for this desert dwelling clyde. I have a 2010 RIP and absolutely love it. Mine is an XL, and the only thing I've broken is the XT free hub (twice). Believe the cause was flex in the rear triangle. Replace the XT with a Saint and went to a 12 mm thru axle in the rear. I'm running a Talas (120/95) in the front, and this bike goes everywhere. The only time it stops is when I run out of legs or courage. And I hit a lot of stuff hard in the Albuquerque area including rocks, ledges, drops, jumps, log piles, etc.
    You might save yourself some grief at your size and weight by buying a Hadley, DT Swiss 440, or King rear hub to handle the sizeable amount of load and torque us Clydes generate on these Niner bikes while climbing up steep stuff. Shimano rear hubs won't last under us big boys, don't ask me how I know.
    "i'll brazilian when YOU do boy, right around the ol' rusty star. Actually, whole fruit bowl. Get on it!" NicoleB

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