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  1. #1
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    2012 Niner Jet 9 RDO rear end tolerance issue

    [SIZE=3]Hello,[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=3]I am in the process of having a 2012 Niner Jet9 RDO built and have come across an issue. I am not sure if this something others have experienced, but it’s a bit frustrating to me. To give a better picture of the situation, the bike is being built by a very experience mechanic who builds custom bikes and has an eye to detail; this one of the reasons I am having him do the job. Some of the components include ArchEX wheels, Industry 9 hubs, SRAM X9 drive train, Magura MTS break system.[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=3]The issue is that my mechanic noticed that when installing the rear break, the pad is off the rotor by 2.25 mm.. of all the bikes he had in his shop, not one showed that big of a gap nor had he seen one that big before on anything he had built in the past. He contacted Niner and initially was told that it was within spec. 2.25 mm is within spec on a $2800 frame? That did not set well with me. Niner was good enough to accommodate me and sent another 2012 rear end.. after we tried several other brands of calipers since they claim it could be a tolerance issue by the break manufacturer… we got the same result.[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=3]Today he received the second rear end and the problem is exactly the same. Although he is shocked that a high end frame like a Niner requires washers, it seems like it is the only solution to keep the caliper arms from wearing and having uneven wear of the pads because the pads being off the rotor.[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=3]I am not sure if I am going to get responses like oh yeah, just put washer on it not a big deal, but when you can buy a whole bike for the price of these frames and yet have better tolerances, I find something wrong with that. Putting washer to make up for poor tolerances doesn’t seem like a right solution. My mechanic checked around with an authorized shop and was told that they had seen it randomly and used washers.[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=3]This is my first Niner and I have gone from being totally excited about owning one, to wondering if I have made the right choice considering my experience.. Although a bit extreme, it feels like I bought a generic Chinese frame that has questionable manufacturing tolerances, although two rear ends with the same big tolerance could be considered as consistent. Obviously I will keep the bike, and I don’t think I have any other choice other than put washers, but wanted to share my frustration and at the same time give a heads up.[/SIZE]

  2. #2
    Dirty South Underdog
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    Are you saying you can't get the caliper to center on the rotor? You can put a shim (or three) behind the rotor, or, if it's in the other direction, do 1mm of work with a Dremel or a round file in the bolt holes of the caliper.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrea138 View Post
    Are you saying you can't get the caliper to center on the rotor? You can put a shim (or three) behind the rotor, or, if it's in the other direction, do 1mm of work with a Dremel or a round file in the bolt holes of the caliper.
    Why should you have to on a $2800 frame?

  4. #4
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    ...Because you want to get out and ride your bike instead of whining about it? Seriously... good mechanics do that sort of thing on a regular basis without even bothering the customer about it.
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  5. #5
    JMH
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flucod View Post
    Why should you have to on a $2800 frame?
    I have had to do this before and it had nothing to do with frame price or manufacturer.

    Two identical rear ends and no mention of checking a different wheel. Has the hub been eliminated as the culprit?

    JMH
    Last edited by JMH; 05-23-2013 at 01:00 PM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrea138 View Post
    ...Because you want to get out and ride your bike instead of whining about it? Seriously... good mechanics do that sort of thing on a regular basis without even bothering the customer about it.
    Does not make it right. Has nothing to do with being a good mechanic. I have been a mechanic for 20+ years and have had to do this to some frames and it definitely is a mfg tolerance issue. Some companies you never have these issues with.

  7. #7
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    sounds like you should sell it and get into triathlons. They have the ability to hear your issues like this and care.
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  8. #8
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    Thanks Flucod and I agree completely.
    Andrea.. it is not a horizontal gap issue, it is vertical and yes it will require 2.25mm of washers to raise the caliper up to align with the rotor, othewise I lose at least 10% of my pad surface which is below the rotor break track.

    Maybe good mechanics puts washers to make up for sloppy tolerances everyday and don't tell their customers... Great mechanics build trust and loyalty by having good communication with their customers and offering the different options available when an unexpected issue comes up. It is called customer service.
    My only point was that I expected tighter tolerances on high end frames and that it seems this is not always the case.
    JMH.. yes, different wheel/hub, different rotors, different calipers were tried and they maintained the same gap...this is simply a frame manufacturing tolerance issue.

  9. #9
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    goiko and Flucod - How dare you criticize Niner! How dare you!

    Trust me - I don't get it either. If you paid $2800 for a nice watch, electronics or furniture or anything else and had quality issues with it would it be considered acceptable? I think not.

  10. #10
    Drinkin' the 29er KoolAid
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    I've have this problem too on my 2012 Jet 9 RDO but its definitely not specific to this model or Niner... I've seen it with Jamis and Rocky Mountain frames also.

    Out of 6 bikes in my stable, 3 of them have washers (typically 1-1.5mm worth) under the caliper mounting bolts to correct the height in order to get proper pad contact on the rotor track.

  11. #11
    JMH
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    [QUOTE=goiko;10416970]Thanks Flucod and I agree completely.
    Andrea.. it is not a horizontal gap issue, it is vertical and yes it will require 2.25mm of washers to raise the caliper up to align with the rotor, othewise I lose at least 10% of my pad surface which is below the rotor break track.

    It just sounds extremely strange that the molded caliper posts are somehow shorter on your two swingarms than other swingarms that came out of the same mold. That would mean that every single swingarm ever made in this mold is incorrect, yet hundreds of people are mounting brakes with no problems. Is it possible that your brake rotors are 165mm instead of 160mm? There are lots of 165mm rotors out there, Hope, Avid and others made them for a long time and coincidentally they would require 2.5mm spacers under the caliper to work correctly.

    Just trying to help, it just seems highly unlikely a molded frame piece like your two swingarms are the culprit.

  12. #12
    Dirty South Underdog
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    ^This.

    The mold is the mold. Everyone has that swingarm, but it doesn't look like anyone else is having that issue.
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