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  1. #1
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    2012 Jet 9 RDO w/ SRAM 2x10, Chain Drop Issues

    I am having annoying issues with chain drop on my JET 9 RDO with 2012 X0 complete group set. These have been occuring for nearly the entire time I've owned the JET, and they always occur at some of the most inopportune times. Typically in a hard riding setting, most recently when trying to hold position in an XC race, I get chain drop from the 36T ring to the 28T ring. I have tried making barrel adjustments to the FD, but it just seems like I am unable to get the cage far enough to the outside to prevent the chain from dropping during hard chatter while still maintaining smooth shifting.

    I have done a few thread searches, but didn't find anything recent or really relevant other than some 2010 posts about some X0 RD's that had spring tension issues. Also, I'm not going to switch to Shimano, so save your hilarious feedback unless it is absolutely a correction to switch to XT with the Shadow configuration. Anyone else have chain drop issues on the JET 9 Carbon or RDO with a SRAM setup?
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

  2. #2
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    SRAM Type 2?

  3. #3
    USED2COULD
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bailey44 View Post
    SRAM Type 2?
    I run an X0 crankset with a 42/28 and have never had a chain drop. I have XX shifters and use the Shimano XTR FD.

    First thing I would do is experiment with your chain line.
    2x10
    '12 Niner Jet RDO 22.9 lb
    1x1
    '09 Cannondale F29er 1 20.1 lb
    '10 Sanderson Soloist 23.8 lb
    '09 Hammer 29'er 20.5 lb

  4. #4
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    How old are the chainrings?

    I had plenty of chain drop issues with a SRAM XX 26/39 system. It was almost always in the racing scenario you describe. Riding crossed over on rough terrain at high speed - chain falls to the inside. I had everything set up perfectly and even tried a hack job I saw Trek mechanics using (rubber insert zip-tied to the top of the f. der. cage to take up space and act like a bit of a chainguide.)

    My "solution" was to replace the big ring when this started happening. Problem solved for a couple of months until the big ring started to wear again. Shifting was always good and no chainsuck but the chain would fall off after a month or two. I think a Type 2 derailleur would have helped, but I decided to sell it all and go XTR anyway so I never tried one.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bailey44 View Post
    SRAM Type 2?
    I'll have to double check.
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PlanB View Post
    How old are the chainrings?

    I had plenty of chain drop issues with a SRAM XX 26/39 system. It was almost always in the racing scenario you describe. Riding crossed over on rough terrain at high speed - chain falls to the inside. I had everything set up perfectly and even tried a hack job I saw Trek mechanics using (rubber insert zip-tied to the top of the f. der. cage to take up space and act like a bit of a chainguide.)

    My "solution" was to replace the big ring when this started happening. Problem solved for a couple of months until the big ring started to wear again. Shifting was always good and no chainsuck but the chain would fall off after a month or two. I think a Type 2 derailleur would have helped, but I decided to sell it all and go XTR anyway so I never tried one.
    Your description is exactly the same problem. I am always dropping the chain to the inside as I bounce over rough terrain, and it always falls from the 39 to the 26 tooth. I started riding the bike in January, 2013. I purchased new from Comp Cyclist. As far as teeth, I would be surprised if I had already worn down the chainring, but I will take a closer look.

    Anyone know how to identify if I have a Type 2 RD or not?
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

  7. #7
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    Type 2 derailleurs have much higher spring tension on the cage. if you can push the lower pulley towards the crankset with 1 finger then you do not have a type 2 derailleur.

    SRAM X0 TYPE 2 Rear Derailleur | SRAM
    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    If I told you I saw a unicorn ****ing a leprechaun trail side, you'd probably be suspicious.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeopleForScience View Post
    Type 2 derailleurs have much higher spring tension on the cage. if you can push the lower pulley towards the crankset with 1 finger then you do not have a type 2 derailleur.

    SRAM X0 TYPE 2 Rear Derailleur | SRAM
    I was just reading about these. Do they does anyone have experience whether or not they work as described? Do you give up anything as far as shifting?
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

  9. #9
    Carbon & Ti rule
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    It sounds to me that the inner limit screw on the front derailieur is not adjusted in enough.

    I see people have this type of problem often & 95% of the time the fix is , put the bike in the 1.1 gear & adjust the limit screw so that the left hand side of the derailieur is just touching the chain, Then back the screw off about 1/2 a turn.

  10. #10
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    Yes, had exact problem. See my write-up on the fix:

    Gear Review SRAM X.0 Type 2*Derailleur - Journal - Home

  11. #11
    Moosehead
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    It sounds to me that the inner limit screw on the front derailieur is not adjusted in enough.

    I see people have this type of problem often & 95% of the time the fix is , put the bike in the 1.1 gear & adjust the limit screw so that the left hand side of the derailieur is just touching the chain, Then back the screw off about 1/2 a turn.
    ^This. Tighten lower limit screw, clockwise turn(s) to stop your chain from going inboard so much.

  12. #12
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    I am running type 2 RD X0 2x10 and it works great.

  13. #13
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    Good write-up. This was my situation as well (even did the plastic-stuck-in-the derailleur-cage trick.) No amount of limit screw fiddling was going to solve this problem...
    I thought the Type 2 would help and now I know.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by herothedog View Post
    Yes, had exact problem. See my write-up on the fix:

    Gear Review SRAM X.0 Type 2*Derailleur - Journal - Home
    Excellent write up. I am going to see how the inner limit screw adjustment works first, for economical reasons, and then look to ultimately correct with a Type 2 RD.
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

  15. #15
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    Thread Revival & Forward Creaking Question

    PART 1: So I'm bringing this thread back because I am back to the original problem that I started in this thread. When the trail gets bumpy and I get a lot of chatter, I get really bad cases of chain drop from the 36T to the 24T. I am now on a 2013 Frame (warranty) and I did upgrade to a Type 2 RD, which seemed to solve the problem for a number of months. In the last few weeks I have been having horrible chain drop again.

    I have tried playing with the FD to limit out any space on the inside of the cage - this didn't help. I just swapped out my 36T chain ring - this didn't help. I am constantly adjusting the RD to no success. This is becoming extremely frustrating, especially since the last 2 weekends I've been riding in marathon races. Most of the time the problem occurs as I'm going over areas with a lot of trail chatter that are relatively flat. The rest of the time it happens as I pedal or shift out of a bumpy section into a flat.

    The only possible culprit I can think of at this time might be that my Bearing Clutch or Spring on my Type 2 RD is going bad and no longer functioning properly. In which case, I really didn't get my moneys worth as it is less than a year old.

    PART 2: I am also getting horrible creaking and knocking from the front headset area. This occurs each time the fork loads. I assume it is a bad bearing in the headset, but was wondering if anyone else has had this problem on a J9RDO. It would surprise me if the headset bearing is bad because it is a few years old and I've never had one go out before.

    If anyone having similar problems, or better yet can provide some other items to check, I would really appreciate it.
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

  16. #16
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    As I described before, my SRAM XX group suffered chain drop on rough terrain in crossed-over gears as soon as the chainrings became even slightly worn. Everything was set up perfectly (limit screws, cable tension, chainline etc.) This year I switched to a full XTR set-up (including Shadow Plus r. der.) and I don't recall dropping my chain even once. I would have assumed a SRAM clutch derailleur would have solved my problems as well but I was tired of SRAM's overall poor quality construction so I ditched it. You say the Type 2 derailleur solved your issues for quite a while then it started again. My guess is your big chainring is now worn out.

    Regarding your fork, is it a Fox? They often creak at the crown/stanchion/steerer interface. It's well-documented and annoying. Sometimes a bit of oil in all the press-fit areas of the crown will help. Also make sure the spring/damper top caps are torqued properly. This, of course, assumes you've already checked the usual suspects -- headset, front skewer etc.

  17. #17
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    creaking could be headset or linkages. easiest way to deal with it is snug every bolt on the bike and see if it goes away.

    as for the chain drop issue, I was speaking with my wrench buddy today and he mentioned running too short a chain can cause premature failure of clutch RDs. not sure if that is the issue here, but wanted to mention it.

  18. #18
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    It is possible to tighten a type 2 derailleur. It might void the warranty though. Mine came loose after about 6 months and needed a good snugging, its been fine for a year since.
    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    If I told you I saw a unicorn ****ing a leprechaun trail side, you'd probably be suspicious.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dry Cownty Brewer View Post

    I have tried playing with the FD to limit out any space on the inside of the cage - this didn't help. I just swapped out my 36T chain ring - this didn't help. I am constantly adjusting the RD to no success. This is becoming extremely frustrating, especially since the last 2 weekends I've been riding in marathon races. Most of the time the problem occurs as I'm going over areas with a lot of trail chatter that are relatively flat. The rest of the time it happens as I pedal or shift out of a bumpy section into a flat.
    I have just read this thread and I can't find if you mention exactly what front derailleur you are using.

    I am about to build a Jet 9 carbon next month and I had to choose a matching SRAM FD and 3x10 crankset to get the gearing and hopefully shifting and chain retention I am after.

    So my question have you got the optimum FD for your chainring configuration?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by PlanB View Post
    My guess is your big chainring is now worn out.
    This was my first suspicion recently. The big chain ring 36T was just swapped out 2 weeks ago. It only has approximately 120 miles on it right now. I did notice the new ring does not have the silver peg on the inside that the ring I replaced has, but this should only facilitate pedaling the chain back on and would have no effect on the chain drop issue.
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by tri-tele View Post
    creaking could be headset or linkages. easiest way to deal with it is snug every bolt on the bike and see if it goes away.

    as for the chain drop issue, I was speaking with my wrench buddy today and he mentioned running too short a chain can cause premature failure of clutch RDs. not sure if that is the issue here, but wanted to mention it.
    By now, I am due to go through every linkage and clean and lubricate.

    As far as the chain. I installed using SRAM's recommended method for a FS bike. 'Removed shock, fully compressed suspension. Wrap chain around big ring and big cog (36/36), without passing through the RD. Go one full link past connection point and add master link.'
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozynigma View Post
    I have just read this thread and I can't find if you mention exactly what front derailleur you are using.

    I am about to build a Jet 9 carbon next month and I had to choose a matching SRAM FD and 3x10 crankset to get the gearing and hopefully shifting and chain retention I am after.

    So my question have you got the optimum FD for your chainring configuration?
    Not sure if it is optimum or the right configuration. I am running an XO FD direct mount. What I don't like about this direct mount is that there is no way to adjust the angle of the cage to better accommodate the full range of gears, even on the 2x10. In other words, you still get certain gear combinations that provide contact from the chain to the cage. What I have read is that XTR direct mounts have some adjustability
    in the cage to help with this issue.
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeopleForScience View Post
    It is possible to tighten a type 2 derailleur. It might void the warranty though. Mine came loose after about 6 months and needed a good snugging, its been fine for a year since.
    Do you have a link to instructions? Because it might be time for me to do that.

    FWIW: I bought this Type 2 on FlEaBay, and it is clearly a "Gray Market" item. Others have purchased the same RD with no issue. But I have no issue tinkering with this one. What still bothers me is why I am having this problem when so many other Jet 9 RDO owners out there do not have a Type 2 RD and don't have a chain drop problem.
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dry Cownty Brewer View Post
    Not sure if it is optimum or the right configuration. I am running an XO FD direct mount. What I don't like about this direct mount is that there is no way to adjust the angle of the cage to better accommodate the full range of gears, even on the 2x10. In other words, you still get certain gear combinations that provide contact from the chain to the cage. What I have read is that XTR direct mounts have some adjustability
    in the cage to help with this issue.
    I haven't installed mine yet but here is some of what I found in my research.

    Here is a range of the X0 FD's.

    wiggle.com.au | SRAM X0 10 Speed (2x10) Front Derailleur | Derailleurs Front - MTB

    There are at least two s3 models for different maximum size chainrings.

    I also found this that indicates that Shimano don't make a suitable low direct mount (without modding an e type).

    S3 Direct Mount Front Mech Singletrack Forum

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by PlanB View Post
    Regarding your fork, is it a Fox? They often creak at the crown/stanchion/steerer interface. It's well-documented and annoying. Sometimes a bit of oil in all the press-fit areas of the crown will help. Also make sure the spring/damper top caps are torqued properly. This, of course, assumes you've already checked the usual suspects -- headset, front skewer etc.
    It is a Fox Talas 32. I'll research and see if there are any solutions, as well as go over all the other usual suspects.
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

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