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  1. #1
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    142x12 or 135x12 rear dropout for 2010 Rip9

    I need to replace my rear hub (135 QR) on my 2010 RIP9. I am interested in increasing rear wheel connection stiffness. When I spoke with Niner, they said a 135 x 10mm bolt-on axle would not work, but doing a search it seems some folks may have done this. Does anyone have direct experience with this on the standard dropout?

    If I go the 12mm route, does the dropout for 142 x12mm TB fit the 2010 rip frame, or is it only for the current frame, and do I need to get the 135 x 12mm dropout (maxle) kit? I would prefer the 142 over the 135 if possible, since this seems to be the direction of the industry standard.

    I appreciate any guidance.

  2. #2
    Carbon & Ti rule
    Reputation: muzzanic's Avatar
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    I have used the 10mm RWS through axle with the std open drop out's & it worked fine.
    I did have the 12mm maxle but it was a pain swapping wheels from my Rip9 to Jet9 so I went back to 10mm.
    So your call, but if you decide to go 12mm I would go 142 x 12

  3. #3
    Laker and a Trail Blazer
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    FWIW, I have broken 2 thru axles 135x12 maxle. I9 classics. I have an extra axle in my pack now.
    This was on 2010 XL frame.

  4. #4
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    Just broke my first 12x135 rear maxle today. About 2 hours into a great ride in Santa Cruz. I was jumping but it still surprised me because it was on a relatively smooth transition. Rear wheel stopped immediately and launched me superman style like I was sliding into home plate. Good thing it was relatively soft. I thought about your post Broncstad (about how you keep a spare in your pack now). I was wishing I had taken your advice earlier. Now I will not leave home without one. PS I'm 6'4" 225# on an XL Rip 9.

  5. #5
    Laker and a Trail Blazer
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    Sucks. My guess is that a crack was forming and finally snapped on the little jump. I'm changing hubs soon. Hopefully it'll be fine.

  6. #6
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    From what I have read 142x12 and 135x12 are the same except the 142 is easier to install. With that said I have a few comments and questions.

    From what I understand the 142 has direct support from hub to frame where the 135 does not. All the stress from the wheel is placed directly on the 135 axel. Is this correct? Even the QR hubs have flanges that connect the hub to the frame.

    With that said can either of you who have broken 135x12 axels answer some questions.

    Have either of you broken a 135 QR on this or another bike? I'm heavy and ride with little finesse, but I have never bent/broken a rear axle.

    Where are these breaking? Edge, middle? Do you know what causes the brake? Lateral Frame stress or forces transferred through the wheel? From what I stated above I would think itís wheel stress or combination.

    One last question: Did you notice the increased frame stiffness when you installed the 12mm axel? Or another way to askÖ Is it worth it?

    Thanks
    Dan

  7. #7
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    I'm very happy with my new RIP that has the 142x12. I know that's not very helpful since ever use the bike with a QR, but I can't think of a reason not to go with the 142.

  8. #8
    Laker and a Trail Blazer
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2wheelsarefun View Post

    With that said can either of you who have broken 135x12 axels answer some questions.

    Have either of you broken a 135 QR on this or another bike? I'm heavy and ride with little finesse, but I have never bent/broken a rear axle.
    6'4" 190 without gear. Never broken a quick release.
    Where are these breaking? Edge, middle? Do you know what causes the brake? Lateral Frame stress or forces transferred through the wheel? From what I stated above I would think it’s wheel stress or combination.
    I'm not sure why but mine have broken right where the thread start.
    One last question: Did you notice the increased frame stiffness when you installed the 12mm axel? Or another way to ask… Is it worth it?
    It's really hard for me to compare my rig to my old garbage giant fs 26er craigslist special, but yes my RIPper is way stiffer.
    Thanks
    Dan
    Bottom line for me is I would not have bought these hubs and this bigger axle set up for increased stiffness if I knew that they are gunna snap 2 or 3 times in 20 months.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the details. Have you requested a 142 upgrade from niner? It would be interesting to hear who it works for you.

  10. #10
    lamer
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    I ran the 142x12 kit on my RIP9 and never had a problem with the axle. I'm about 200 lbs on an XL frame. The one problem I did have is that the non-drive-side dropout didn't fit into my '09 frame. I had to grind it down a little. I'm fairly certain that another user on here confirmed that it fit fine in his '10 frame, though.


    From what I understand the 142 has direct support from hub to frame where the 135 does not. All the stress from the wheel is placed directly on the 135 axel. Is this correct? Even the QR hubs have flanges that connect the hub to the frame.
    No, the 142mm has no flanges for the hub. All of the weight is on the axle.

  11. #11
    Drinkin' the 29er KoolAid
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    Quote Originally Posted by llamma View Post
    No, the 142mm has no flanges for the hub. All of the weight is on the axle.
    Actually, yes it does. That's the big difference between the 135x12 and 142x12 standard. 142x12 hubs have 3mm longer end caps that sit into 3mm pockets in the frame dropouts. I'd say most if not all of the weight is sitting on the hub end caps and the axle is primarily used to lock the hub in place.

  12. #12
    lamer
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    Oops, crap, you are 100% correct. I'm sorry. I'm not sure what I was thinking. I even have a pic of one of the dropouts


  13. #13
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    Just an update. I ended up getting the 142x12 drop our from Niner, along with a new rear hub. I have been riding on it for almost 6 months now without issue. When I first started riding with it, I noticed an immediate increase in rear wheel stiffness compared to the old quick release hub that broke.

    One question - when I first had the wheel with the new hub built and installed with the 142x12 maxle, I seem to recall a red part that covered the thread of the maxle sticking out beyond the gear side drop out. It is now missing and a fair lenght of unprotected thread is exposed (to possible damge during a fall). For those that have this, is there such a part that protects the thread?
    Thanks

  14. #14
    lamer
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    My kit from Niner did not have anything like that, no. I'm sure of that

  15. #15
    Drinkin' the 29er KoolAid
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    My 142x12 upgrade kit didn't come with any kind of cap. When you think about it there is a lot more on the drive side that sticks out to sustain damage before those threads will!

    Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

  16. #16
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    135 mill to 142

    Quote Originally Posted by llamma View Post
    Oops, crap, you are 100% correct. I'm sorry. I'm not sure what I was thinking. I even have a pic of one of the dropouts

    Who thinks it is possible to mill the 135 version to the 142?
    I believe i have the 135mm version and i need the 142.

    Martijn

  17. #17
    lamer
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    Re: 142x12 or 135x12 rear dropout for 2010 Rip9

    I guess anything is possible. To do it right I'd think you'd have to get your hands on the 142 dropouts for measurements, but then I'd guess having them in your hand would solve your first problem.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by llamma View Post
    I guess anything is possible. To do it right I'd think you'd have to get your hands on the 142 dropouts for measurements, but then I'd guess having them in your hand would solve your first problem.
    Nah, you only need the hub to determine the shape/size of the mill, then mill that shape 3.5mm deep on each side.

    Buuuuuuut... unless you have access to a milling friend or a mill and are going to do this yourself, setup charge will kill this project as it will be more than swapping to a 142 frame.

    Way to bring up an old post!

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