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Thread: 11-32 v 11-34

  1. #1
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    11-32 v 11-34

    How much difference will there really be in a 11-32 vs an 11-34? I've got a 2x9 setup right now. Just went 22-36 and still have overlap of at least 3 gears.

    I can go max 16 Mph in 1 and 26 in 2 comfortably.

    Just curious. Thanks.
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    The only difference would be gaining a little more grunt with the 34t rear cog. There will be no difference in top end speed since both cassettes have an 11t cog. Not worth changing one way or another IMO. I personally run a 11-32 with a 24/36 double .
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoomingSooner
    How much difference will there really be in a 11-32 vs an 11-34? I've got a 2x9 setup right now. Just went 22-36 and still have overlap of at least 3 gears.

    I can go max 16 Mph in 1 and 26 in 2 comfortably.

    Just curious. Thanks.

    What about 11-36?

    Plug your wheel/tire size in, your crank arm length, your 22 and 36 chainrings and the cassettes you are considering to get all the ratios, gear inches, etc... .

    Here's the place.

    Looks like your gear inches for the granny bailout would be 18.8 with your 22 ring and 34 cog, and it would be 19.9 with the 22/32 granny combo.

    BB

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    Thanks Double B.
    I'll look at the 36.

    I was worried when I went to the smaller 22 up front there would be a gap. There wasn't. All I did was go from 4 gears of overlap to about 2.5-3. I really think it is never bad to have too much granny if you are not giving up anything else.
    Thanks guys.
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    Him, "I can't. I have to chop this guys foot off at 2".

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoomingSooner
    Thanks Double B.
    I'll look at the 36.

    I was worried when I went to the smaller 22 up front there would be a gap. There wasn't. All I did was go from 4 gears of overlap to about 2.5-3. I really think it is never bad to have too much granny if you are not giving up anything else.
    Thanks guys.
    You don't need a 36T, I was just ribbing you into considering the new SRAM 10 speed cassette. I think the 36T in the rear would be nice with something like 29/42 double rings on a 29"er, otherwise - with your size chainrings you don't need such a low end range with a 22T ring up front unless you are in some serious touring or mountain slow grind climbing. But if that were the case, a 20T ring up front would be a better/lighter ticket.

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    The whole thing started with the vanity that is RED BLING of the SRAM Red cassettes.
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  7. #7
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    Looking at it another way,With the 11-32 there is less gap between the gears & I find that I am more inclined to ride a gear higher & push with closer gears.

    On my Jet for XC type rides/races ( I'm going 10 speed ) I will run the Ultregra 11-28,

    I just find for me if the next gear is closer in cadence I am more likely to change up & push,

  8. #8
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    Also worthy of mention is an Action Tec chainring in 21T or 20T. Much cheaper than a cassette and quite blingy. Of course gearing will then change across 9 speeds instead of just one, so take that into consideration.

    JMH

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    You have to be carefull with the Action Tec 20T on some cranks too, I used it on M970 XTR and had issues with the chain getting jambed in between the 20 and the 32, switched back to the OEM 22 and had no problems.
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    this thread got me really interested in understanding gearing more, i punched in my numbers in the above link, but i dont understand any of it, im kind of lost, care to explain gearing to a noob? im running hammerschmidt 170mm arms with i believe is 22-36t i have to double check that, with a shimano hgs 12-36t in the rear...i didnt see the shimano 12-36so i used the sram 11-36 i figured it was close enough, i could be wrong though?

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    Quote Originally Posted by david8613
    this thread got me really interested in understanding gearing more, i punched in my numbers in the above link, but i dont understand any of it, im kind of lost, care to explain gearing to a noob? im running hammerschmidt 170mm arms with i believe is 22-36t i have to double check that, with a shimano hgs 12-36t in the rear...i didnt see the shimano 12-36so i used the sram 11-36 i figured it was close enough, i could be wrong though?
    Well the 1st thing to note is that nothing is for free & everything is a trade off.

    With biking the world helps the strong & the light & works against the rest.

    These are just numbers so they will be out but most but not all people put out there best power over small RPM range maybe 75 to 95 rpm

    The wider the gear range ie 11-36 the more rpm difference between gears I have not worked it out maybe 10 rpm were as with my road bike 11-25 there is only about 4 rpm between the gears.

    Note: With the 11-36 you will spend more time under or over your best power compaired to an 11-32 if infact you are not spending all your time in 36.
    So in short the larger the gear ie 36 1st gear cassette the closer you can get to your sweet spot rpm wise on a very steep climb ( not stalling ) but you get int the aera were you are just spinning & not making that much power & the next gear is to hard for you to push & thus costing you speed.

    Were as if you were able to push a 32 1st gear cassette it would be harder to get to your sweet spot but once there changing up is less of a jump so you are more inclined to do it & stay in your best power zone making more speed.

    Hope this helps I could go on for ages but that is the easy way to say it.

    So IMO you are best to push the smallest 1st gear cassette you can if you are trying to go faster.

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    wow thanks, that was great... i picked up the 12-36t because from my reading it would help with the 29er wheels...but now i think im gonna pick me up another cassette to compare, i know i hate it when the gears jump to much between gears, i had a bike once that i loved the gearing so much and it was so smooth...it probably was a 32T.

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    Quote Originally Posted by david8613
    wow thanks, that was great... i picked up the 12-36t because from my reading it would help with the 29er wheels...but now i think im gonna pick me up another cassette to compare, i know i hate it when the gears jump to much between gears, i had a bike once that i loved the gearing so much and it was so smooth...it probably was a 32T.
    Yes it is good to have a couple of options,I use a 32 for XC & 34 for hills

    That is the thinking behind the 10 speed you can have the 36 1st gear & still have the rest closer together.

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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic
    Well the 1st thing to note is that nothing is for free & everything is a trade off.

    These are just numbers so they will be out but most but not all people put out there best power over small RPM range maybe 75 to 95 rpm

    So IMO you are best to push the smallest 1st gear cassette you can if you are trying to go faster.
    I hadn't really given this topic much thought but after reading this thread and comparing muzzanic's comments with my own observations I have to agree.

    I have two wheelsets for my MCR - one with 11-34 and the other w/ 11-27 which is primarily meant for commuting. Last year I pulled a spoke through one of the commuter rims and while waiting for a replacement was commuting w/ the 11-34. When I switched wheels I noticed an increase in my commute time (it is 25 miles each way with numerous hills so I am very tuned into the time). Since I record all of my rides w/ a Garmin I was able to compare and try to determine where the difference was coming in.

    It turns out that I was losing time on the hills - my habit on steep climbs was to drop into the big gear in the back and find a comfortable cadence and w/ the 34 that cadence resulted in a much slower speed. When I was finally able to switch back to the 11-27 my commute times dropped by several minutes. Obviously if I were more disciplined I could force myself to use a taller gear with any cassette but given that I am a lazy man, that isn't likely to happen.

  15. #15
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    Going to a 36t cog on a 29er is like riding a 32t cog on a 26" bike, there is 11% more leverage required for one revolution on the 29er. Different wheel sizes.

    If you found riding a 26" bike in the granny was needed where you ride, you may consider the 36T as a way to get back the gear you lost when you made the switch to 29er.

    -edit- Of course there are other factors like angle of attack of the wheel but let's just stay on the gearing issue.

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    i noticed on my hammerschmidt i have another chain ring from the website it shows i currently have the 22/36 on her right now, and i have the 24/38 in the box, what should i run with 12-36 cassette?

    http://www.magicmechanics.com/home.p.../all_mountain/

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    Quote Originally Posted by FASTK
    Going to a 36t cog on a 29er is like riding a 32t cog on a 26" bike, there is 11% more leverage required for one revolution on the 29er. Different wheel sizes.

    If you found riding a 26" bike in the granny was needed where you ride, you may consider the 36T as a way to get back the gear you lost when you made the switch to 29er.

    -edit- Of course there are other factors like angle of attack of the wheel but let's just stay on the gearing issue.
    Yes you are right & some people just won't be able to push a 32 & the 36 will save there legs for the fun part.

    But if you are light enough or strong enough to push a smaller 1st gear the closer gears my well be better for you.

    I have just brought a 11-28 for my new Jet9 for XC use only but I will also own 11-32 11-34 & 11- 36

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    Quote Originally Posted by david8613
    i noticed on my hammerschmidt i have another chain ring from the website it shows i currently have the 22/36 on her right now, and i have the 24/38 in the box, what should i run with 12-36 cassette?

    http://www.magicmechanics.com/home.p.../all_mountain/
    Run it with what it has now & if you are finding it easy to pedal uphill go to the 24/38

    everybody has there own idea's

    Myself I would run the 24/38 on the 12/36 because that would suit my legs & tracks better.

  19. #19
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    ill try that as soon as this crazy new jersey weather lets up, the forcast looks good for this weekend. i have a funny feeling that im going to end up liking the 24/38, i like using more strength rather than a faster candence.

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    This whole time, I thought the bigger rings (front and rear) equated to greater speed. Turns out that with the cassette, the bigger rings are the granny gear. I feel dumb as hell. I'm still sticking with an 11-32 (I think), but I thought I was going 11-32, initially, to have a lower top gear, since I don;t get up to huge speeds. Funny, and kinda embarrassing, haha.

  21. #21
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    I have an 11-36 and a 11-34.
    I also tried both a 32-42 (ie triple with no granny until my crankset arrived) and now use a 28-42 upfront.

    With the 11-34 : 32-42 I simply didn't have a low enough gear to crank up steep climbs and I'd consider myself a fairly decent climber.

    With the 11-36 : 28-42 I rode a 24 hour race without using the big ring once or ever feeling I didn't have a low enough gear.

    Best of luck
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  22. #22
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    I run six 9-speed cogs on a single speed hub. My 30 lbs. trail bike had a 14-28 cassette driven by a 25t chain ring this morning, I had to end my ride short as I simply could not make the climbs.

    I switched the cassette to an 17-34 this evening, can't wait to hit the trail again with the lower gears.

    I'm not in the best of shape and believe ones decision on gearing is heavily dependent on your conditioning, be realistic about this factor and select gear ratios accordingly.

  23. #23
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    I am sorry that i brought up this thread. After wearing out my 11-34 cassette XTR CS-970-Be 11-34T i change as planned the chain and the cassette i did go with also again XTR CS-970-Ba 11-32T so my point is that if i should or not have kept the same length of my new chain as the old one. Are there gonna be any problems with using the same length of chain at a 11-32 Cassette? Also is there by any chance that i would see any problems using the XTR M-972 Carbon Cage derailleur back with the 11-32 Cassette? Also i have to mention it i am Using the XTR FC-M970 22/32/44.

    Also one more mention, At 22t front and 11t back the chain didn't hit nowhere the cage.

    I haven't ride it yet the new setup, i hope i didn't do any mistakes.

    It's the first time that i am taking apart those parts of my bike so i am a bit skeptical if i have done the right choices.

    If someone can point me if there is a mistake please inform me

    Thank you and sorry for bringing this old thread back.

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