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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Garnetchu View Post
    Thinking which shock is better for g16
    Bos void // void2
    Float x2

    Both size are 222
    I have a Bos Void Air on my V10C. Nice shock, seal kit and rebuild cost is lower than a X2. Unsure if Bos is still a company? Looking to try a X2

  2. #102
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    Hi,

    I will buy a used geometron longer soon, and I would like to know if it is better a fox float x prepared mojo or a fox float x2 not prepared.(or vivid air and cane creek db air).
    This will be my do it all bike (downhill, bike park and all mountain)
    Is it possible to put a damper in 222x70mm like the g16 to have 175 mm of travel?

    best regards
    nicolas

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUNKY View Post
    I have a Bos Void Air on my V10C. Nice shock, seal kit and rebuild cost is lower than a X2. Unsure if Bos is still a company? Looking to try a X2
    I had a void on my Ion. I didn't like it as much as the X2 I must confess, I struggled not with getting the air chamber right for me. Good shock though.
    GeoMetron was designed around the X2 if that helps.

  4. #104
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    It depend on the version whip. The used GeoMeteon if it is before the 2017 range requires longer chainstays to fit the 222 shock.
    Chris P did still have some. They can be ordered From Nicolai or you can try and find the few that have been modded.
    Depending on the size you want I know where there is one (frsmeset) that may be for sale with the Longer rear already installed.
    The guy loves the bike but because of some specific requirements he has mainly around his riding style he wants to return to the slightly shorter chainstay and to size down to a Longer version of the same bike but not lose the advantages of the overall length and feel of the bike for him. His bike is a Longest(L) so would suit someone between 178cm and up to 190 ish cm.

  5. #105
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    thanks the pilot.
    my future geometron is 2016.
    do you know the price of longer chainstay from mojo?
    so a float X2 standard is better than a float X evol prepared by mojo if i understand well ( sorry i'm french)

  6. #106
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    For the longer travel bike I would say so. A Mojo Float X is a great shock however.
    I'll ask about the chainstay.

  7. #107
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    tanks a lot the pilot

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    I had a void on my Ion. I didn't like it as much as the X2 I must confess, I struggled not with getting the air chamber right for me. Good shock though.
    GeoMetron was designed around the X2 if that helps.
    X2 was vapourware when I picked up the Void. If it hadn't been for the price I likely would have gone a different route.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    So for G13 no major changes beyond the fact Mojo will likely fit a longer shock and make it slacker with a headset (to put the seat angle back) (based on my discussions) neither of which Nicolai wanted to do at this stage. We discussed 83mm BB too but G16 likely to be more distance/trail oriented than the G16/GeoMetron.

    Want to try it set up with a 27.5 rear wheel but geometry corrected, wanted the chain stay yoke changing to allow this and that has changed.
    Talking to Nicolai right now on ordering.
    If you wanted to go 29/27.5 Mixer what base would be best to start from?
    Longer shocked G13 (will Nicolai do this?) or G16 with longer CS/SS?

    I am getting a XL version of either.

  10. #110
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    Pilot, have you tried a coil in the Geometron? If so what are your thoughts.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by fartymarty View Post
    Pilot, have you tried a coil in the Geometron? If so what are your thoughts.
    I havent I'm afraid. But I am reliably informed by those who have and do that it works very well. Obviously they are more gravity focussed peeps than I.
    Aka chainline...

  12. #112
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    I see a G-16 in my very near future... what size do you think @189cm?
    thx

  13. #113
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    Raschaa depends a little on your riding style/desires. You would be good on a Longest/Large or an XL.. if you feel you may want to 'play' more or mess about on the back wheel then Longest would be better for all round duties I suspect, so normal riding as well as very committed riding.
    If when you ride it you will always be pushing for speed and always commited then the XL could work for you.
    Both will fit in terms of cockpit but will have a slightly different feel to you as you (like me) are anheight that easily spans either size depending on preference.
    I would expect you to prefer the Longest as an all rounder.

  14. #114
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    Excellent answer, thanks!
    Pretty much confirms my thoughts. Seeing that I have a full-on DH bike the G-16 would replace my Ion 16 as my do-it-all bike, meaning everything from relaxed all day rides to local enduro races. I was just slightly confused because my 1st gen. Ion16 (26") in L is way to small for me and a right pia on long rides...

    cheers

  15. #115
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    Hey,

    just had an interesting idea... what about if I ordered an L and asked to have the longer XL chainstays? Whata ya think?

  16. #116
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    I think 445mm is long enough for a Longer and you have the adjustable chainstay to 450mm if you want. I wouldn't, but it is your bike😉
    You going to buy the Nicolai version or the Mojo version?

  17. #117
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    We're a >300 member gravity oriented mtb club with a sponsoring deal with Nicolai so I will obviously be ordering directly at N

  18. #118
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    Clearly they are different as Nicolai chose not to produce the specification Mojo wanted in any of the G13, G16 or G19 models, which is of course their choice.
    Aka chainline...

  19. #119
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    I really would love a full mojo built 16 but I don't have the coin for that.... and in the greater scheme of things the geolution Nics are still very forward-thinking.

  20. #120
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    Have been order G16
    with FOX x2 222
    160mm FOX 36

    still looking a wheel
    Hope 35W pro4
    //
    DT wheels

    any suggestion

  21. #121
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    Excellent Why 160mm Fox 36 Garnetchu? Why not the 180mm if you will run 175mm rear? I guess perhaps you already have the 160mm.

    If that is the case, and it is the Nicolai version, I recommend fitting a -1 degree Cane Creek angleset with the EC56 lower cup for the best feeling. That should give you around 62-62.5 HA and a 338mm-340mm BB
    Aka chainline...

  22. #122
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    I am order the Nicolai ver
    The 160mm fork is come from my old ion 16, hahaha, trying to sell it so hard in 2nd hand market, haha

    Is it fit to install the 180mm fork in g16?

  23. #123
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    The 180mm is the best length in the G16 and with a -1 headset installed. But I would use a Works components one so the lower cup is ZS and the upper is EC.

    It's still great without a -1 angleset, but even better in my opinion with it.

    But if you use the 160mm fork, you want an External lower as I mentioned.
    Aka chainline...

  24. #124
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    Seeking the wheel for my g16 any suggestions 🙂?
    Hope w35 look new and wide
    180mm//170mm Fox36, 222 Float x2


    Hope Tech 35W-Pro 4 | Hope Tech | Made in Barnoldswick, England

    Hope Tech Enduro ? Pro 4 | Hope Tech | Made in Barnoldswick, England

  25. #125
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    My personal opinion is that wider isn't better on a GeoMetron as you lean this bike more. It feels different. However some People like it. I changed my Derby's to run narrower 26-30mm internal width rims as I feel the steering and agility is better but grip is not compromised due to the geometry and suspension.

  26. #126
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    Plan for myself is to run at max. 30mm internal width rims on the G16. But I'm in the 70kg category. And current rims are 30 and 33mm external width...

  27. #127
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    sorry for a stupid question, is the g16 222 float x2 come with a climb switch? or only the 215 size

  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    My personal opinion is that wider isn't better on a GeoMetron as you lean this bike more. It feels different. However some People like it. I changed my Derby's to run narrower 26-30mm internal width rims as I feel the steering and agility is better but grip is not compromised due to the geometry and suspension.
    Interesting. I tried some Ibis 942's on a ripley last year and I found that the wider rim with a more rounded tyre encouraged me to lean the bike further. I was thinking 30mm dt's until I saw the 35mm hopes, may hang fire on that decision for the time being.

    Have you had chance to try the 29er front yet?

    I've booked a room near Bike Park Wales and am driving down to demo a GeoMetron with 40's and hopefully both 29er and 27.5 front wheels next Tuesday so really looking forward to it.

  29. #129
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    A few pics to brighten up the day

    Current project, 2017, not finished yet. 27.5/29 setup. Will be using both the 40 and a 36 I think.
    Need to fit the crank, tune the fork for 175mm travel and balance the stantion position with offset bushes to get the BB to 338mm.

    All the other set up is my standard apart from the bar is a little high at present (will change when I've made the adjustments)

    Rider height 178cm

    BarEnd to BB - 915mm
    Centre of seatpost/saddle to centre of bar 680mm
    Stem 30mm
    Bar 800mm with ESIs
    Bar height 1110mm (Target back to 1070mm)
    BB - currently 343mm, planned 338mm
    Rear travel 155mm/175mm Front travel 175mm (29 wheel)
    Magic Mary in the front with 3mm clearance to arch
    Rear wheel Stans Bravo 32h built onto Hope Boost hub with CX-rays
    Front Wheel Enve AM built onto Hope hub, 20mm axle, CX-rays
    HA 61.3deg
    SA 76.5 deg
    CS set at 445mm currently (adjustable to 450mm)

    I will likely also run this with the 29 e-bike 36 with the stiffer crowm but 27.5 uppers and 29 lowers for longer travel as a comparison.

    You can see here the

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    Adjustable chainstay
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    New one piece CNC Yoke but with 83mm BB and wide bearing spacing
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    Through machining detail
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    Tyre clearance with 2.35 minion on 27mm internal rim
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    Tyre clearance on rear wheel at the front, room for the 29 wheel if desired.
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    Bike, sans crank
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    Aka chainline...

  30. #130
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    Nice.
    Are you using angled headset cups to get that HTA, offset bushings, or is that the HTA with a 40 and 27.5/29 wheels?

  31. #131
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    That's the angle before I go anywhere near it with bushes😊 It's partly due to the 29 front wheel and partly 40's. Because I have the stantions and travel high as it is there and the extra 12mm or so of 29 wheel.
    The stock HA is 62 with a 180mm 36. Lifting it 12mm takes a bit(not a lot) off that to around 61.5 and my a2c is slightly higher than 569mm. When I'm done adjusting the BB and the fork it should be around 61deg, the same as with the long travel 29 36 fork or a 27.5 with a -1. I like it around 61.

    The SA will be a hair under 76 so I may take the saddle slightly foreward to compensate too.

  32. #132
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    So while waiting for the folks at N to weld my frame (eta = week 26) I picked up a set of I9 Enduro Carbon wheels with orange hubs/spokes to compliment the orange ano parts on the G16...

    Seeing that I cannot salvage my 2x10 drive from the Ion16 I figured I'd go straight to Eagle 1x12. Do I need a boost crankset? As far as I can tell the X01 Cranks sold as boost just have a different chainring offset. Can somebody confirm that?

    I will be installing my XFusion Metric (a2c 570mm @ 180mm) and my XFusion Vector HLR Air (216mm) with a custom made air can with massive neg. chamber. Will pick up a 222mm shock when the Budget allows. I really would like to try that Extreme Shox Storia...

    Comments welcome
    ra

  33. #133
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    Still waiting my g16 and Just received my fork today
    I have a same question is I need to buy the boost ring?
    MMY thing transfer from my ion16
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-img_6072.jpg  

    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-img_6071.jpg  


  34. #134
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    You do need a boost ring for the Nicolai version assuming you haven't special ordered Mojo spec.
    To be clear: If you have the 73mm BB, you only need a boost chainring (particularly if it is spider less), not a boost crankset. Only the chainring is offset by 3mm.
    Aka chainline...

  35. #135
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    The same reply to Garnetchu.
    Aka chainline...

  36. #136
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    Had a demo day at bike park wales yesterday on a Longer geometron with 40's running 27.5 wheels. Completely blown away with how the bike rode.
    I've never had so much confidence in the front end of a bike before! Just ride the front and let the back end do it's own thing. I couldn't stop smiling all day. I don't think I've ever been able to ride new trails blind in in such a committed way as this bike let me. Complete revelation!!! The 40's worked great for me too. Due to the inability to run a Dfender with the 29er front in the 40's that idea is on hold for the time being, may try the e bike 36's on the front at some point but for my immediate needs the 27.5 40 equipped bike is the ticket.

  37. #137
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    Excellent Pigglet13, always like it when a plan comes together. You clearly clicked early with the changes to how to ride it, some people naturally want to ride that way, me being one of them.

    I'm less worried about the defender at the moment. I'm going to try a Mavic Charge, one of my favourite 27.5 tyres on the front in 29 form as the profile is slightly lower than a MM. I'm also going to try the e-bike fork with the 180mm 27.5 uppers on 44 offset. pretty easy to swop lowers for wheel size then as mentioned.

    It'd be nice to have a 29er 40, boost with a 20mm axle.....or even a triple clamp 36.. anyone interested in a triple clamp 36 at around 2kg weight with bigger air chambers a la 40. I am having sampled the advantages of a 40 [hatches evil plan....]
    Aka chainline...

  38. #138
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    Funnily I didn't adapt my riding at all, I just got on it and rode in pretty much the same way as I always do but without having to worry about front end tuck. I guess that's why on my "little" bikes I've been running 4 orange volume spacers!
    I think Tobie was amused by my enthusiasm coupled with a very average skill set and the tail happy antics that resulted.

    What a piece of kit! And as for the 40's....... supple doesn't even do them justice. Finally found a bike that suits my riding and just lets me concentrate on riding rather than constantly trying to position my body in a way that's either not going to have me going over the bars or not going to have me un loading the front. Total revelation.

    Cant wait to get one and see what difference it makes to my more technical home trails.

    I can forsee a G13 29er for my everyday trail bike duties in the future too.

    I see what you mean about grip, with weight in the correct place it's there in spades, way more than I've experienced before. Granted it was bone dry and on man made trails but I wouldn't have dared ride my existing bike the way the Geometron let me.

    My existing 29er was a big leap from my smaller older bike but the Geometron is on another level.

    Having switched to 36's for general trail/XC riding and loved the extra stiffness, the 40's just seemed an even bigger step in the right direction for relatively little weight trade off. I'll happily take the extra weight for the way they ride.


    Still buzzing from yesterday and my MTB eureka moment!

  39. #139
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    Sweet!

    I'd be interested in a 36 triple clamp. I don't believe Boost is needed. I've had no issue with the bolt on axle of the 36s on my 29er hardtail trail bike. The Dorado and MRP fork work with 29ers.
    Im undecided on tire selection; go with my standard DHRII up front, or a Shorty(3mm arch clearance with Magic Mary is concerning), or try a Mavic or Michelin tires.

  40. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUNKY View Post
    Sweet!

    I'd be interested in a 36 triple clamp. I don't believe Boost is needed. I've had no issue with the bolt on axle of the 36s on my 29er hardtail trail bike. The Dorado and MRP fork work with 29ers.
    Im undecided on tire selection; go with my standard DHRII up front, or a Shorty(3mm arch clearance with Magic Mary is concerning), or try a Mavic or Michelin tires.
    The 36 is already a triple clamp, the crown clamps both stanchions and the steerer (3).
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  41. #141
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    Pilot- I am near to completing my G13 XL order.
    Looking through these threads I would like to run an X2 but they only come longer no 190mm.
    So , am I correct to assume that I can run a 200mm X2 with a Fox 36 @ 150? No angleset needed?
    Where can I get the adjustable chainstay ? Mojo directly?

  42. #142
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    So when is this happening for the public?

  43. #143
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    You can't currently run an X2 on a G13 unless it's a custom to take it. It was asked for but...
    Tou can run it with a Mojo G16 and 29 or pay for a custom (Mojo sold a few custom 150mm rear, X2 equipped G13's.
    The chainstay is now std I believe, certainly on G16, check on G13 with Nic Or Mojo or I can find out for you.
    You don't need an angleset on any of them it depends on preference for ride.

  44. #144
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    Hehe. No word on that but I did know it was out there...except there's no 20mm axle boost hub out there either...you would have thought they would talk no!
    Likely 2018 model year if successful.

  45. #145
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    If it's a 2018 model in MTN Bike product cycles it's only a month or two away. Haha.

  46. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    Hehe. No word on that but I did know it was out there...except there's no 20mm axle boost hub out there either...you would have thought they would talk no!
    Likely 2018 model year if successful.
    If you compare the front Boost hubs 15mm vs Non Boost 20mm. The flange spacing advantage is so small it seems almost irrelevant. The rear hub is where you get the real spoke triangulation advantage.

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