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Thread: Helius AM flex?

  1. #1
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    Helius AM flex?

    Hi I'm 220 lbs and i just got a Helius AM frame. I feel some flex on the rear sometimes specially on going through diagonally a rut.

    My setup is regular qr at the back. With industry9 allmountain wheels/rims with maxxis high roller 2.35. The rims are about 26mm wide. Also running ghetto tubeless on them.

    I'm wondering if I should upgrade the axle to 10mm axle( Dtswiss rws axle) or get wider rims because maybe the rims are too narrow that the tires are just flexing or rolling off the rim a little bit.

  2. #2
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    I feel a bit of flex in the back of my AM... I have 2.5 Big Betties tubeless at 25psi on Flow rims with a 12mm bolt through... but I'm comparing it with my Nucleon which has ZERO flex. The flex is not bothering me, and neither is the flex in the Fox 36 floats compared with the Travis on the Nukey... I'm too busy enjoying the performance benefits.

    There are a few comments splattered about this forum from people saying they could not feel the difference between a QR frame and a 12mm frame... but I would probably still go for the 10mm option because I have little faith in QR's for heavy duty riding, and having a QR fail is a nightmare.

    Flow rims are 28mm wide and I doubt 2mm will make a big difference.

  3. #3
    steep fast and loose :)
    Reputation: The_Lecht_Rocks's Avatar
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    i sense no flex here on QR. i did on my turner 6 pack in comparison however.
    im 200lbs fully kitted however. i run 5.1D's on a selection of rubber.
    my AM is one of the originals with the cut-out in the chainstay. whether this would exacerbate the flex or not , i don't know - i'm not a civil engineer.
    nicolai's are built strong, not light, and any flex is wasted energy, but some flex can also assist the handling by stopping the wheel to trail interface being too wooden and losing compliance. i.e. some flex correctly engineered is a good thing.

    hth

  4. #4
    local trails rider
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    Can you detect where the flex is coming from, by pulling on the stays or the wheel?

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    I tried to force the wheel side to side. There's some movement on the tire side to side of the rim. There's also a little bit on the frame but I can see that much flex on my brother's Turner DHR. There's also a faint clicking noise I'm not sure if coming from the frame or hub.

    I wanna try a crappy spare wheel I have but it has 10mm axle and much wider rim. I'm thinking that if that solve the problem. I can't tell if the axle or the wider rim solved the problem. But I guess at least I'll find out if the problem is in the frame or the wheel.

  6. #6
    "Its All Good"
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    Flex is not something spoken of commonly re Nicolai frames..... Hope you find a logical fix..
    The_Lecht_Rocks: whafe - cheeers - may i offer an official apology for the wagon wheeler "dis-belief"

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    After elimininating most typical sources of rear flexing like too loose skewer, not enough pressure in too wide tyre with too small rim and after changing QR to 10mm or 12mm TA etc... check the tightness of linkages -

    Have seen now one AC and two AM`s, quite new ones after few months usage flexing a bit because linkages are loosened -
    1) check tighness of both rocker links - seems that they are 1st ones when loosen
    2) check horst links from both sides
    3) check also lower swingarm link
    Ive adjusted tightness of all those that there`s not sideflex but the own weight of rear end (without the wheel) have to be enough for causing smooth movement downwards when rear shock is taken away. Ive also used water-resistant petroleum jelly (Yamaha sea-vaseline) in bearings when opening those.

  8. #8
    "El Whatever"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whafe
    Flex is not something spoken of commonly re Nicolai frames..... Hope you find a logical fix..
    Yup... my AC is stiffer than my Switchblade was... and the SB was a stiff mofo.

    Also, my bearings from factory were a little stiff. The bike could barely rotate when the rear shock was not in. Now it goes down more easily but still tight, but not notchy or seized. No side play, no movement, no anything... but of course you can expect bearings loosening up a little after some use.

    Check all pivot points.
    Check my Site

  9. #9
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    Yeah, I tightened it and got rid of half of the noodly feeling . It really looks like I need to change to wider rims . What a waste. I have an almost new Industry nine AM wheels. What do you think should I do? Relace to a wider rim or Just sell it and get a different wheel?

  10. #10
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    Bigger tires needs bigger wheels (wider and stronger rims). Changing rim is an option, but why not keep your I9 wheelset like it is and mount some lighter and better rolling 2.1 - 2.3 tyres to it. And take another one burlier wheelset (maybe full UST?) for bigger tyres?

    If you use only one wheelset, you`re are most times using tires which are "good allrounders" or which perform well only in specific conditions. Or changing tyres twice per week Two (or more) wheelsets with different types of tires makes living easier - it takes ~ 1 minute to change wheels when needed.

  11. #11
    "Its All Good"
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    What are the actual rims on your I9 Wheels?
    The_Lecht_Rocks: whafe - cheeers - may i offer an official apology for the wagon wheeler "dis-belief"

  12. #12
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    It's industry nine AM rims supposedly 26mm. I'm using maxxis highrollers 2.35 on ghetto tubeless.

  13. #13
    from 0 - sideways 3.2 sec
    Reputation: derekr's Avatar
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    I'd doubt you'd feel the flex in the AM unless you ride it VERY hard like the pimp does.
    Visit - www.gravity-sports.co.uk - Exclusive high end MTB Products

  14. #14
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    yeah. I got that figured out that it's not coming from the frame.

  15. #15
    "Its All Good"
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    Who is making the I9 rims?
    The_Lecht_Rocks: whafe - cheeers - may i offer an official apology for the wagon wheeler "dis-belief"

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