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Thread: NM Fat Bikes?

  1. #51
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    Will it negate the warranty on the rims (should a problem occur later)?
    "Someone must have put alcohol in my beer last night." ~ Mr. Richard Baty, Esq.


  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBNate View Post
    I've got a line on a brand new complete Moonlander with a couple mods.

    Can't wait to get it here!

    Excellent! What mods are you getting? My buddy couldn't get used to the microshift thumbies, went SRAM triggers&new rear derailer. I personally would pony up for the 20t granny and/or a 12-36 cassette.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBNate View Post
    Question:
    Are you guys running your tires tubless with Stans/etc?
    All of my rims (currently) are USChoppers 100's - which do not have a retainer lip next to the bead seat. With tubes, I could see deflection/movement at the bead seat when running low pressures (6-8 psi) and didn't think that tubeless would stay put.

    The newer single-wall Surly rims have that retainer lip, so a better chance of success. I have seen many on the fatbike forum that are running tubeless - both ghetto/split tube and just tape, usually with foam fillers in the middle of the rim - supposed to make it easier to get the tire to seat initially (less clearance around the bead when starting).

    I'm still running tubes - with DIY sealant in them - but it's not as good as full tubeless. As soon as the pressure drops below a certain point, the tube moves relative to the tire - and then the hole won't seal. Gotta patch/replace.

    Also, I run motorcycle tubes. More readily available than Surly Toobs. 21x3.25-3.50 works nice - and gets you a schrader valve if you're into that.

    I'm slowly working towards an inflatable beadlock as an option, but since it's all hand built there are still issues to work out. The idea is basically a small high pressure tire inside the large low pressure tire - keeps high pressure force against the beads, but lets you run the big tire at whatever pressure. Also can work as a run-flat system. For motorcycles, this is available as Neutech TuBliss:
    Last edited by wadester; 01-14-2013 at 10:19 AM.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBNate View Post
    Question:
    Are you guys running your tires tubless with Stans/etc?
    Yes, 2WD set it up for me and it's been great down to 4.5PSI no burps yet.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadester View Post
    Excellent! What mods are you getting? My buddy couldn't get used to the microshift thumbies, went SRAM triggers&new rear derailer. I personally would pony up for the 20t granny and/or a 12-36 cassette.
    At first I thought the microshifts were kinda cool but they never did work well for me on the rear. So I put some hand-me-down cheapo shifters on and they work better. When those get broke it'll be SRAM for sure.

    I got the 20-33T rings but eventually tried the original 36 on the front to get 20-36T and it shifts fine! Best of both worlds.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBNate View Post
    Question:
    Are you guys running your tires tubless with Stans/etc?
    Yup! I consider it very necessary out here. I get a puncture on just about every trail ride, but not a flat thanks to Stans.

    Jeff @ 2WD was kind enough to set mine up for me so I rode out of the shop this way, but here's the quick description:

    -foam lay-up in the center of the rim.
    - 24" split tube, laid over the rim/bead interface zone.
    (he used a schrader tube and drilled out the clownshoe. I think this is a worthwhile step since schraders are much easier to add stans thru)
    - inflate the tire, trim off the excess tube, and add sealant. I think I'm running around 4-6 oz at present.

    FYI - I'm running around on 5.5psi for low-speed situations like snow and around 6.5psi for more chunky single track w/o any burping or similar issues.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadester View Post
    Excellent! What mods are you getting? My buddy couldn't get used to the microshift thumbies, went SRAM triggers&new rear derailer. I personally would pony up for the 20t granny and/or a 12-36 cassette.
    The 20T and 12-36 are a nice combo. There are a few situations I'd like to go a little lower though, so I'm going 13-38 pretty soon.

    I think Elblat's 20T / 36T combo would seem to be the best of both worlds.

    As for the microshift thumbies, they are a bit of a PITA. I'm holding out on swapping them, trying to convince myself that it's just a setup problem, but they tend to drift too much on their own and inevitably cause the chain to skip after holding a gear for a while....

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by robselina View Post
    The 20T and 12-36 are a nice combo. There are a few situations I'd like to go a little lower though, so I'm going 13-38 pretty soon.
    Is the XT rear hub beefy enough to handle that low of gearing?

    The guy working my order seemed to be concerned about it when I mentioned those kinda gears ratios.
    "Someone must have put alcohol in my beer last night." ~ Mr. Richard Baty, Esq.


  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBNate View Post
    Is the XT rear hub beefy enough to handle that low of gearing?

    The guy working my order seemed to be concerned about it when I mentioned those kinda gears ratios.
    So far so good. I've snapped the SRAM 971 chain, but no issues with the freehub. (The chain had more to do with the microshifts drifting I think, rather than just torque. )

    The 38T had me a little concerned since it's detached from the main cassette body and could cut into the freehub since the load isn't well distributed. However, Elblat pointed out that the freehub body on the XT hub is steel, not AL, so I feel better about trying it.

    The other way of looking at it is that we've got that fancy offset front fork on the moonie this year, so put your SS cog on the front and you're covered if the freehub explodes.

  10. #60
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    I also have mine set-up toob-less! I used gorilla tape and stans worked like a charm I can run over anything now. Works great!

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by robselina View Post

    The other way of looking at it is that we've got that fancy offset front fork on the moonie this year, so put your SS cog on the front and you're covered if the freehub explodes.
    I'm sticking with a symmetrical fork.
    "Someone must have put alcohol in my beer last night." ~ Mr. Richard Baty, Esq.


  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadester View Post
    Oh yeah. Me and the Fatback in our natural environment:
    Sweet rides!

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBNate View Post
    I'm sticking with a symmetrical fork.
    Gotcha. Didn't click that it had a symetrical fork in the photo. It on it's way yet?
    If so, congrats!

  14. #64
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    I'm on the verge of getting this bike ordered.

    I think I am going to leave the gearing alone for now, until I can spend some time riding it and figure out what would work best for me.

    I am going to ditch the BB7's though... and add some Shimano SLX hydros paired to Ashima 185/160 f/r rotors. Other than that I will leave the bike stock and make mods as I get saddle time in.

    I am in contact with a bike shop that's running a 10% off all in-stock fat bikes sale (Surly Necromancers & Moonlanders and Salsa Beargrease, Mukluk 2's & 3's). If you are interested in contacting them, drop me a PM and I'll send you the owner's contact info.
    "Someone must have put alcohol in my beer last night." ~ Mr. Richard Baty, Esq.


  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBNate View Post
    I'm on the verge of getting this bike ordered.


    You'll dig it.

  16. #66
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    I'll also spring for the Bud/Lou combo with the stock tires as back ups.
    "Someone must have put alcohol in my beer last night." ~ Mr. Richard Baty, Esq.


  17. #67
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    Good idea upgrading the brakes.... but deore is just as good .. the xt is the first ones made of metal

  18. #68
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    Shimano Deore M596 Disc Brake | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com just over a hundred for front and rear just need some rotors

  19. #69
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    I'm getting a really good deal on the SLX - I really want to put Hope M4's since that's what I have on my other bikes, but... $pendy.
    "Someone must have put alcohol in my beer last night." ~ Mr. Richard Baty, Esq.


  20. #70
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    Pretty cool

    Winter Mountain Games to Host Winter Mountain Bike National Championships | Mountain Bike Review

    The second annual Winter Mountain Games is taking place during Feb 8-11 in Vail Colorado. They have a slew of outdoor events going on, including biking, and this is the inaugural year for the X-Country mountain bike race (a.k.a. Fat Bikes), so you can be the first crowned Winter Mountain Bike National Champion.
    "Someone must have put alcohol in my beer last night." ~ Mr. Richard Baty, Esq.


  21. #71
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    yea, definitely neat!

  22. #72
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    Jeff at ABQ's Two Wheel Drive's tubeless setup:

    Tubeless Moonlander | gypsy by trade
    "Someone must have put alcohol in my beer last night." ~ Mr. Richard Baty, Esq.


  23. #73
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    NM Fat Bikes?

    Speaking of Two Wheel Drive; they have fat bikes in stock!


    "Someone must have put alcohol in my beer last night." ~ Mr. Richard Baty, Esq.


  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just4Pix View Post
    What are some of the maintenance issues associated with "FatBikes?"
    I have yet to find anything fat specific. Anything in particular you're curious about?

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just4Pix View Post
    Just wondering how components hold up to persistent moisture...
    Here in NM it seems to be a non-issue, but judging by the experience of people in colder/wetter climates, BB wear is often an issue as is chain wear. KMC Titanium Nitride chains seem popular as do BB upgrades to the usual suspects (hope, chris king, etc). Freehubs only seem to be a problem if they have aluminum bodies, which don't hold up as well to the extra torque they are put under. Forks, brakes, headsets and wheel bearings don't appear to have higher wear than other bikes.

    This is all 2nd hand info though, I haven't had mine long enough to get a good feel for the increased wear and tear (if any).

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