Unbranded Gravity 29 Point 5..
Looking around ebay at frames, I came across that frame with a Reba SL for a good price. How is everyone liking their Point 5? Been waiting far too long for my LBS to do my frame warranty that I just want to get something and ride.
You talking about this one? If so then you can get it cheaper by going to bikeisland direct.
Save their ebay commission and you get free shipping.
I'm in TX. I don't think he charges tax via ebay. Tax would bring it back up to $540 or so. But seems I might not have to do this now. Shop called saying my frame was in.
I recently purchased the 29.4 complete bike, which I'm pretty sure has the same frame.
I feel like its relatively easy to adapt to a fairly wide range of geometries and to still ride well,
and that being said, I find the rear end to be a bit long, which has the consequence that I have to make more of an effort (relative to my old 26er) to keep my weight back so my tire keeps traction on steep climbs.
Overall, the wheelbase is somewhat long, and I notice that I'm less able to control my distribution of weight over the two tires. Its good thing because the front wheel doesn't tend to come off the ground that much, but bad because the rear sometimes has inadequate traction.
I was initially worried that bunny-hopping would be more difficult with the bigger bike (i.e. from 26 to 29 w/ wider wheel base), but I haven't noticed a difference.
The grey paintjob looks great. I'm hoping that I can remove the gravity logos with a solvent that won't mess up the paint beneath, but haven't tried yet. Anybody got any ideas on how to do this?
Gravity Point 5 frame
Since this is my first post I wanted to introduce myself a bit
Background: 36 years old, always skated, snowboarded, rode BMX then MTB since '89.
I really like building bikes, working on bikes and riding bikes. I have been a mostly urban rider since moving to NYC from Paris in 97.
Prefer nice steel but somehow keep buying aluminum bikes because finding what I want in steel is never easy! I really like light bikes - overkill for my skill level and what I use 'em for but hey, it's my own personal fetish.
I had used MTBR as a source for reviews for years and found a lot of heated flame wars about some of the e-commerce bikes that I was never quite sure what to think of. I just built up a killer bike based on the unbranded Gravity frame fork combo that is available online so I wanted to weigh in.
If you are looking for hand crafted precision and quality, or brand recognition, it's not going to be for you.
If you don't care about that and are ok with some flaws but overall good quality/performance you may want to consider one.
So far I love the frame but my guess is that the components make this bike. I've put about 60 miles on it riding streets, staircases urban obstacles and yes, even the bike path.
I had originally wanted to have a custom steel hardtail frame built for me but decided to give the generic aluminum frame a shot while I find the right builder and spend the $ on a really nice build kit. I figured if I hate the frame, I'd have essentially just paid for the fork but I really have no qualms with the frame. In terms of feel, I prefer it to my CAAD 4 and it's quiet - no creaks or "ting, ting!".
That said, here is what you can expect:
It is light, stiff and looks good. The welds are pretty clean, seat tube is smooth and post doesn't slip. No surprise, the geometry is as expected. Replaceable hanger is nice. No creaks. Easy to flick up over and on to stuff... (Light parts!)
You can scratch the paint by looking at it too hard(well almost). Left dropout seemed tight for my hubs, I scraped out the excess paint and the fit was fine... The supporting gusset between the head/down tube is lame. looks like an afterthought and the weld quality/ metal cut look cheap compared to the rest. Most would not notice it but I did.
Maybe I'm being picky?
I'd been riding a Redline d440 with 8 speeds and loved the setup.
Anyone here old enough to remember the BMX companies that made "F1: bikes? They were geared 20" bikes with 6 speed indexed shifting. I had one and always loved rear only gearing....
Somewhere in my non stop comparison shopping for frames and parts I came across a review of the Specialized Stumpjumer EVO 29er, and that became the mark to beat...
Wow. Killer "out of the box" bike.
I considered a lot of bikes & frames too: The Voodoo Borkor and Sukri frames were front runners, as well as the Sette 29er hard tail ( the graphics were really not my thing and the top tube seemed too upright, I prefer more sloped), tried to fine an older SUNN frame with Columbus tubes but no luck... I came really close on the Borkor but I just kept hesitating because of the Alu. plus the question of which fork was bugging me.
I had been riding rigid for some time and wanted to go either crazy light with a carbon fork or try suspension again... I like the Reba RL fork and keep it at a high pressure and locked a lot of the time.
Anyway, for a bunch of overlapping reasons I felt like the F/F combo I chose is really wicked.
I'll post some shots.
Looking good! what size frame is that? Any idea how much it weighs?
The 17.5 inch frame I ordered is on UPS' truck for delivery. I can't wait to get it.
I'll post pics once I get it all built up.
Cool, mine is 17.5 too. I'm 5'11 and the fit is god and still small enough to feel BMX-ish which I prefer. I don't have a scale and was in such a hurry to build that I didn't bother to weigh it but it felt pretty light. Probably not breaking any records with the frame but the bike is like a feather because of the overall build... My guess that it compares favorably with other hydro formed alu. frames. The fork felt heavy by comparison but it's totally worth it when you want it.
Anyone else have a 17.5 frame and know what it weighs?
It would be cool to know without having to take apart the bike!
My 17.5 frame was delivered today. The bare frame with the derailleur hanger and without the headset cups or any of the screws weighed 1896 grams(4.18 pounds) on my kitchen scale.
Not the lightest frame but not too bad. The Reba fork is 1750 grams(3.86 pounds).
hey did you have any issues with the rear drop-out being too wide? On the frame that I got, I noticed that the width of the drop out is too wide so that when I try to mount the wheel the quick release skewer pulls the 2 sides in towards the wheel. Not sure if this will be a big issue or not?
nice looking build!
we have the same box too :)
Yeah, the spacing seemed slightly wider than I expected.
It hasn't been a problem though. I'm going to build another one with the cheaper frame and a more basic part spec as a gift for some old friends. I'll post that here too...
I'm 6' with a 32" inseam and was thinking about getting one of the 17.5 frames. Could you tell me what your inseam measurment is.
Originally Posted by malexbone
My inseam is 33". If you like your frame on the smaller side it should be good.
Just finished! Total weight is 25.75 pounds.
I have no standover whatsoever but the reach feels pretty good. Probably won't get a chance to ride it till early next week.
What kind of brakes? They look serious.
Those are Magura Louise brakes with Jagwire hoses.
They are on the heavier side but I had them sitting around so I threw them on the bike.
Nice. Nothing like having a good parts bin.
It will be cool to know what you think of the frame and your build once you've had some time to ride it.
Can we get an update on how these bikes are holding up? i am looking to build one up as a SS after i sell my full suspension. Hopefully that happens soon and i can get my order in. I am 6'3" and usually like about a 24" TT. Does a 19" sound right?
mine is holding up just fine. I've only put 82 miles on it but so far really like it(only had it for about a month).
My two issues/gripes are
1) the rear drop-out on mine are out of spec and way too wide(supposed to be 135mm but mine measured out to about 140mm) I just squeeze it together with the skewer no issues yet.
2) the paint really sucks. I have a few paint chips on the bottom of the down tube already from rock hits.
As far as sizing goes, I think the best thing to do would be to go and test ride a Trek/Gary Fisher 29er since the measurements are almost exactly the same(except the G2 geometry thing on the Trek/GF frames)
Are the rear dropouts wider than normal to accommodate larger hubs? I think I read that somewhere, but I'm not sure. I'm a newb with mountain bikes.
Originally Posted by pwu_1
I have hte 29.4, have same dropout issue. a little annoying, but I've seen this sort of problem even in fancy bikes from the most reputable companies, so I wasn't surprised at all. Perhaps its intentional, but still a pain in the ass taking the wheel on and off.
Originally Posted by pwu_1
paint is great on mine, only a few chips on the chainstay and I've probably put 300 miles on it. I love the semi-gloss grey. Anybody figure out how to get the white logos off?
Any reports on max tire size for the frame?
What do you mean it's a pain in the ass to take off the wheel?
Originally Posted by PretendGentleman
Also, is the tire still centered even tho the dropouts are wider than the hub?
Is the white logo on top of the paint? Maybe it's just a sticker. If I get my 29.4, I'll try to peel the smaller ones first.
Its a pain in the butt to install/remove the rear wheel cuz if the bike is on a stand, you have to hold the wheel, then somehow un-screw the skewer until you can get the wheel off(as you are un-screwing the skewer the sides are getting wider).
Originally Posted by ccv2011
But yeah so far the wheel seems centered on the frame. I don't have any weird brake rubbing issues or shifting issues. Its just annoying that the drop out is off spec and wider than it should be. And since the 2 sides are being squeezed together I wonder if the longevity of the frame will be affected.
I got the unbranded frame so no idea about the paint
Thanks for the info. Your bike looks really clean. Too bad BD doesn't offer a blank bike option like that.
Originally Posted by pwu_1
I'm really curious about the stress it puts on the frame, but I've read once in while that people will squeeze the frame together like that.
I was a bit worried to so I contacted the seller(bikeisland.com, same as bikesdirect I think). The guy told me to just ride it.
Originally Posted by ccv2011
There is supposedly a 10 year warranty on the frame.
My Gravity Point 4 doesn't have the spacing issue with the rear hub.
Anyone try to remove the logos yet? I'm gonna try a blow dryer/heat gun first, then try chemicals (nail polish remover, etc.) and a pinstripe removal wheel if it comes down to it, but I'd like some guidance. I'll let everyone know what happens.
no luck with acetone :(
Originally Posted by lardo
and I really like the base coat, so I'm hoping to find a way to only remove the logo and not mess up what's beneath.
Does anyone have the geometry sheet for the 19" frame?
Also, how wide of a tire can I fit in the rear?
is it possible that you do have a very low saddle position? i am 5'10 and cant really decide between 17.5 or 19 (or even the fantoms).
Originally Posted by malexbone
my inseam is 32" (without shoes, spd system) but i tend to prefer a higher (or more towards the front) saddle position. i am bit afraid that i will be in troubles with the insert of the seat post in the seat tube.
i am riding my current bit with 27" from middle of the drivetrain to the clamps from the seatpost/saddle. so it seems i would have around 5" to insert the seatpost in the seat tube, doesnt sound so much.
Thanks... I hope the 19 is not too big...
Originally Posted by Crash Test Dumby
We'll see I guess since I ordered it before seeing this geo chart........
I'm finally getting around to my build now. Anybody got any more pictures of how you built yours? Mine is in the shop now getting the bb faced. I am going to build it up Ss with an eno eccentric hub. Anyone else running it SS?
21" frame weighted 4.9 lbs. Welds all look good. Derailer hanger came in bent but they sent me a replacement which arrived 3 days later.
rear tire looks to be good up to about 2.4. of course depends on rim width. 2.35 should be safe
I finally got around to taking pictures of mine a couple days ago. I think I may take it back apart now and go with a SS specific frame. I love the way this thing handles and the geometry fits me perfect. However I am planning on racing the Shenandoah 100 and a couple things I have noticed about this bike as a SS is that the axle makes it harder to change a tube and I loose chain tension after rough terrain. I have raced it on shorter races and it did fine but there is no doubt in my mind that I would have to work on it during the 10-12 hours of the S100.
Just for fun here are a couple pics from my crappy camera.
I've seen some SS bikes with a chain tensioner. Maybe that's what you need to fix your problem?
Looking at those pics makes me want to drop the $100 for a powder coat on my grey Point 4.
it would be worth it to powder coat the frame. The paint that is on there chips off ridiculously easy. My top tube has chips in the paint from where I bumped into the bike while it was on the stand and the handle bar swung around and touched the frame. Like I said before, the geometry feels great and the bike is pretty light but it just doesn't work as a SS.
What gearing are you using in this picture? Do you need a tensioner for it?
Originally Posted by oromis
here's my 29 point 4. I'm quite happy with it. The rear end spacing on the frame is a bit too wide. The chainstays are a bit too long for my taste. I really have to work to get my weight back on climbs. But it does go up as well as any other bike I've ridden if not better, though I haven't ridden other 29ers off road.
@pwu_1 I am running 32:18. I don't need a traditional tensioner because the rear hub is eccentric meaning it can rotate forwards or backwards in the dropout. check them out at White Industries
I ended up getting inpatient waiting on stuff to sell so I could buy my new frame. I bought a new wheel and a tensioner until I can get up the money to buy a frame with sliding dropouts. I hate the way it looks but its better than not riding.
Sorry to resurrect this old thread, but I'm a bit of dilemma.
I ride an On-One Inbred 29'er, and it's set up for XC racing... well, sort of. Last year I raced a 26" XC bike, but I've upgraded my 29'er to make it as race'able as possible. I run it rigid, and I want to upgrade the fork to a Reba or better.
BikeIsland is essentially giving this frame away - you can get the frame and fork set for $499 with free shipping - which is a ridiculous steal. The fork alone goes for that much.
So, pursuing a lighter weight for XC, I may just replace my heavier steel frame with this and build my Inbred into a rigid SS (again).
So, how does the geometry feel for XC use? I have great components, and I think I may be able to sneak in at around 25-26 lbs going from steel to aluminum. Do any of you race this frame?
Thanks in advance.
I don't race, but I ride lots of fast cx with plenty of folks who do race. To me it rides great. Steering is plenty accurate and I like how its longer(top tube) than my old 26er, but that totally depends on what you're used to. Mine is non-stop creaky at the seatpost, YMMV.
Originally Posted by Dion
But I've never been too picky about geometry. I generally have adapted to any conventional geometry without much comment.
In my post above I mention the long chainstays. This was the main thing I noticed. I think the longer front end with the 100mm stem I'm running put more of my weight up front, leading to back wheel slippage on the steepest of climbs. Over the last 1.5 yrs I've more than adapted and I can climb better than ever, because of or despite the geo. I'm currently changing my bar position as I"m going to fat front and changing the axle to crown, so I might end up being slightly less stretched in the near future.
Thanks! That's what I was looking for. I know the Reba has had some great reviews, and an aluminum frame would be a lot stiffer than my Inbred. The Inbred has short chainstays, which makes descending a bit sketchy... hmmmm... decisions decisions.
The Gravity frame has 445mm chainstays. The Inbred 29er has 444mm chainstays. I know I probably wouldn't feel the 1mm difference. The head tube on the Gravity is slacker by 1.2 degrees as well. BTW I ordered the Gravity Point 3 frame set with Tora fork and should be on the door step Thursday!
Originally Posted by Dion
dgw2jr, looks good. does your seatpost creak?
I just can't help myself!
Nice fat front! My seatpost doesn't creak, probably because it's slathered in lube. The geometry is very confidence-inspiring.
Edit: Got the first real ride on this beast today at Farmdale in Peoria, IL. Before we left home I had to replace the cassette, which I had been using for the last 6 months. All the rivets that were holding it together were destroyed and it wouldn't shift properly. I didn't realize how bad it was until I removed the cassette and it fell into pieces! :eek:
So with all the kinks worked out, it rode splendidly! The 100mm Tora fork works very well for this price point. I like to turn the preload all the way down on coil-spring forks for some reason, and turn the rebound towards the rabbit. I find it easier to climb, as well as track-stand, probably because my weight is distributed more evenly on this frame. My previous frame was too small and I was using a 110mm stem and the seat slammed back on the rails with the seatpost at min. insertion level to get it to fit me.
For reference, the frame with headset cups installed (out of the box) and derailler hanger is 4.44 pounds.
Unbranded Gravity 29 Point 3
Over the last few weeks I've been building up my Gravity 29 point 3 ordered from BikesDirect. I finally got it all built and took it out for a 1.5 hour ride yesterday at Saw Wee Kee in Oswego, IL.
Overall I was pretty happy with the ride. Though with wet leaves and slippery rocks abound at SWK... the tires weren't confidence inspiring. Maybe that's the tires... maybe that's the terrain? I should have brought my Gary Fisher Rig as a comparison tool... the Rig seems to hook up on everything I've ridden it on so far.
Like many other posters I wanted a simple 1x9 setup... I never really need more than 9 gears on the terrain in Illinois and Wisconsin. So far I'm happy with that decision.
She weighs in at 29.5 pounds... not bad considering I went for lower cost over lower weight in many of the components.
- White FSA Gravity Gap Riser Handlebar
- Avid BB7 Mechanical Disc Brake Calipers
- Bontrager Race Lite Saddle
- ERGON GP1-L ERGO Grips
- SRAM X.0 9 Speed Rear Twist Shifter
- KMC X9.93 9-Speed 113-Link
- Truvativ Stylo Single Speed Crankset 33T w/ Bash Guard (used Ebay)
- TruVativ Hussefelt Stem 40mm 0deg 31.8 1-1/8
- Jagwire brake shifter cable housing kit
- 160mm Avid HS1 CS Rotors
- SRAM 9.0 Brake levers (used from the 26")
- SRAM x9 rear derailluer (used from the 26")
- Bontrager wheelset (used off Craigslist)
- Truvativ Seatpost (you can't find these in colors anywhere but China so me thinks it's not genuine)
- N-GEAR JUMP STOP
Im trying to sell my barely used 2012 WHITE point 4 for $650. Still, weird enough, no takers.