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Post pics of your moto.

338K views 735 replies 340 participants last post by  BigSquirrel 
#1 ·
here is my 2007. I picked up the frame from ebay, and built up from there.
 

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#152 ·
Starkonian said:
I did a lot of research and determined this single pivot design is a good candidate. It brought the front of the bike a little forward and higher. I picked the U-Turn option so I could dial in the right fork length. I also picked up an Easton seat post with a large set back and adjustable seat angle pivot. I just tweaked everything around til my position was just right. I run the fork at full length and occasionally crank it down for long climbs.

Do you keep your forked extended out all the way with your setup?
Stark
Now that you had the 7.5 for a while do you still enjoy it? I'm going to be upgrading the rear on my 400ds? the 6.5 are a little harder to find.
 
#153 ·
mstguide said:
Stark
Now that you had the 7.5 for a while do you still enjoy it? I'm going to be upgrading the rear on my 400ds? the 6.5 are a little harder to find.
I highly reccomend it for any of the Moto single pivot upgrade projects. I gained 2 1/4" of travel going from the Axis coil to the air shock. I highly reccomend you go with a shock that has motion control/pro-pedal with an adjustable floodgate. I can't stress that enough. The only regret I have is I wish I had located a MC 3R instead of the MC 3.3. The 3R gives you a handlbar Poploc Adjust feature. I have to reach down to switch between full open, threshold and lock out. I don't know what the travel is on your stock fork but if you can afford it I'd look into a Tora 318, or better, to increase your fork travel. It also allows you to fine tune the length and balance.
I don't think it's a deal breaker tho if you only have the cash to replace the rear shock and not the fork at this point and time. In general you'll just need to tweak your overall riding position untill the balance is just right. I picked up an Easton 50 seat post with a large set back and adjustable saddle angle from Sierra Trading post for $20. This is another key component to the transition. It balances everything out and allows me to dial in the correct seat angle which changed slightly with the larger shock.
Let me know how it goes and if something doesn't feel balanced.
 
#157 ·
Starkonian said:
I highly reccomend it for any of the Moto single pivot upgrade projects. I gained 2 1/4" of travel going from the Axis coil to the air shock. I highly reccomend you go with a shock that has motion control/pro-pedal with an adjustable floodgate. I can't stress that enough. The only regret I have is I wish I had located a MC 3R instead of the MC 3.3. The 3R gives you a handlbar Poploc Adjust feature. I have to reach down to switch between full open, threshold and lock out. I don't know what the travel is on your stock fork but if you can afford it I'd look into a Tora 318, or better, to increase your fork travel. It also allows you to fine tune the length and balance.
I don't think it's a deal breaker tho if you only have the cash to replace the rear shock and not the fork at this point and time. In general you'll just need to tweak your overall riding position untill the balance is just right. I picked up an Easton 50 seat post with a large set back and adjustable saddle angle from Sierra Trading post for $20. This is another key component to the transition. It balances everything out and allows me to dial in the correct seat angle which changed slightly with the larger shock.
Let me know how it goes and if something doesn't feel balanced.
Thank, I will be talking to my LBS soon to see what we come up with. :thumbsup:
 
#161 ·
upgrade

Upgrade come slow for me :) .
I got this rock shox, from m lbs. try it out, it worst it. I don't have to worry about lock out as much because mainly I have to pedal all the time in our trails.
When I do go to the mtn's I can manually lock it out. (is not on the fly but it was on my budget). I do like the ride much better next upgrade will be the Front one.
Stark thanks for the advice.
 

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#165 ·
Yeah, my lbs told me I was crazy for upsizing. Then they tried to sell me a new bike. Pretty clear what their motivation was. Glad I didn't listen to them.
I would have liked to see you get something with Motion Control but a budget is what it is and you should see a nice upgrade in performance. Good job! If you have lock out you can always flip it on for long climbs. I actually leave the floodgate fully open 70% of the time, floodgate engaged 20% and fully locked out 10%. I ride in the mountains tho so see a lot of long climbs which tends to bring out some bobbing when I have to mash the pedals.
What's worn regarding the mounting hardware? If you have to replace them I suggest you bring the bike into the lbs and let them measure and order it for you. That's easiest and you'll know it will be right. If you want to do it yourself, measure the bolt shaft diameter;probably 8mm, and measure the distance BETWEEN the mounting posts; both front and back. Those are the measurements for the hardware. Then call Jensen.com or some other bike part warehouse for assistance.
 
#166 ·
Starkonian said:
Yeah, my lbs told me I was crazy for upsizing. Then they tried to sell me a new bike.

How does it run with the floodgate open? I haven't figure out the best setting yet. I think I have it fairly close, I know I have 175 psi in it and that seems to be working good for the bounce, like I said I haven't play enough to find the best setting if open or closed.
I had more pressure but it was too stiff. so I let some off.
The BBG bashguard works pretty good too. I rolls over everything I go over. Even some of the bigger logs.
 
#167 ·
My MC 3.3 is super plush with the gate open. I must have a bigger air can than your Bar because I only run 70lbs air pressure and I get about 95% stroke travel on the biggest hits I do. I weigh 225lbs with gear too. Single pivot frames allow you to run lower air pressures which is nice due to the lower leverage ratio. You might want to let the air out of your shock and compress it fully to see where it bottoms out. Then set the air pressure so you achieve maximum travel without bottoming out. You could also put a tape measure from the seat to the ground to see how much travel you are getting with the new shock, if you want. I was amazed I went from 1 1/4" to 3.5" with the upgrade.

Looks like you have the Bar 2.1? Looks like the red knob controls the rebound damper? I didn't know you can lock it out. That's nice for long climbs.

It looks like you give up the largest chain ring for more clearance re: the bashguard? That looks pretty interesting, I'll have to check that out. I hardly ever use my big ring and there are some areas on my ride where I worry about grounding it.
 
#168 ·
Starkonian said:
My MC 3.3 is super plush with the gate open. I must have a bigger air can than your Bar because I only run 70lbs air pressure and I get about . . .
The bashguard makes a big difference, some of the areas that we go over are pretty high and the outher ring dug into logs, the big problem was when I went to the rock garden at Alafia. The out ring hit a rock and I didn't realized it until it affected the next ring shift. I notice the chain hat pick up a little grindig on my middle ring.
With the bashguard I can go over big logs and rocks with no problem it just rolls over everything. The BBG claims to have a life time warranty so far I haven't had to use it. In the future I'm going to get red tires for it.
 
#169 ·
mstguide said:
The bashguard makes a big difference, some of the areas that we go over are pretty high and the outher ring dug into logs, the big problem was when I went to the rock garden at Alafia. The out ring hit a rock and I didn't realized it until it affected the next ring shift. I notice the chain hat pick up a little grindig on my middle ring.
With the bashguard I can go over big logs and rocks with no problem it just rolls over everything. The BBG claims to have a life time warranty so far I haven't had to use it. In the future I'm going to get red tires for it.
Hey mstguide,

Does that bashguard replace the outer chainring or just mount over it? I'm looking to go 1X8 with my 600DS on the cheap, and I'm trying to figure out if the Truvativ Fived 3-ring crank can be converted to single speed fairly easily if at all. Thanks!
 
#170 ·
damnitzhym
Depending on your set up, most of them replace the big ring, there are some big rings that are also bashguard they are made fairly heavy. I chose the bbg, it work very good with my set up, it replaces the big ring, and you have a color choice. In some set up you may need new screws for the distance away from the chain. BBG has bashguards for 5 also. you should be able to remove the smaller ring if you want to go single, with the bashguard, I would recomend it because it protects the chain to some degree.
 
#174 ·
She is a sweet ride. I am enjoying mine immensely. I just ordered a low rise bar. The flat bar is definitely a racing bar at only 22" wide. I am going to try 27" and if necessary cut off an inch to 26". I have not had any issues with turning or pain with the narrow bar, but per the forums and pro zines they recommend a wider bar.
 
#176 ·
Longer Bar

lostemple said:
She is a sweet ride. I am enjoying mine immensely. I just ordered a low rise bar. The flat bar is definitely a racing bar at only 22" wide. I am going to try 27" and if necessary cut off an inch to 26". I have not had any issues with turning or pain with the narrow bar, but per the forums and pro zines they recommend a wider bar.
mtb magz. just had an article were they concluded the longer bar gives better front end control.
 
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