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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by aFallenTree View Post
    Not sure why everyone has such a bias against Moto. I'll see how badly I get flamed for saying something hah.


    Sent using smoke signals.
    If you post pics or better yet link to a short vid, you should not get flamed.
    Personal attacks are not tolerated on MTBR either.
    People on this thread have some pretty extensive reviews written comparing to Specialized FSR. Based on real customers like yourselves, we know the Motobecane HAL mountain bikes ride awesome!

  2. #402
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    Still not totally understanding your response. Are dropper posts supposed to be adjusted so they don't go past your highest point you would want them at for climbin? I just figured you would limit it by keeping down pressure so it doesn't go too high

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cc in Hawaii View Post
    Still not totally understanding your response. Are dropper posts supposed to be adjusted so they don't go past your highest point you would want them at for climbin? I just figured you would limit it by keeping down pressure so it doesn't go too high
    My understanding is you want to be able to use the full travel of the dropper so you can lower it completely out of the way but also use it for climbing. That is how I have mine setup.


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  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by aFallenTree View Post
    My understanding is you want to be able to use the full travel of the dropper so you can lower it completely out of the way but also use it for climbing. That is how I have mine setup.


    Sent using smoke signals.
    For those using droppers, which post do you recommend? I ordered a DNM post on Amazon, but had to send it back since it would not hold full pressure after one drop. I'm hoping it was just one bad post because I would consider reordering in the future if others are having success with it.

  5. #405
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    Most people are using KS or Rock Shox droppers. DNM is a bottom end company.
    Redline D880
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  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by duncan57 View Post
    For those using droppers, which post do you recommend? I ordered a DNM post on Amazon, but had to send it back since it would not hold full pressure after one drop. I'm hoping it was just one bad post because I would consider reordering in the future if others are having success with it.
    I got a DNM and it works great on my Hal5. Because I'm 210 pounds I had to add some air pressure to it, but I like it a lot!

    edit - I got this one in the 31.6mm size - https://amzn.com/B00BW4T7OS

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by duncan57 View Post
    For those using droppers, which post do you recommend? I ordered a DNM post on Amazon, but had to send it back since it would not hold full pressure after one drop. I'm hoping it was just one bad post because I would consider reordering in the future if others are having success with it.
    Went with a RockShox Reverb. Has worked flawlessly.


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  8. #408
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    Warden Vs Hal 6 pro

    Quote Originally Posted by ndatube67 View Post
    The Warden is in the house. XL frame with reverb dropper and RF chester pedals weighs 30.8lbs I still kinda wish the HAL6 would have worked out but I'm not lookin back now and only looking forward to Piscah.
    NDATube, were still eagerly awaiting the Hal6 pro Vs Knolly Warden Comparison! where u at?!

  9. #409
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    Hal 6 Pro $100 1X10 conversion

    I finally went ahead and ordered the parts for my 1by conversion. $38 for the Race face Narrow wide 32T front chain ring, and $60 for the Sunrace csmX3 11-42 rear casette. only have done the front so far as I am needing to borrow a couple special tools from a friend to do the rear. Looks way better and uncluttered both down by the pedals and up on the handle bars now. Also lost a bit of weight again. New weight is 29.6lbs. Did a ride last night and it seemed to work great, shifted fine, my only question is on the chain angle, when i am in the lowest gear (right now a 36t) the chain goes at quite an angle to get there, is this normal or am i supposed to somehow have my front chain ring further tucked into the bike? do people use some type of spacer between the cranks and the chainring to do this when going to a 1by? New Motobecanes - first impressions?-img_0130.jpgNew Motobecanes - first impressions?-img_0453.jpgNew Motobecanes - first impressions?-img_0459.jpgNew Motobecanes - first impressions?-img_0463.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New Motobecanes - first impressions?-img_0460.jpg  


  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffyrides View Post
    Has anyone had any problems with their bikes? I had a rear hub seize, but that was fixed promptly and there haven't been any other issues.
    Quote Originally Posted by aFallenTree View Post
    If you send a video of the issue to bikes direct they will send you a new wheel and hub.

    I just bought new hope tech wheels and hubs so I wouldn't have to worry about it when riding.


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    Quote Originally Posted by joebikesdirect View Post
    According to Novatec who makes millions of hubs and this one in particular, the rear wheels affected were from a small batch. We've been working closely with them.

    They encourage anyone with issues to contact them or us and we'll get you taken care of

    Good news is, out of the thousands of bikes weve sold with this rear hub; only a tiny tiny tiny fraction have any issues
    I had my rear hub freeze up this evening. Do I contact the warranty department to get it taken care of?

  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cc in Hawaii View Post
    NDATube, were still eagerly awaiting the Hal6 pro Vs Knolly Warden Comparison! where u at?!
    I'm still here and have kept following this thread. I didn't want to sidetrack the thread but, I'll provide a few quick thoughts and comparisons between the Warden and the Hal6. I'll start by saying that I remain convinced that the Hal6 is a lot of bike for the money. Ok, so it may be a "catalog" frame but, for the money, it's hard beat if you are looking for an AM bike in that price range. My son loves his Mantis Green Hal 6. We have had no issues so far with the bike and He has put well over 100 miles it. I've pumped the shock and forks up for my heavier weight and spent a little time on the Hal6 as well. Here are my likes/dislikes between the Hal6 and the Knolly Warden:

    - The suspension on the Warden with the Cane Creek DB Air shock (the DBInline shock that came on the Warden was bad out of the box so I upgraded to the DB Air) is much more plush than the Hal6. That comes at a price however since the Warden does not pedal as efficiently as the Hal6 and had more pedal bob. The climb switch on the cane creek shock does not offer full lockout and it would be nice to have that option.
    - The Warden is longer and slacker then the Hal6 which allows you to "get in the bike" easier and gives more confidence when descending
    - The front end on the Warden wonders a little more than the Hal 6 on the climbs because it is longer and slacker
    - Stealth routing for dropper post on the Warden is preferred
    - Fit and finish on both bikes is excellent. I really like the anodized black finish on the Warden. I didn't think I would like the Mantis Green paint on the Hal6 but it is really cool in person and looks alive with the fine metallic flake in the paint.
    - Weight of both bikes is comparable so no clear winner there

    In summary, I ended up spending $1700 more for the Warden than the Hal6 pro. Was it worth it? I'm certainly happy with the Warden and have it setup and dialed in for me so no regrets there. With that said and considering the price difference, I think I could have been just as satisfied with the Hal6 if BD would have been able to deliver.

  12. #412
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    Thanks for your balanced review Nice to know the Motobecane HAL6 can hold it's own against other full suspension mountain bikes. Especially one that's costing $1,700 More


    Quote Originally Posted by ndatube67 View Post
    I'm still here and have kept following this thread. I didn't want to sidetrack the thread but, I'll provide a few quick thoughts and comparisons between the Warden and the Hal6. I'll start by saying that I remain convinced that the Hal6 is a lot of bike for the money. Ok, so it may be a "catalog" frame but, for the money, it's hard beat if you are looking for an AM bike in that price range. My son loves his Mantis Green Hal 6. We have had no issues so far with the bike and He has put well over 100 miles it. I've pumped the shock and forks up for my heavier weight and spent a little time on the Hal6 as well. Here are my likes/dislikes between the Hal6 and the Knolly Warden:

    - The suspension on the Warden with the Cane Creek DB Air shock (the DBInline shock that came on the Warden was bad out of the box so I upgraded to the DB Air) is much more plush than the Hal6. That comes at a price however since the Warden does not pedal as efficiently as the Hal6 and had more pedal bob. The climb switch on the cane creek shock does not offer full lockout and it would be nice to have that option.
    - The Warden is longer and slacker then the Hal6 which allows you to "get in the bike" easier and gives more confidence when descending
    - The front end on the Warden wonders a little more than the Hal 6 on the climbs because it is longer and slacker
    - Stealth routing for dropper post on the Warden is preferred
    - Fit and finish on both bikes is excellent. I really like the anodized black finish on the Warden. I didn't think I would like the Mantis Green paint on the Hal6 but it is really cool in person and looks alive with the fine metallic flake in the paint.
    - Weight of both bikes is comparable so no clear winner there

    In summary, I ended up spending $1700 more for the Warden than the Hal6 pro. Was it worth it? I'm certainly happy with the Warden and have it setup and dialed in for me so no regrets there. With that said and considering the price difference, I think I could have been just as satisfied with the Hal6 if BD would have been able to deliver.

  13. #413
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    Thanks for that review ndatube, I can't believe that cane creek shock is so much more plush than the $500 rockshox monarch plus provided on the Hal. How much did you pay for that shock?

  14. #414
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    The DBInline came on the bike and it cost me $75 to do a warrenty upgrade to the DBAir CS.

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

  15. #415
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    To be clear - After all was said and done that $1700 was 100% worth it to me to finally get a bike and a bike that I originally wanted when I started shopping. I ordered the Warden on a Friday from California and on Monday it showed up at my door in North Carolina. For comparison, it took me two months of waiting after I had paid in full for the Hal6 and then 5 straight days of calling BD to finally get the story that UPS damaged my bike and my only option to get a HAL6 was to wait two more months.

    Quote Originally Posted by joebikesdirect View Post
    Thanks for your balanced review Nice to know the Motobecane HAL6 can hold it's own against other full suspension mountain bikes. Especially one that's costing $1,700 More


    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cc in Hawaii View Post
    Thanks for that review ndatube, I can't believe that cane creek shock is so much more plush than the $500 rockshox monarch plus provided on the Hal. How much did you pay for that shock?
    It say the suspension design has more to with with plush-ness/pedal bob than the difference between the two shocks.

    Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by aFallenTree View Post
    I love the 1x10 set up as well. I never had the need for more gears or a different range than what I have now. The 42t is perfect, saved my legs on a few really steep climbs.


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    Hey tree, questions about your 1x10 set up. I have now switched over as well but used the praxis 11-40 rear cassette and a raceface 32 tooth narrow wide on the front. one issue is the the front sprocket seems to be too far over so that when I shift into the 40t the chain is really having to bend to get over there, and if I pedal backwards the chain will immediately start shifting down to other gears and then get stuck. I'm wondering if your wolf face chain ring somehow had shims to move it further towards the middle of the range?

  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cc in Hawaii View Post
    Hey tree, questions about your 1x10 set up. I have now switched over as well but used the praxis 11-40 rear cassette and a raceface 32 tooth narrow wide on the front. one issue is the the front sprocket seems to be too far over so that when I shift into the 40t the chain is really having to bend to get over there, and if I pedal backwards the chain will immediately start shifting down to other gears and then get stuck. I'm wondering if your wolf face chain ring somehow had shims to move it further towards the middle of the range?
    I noticed the same thing. When I would back peddle it would jump down from the 42t but then would stay put. So I moved the spacer that is normally on the drive side over to the other side. Which brought the chainring over just enough so it wouldn't downshift.

    I called race face and they told me this would be the best option. Hope it helps!


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  19. #419
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    You can also buy chaining spacers to move the chaining inward.
    Redline D880
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  20. #420
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    Just a heads up...my rear hub also locked up. Luckily, I was on a short ride and noticed a very faint grinding noise coming from the rear wheel. Decided to pedal home and the hub completely locked up within a mile.

    I spoke with Bikes Direct and they wanted me to send in my rear wheel for inspection before sending a replacement. Kind of a pain considering I just converted to tubeless. Would much rather get a new wheel, switch everything over and send back the faulty wheel but whatever...

    I knew from the start, I'd eventually upgrade the wheels. Just didn't want it to be this soon. Decided to clean out the piggy bank and purchase a set of Industry Nine Enduros. I'm just an hour outside of their shop so it made sense if I ever have any issues.


  21. #421
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    Good call on the I9 enduros. I've been eyeing a set of those as well.

    Did you get the 305s?

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
    Last edited by ndatube67; 08-16-2016 at 03:37 PM.

  22. #422
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ponda View Post
    Just a heads up...my rear hub also locked up. Luckily, I was on a short ride and noticed a very faint grinding noise coming from the rear wheel. Decided to pedal home and the hub completely locked up within a mile.

    I spoke with Bikes Direct and they wanted me to send in my rear wheel for inspection before sending a replacement. Kind of a pain considering I just converted to tubeless. Would much rather get a new wheel, switch everything over and send back the faulty wheel but whatever...

    I knew from the start, I'd eventually upgrade the wheels. Just didn't want it to be this soon. Decided to clean out the piggy bank and purchase a set of Industry Nine Enduros. I'm just an hour outside of their shop so it made sense if I ever have any issues.

    IS that a STEALTH dropper post I see on your bike? Nice pic btw looks sweet.

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by ndatube67 View Post
    Good call on the I9 enduros. I've been eyeing a set of those as well.

    Did you get the 305s?

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
    Nope. Just the regular enduros.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cc in Hawaii View Post
    IS that a STEALTH dropper post I see on your bike? Nice pic btw looks sweet.
    It's a KS lever post.

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by aFallenTree View Post
    I noticed the same thing. When I would back peddle it would jump down from the 42t but then would stay put. So I moved the spacer that is normally on the drive side over to the other side. Which brought the chainring over just enough so it wouldn't downshift.

    I called race face and they told me this would be the best option. Hope it helps!


    Sent using smoke signals.
    Thanks it did!

  25. #425
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    Anyone installed tokens in their Pike fork yet? I've been having some trouble getting the Pike dialed in. I'm 180lbs and found if I run the recommended psi, the fork felt too stiff. If I lowered the psi, it felt great but was a little harsh on rougher terrain. Installed 3 tokens last night but haven't had the chance to get on the trails yet to test it.

  26. #426
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    Do the HAL6 frames have ISCG-05 mounts?

  27. #427
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    Hal 6 pro downhill vid

    This is what happens when you're NOT on a Hal 6! haha

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mo7GWv_dAjk

  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cc in Hawaii View Post
    This is what happens when you're NOT on a Hal 6! haha

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mo7GWv_dAjk
    I had an off week before last. I guess I should have waited for the Hal 6 .

    That trail looks awesome!

  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by ndatube67 View Post
    I had an off week before last. I guess I should have waited for the Hal 6 .

    That trail looks awesome!
    Nice Video CC
    FYI - Your Videos can win you a free cruiser bike - Learn How
    Click HERE or copy/paste this Link:
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  30. #430
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    Hey, what's up everyone? This is my first post on this site... I've been planning to buy an entry level full suspension mtb for some time now. I've gone to every LBS and researched nearly every brand online for the past few weeks. Seeing all the discussion in this thread and the part spec for the money, I finally pulled the trigger on a HAL6. I would have been happy with a lower end spec model, but they will not be available until December so I opted to spend more and get the Team. I should receive it this week, can't wait!

  31. #431
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    Well my first bikes direct.com experience is off to a terrible start. I ordered a matte gray HAL6 Team11 in 41 cm, but they sent me a red Team 12 in 44cm. The Team12 is a better bike, so it didn't seem so bad at first, but the stand over height of the 44cm frame is 30"+, that's taller than any other manufacturer's medium frame and will never work for me.

    Now I have to send this bike back to them and wait for them to receive it before they will attempt to send me the correct bike. So instead of sitting on a bike, I will be sitting on the couch for the foreseeable future. SMH

  32. #432
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    Wow! lucky! Just buy a new frame and keep that thing. $2199 is a crazy deal for the components alone considering the eagle Carbon crank set is $500 to buy separately! Small size frames can be had for cheap!

  33. #433
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    Ordered a new HAL6 Team with the Eagle 1X12 last Monday. It arrived on Friday and I put the box in the back of the car and drove to Kingdom Trails in Vermont. Assembled it up there and did nearly 70 miles over the weekend. Here are my thoughts.

    I'm coming from primarily a single speed hard tail 29er, but I also have recently spend time on a Santa Cruz Tallboy LT and a Specialized Stuntjumper 29er. I thought I wouldn't like the smaller 27.5 wheels but I didn't notice any difference. Most of the stuff in Vermont was smoother and more flow than the chunky, rooty, rocky stuff I ride in Southern New Hampshire, so the smaller wheels might not matter as much up there. I'll know tonight whether it bothers me here.

    Bottom bracket clearance is good. With the smaller wheels I was expecting more pedal strikes or scrapes on rollers, but didn't have any worse clearance than my 29ers (thank goodness - that Eagle crankset and chain ring are $ to replace). I don't like that the rear brake hose and rear derailleur cable are routed under the bottom bracket. I hope that doesn't expose them to trail damage.

    I'm used to steep head tube, so I was worried I wouldn't like the handling, but the HAL6 does well. Low speed handling was great. The bike was very maneuverable, and (as expected with the slack head tube) the bike feels like it's on rails with the high speed stuff.

    The suspension is super plush. I rode the first day with the air set to the recommended psi on the fork sticker in the front and around my body weight (lbs) in the rear. Rebound and compression on both ends in the middle and no bottomless tokens in the fork. Ended up increasing the rebound damping a bit in the rear because I was getting bucked it bit. After the first day I put both bottomless tokens in the front fork and backed off front air pressure 5 psi or so. felt pretty dialed. On rough chunky downhill I went full soft on the rear shock and backed off compression dampening on the fork to just two clicks. That 6 inches of plush travel awesome.

    The bike climbs much better than I expected. Coming from a hard tail I was pleasantly surprised. Rear end is very compliance with very little noticeable pedal bob when seated. When standing and mashing you get a bit of bob, but totally manageable. The upright seat tube and short chainstays definitely help with climbing.

    Others have complained about the front end wandering while climbing. That definitely happens, but it's manageable. If you're having this problem, slide forward on your saddle (the nose of the saddle should be getting very intimate with you) and drop your elbows (which essentially brings your torso and shoulders down and forward). This helps put weight over the front wheel and keeps it in check. If you're doing a lot of climbing (I did somewhere around 7,000 feet this weekend), it may help to set your saddle up a little nose-down from level.

    Being a single speed rider, I have the leg strength to not need the 50 tooth rear, but it sure was nice to have climbing fire roads at the end of the day when you're gassed. I could have easily cleared those hills running 30X42 or even 30X36, but why not save my legs for the fun stuff? Incidentally, steep smooth fire roads were the only place I used the 50T. It's not that useful on actual techy single track climbs because when you're spinning along in it, you're going so slow the bike doesn't have any momentum to carry you over obstacles. And it's hard to put a burst of speed on to clear stuff because you spin out so quick.

    What else can be said? Brakes are good. Cockpit is adequate. The grips are slipping on me, so I'm going to upgrade those to a locking-type grip. A dropper seat post is definitely required on this bike, especially if you climb to earn your turns. The wheels are heavy, but roll true. Tires are good. I tried to set them up tubeless on Friday but only had a floor pump and couldn't get the bead on with that, so I rode with tubes the whole weekend (and therefore tire pressure fairly high). Didn't have any problems with traction in the dry, dusty trails in Vermont. I set the tires up tubeless last night with my compressor. Had to re-tape the rims to get the spokes to seal. Other than a surprising amount of air leaking through the sidewalls of the tires (which sealant took care of), they mounted up no problem.

    On the topic of seat height, I mentioned the upright seat tube angle being helpful, and it does help with climbing, road rides, etc. What I don't like about the seat tube is the bend that makes it so the seat post slides in at an angle. This means that as you raise your saddle, it also moves you back pretty significantly, and as the saddle is lowered it moves it forward. This means you essentially have to set up your preferred knee angle/pedal position with your seat at one height (I aimed for fully extended for road rides, fire roads, non-techy stuff)) and compromise on the ergonomics when you move to other heights (say 1 or 2 inches lower for seated techy trail pedaling).

    A couple of other annoying items: Even though the box is in tact, there was a very large scrape on my fork lower when I unboxed the bike. I'll be contacting bikesdirect about that. Also, some of the bolts in the rear suspension linkage were finger-tight. I snugged them but was still getting the occasional clunk. I'll have to ask bikesdirect the torque specs.

    I think that's all I've got to say. I'm 6'4" and ordered a size XL. Weight with tubes in the tires, no reflectors, and Shimano XT Trail pedals is 30.2 lbs. Not bad for an XL bike. I didn't weigh it after I set it up tubeless, but if I knew I was going to be this close to under 30 lbs. I would have picked some lighter pedals.
    Last edited by zeeede; 08-29-2016 at 08:48 AM.

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeeede View Post
    Also, some of the bolts in the rear suspension linkage were finger-tight. I snugged them but was still getting the occasional clunk. I'll have to ask bikesdirect the torque specs.
    Great review! joebikesdirect can you comment on the torque specs for the rear linkage? I'm expecting delivery of my HAL6 tomorrow, getting pretty excited after reading everyone's reviews so far.

  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by duncan57 View Post
    Great review! joebikesdirect can you comment on the torque specs for the rear linkage? I'm expecting delivery of my HAL6 tomorrow, getting pretty excited after reading everyone's reviews so far.
    I got this email from Larry at Bikes Direct customer service. Seems like it's a cut-and-paste job (it mentions the Fantom bikes). I'd love for joebikesdirect to chime in and confirm that these are the same specs for the HAL frame.


    "Motobecane Fantom Full Suspension Bicycles
    Lower Pivot Bolt (Near Bottom Bracket)
    Apply Loctite 242 to the bolt, and tighten to 115 in/lbs.
    All other Bolts
    Apply Loctite 242 to all other bolts and torque to 90-95 in/lbs
    Check for smooth operation of the pivots and shock bushings. Ensure
    that the shock reducers are not rotating on the shock axle - the shock
    should be rotating on the reducers.
    Pivot Axles
    Make sure all the bolts are torqued to spec. using two allen wrenches
    (one on each side if two sides are present).
    Once the bolts are properly torqued, check the bearings for smooth
    operation and side-side play"

  36. #436
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeeede View Post

    Being a single speed rider, I have the leg strength to not need the 50 tooth rear, but it sure was nice to have climbing fire roads at the end of the day when you're gassed. I could have easily cleared those hills running 30X42 or even 30X36, but why not save my legs for the fun stuff? Incidentally, steep smooth fire roads were the only place I used the 50T. It's not that useful on actual techy single track climbs because when you're spinning along in it, you're going so slow the bike doesn't have any momentum.

    Nice review, very thorough, thanks!. Those sure were my thoughts on that 50 tooth rear cassette, I'd love those carbon cranks though!After making my Hal 6 pro into a 1x10 and adding a 40t on the back and a 32 tooth on the front I reallzed I never use the 40t, even on super steep technical stuff. If I had the 12 speed in back I'd prob go up to a 36t in front to get more in the high gears rather than having an un-usable low gear. Is there anyone out there that wants to trade a 1x11 or 1x12 drivetrain for a 2x10 drivetrain with barely any use?
    Last edited by Cc in Hawaii; 08-29-2016 at 09:22 PM.

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    Having fun on the Hal

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cc in Hawaii View Post
    Nice review, very thorough, thanks!. Those sure were my thoughts on that 50 tooth rear cassette, I'd love those carbon cranks though!After making my Hal 6 pro into a 1x10 and adding a 40t on the back and a 32 tooth on the front I reallzed I never use the 40t, even on super steep technical stuff. If I had the 12 speed in back I'd prob go up to a 36t in front to get more in the high gears rather than having an un-usable low gear. Is there anyone out there that wants to trade a 1x11 or 1x12 drivetrain for a 2x10 drivetrain with barely any use?
    Yeah, you know I had thought of going up to a bigger tooth up front, but my smallest in the rear is 10. I don't do much road work (if I do I'll pick one of the skinny tire bikes hanging in my garage), so 32X10 is plenty fast for any riding I foresee myself doing (most riding in New England is tight and twisty). I'll save the $100 on the chain ring and just have the super easy granny gear.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zeeede View Post
    . Weight with tubes in the tires, no reflectors, and Shimano XT Trail pedals is 30.2 lbs. Not bad for an XL bike. I didn't weigh it after I set it up tubeless, but if I knew I was going to be this close to under 30 lbs. I would have picked some lighter pedals.

    Set up tubeless it came in under 30 lbs. with pedals. I added a Reverb B1 dropper (31.6 X 390 mm, with 125 mm drop) and it weighs in at right about 31 lbs.

    These weights are while holding it on a bathroom scale. I'll have to get a luggage scale for a more accurate weight.

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    Torque Specs are the same

    Quote Originally Posted by zeeede View Post
    I got this email from Larry at Bikes Direct customer service. Seems like it's a cut-and-paste job (it mentions the Fantom bikes). I'd love for joebikesdirect to chime in and confirm that these are the same specs for the HAL frame.


    "Motobecane Fantom Full Suspension Bicycles
    Lower Pivot Bolt (Near Bottom Bracket)
    Apply Loctite 242 to the bolt, and tighten to 115 in/lbs.
    All other Bolts
    Apply Loctite 242 to all other bolts and torque to 90-95 in/lbs
    Check for smooth operation of the pivots and shock bushings. Ensure
    that the shock reducers are not rotating on the shock axle - the shock
    should be rotating on the reducers.
    Pivot Axles
    Make sure all the bolts are torqued to spec. using two allen wrenches
    (one on each side if two sides are present).
    Once the bolts are properly torqued, check the bearings for smooth
    operation and side-side play"

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    This is my first post on this site. I have been in the market for a new mountain bike for a few months now. I'm a 48 year old male and have been riding the same bike on the trails in Southeastern Michigan for the last 24 years, It's a Gary Fisher X-Caliber Rx with a Rock Shox Judy and full XT hardware. It has served me well, but I decided It's time to start searching for a new bike. So off to the LBS I went. I demoed a Trek Superfly hardtail and a 2016 Trek Remedy 8 Full Suspension. I never thought full suspension was needed on the trails in my area, however a friend talked me into giving it a try. After riding 10 miles of trails on the Remedy, I was sold on getting a Full Suspension. I loved the feel of the full suspension and I didnít feel as beat up after my ride. The problem was that the Trek Remedy was $3500. They were however selling the demo for $2800 dollars. I was tempted, however I was trying to keep budget below $2000. Since I've purchased bikes for my kids at Bikes Direct in the past, a Motobecane 400HT and a Windsor Cliff 4900. Both of these bikes have been holding up well, so I stumbled on to the Hal 6 bikes on bikes direct. After weeks of research, I finally pulled the trigger on a Hal6 Team11 in Matte Black size Medium (44cm). I went with the Team because I absolutely love the 1x11 drivetrain. Simple. I am 5'9" with a 32" inseam and the size seems good. I got it put together without too much issue, however as another post stated I do not like the routing of cables to the rear derailleur and brake along the bottom bracket. The cable was rubbing on the rear tire. I had to put a ty-wrap to hold it out of the way. I will be hitting the trails this weekend and will post my complete review of the bike soon. Keep in mind that, I am not as technically savvy with bikes as some other people on this forum, and am just learning about items like setting shock sag, and rebound and compression adjustments of suspension components. Lots of googling and You Tube Videos and I am slowly getting up to speed on new bike technology. I just received my first Air Shock Pump and a Shimano Brake Bleed kit. All I done so far is just ride a few miles around my house and so far I've noticed some intermittent creaks that are coming from the drivetrain or rear suspension. Also, based on others comments about the rear hub seizing, I checked it out and it was definitely tightened way too tight and was binding. I backed it off a bit and it spins freely now. Bikes Direct needs to resolve this issue.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DBASS2 View Post
    Keep in mind that, I am not as technically savvy with bikes as some other people on this forum, and am just learning about items like setting shock sag, and rebound and compression adjustments of suspension components. Lots of googling and You Tube Videos and I am slowly getting up to speed on new bike technology. I just received my first Air Shock Pump and a Shimano Brake Bleed kit.
    As far as air pressure, there's a little sticker on the side of your fork with a chart giving you PSI for different body weights. For the rear, I started with pressure in PSI equal to my body weight. Use the "rubber bands" on the fork and shock and tweak the pressure so you get somewhere between 25% and 30% sag. I think I ended up bleeding some pressure off the rear shock to get there.

    Set the rebound in the middle and work back and forth from there (I found I was getting bucked in the rear a bit with rebound at the middle, so I increased rebound dampening a little from the middle section).

    One test for rebound dampening is the "curb drop" test. In a neutral attack position, ride off a curb, trying to land the bike flat. Don't absorb. If you get an up-and-down "bounce" out of the suspension on landing, increase your rebound dampening until it goes away. If you don't get the bounce, back off rebound dampening until you do, then increase it until it goes away. That will get you in the ball park.

    For compression dampening on the fork (blue dial on the top of the fork crown), I run one or two clicks when I need "full squish" mode, 6 or 7 for firm fast trails, and all the way to + (I think there's 14 or 15 total clicks) on pavement. The rear shock has 3 positions for compression dampening. Minimum is "full squish" wide open, mid is for firm fast trails or climbing, and max is for pavement/bike paths/other places you don't need much squish.

    Hope that helps get you going!

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    Quote Originally Posted by joebikesdirect View Post
    Torque Specs are the same
    Thanks Joe!

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    Any more reviews on this bike? Are there any deals for bikes under $3k that are worth considering over this one? I absolutely must have a pike fork and a 1x11 or 1x12. How does this frame compare to competitors?

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    does anybody know if all the pivots on the rear suspension are bearings or bushings?

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    Quote Originally Posted by DBASS2 View Post
    Also, based on others comments about the rear hub seizing, I checked it out and it was definitely tightened way too tight and was binding. I backed it off a bit and it spins freely now. Bikes Direct needs to resolve this issue.
    Same experience here BUT mine ended up completely freezing on a ride a few days later.

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    For those who have done the tubeless conversion on their WTB rims/tires, do you have any advice on how to break the bead between rim and tire?

    I was able to remove the front tire with some effort, but after I taped the rim and inflated the tire to test the seal I am no longer able to break the bead to add sealant. The rear tire isn't cooperating no matter what I've tried.

    Any advice is greatly appreciated!

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    hi - no need to break the bead to add sealant if you have the right size sealant hose or injector to fit on the presta valve. Simply take out the valve core and inject sealant through there.

    Otherwise, you may have luck using the method fatbike riders use to break the bead - two very strong tire levers. Or 2x4s and a vise.

    I converted our testbed wheels and it was not hard to break the bead but I used a bit of dish soap on the beads. You might try that plus a tire lever to help pull the bead off the rim.

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    Second what Joe says - just put it in through the valve stems.

    Alternatively, when breaking by hand, when you grab the tire at the bead it's tempting to try pushing with your thumbs to break the bead. It's counter-intuitive, but you want to pull back with your fingers on bead.

    But yeah, don't bother breaking the bead. Just pull the valve core.

    Also, Joe mentioned the fat bikes method, but WTB says not to use anything other than your hands to mount the tires, so if you do use levers, make sure they're plastic and be careful not to damage the tire bead.

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    always use plastic tire levers

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    Quote Originally Posted by figurePOOR View Post
    Any more reviews on this bike? Are there any deals for bikes under $3k that are worth considering over this one? I absolutely must have a pike fork and a 1x11 or 1x12. How does this frame compare to competitors?
    Not sure you'll find anything with a 1x12 and a pike for under $3k, so if those are your requirements jump on this bike.

    I've got probably around 200 miles on my HAL6 now, and I'll give a little more of an update.

    I mentioned the front end wandering on climbs previously. If you're a climb-up-so-you-can-bomb-down kind of rider, it shouldn't be a problem... like I said before, stay forward on the saddle and drop your elbows. Standing and cranking also helps. If you enjoy the climb as much as the descent, or want to win all the KOM medals on Strava, you may want to look for something with less slack in the head tube. Techy, steep, bumpy climbs at a very slow speed are the worse. A little bit of momentum and the bike definitely straightens itself out.

    This bike works very well on straight tech, high speed trails, and trails with a lot of flow. Some of our southern New Hampshire trails are very tight and twisty, with a lot of trail crammed into a small area, and your average speed on a ride could be 4 or 5 mph. This bike isn't the best in those situations (that's when I miss the 72 degree head tube angle of my hardtail).

    Stepping ups ledges, log crossings, and other techy things that require a big vertical upward movement of the rear wheel are a little tougher on this bike too... again I think it has to do with the slacker head tube. Every once in a while I come across a small climb or a tech section I would clear no problem on my other bike and not make it on this one... it's very frustrating until I remind myself the other 99% of the trail that I just rode far faster, cleaner, and easier than on the other bike. And as I get used to this bike and get muscle-memory going, I'm sure I'll be caught up to where I was previously.


    Upgrades I've made to the bike include converting to tubeless, some lock-on grips (the stock ones were slipping everywhere) and a dropper post. I'm running Shimano XT trail pedals.

    I have been having a problem with the WTB tires set up tubeless... the leak like sieves through the sidewalls. I lose 5 - 7 psi per hour. I reached out to WTB and they said that's a problem sometime when the mold gets contaminated, so they're warrantying the tires and sending me a replacement set. If anyone as a similar problem get in touch with them.

    Still fiddling with the suspension, but I think I've got it pretty dialed. I'm not a big-air guy, but the biggest drop to date has been around 3 feet to a flat landing...handles it fine without feeling like it's bottoming and without pogoing me off the bike.

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    Thanks for the good detail. interesting stuff. I have done about 30 rides on my hal6 pro, but I'm a beginner and can't compare to another bike. I do feel like it handles very well on the downhill and at high speeds. I'm able to stay with my friends who are experienced riders on some really sketchy technical downhill at high speeds, and I'm sure its largely due to this bike's suspension being so nice. (Jacob's ladder downhill in Utah). I've adjusted my rebound speed on my fork and shock to only a few clicks up from the turtle. Any higher, and I felt like i was pogoing on any rollers. Probably my beginner technique, but the dialed down, slow rebound speed is great now. It really just sucks up the bumps.

    I also added a dropper post, which is great. The stock seat has been fine for me, but I usually never exceed 2 hours in it. Like Zeeede said, the grips do slip. I have to readjust mine after almost every ride. I'll probably get some new ones at the end of the season when I bring my bike in to the LBS to get tuned up and cleaned for the winter.

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    Hey everyone. First post here. Reading this thread helped aid my decision in buying my Motobecane Team 11, so I'd thought I'd share some pics.

    So far, I've had the bike for a little over 2 months now -- no complaints thus far. Made some modifications. Threw out the garbage pedals. Slapped on Shimano Saints on there. The stock 80mm stem and 710mm handlebar combination were fine. But, I wanted to put something on there that was a little more "me". So I swapped it out for Raceface Atlas bar and stem. 785mm/50mm. And of course it's not an all mountain bike without a dropper seatpost!

    With the 1x11 drivetrain. You hardly ever use the big gears. Only time I've used the last two gears was on the street, and I was really trying to push it trying to sprint. So I most definitely will swap out for a different chain ring when I feel like spending the money.


    New Motobecanes - first impressions?-newbike.jpg
    New Motobecanes - first impressions?-newbike2.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrglenni View Post
    Yeah, those rim beads locked real tight. Finally figured out a good method though, just stand over the tire and push with your palms down and away from you, rotating a few inches each time. The tire won't pop out right away but it will start to stretch more and more and then come out. On the first tire I just kept trying the same spot over and over and it wouldn't come out. The second tire went smooth though.
    Some lube really helps break the tire bead free. Windex was recommended, I didn't have any so I just mixed a little Dawn dish soap with water and put it in a spray bottle. They come off way easier.
    '16 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet
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    Hey everyone. Thanks to everyone for your insight on these bikes. I am waiting for shipment of the latest batch of Hal6 Pro's partially due to the feedback on this thread. In anticipation of delivery, I have purchased a new carbon seatpost (before I realized a dropper may have been a better upgrade), carbon handlebars (780mm wide), 50mm stem, lock on grips, flat and egg beater pedals, and tubeless stuff.

    Pretty stoked on putting it all together and seeing how it rides.

    Has anyone modified the fork travel on these bikes down to 130 or 140mm? It looks like a relatively easy process and depending on the terrain and application, a potentially worthwhile modification... Slightly steeper head tube angle, longer reach.

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    Has anyone weighed their hal 5? I'm guessing it'll be similar to the 6, but it'd be nice to know. It'd especially be nice to know for the 1x11 drivetrain. Thanks in advance!

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    Additionally, has anyone measured how much travel the seatpost can have? I know some of you have cut off some extra based on your inseam, but I'm guessing you left enough on to extend slightly below the lowest weld on the top tube to maintain structural integrity. From the pictures, it looks to me like there would be very little travel room after that. This leads me to think that a DIY redneck dropper post (QR) won't really work and a real dropper post is almost essential for this bike.

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    Hi all...awesome thread! I'm considering the Hal6 Team 12 (with Eagle components). Are there any generic components on these Hal6's that you guys feel "must" be swapped out? I know dropper posts are recommended, but what about items like the bottom bracket? The site says, EXTERNAL Bearing Assembly, about the bottom bracket. What does that mean? We all know the components are fantastic, but what about the frame? I've seen everything from "they are junk" to "frame is wonderful". Thoughts?

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    Hey Tom, I Purchased the HAL6 Team 12 Eagle a couple days ago. The wait is already killing me and I have over a month to go. Hahaha I understand your concerns on the frame. There is only one way to find out though
    I am sure it will be more bike then most people need, and if it not you really didn't loose any money.

  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomfoolery_79 View Post
    We all know the components are fantastic, but what about the frame? I've seen everything from "they are junk" to "frame is wonderful". Thoughts?
    I don't own a HAL, but I have two Moto HT's, one Titanium, one Aluminum. I beat the h*ll out them both - jumps, drops and wrecks. I'm sure there are lemons (it happens to the name brands too), but in my experience they are awesome. Those calling them junk may have had a lemon, or maybe the really low end bikes are less durable, or maybe they don't have one at all and are just jealous they overpaid.

    The downer is the wait between clicking "buy" and the box showing up at your house. The week I had to wait for my fatty seemed just as painful as the month I had to wait for my 29er. Best of luck and lets see some pics of these bad-boys assembled!
    '16 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet
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    Love those riser bars man, looks good!

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    Did you get an estimate ship date when you got a confirmation? The website says starting April 15th. That's 2 full months!

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    I got a confirmation of the purchase. They said when they get the shipment in that I will get an email. I know, two months is a long time but I have gone with out a mountain bike for a few years now. So no big deal.

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    Where did you get the RockShox green decals for the monarch?

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    can anyone comment on the sizing? I'm 6'2" with a 32" inseam, but I'm more worried about reach (top tube) than anything. how do the sizes compare with other bikes you've owned? I know all bikes are different, just trying to gauge a feel.

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    hal 6 sizing

    As mentioned elsewhere. these bikes run big/tall. Id def go with the 46cm. the 50 will be huge! IM 5'10" and went with the 44.


    Quote Originally Posted by tomfoolery_79 View Post
    can anyone comment on the sizing? I'm 6'2" with a 32" inseam, but I'm more worried about reach (top tube) than anything. how do the sizes compare with other bikes you've owned? I know all bikes are different, just trying to gauge a feel.

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    Yes, I went to the bike shop and compared top tubes for reference and the Large (46 cm) is definitely me. Where did you get the shock decals to match your bike?

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    Quote Originally Posted by tomfoolery_79 View Post
    Hi all...awesome thread! I'm considering the Hal6 Team 12 (with Eagle components). Are there any generic components on these Hal6's that you guys feel "must" be swapped out? I know dropper posts are recommended, but what about items like the bottom bracket? The site says, EXTERNAL Bearing Assembly, about the bottom bracket. What does that mean?
    Threaded bottom brackets like that on the Hal6 are an absolute necessity for me and are a major selling point for this bike. Death to press fit.

    We all know the components are fantastic, but what about the frame? I've seen everything from "they are junk" to "frame is wonderful". Thoughts?
    I have four BD bikes. Their Ti frames are genuinely nice, I'd put them up against any mid tier Ti welder (e.g. Lynskey) selling frames for twice the price. Their aluminum frames are all catalog designs made by Kinesis, including the Hal6. I don't own a Hal6, but I'll guess what they're like. Kinesis is probably the largest welder of aluminum frames in the world. BD's frames are typically two or three year old designs. BD frames typically lack some of the features of the latest designs (e.g. stealth dropper routing) but they're well made, straight and durable. The Hal6 uses a four bar rocker arm knucklebox rear suspension design which I believe originally was designed by Diamondback. The knucklebox is a highly regarded design for its high compliance with the tradeoff being a reputation for a bit more suspension bob on climbing as well as the relative complexity of the design when compared to a single pivot design.

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    Bottom Bracket dimensions on the HAL6 Pro

    Hi everyone. This is my first post here and after lots of research and reading all the excellent info on this thread I'm now just about ready to put the order in for a HAL6 Pro. The aluminium frame looks to be mid-grade or better but the componentry from the suspension to shifters to brakes are all top-notch and that's a bargain that I can't pass up.

    On the HAL6 Pro's... Does anyone know the length and diameter of the bottom bracket???
    Is it 68mm long with 33.8mm dia or what???
    And does the inside diameter have the standard JIS or BSA threads?

    Thanks,
    -Sacman

  70. #470
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    Here's my first impression, and my 500 miles later impression!
    https://youtu.be/2EncwbaZsdU
    https://youtu.be/YS5_e2V7_Fw
    If you like the videos, please feel free to subscribe! Have a great day y'all!

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    Not the HAL6, but good review anyway. On a side note, I was able to pick up a used Yeti that was too good a deal to pass up, so I won't be getting the HAL6 after all. It's bittersweet because I was looking forward to doing an indepth review of the HAL6. Good luck all! See you on the trails.

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    Considering the Hal 6 Team 11 or 12 and having some trouble deciding if I think the Eagle 12 is worth the added price, or if that money would be better spent on pedals/dropper/etc.

    Coming from an old 26" HT with 3x gearing, so I'm wondering if I'll be shooting myself in the foot with the jump to 1x11 for some of the trails I ride that do include a bunch of ups and down. I like the colors of the Hal 6 Team 11 better, but the added range of the Eagle is appealing.

    - BD

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    Having the same debate.

    Tradeoff:
    Eagle and 1x12 is really good. Also, the technology will likely trickle down soon and become a standard.

    vs.

    If you damage anything, you're looking at an expensive repair bill. $400 crankset. The cassette is $360 (yikes!). The chain is $60. Also, the 1x11 group is no slouch, the crank is probably a bit tougher and the build is $300 cheaper.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BAJ View Post
    Those calling them junk may have had a lemon, or maybe the really low end bikes are less durable, or maybe they don't have one at all and are just jealous they overpaid.
    I agree. I have over 25K miles on 4 different BD bikes and I've never had a problem and never been anything less than very pleased with the frames. The build kits speak for themselves, obviously.

    The vast majority of people who slam BD here have likely never even seen a BD bike or they spent double or triple on their LBS bike and feel the need to bash. It does get really annoying but it's best to safely ignore them.

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    Just got the Hal6 Team 12 in the mail yesterday. Everything looks great as far as the frame quality and things not being messed up in shipping - hoping to get it put together Saturday.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bdoss123 View Post
    Just got the Hal6 Team 12 in the mail yesterday. Everything looks great as far as the frame quality and things not being messed up in shipping - hoping to get it put together Saturday.
    Sweet! Post some photos of it put together if you can!

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    After doing research for the past month I'm so close to pulling the trigger on a Team 11 or 12. Other choices are DB Release 3 (through corporate discount) or last year's model of YT Jeffsy AL. Will upgrading the seat post and pedals. Everything else seems pretty solid.

    Waiting for some pics before I buy so please post some!

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    Just got the Hal6 Team 12 put together. Still have to setup suspension and get rid of some reflectors and the big plastic wheel plate (whatever that is for). Build seems really solid and everything showed up as described. Can't wait to get some miles on it!

    New Motobecanes - first impressions?-20170411_172202.jpg

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    New Motobecanes - first impressions?-20170411_172156.jpg

  80. #480
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    What's the widest tire people are running on the HAL frame? Now that fat bike season is wrapping up that 2.25 is feeling awfully skinny. Doesn't look like there's much room to go bigger in the chain stays, maybe a little more in the fork...

  81. #481
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    Are any of you guys ripping/ sending it on these things? I'm window shopping for a full squish to get more confident to take it further. Currently my main whip is a Surly Instigator 2.0. Pic is for reference and me on my Gravity Bullseye Monster that is modified. Also I've seen in here they run big, I'm 5'4, will I even fit one? I'm looking at a NS SNABB E2, but wanna save money if I can, this HAL6 has a similar setup in some areas
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New Motobecanes - first impressions?-img_0092_zpsxieuxkgg.jpg  


  82. #482
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    I'm not sure on max tire size, but with stock wheels/tires running with tubes there is a good 5/8" between each side of the tire and the frame.

    I can't comment on sending it yet, but can definitely say theyou run large. I'm a long 6'1 and the large size is big enough with room to grow.

  83. #483
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdoss123 View Post
    Just got the Hal6 Team 12 put together. Still have to setup suspension and get rid of some reflectors and the big plastic wheel plate (whatever that is for). Build seems really solid and everything showed up as described. Can't wait to get some miles on it!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The plastic disc thing is there because some people don't properly tune their rear derailleur so it keeps the chain from running off the tall gear and running into the spokes. Male sure you do a thorough tune-up before thrashing down the trail! ;-) Looks really sweet, thanks for sharing the photos! Have fun!

  84. #484
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    Haha I know why it's there - it just surprised me when I saw it as it has been a long time since I bought a bike that came with one I'll probably leave it on until I've beaten it up a bit and made sure that things are adjusted well.

    Can't wait to get out on it this weekend.

  85. #485
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    Quote Originally Posted by LSJUAN View Post
    Are any of you guys ripping/ sending it on these things? I'm window shopping for a full squish to get more confident to take it further. Currently my main whip is a Surly Instigator 2.0. Pic is for reference and me on my Gravity Bullseye Monster that is modified. Also I've seen in here they run big, I'm 5'4, will I even fit one? I'm looking at a NS SNABB E2, but wanna save money if I can, this HAL6 has a similar setup in some areas
    I'm 6'4 and 230. Not hitting gaps quite as big as in the picture, but I'm not afraid of small to medium drops (up to dropping off a loading dock to flat). I also flew with the bike to Moab and rode slick rock, the whole enchilada and a few other trail networks out there.

    Once I got the suspension dialed in it's been great. Rear rebound dampening is key. I'm also running a couple of extra bottomless tokens in the Pike for a steeper progression.

    I did have the reported problem with my rear hub, but I don't think that had to do with hits. Novatec customer service was great, but I ended up upgrading my rear wheel to a star ratchet hub anyway.

    I've crashed quite a few times going otb on steeps or rollers or washing out my front end. The paint dings easily but no problems otherwise.

    I'm 6'4, 230 lbs so unless you're a chunky 5'4 you probably won't be putting much more stress on the frame than I am.
    Last edited by zeeede; 04-14-2017 at 08:26 AM.

  86. #486
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    I just ordered a large Hal6 Pro and I am 5'11. I'm a little worried it's going to be too big now.

  87. #487
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbogosia View Post
    I just ordered a large Hal6 Pro and I am 5'11. I'm a little worried it's going to be too big now.
    If it hasn't shipped yet, try contacting them.

    Here's their very basic size chart:

    Sizing Guide
    S - 5'5" to 5'7"
    M - 5'8" to 5'10"
    L - 5'11" to 6'1"
    XL 6'2" to 6'4"

    There's a lot of personal variables that go to the bike fit, as well. For example, whether a lot of your height is in your limbs, or your torso.

    If you're concerned and your bike hasn't shipped yet, email them ASAP with your order number and talk over the fit with them. They do include a somewhat long stem with these bikes (I think the one on my XL was a 90 mm) and a long seat tube (but that can easily be cut, if not replaced with a dropper) so you've got a little room to make fit adjustments.

  88. #488
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    I'm 6'1 and it fits me perfectly, you might be better with a medium unless you've got long arms and legs.

  89. #489
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    Thanks guys I'll give them a shout.

  90. #490
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    My bike arrived this week. It took about 4 days to get to me after ordering so I was very happy about that. Putting it together is pretty simple if you have ever worked on bikes before. Everything was in the box and not damaged.

    As far as the bike I am amazed at the quality. First off the components are just unbelievable. I got the Pro and the XT group, pike fork, and monarch plus shock are just plain awesome. Those are parts that I could keep and use for a long time even if I decided to switch frames down the road.

    The frame quality also looks really good to me. I inspected all the welds and they look consistent and done correct. The paint looks just as good as any name brand bike I have ever had. As far as sizing I am glad I got the large 46cm. I am 5'11 and it feels perfect to me. It came with a 90mm stem so once I drop that down to a 50mm it will be even more comfy.

    Overall I am extremely happy with this purchase. I have looked around in my local bike shops and bike's with similar specs are well over $3,000. I just can't justify that kind of money when you can grab a Hal6 Pro for $1999 shipped. Oh and you don't have to pay taxes which saved me another 9.25%.

  91. #491
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    Oh and here is a picture.


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    Congratz on your purchase, looks great! I'm glad the large worked out for you.

  93. #493
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    [QUOTE=MisterMalamute;12848420]Hey everyone. First post here. Reading this thread helped aid my decision in buying my Motobecane Team 11, so I'd thought I'd share some pics.

    So far, I've had the bike for a little over 2 months now


    I actually ordered the exact same stem for mine. How are you liking the 50mm?

  94. #494
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    The 50mm stem works wonders. Did you order wider handlebars as well? I tried the 50mm stem with the stock bars at one point, felt kinda twitchy so I got the wider bars. But hey, you may like that livelier feel.

  95. #495
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    No I didn't. I guess I should look into them. What rise did you get? Looks like they have 0, .5, and 1.25 for the raceface atlas bars.

  96. #496
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    I got the 1.25 inch riser ones. The stock ones on there are 20mm risers, I believe. Not sure if you'd like the .5 or the 0 since they'll bring you to a lower more aggressive stance which is a bit too XC oriented for me. But that's just my opinion!

    I'd probably would have went with 20mm risers to be a bit more stretched out, but I was hell bent on getting the Kash Money color which wasn't available in that size...

    I'm still really happy with my 1.25 riser though. Gives much more confidence going downhill and it's much easier to do jumps with.

  97. #497
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeeede View Post
    What's the widest tire people are running on the HAL frame? Now that fat bike season is wrapping up that 2.25 is feeling awfully skinny. Doesn't look like there's much room to go bigger in the chain stays, maybe a little more in the fork...
    +1 on this question... I want to get new tires this season and I've been looking at the Maxxis DHR/DHF combo. Not sure what size to get as it looks pretty tight in there...

  98. #498
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    Anyone know the correct replacement hanger for the HAL6 Team? I picked up a stick last night. Hoping its the hanger and not the derailleur. That eagle is expensive!

    Derailleur Hangers And Thru-Axles for Bicycles, Mountain Bikes, Road Bikes, Hybrid, Comfort and More Save Up to 60% Off New Bikes

    (I already emailed BD service - just hoping someone here can answer quicker.).

  99. #499
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeeede View Post
    Anyone know the correct replacement hanger for the HAL6 Team? I picked up a stick last night. Hoping its the hanger and not the derailleur. That eagle is expensive!

    Derailleur Hangers And Thru-Axles for Bicycles, Mountain Bikes, Road Bikes, Hybrid, Comfort and More Save Up to 60% Off New Bikes

    (I already emailed BD service - just hoping someone here can answer quicker.).
    So an update to this. I got an email from Larry at BikesDirect asking for pictures of the hanger. I pulled my hanger off and sent him pictures. His reply:

    Quote Originally Posted by Larry

    Hello again,
    I am sorry but we have not recieved that hanger yet from the factory but as soon as we do it will be listed here:
    Derailleur Hangers And Thru-Axles for Bicycles, Mountain Bikes, Road Bikes, Hybrid, Comfort and More Save Up to 60% Off New Bikes
    Best regards,
    Larry @ Bikes Direct
    Say what? No replacement hangers available?

    I emailed back asking what I should do in the meantime. Will update.

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