Just got my Hal6 Expert from BD tonight. I wanted to take some pictures and post an assembly guide specific for the bike, however my phone broke so no camera Still, some may find some guidance useful so here it is.
What you will need:
T25 Torx bit
4mm, 5mm Allen wrench/bit
Phillips head screw driver
Inch lb torque wrench/screw driver
Pedal wrench (different wrenches may work but must have a thin enough head to fit between pedal and crank)
Padding to lay stuff on (the box will work)
1) Remove bike from box and inspect for any damage. My box showed up pretty banged up from UPS but I was happy upon inspection that nothing was damaged. Others have reported similar results so don't freak if your box looks the same. If there are problems like scratches or damaged parts, contact BD as they seem to take pretty good care of their customers.
2) Start by carefully unwrapping all of the components, clipping zip ties (careful not to cut any of the ones that hold the cables down! :thumbsup, undoing the rubber bands, etc. Leave the bags holding the front brake rotor and mounting bracket for now, as well as the rear derailleur.
3) Attach rotors to wheels. My rotors came attached to their respective wheels, so there shouldn't be any guessing involved as to which rotor goes to which wheel. Lay the wheel flat on the ground with the rotor mounts facing towards you. The rotor has a directional rotation arrow, so make sure it is pointed in the right direction, which is counter-clockwise. The rotors will be on the left side of the wheel once the wheel is mounted to the bike, so that should be able to help you visualize if you need. There are 3 locking washers that cover 2 holes each that look like little box end wrenches that should be in the bag with the screws. These go between the rotor and the bolts. Each locking washer has a marking on it that says "top". Make sure this lettering faces out towards you as you assemble. Start by threading each bolt by hand, though they probably wont go in very far. Once all 6 are started, VERY LIGHTLY snug them down in a start pattern. Since there are 6, start with one and then move to the one on the opposite side. Move back to the first bolt and go to the next bolt clockwise from it and snug it down, then move to the opposite bolt. Repeat with the last two. Once that is done, get your torque wrench out and tighten them down to 18-35 in-lbs (2-4 nm). I like to split the difference and tightened them to 25 in-lbs. See this video here if you need some illustrations
2) Remove the 4 stem bolts and mount the handlebar. Snug these up for now, you will torque them to spec later on once the bike is assembled and you are ready to start adjusting the cockpit.
3) Remove the seat and post from the box. Keep the plastic on if you want to help protect it. Loosen the seat post clamp with the 4mm allen bit, slide the seat in, then snug it down.
4) With the seat and handlebars installed, flip the bike upside down. Remove the front brake assembly from the bag, being careful not to drop any of the pieces or let them come apart. If you do, refer to the diagram on page 9 of this manual: http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/dm/DM-BR0006-00-ENG.pdf Tighten each bolt evenly and then torque to 52-70 in-lbs. Again, I split the difference and went with 60.
5) Remove the front thru-axle by pulling back on the lever and placing it in the groove of the axle hub. Rotate counter-clockwise to loosen and then remove once fully disengaged. Install front tire into drop out channels and then insert thru axle and tighten down.
6) Mount rear derailleur to rear drop out using 5mm allen. The bolt to attach them should be inside the derailleur itself, so no need to go looking for it. The hole that it mounts to on the drop out is the one just above the wheel axle . Start tightening the bolt, but before you get too far, rotate the derailleur clockwise so that it bumps up against the drop out. Once you get the bolt most of the way but still loose, release the derailleur and it should rotate itself into proper position and stop. Torque to 70-90 in-lbs (I used 80). See this video here for additional details:
7) Remove rear thru axle and install rear tire. Make sure the rear derailleur cluth lever is in the off position in order to relive chain tension. This part can be confusing and unfortunately I don't have a good way of describing it, so my best advice is to look at pictures to see how the chain routing goes. You will basically pull back on the derailleur and then drop the tire in with the other hand, wrapping the chain around the small cassette cog as you drop it in. Re-insert the axle and tighten. Don't forget to switch the derailleur clutch lever to on.
8) Attach both pedals. Each pedal is marked with an R or an L. Pretty self explanatory, but don't forget that the bike is upside down so they will actually be reversed. Start by finger threading in the pedals (L pedal will be reverse-threaded) then switch to the pedal wrench and hold it in place while backpedaling the bike with your other hand. It should tighten down rather quickly.
9) Put some air in the tires, whatever you like to ride with, then flip the bike back over.
10) Loosen the stem bolts that hold the handle bar, just enough so you can rotate it. Either with a helper or up against something to balance you, saddle the bike and rotate the handles until they feel comfortable to you. Once they feel like they are in the right spot, snug the bolts, then torque to ~45 in-lbs.
11) Using a 4mm allen, loosen the bolts holding down the brakes and shifters. Both should be adjusted so that your hands are at a natural angle when riding, without feeling like you have to twist them downwards or bend your wrists back. The brake levers should be set up so that your index finger reaches the end of the lever and can comfortably pull it while your other three fingers remain on the bar. You may need to adjust the reach of the lever using the finger nobs on the front of the brake levers. Your shifters should be set up so that your thumb and index finger can reach them without having to move your hands. For me, this meant switching the brake levers from the outside to the inside of the gear shifters. See here for more details:
12) Adjust front and rear derailleurs for proper shifting. This is one good video, but there are many so if you are still confused, keep searching until you find the one that works for you.
I think that pretty much covers everything but if I missed anything let me know! After all was said and done, my bike weighed 31.8 lbs. with full stock components. Tomorrow I will try and get some pictures in the day time with my crap camera. This bike really does look tight in person, better than on the website. Moral of the story, this bike is absolutely worth the price and if you are worried about assembling it, don't be. It's fairly easy with a reasonable level of skill, and if not, you can always take it to your LBS.
Tomorrow I will be setting up the wheels tubeless using the WTB TCS rim tape and valve stems along with some Stans sealant. I will post an updated weight once that is done.
What you will need:
T25 Torx bit
4mm, 5mm Allen wrench/bit
Phillips head screw driver
Inch lb torque wrench/screw driver
Pedal wrench (different wrenches may work but must have a thin enough head to fit between pedal and crank)
Padding to lay stuff on (the box will work)
1) Remove bike from box and inspect for any damage. My box showed up pretty banged up from UPS but I was happy upon inspection that nothing was damaged. Others have reported similar results so don't freak if your box looks the same. If there are problems like scratches or damaged parts, contact BD as they seem to take pretty good care of their customers.
2) Start by carefully unwrapping all of the components, clipping zip ties (careful not to cut any of the ones that hold the cables down! :thumbsup, undoing the rubber bands, etc. Leave the bags holding the front brake rotor and mounting bracket for now, as well as the rear derailleur.
3) Attach rotors to wheels. My rotors came attached to their respective wheels, so there shouldn't be any guessing involved as to which rotor goes to which wheel. Lay the wheel flat on the ground with the rotor mounts facing towards you. The rotor has a directional rotation arrow, so make sure it is pointed in the right direction, which is counter-clockwise. The rotors will be on the left side of the wheel once the wheel is mounted to the bike, so that should be able to help you visualize if you need. There are 3 locking washers that cover 2 holes each that look like little box end wrenches that should be in the bag with the screws. These go between the rotor and the bolts. Each locking washer has a marking on it that says "top". Make sure this lettering faces out towards you as you assemble. Start by threading each bolt by hand, though they probably wont go in very far. Once all 6 are started, VERY LIGHTLY snug them down in a start pattern. Since there are 6, start with one and then move to the one on the opposite side. Move back to the first bolt and go to the next bolt clockwise from it and snug it down, then move to the opposite bolt. Repeat with the last two. Once that is done, get your torque wrench out and tighten them down to 18-35 in-lbs (2-4 nm). I like to split the difference and tightened them to 25 in-lbs. See this video here if you need some illustrations
2) Remove the 4 stem bolts and mount the handlebar. Snug these up for now, you will torque them to spec later on once the bike is assembled and you are ready to start adjusting the cockpit.
3) Remove the seat and post from the box. Keep the plastic on if you want to help protect it. Loosen the seat post clamp with the 4mm allen bit, slide the seat in, then snug it down.
4) With the seat and handlebars installed, flip the bike upside down. Remove the front brake assembly from the bag, being careful not to drop any of the pieces or let them come apart. If you do, refer to the diagram on page 9 of this manual: http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/dm/DM-BR0006-00-ENG.pdf Tighten each bolt evenly and then torque to 52-70 in-lbs. Again, I split the difference and went with 60.
5) Remove the front thru-axle by pulling back on the lever and placing it in the groove of the axle hub. Rotate counter-clockwise to loosen and then remove once fully disengaged. Install front tire into drop out channels and then insert thru axle and tighten down.
6) Mount rear derailleur to rear drop out using 5mm allen. The bolt to attach them should be inside the derailleur itself, so no need to go looking for it. The hole that it mounts to on the drop out is the one just above the wheel axle . Start tightening the bolt, but before you get too far, rotate the derailleur clockwise so that it bumps up against the drop out. Once you get the bolt most of the way but still loose, release the derailleur and it should rotate itself into proper position and stop. Torque to 70-90 in-lbs (I used 80). See this video here for additional details:
7) Remove rear thru axle and install rear tire. Make sure the rear derailleur cluth lever is in the off position in order to relive chain tension. This part can be confusing and unfortunately I don't have a good way of describing it, so my best advice is to look at pictures to see how the chain routing goes. You will basically pull back on the derailleur and then drop the tire in with the other hand, wrapping the chain around the small cassette cog as you drop it in. Re-insert the axle and tighten. Don't forget to switch the derailleur clutch lever to on.
8) Attach both pedals. Each pedal is marked with an R or an L. Pretty self explanatory, but don't forget that the bike is upside down so they will actually be reversed. Start by finger threading in the pedals (L pedal will be reverse-threaded) then switch to the pedal wrench and hold it in place while backpedaling the bike with your other hand. It should tighten down rather quickly.
9) Put some air in the tires, whatever you like to ride with, then flip the bike back over.
10) Loosen the stem bolts that hold the handle bar, just enough so you can rotate it. Either with a helper or up against something to balance you, saddle the bike and rotate the handles until they feel comfortable to you. Once they feel like they are in the right spot, snug the bolts, then torque to ~45 in-lbs.
11) Using a 4mm allen, loosen the bolts holding down the brakes and shifters. Both should be adjusted so that your hands are at a natural angle when riding, without feeling like you have to twist them downwards or bend your wrists back. The brake levers should be set up so that your index finger reaches the end of the lever and can comfortably pull it while your other three fingers remain on the bar. You may need to adjust the reach of the lever using the finger nobs on the front of the brake levers. Your shifters should be set up so that your thumb and index finger can reach them without having to move your hands. For me, this meant switching the brake levers from the outside to the inside of the gear shifters. See here for more details:
12) Adjust front and rear derailleurs for proper shifting. This is one good video, but there are many so if you are still confused, keep searching until you find the one that works for you.
I think that pretty much covers everything but if I missed anything let me know! After all was said and done, my bike weighed 31.8 lbs. with full stock components. Tomorrow I will try and get some pictures in the day time with my crap camera. This bike really does look tight in person, better than on the website. Moral of the story, this bike is absolutely worth the price and if you are worried about assembling it, don't be. It's fairly easy with a reasonable level of skill, and if not, you can always take it to your LBS.
Tomorrow I will be setting up the wheels tubeless using the WTB TCS rim tape and valve stems along with some Stans sealant. I will post an updated weight once that is done.