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  1. #1
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    Schwinn SweetSpot Parts

    So after several years of serving me well I gave up on this bike since I was no longer able to find replacement Bushings. It gave me a excuse to by my Ellsworth though which I love.

    Every once in awhile I see the frame sitting in my garage and I think about building it back out, got plenty of extra parts laying around to do it.

    In another thread I found someone mentioned that they were able to find bushings at
    http://www.mcmaster.com/

    Well Looks like they are a pretty standard size but there are so many materials to choose from Nylon, Delrin, Rulan, PTFE, and various incarnations of those also. Any one go this route yet? and what type of material worked well for you? Also specific part numbers you may have ordered from this or another manufacture would be greatly appreciated.


    Looks like there is a ready source of derailleur hangers to be had
    http://www.derailleurhanger.com/schwinn.htm

  2. #2
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    HI! I have ordered bushings from McMaster-Carr. I saved the part # it is 57785k39. This number is about 4 years old, I haven't ordered anymore since I ordered 2 full sets. I chose to get the UHMW bushings. Ultra High Mulecular Weight polyurethane bushings they are white. If I rember correctly the shaft size is 1.5", the outside diameter is 1.75" and the thicness is .125" (1/8th) I had to shorten the insert depth of the bushing but that was no big deal. These bushings are tight, smooth and seemed to wear long It really took the slop out of the rear end. You'll be able to ride that bike forever with a supply of bushings.

    I'm currently riding my sweetspot and it handles some decent sized (4'-5') drops and jumps and speedy rocky downhill runs. A strong frame.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Mang!

    I went ahead an ordered a set made out of Delrin this weekend, part number Part Number: 2705T46, if these do not hold out long I'll give the UHMW's a try. It will be nice to bring this bike back to life, had a lot of good times on it.

  4. #4
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    I have been looking for these bushings for a while. Did these work well for you? I am specifically curious how they fit. I will probalby order the MDS Filled Nylon and give those a try. I found a new set from a LBS but the bushings are blue and for the carbon frames so they wont fit (both schwinn, LBS and a some other guy I met confirmed this). I am an engineer and work with these matarials a lot... From the looks of these blue ones they are nylon.

    I have all the tools to measure the bores and such but if you guys can give me confidence in the fit I will go ahead and order them and not waste any time

    Im in love with my S-20, bought it new in 98

  5. #5
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    HI, yeah my pivot tube is 1.5" outside diameter. The bushing is 1.75" outside diameter to fit into the hole in the frame. The bushing material thickness is .125". The overall width is 2", the flange is .25" around the circumference of the bushing.

    My original bushings are blue nylon also. There is a diffferent size though, I once tried to buy bushings on e-bay, only to find that they were thinner material thickness (I couldn't use them).

  6. #6
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    The one's I tried Delrin , part number Part Number: 2705T46 I was not satisfied with, even though the measurments seemed right, they just did not fit as snug as the Blue OEM ones's.

  7. #7
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    I have a brand new set of BLUE bushings I bought from my LBS and they have one more set with pin. I have the right tools to measure them properly and will do so tonight, along with some digital pics I will post.

    What I need to find out is if they will fit my aluminum ' 98 S-20. The stock bushings on my bike are creme in color. I tried to take my bike apart over the weekend to measure my stock creme color ones but my bike is still tight and I did not want to damage them. Seems like they are still in great shape... for now anyways, but I ride a lot harder these days.

    Any info anyone can provide is helpfull. I have the resources to have some made if I find enough people to place an order and get the price down. Stay tuned as I am determined to make sure my bike last for many more years

  8. #8
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    Ok, here are photos of brand new blue bushings suposedly for the carbon frame homegrown bikes. They measure as such:

    Blue Bushing Measurements
    ID = 1.510
    OD = 1.662
    OAL = 0.630
    Flange Thick = 0.082
    Flange OD = 1.997
    Pin OD = 1.501
    Pin ID = 1.373

    Blue Bushings (Suposedly for Homegrown Carbon Fiber frames)



    My Bushings



    My Bike



    Now, if someone has the creme color ones like on my bike I would be curious what they measure. I would take mine apart but I dont want to mess mine up as they still have a bit of life left in them.

    So, I have two options. I either find bushings for my bike and sell the two blue pair I have (which one is already taken). Or, I find myself a homegrown frame to buy. So if anyone has one laying around I'm a potential buyer.
    Last edited by RoosterFXP; 10-09-2006 at 08:37 PM.

  9. #9
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    Looks like the same frame as mine, only mine was the largest size they made. My bike was originally a 97, at some point (maybe 2000/2001) I broke the front triangle, followed by the rear triangle about 6 month's later, the part's were interchangeable. I think the rear Triangle being like a 1999 it had been upgraded with disk brake mounts.

    I seem to remember at some point they changed the bushings a bit to wear longer. My measurement done imprecisely with a ruler were like what Joemamad stated above.



  10. #10
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    The UHMW bushings I ordered fit tight. My rear had some slop in it from worn bushings, these tightened it up. At first the pivot tube felt a little loose with the bushings out of the frame, but once installed they were tight.

  11. #11
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    Hmm well we seem to have proved there are two different sizes.

    This is getting confusing... im tired from thinking at work all day so i will try to sum it all up soon. I would know for sure if i took my bike apart but im not willing to do that yet...

    How hard is it to get this sweet spot apart?

  12. #12
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    I didn't find it that difficult. Just loosened the pinch bolts and very carefully used a wooden dowl on the pivot tube and tapped the tube out one side. I spread the pinch area very carefully, and only very slightly with a screwdriver to relieve any pinch force on the tube. Once it is out a little ways, it becomes easier to pulll out. I removed the shock before surgery. When reassembling, do not use any petroleum-based lubes (grease, WD-40, 3-in-1 oil, etc...), I used Rock Shox Judy butter it's made especially for plastics like urathane shock elatomers (remember those?).

    I have taked the pivot apart a few times and lubed it because the cleaner you keep the bushings, the longer they will last and the quieter they'll be.

  13. #13
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    OK did a bit more playing around today, took it apart and reassembled everything using some wood blocks and a clamp to press the sides in tight against the bushings. Everything is great no play, etc.

    Went out for a lunch ride about 20 miles, get home and I've got play again.

    Looks like the Blue OEM bushings I have, have a flange thickness a hair over a 1/8 inch, so the pivot arms have to press in more than normal for a tight contact with the 1/8 inch bushings i'm trying. But the arms naturally want to work there way back to there normal position, even though I've torxed the screws down hard.

    Appears to my eye that the flange thickness on my OEM bushings is 4 mm. I can place them next to the 1/8 inch McMaster-Carr see that there abit thicker.
    Last edited by TahoeBC; 10-11-2006 at 06:46 PM.

  14. #14
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    Just to add how I have always serviced mine. Pretty quick and easy.

    Loosen pinch bolts

    Lightly tap out tube with a hammer and tap. Made by grinding and old Phillips head screw driver down to a flat end.

    I just tap it all the way out, no removing of the shock.

    remove bushing, clean up if nessary. I never lubed them in any way. When they start to fit loose in the frame, I wrap them with a couple loops of teflon pipe tape to snug them up.

    insert bushings back in

    line up rear trangle holes and tap cylinder back in.

    with two blocks of wood and a vise I press everything tight

    Tighten pinch bolts

    Seems like at least you could place the blue bushings next to your installed ones and compare the flange thickness for starters.
    Last edited by TahoeBC; 10-11-2006 at 06:50 PM.

  15. #15
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    Guys,

    Things are just not adding up. I have taken notes on all these comments and im scratching my head. TahoeBC if your bushings are definately not less than 1/8 thick on the flange, these new bushings I have are not going to work for you. They are definately less than 1/8. The measurements I made were tken with nice calipers and are accurate to .001 inches with exception to the bushing ID which is probable a couple thousanths larger, this is due to flat spots on the tips. I dont have a proper bore guage but its close enough.

    What I find weird is I gather your OEM flange thickness is larger than 1/8 and you say with the McMaster bushings you have play on the pin. But that would mean that there are two different rear triangles... yours being wider. This it what really throws a wrench in my thinking. Maybe they made the switch in 99 when the rear disc was added. Who knows.

    I may be able to get my hands on a friend of a friends frame for inspection here in a week or so. I will most likely take mine bike apart and see if my new blue bushings are the same as my OEM creme ones. If they are the same im golden, but i will still try to help you guys out. Anyone who has a passion for this frame is a friend of mine. If they are different, im still screwed but at least I will be able to do a comparison and help us all out.

    I will stay tuned with this thread until we solve this. I can get anything made, will probably not be too cheap but the more ordered the price will go down. I would guss for the bushigs alone would be about $40-$60 a pair plus material. Thats about half what I paid for these blue ones!

    My brain hurts, Im off to bed whew.

    Oh btw, if those mcmaster ones fit but you have end play ( a gap in ther ) just need to have some shims made... could be a solution for you. May even be able to get them from McMaster.

  16. #16
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    Yep they are definitely slightly larger than an 1/8 inch, I did think about the shim thing last night also.

    Luckily for me this is not my primary bike, but it sure is fun to take out once in awhile even if I have to retighten the pivot after every ride, since it will only be a few times a year.

    Amazing how well this 10 year old suspension technology has held up over the years. The Bushings have always been the weak link though. The newer ones they came out with lasted much longer than the original one's though.

    I do not believe that I switched my bushings with the new rear triangle though, since I got new ones with my warranted front triangle, 6 month's before. BTW keep an eye on the frame in the pivot area, thats were mine cracked, basically the bike broke in half landing a jump, it was not pretty. The whole pivot area was trashed so I got a new cyclinder and bushings along with the frame.

    One possiblity is mine was the "Homegrown" version made by yeti in Durango.

  17. #17
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    Dumb question, cause I know these bikes well (the aluminim ones) but I must ask...

    You homegrown is carbon fiber right? I just have not been around many carbon bikes so Im wanting to clarify how they are built. If you look at a photo of one you still see welds, so what is really carbon? Do they just use like aluminum connectors and the tubes are carbon molded around the connectors? This may help me, cause I was originally thinking that the pivot housing on a homegrown would be carbon.

    If our pivot housings are made from different materials that would be an important thing to know. I would assume the carbon would need to be thicker in this area they may had to re-engineer the whole thing. This will help me figure out whats going on I think.

    Thanks

  18. #18
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    Mine is aluminim, I think the carbon fiber ones had a whole different look to them.

    See this link
    http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Bike_ful...ct_19210.shtml

    Ours was this one, but the picture is not correct
    http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Bike_ful...ct_19208.shtml

    Updated for correct link
    Last edited by TahoeBC; 10-12-2006 at 09:34 AM.

  19. #19
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    Last edited by TahoeBC; 10-12-2006 at 10:28 AM.

  20. #20
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    Wow - that was a ride in the way back machine....lol I forgot I had that old page - I was determined to save every last SweetSpot then. Since - I've sold that bike and I'll go look in the garage for the parts box I had - if memory serves me right I had an extra set of bushings and couple pivot tubes (even one made of Ti - oooh wow....lol). Hopefully the dimension - or print I had is in there - since I was going to get bushings made... I'll check it out when I get home later....

    FF


    Quote Originally Posted by TahoeBC
    "If I'm leading, I'm bleeding."

  21. #21
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    Back to my dumb question... I was always under the assumption that ALL homegrowns were Carbon Fiber. I know that other weird '99 design was carbon but I thought yours was too TahoeBC.

    So that eliminates some drama. Right now my bust guess is that they infact DID make a design change in the bushings. We both have aluminum frames yet we are getting different measurements.

    Based on the flange thickness alone I think these new bushings I have might fit my bike but not yours. Why? Could be cause my bike is a foreign made and yours (homegrown) is made in usa. Metric vs English? Could be. But you bought english bushings from McMaster and still had slop, but jomamad said they worked for him. So that means a design change?

    jomamad... is your bike a homegrown or s-series? That will help.

  22. #22
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    I never saw a carbon fiber one, and dibs on those Bushings Fast Freddy

  23. #23
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    TahoeBC... the pics on Freddys page of the tube and bearings... I can alost tell by looking at that photo that the flange on those have to be 1/8 or larger... which they will work for you! If I hold mine at that angle they appear thinner.

    I wanted to ask this also if anyone knows for sure: With this frame, what is the difference between the Homegrown and an S-Series? Is it only where they are made? One is not any lighter than the other? They should be dinensionally the same otherwise.

    Freddy... if you can find that drawing we can compare it to the dimensions I took of these new ones I found. That would be auesome!

    Botton line is I need to take my bike apart... but I want to wait till its too cold to ride. My pin is very tight, as others confirm in that first link. It will be difficult for me cause i already beat on it a little bit and it didnt budge at all. That was even with another person helping me by spreading both clamps with screwdrivers.

  24. #24
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    The pictures on his website look just like mine.


    Here is a pic of my bike I grabed from the Schwinn website soon after I bought the bike, looked exactly like this.

  25. #25
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    If I have the bushings I'm thinking of they were thinner. I rememeber when I called Pacific for the parts they had 2 listed so I bought both figuring one of the 2 would work for me. And yes the flanges were different thickness and the outside diameter of the press in busing was slightly different also I think.... but the flange thickness was defintely different. I want to say my was a 98 model. The fullsuspensions like this started in 1996 - but sis not have the oversized pivot. The 97 was the first year for the aluminum sweetspot as we know it. I believe the 99 models added the carbon front triangles.... but the aluminums were still available. The S series and the Homegrowns were the same essential bike except for minor tubing, disc brake tabs, etc.... varied year to year. I actually bought a 99 S30 carbon swapped rear triangles just so I could get disc brakes. The pivot point was exactly the same on each bike. The rear triangle from the S series - the S series was 6 ounce heavier... had disc brake mounts (Hayes specific chainstay mount)... and on the rear droupouts (I know for sure on the drive side) the Homegrowns have tomatos on there and the S series have a Schwinn "S" on them. But other than minor changes (the S series being the beefier of the 2) the S series and the Homegrown series are the same beast.

    Where was I going with this..... I'm forgetting....lol

    Oh yeah - the bushings I beileve are 2 types... the pivot tubes all the same. Not sure on which models - or what year the bushing change was made - never had enough people around to get a concensus...

    Hope this helps some...
    FF
    "If I'm leading, I'm bleeding."

  26. #26
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    I just saved that pic (of Freddys bushings) to my hardrive, you can open it much bigger. I just noticed by doing that I now see the grooves cut into them. I am almost cetain Freddy and you have the same size bushings. The new blue ones I found have NO grooves in them.

    Me on the otherhand, have thinner wall on both my OEM bushings and these new blue ones I bought. The color is different though.

    Im getting more confident that the ones I bought will work for me. I so much hope this is so. Cause I would have 2 new sets then. Im thinking my only unknow is the bushing OD that fits in the frame and I need to disassemble to check that...

  27. #27
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    Thanks for the history lesson Fast Freddy!

    My rear droupouts have tomatos on them.

    RosterFXP, if you decide to ride that bike for awhile, consider upgrading the shock to a air shock. After my Rock Shock Delux started leaking, I upgraded to a Cane Creek air shock, what a difference that made, also it was much lighter!

    PS, you might want to contact this Ebay seller just to ask about his bushings, if nothing else, color, etc.
    http://cgi.ebay.com/SCHWINN-S-30-26-...QQcmdZViewItem
    Last edited by TahoeBC; 10-12-2006 at 12:33 PM.

  28. #28
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    I just put a 2005 Marzocchi MX Pro ETA front fork on her, damn fine porn star she is now. The rear I recently swapped for a Coupe Deluxe (same but with rebound) I found it on ebay for $24. I like it much better.

    My Deluxe shock never leaked authough it did start sounding like it had a little air in it. I ran a 550 pound spring on it cause I was a tiny squirt back then. But putting on the 120mm front fork it put just a tad bit more weight on the rear (decreased head angle), plus I weigh more now. BUT the new Coupe Deluxe came with an 800 pound spring and it solved that problem.

    I am interested in knowing what rear shocks I have to choose from. I would want something nice but have no experience with air, other than my new front fork that has air on one side.

    BTW I love this front fork... if I can get the rear to behave the same I will go nuts. Love all this conversation about this fine piece of history. If I had to buy a new bike now, I wouldnt have a clue what to get.

  29. #29
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    I had my LBS back when it was still around order mine, I think an AD-10, rebuilt it once with a $10 rebuild kit from Cane creek. Even after like 4 years of sitting around it still holds air like a champ! It was pretty amazing to hold both shocks, the coil over one weighed like twice as much!

    http://archive.mtbr.com/12/0EE93FF3.php
    Last edited by TahoeBC; 10-12-2006 at 01:00 PM.

  30. #30
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    That S-30 on Ebay, already mailed the guy hes a powerseller basically knows nothing. Told him that bike is worthless and once the bearings go out your screwed lol. I offered him $200 for it tho, his price is too high.

    I found an AD-10 on Ebay but it needs rebuilt. What kind of controls does it have? Compression and rebound?

    Im gonna send you a PM about something off subject too.

  31. #31
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    I do not recall exactly, there were a couple adjustments that could be made, but I have not changed anything in many years so I forget. The rebuild was pretty easy BTW.

    Here is a link to the manual
    http://www.canecreek.com/fileadmin/c...10%20manual%22

    Just be sure you get the eye to eye length right, they come in different sizes, there might be other considerations also?

    I think the Cloud Nine is a better shock, they had a program going for awhile to upgrade the ad-10 to Cloud nine's for a pretty good discount.

  32. #32
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    Talking rear shock...

    If you notice when you take off the rear shock this pivot allows you to pull up the rear to almost endless rotation. Making it appear that you can put any length rear shock on it. What you think? With a longer front fork decreasing my head angle, lifting the rear would get me back to stock... almost like a lift kit lol... btw, the new fork didnt make much difference in handling, my LBS had me paranoid about sluggish steering but I BARELY notice a difference.

    So if I could go a half inch longer on the rear shock I would consider it... trying to figure out that geometry in my head... and im a machine designer lol, I could whip up a quick 3D model to make sure it would even be doable but I dont have the time. Bushings are #1 priority right now it seems.

    I hope Freddy can hook you up, Im from St. Louis so if you ever drive thru with the bike lets go ride the **** outta these bad boys!

  33. #33
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    I dunno, seems like you'd mess up the geometry to me, but if you can find some cheap used shocks to play with, might be fun to try out!

  34. #34
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    Rooster, if that is you bidding on the black schwinn homegrown front triangle on e-bay, FWY that is aluminum. Carbon fiber is not welded together (welds are clearly visible in pics) and the carbon fiber Schwinn homegrown front monocoque frames look completely different (not tubular), they look like boomerangs. The '99 S-10,S-20, S-30 are the carbon fiber Sweetspots, the S-40 like mine is the "low end" 6061 aluminum framed iteration, it was however made by yeti in Colorado or a company called Annodizing inc. in the U.S.A. as were all of the "Homegrowns". There are '96 S-9 sixes that are aluminum but have drastically different pivots and rear triangles. My Homegrown has tomatoes on the dropouts and the rear chainstay disk mount.

  35. #35
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    Disc Brake Swap?

    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Freddy
    the S series was 6 ounce heavier... had disc brake mounts (Hayes specific chainstay mount)
    First off, let me state that I am enjoying this thread immensely! I recently came into an S-20 that is the twin of the orange one above and love it to the point that my brand new Avalanche 1.0 is going up for sale. The one thing I am loathe to give up is disc brakes (Hayes hydraulic on the 1.0 ruined me forever) so finding Fast Freddy's post was heartening. I would happily do a rear triangle swap if someone could enlighten me as to which years and models would allow addition of rear discs, if any. Thanks in advance for your wisdom, all.

  36. #36
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    jomamad, ya that was me bigging on that but only cause i figued if i had a homegrown and a foreign made one that these pivot bearings i have would have to fit one of them. I was only willing to pay the dollar for it lol, i hope whoever bought it reialized it was an incomplete frame lol

    im just going to have to break down and disassemble by bike to know for sure... maybe this weekend

    i finally have a grasp of the frame materials/years... but cant help the other guy here about what years have disc or not...

    i honeslty love vbrakes myself

  37. #37
    The Top Cap Guy
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    Quote Originally Posted by mophile
    I would happily do a rear triangle swap if someone could enlighten me as to which years and models would allow addition of rear discs, if any.
    I believe the disc brake mounts started in 1999 - as the Hayes specific chain stay mount. I'm not sure if and when they switched over from that point to a 51MM IS mount on the top of the seat stay (like most brakes today).

    I had to buy a 99 S30 Carbon (because thats all I could find at the time) to swap rear ends.

    FF
    "If I'm leading, I'm bleeding."

  38. #38
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    I haven't forgotten about you guys... the box of parts was not where I thought it was... which suprised me... as it was a pretty big box... oh well when it turns up I'll post...

    FF
    "If I'm leading, I'm bleeding."

  39. #39
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    Finally...

    I found some new old stock!

    I bought several pair of them... all he had but its enough to get several bikes back on the trail.

    I will put some up on ebay to try and recoup some cost... first auction #130200618407
    Last edited by RoosterFXP; 02-22-2008 at 04:28 PM.

  40. #40
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    Hi do you have any more of these bushings left?? I am building up a Homegrown sweet spot frame. It will include a Rohloff hub, gravity dropper seatpost, a Monitou Minute IT with remote, and a Cane Creek Cloud nine. Should be a cool ride. Cheers

  41. #41
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    Oh yeah ny Email is:Pscribner@Stoweaccess.com. Thanks

  42. #42
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    Hi, I love my Mazda, thats why I am posting in the Ford owners club forum and asking questions Miata.....

    Sorry Schwinn guy (can I call you GUY?) but this is a GT Forum...

    There is a POS forum exclusive to Schwinn and Mangoose

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmerjohn
    Hi, I love my Mazda, thats why I am posting in the Ford owners club forum and asking questions Miata.....

    Sorry Schwinn guy (can I call you GUY?) but this is a GT Forum...

    There is a POS forum exclusive to Schwinn and Mangoose

    Well the Schwinn Forum used to be combined with the GT forum after they they both got bought by Pacfic and became wallmart bikes. When they split the Forums up this old thread did not get moved with it.

    Enjoy your POS GT farmer boy I hear there good for sneaking up on sheep

  44. #44
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    Seeking info on Sweetspot flanges for S-30

    Quote Originally Posted by RoosterFXP
    I found some new old stock!

    I bought several pair of them... all he had but its enough to get several bikes back on the trail.

    I will put some up on ebay to try and recoup some cost... first auction #130200618407
    Hi, My S-30 finally started creaking enough to annoy me into searching for info on replacement parts. I found a 2006 reference to McMaster-Carr part number 57785K39 UHMW Bearing Flange for 1-1/2" Shaft Diameter and 1-3/4" OD. I bought a couple of those and they arrived yesterday. Sadly these parts are way too loose on the bearing tube to be of any use. Would you happen to have any more up to dat info on the true replacement flanges? My originals are a beige color.
    Cheers,
    David.

  45. #45
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    i still have 3 pair of the beige ones... email me at roosterfxp at yahoo. if for some reason you dont hear from me send me a pm here on the board.

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    Spotty Sweet parts

    Yo RoosterDuuuuude,
    Thanks for the followup. I'm in comms now with TahoeBC with a view to trying a blue set he has collecting dust. If TBC's parts come through and fit the bill/frame/bearing tube I'll be sending him the McMaster-Carr items I've already purchased. If those don't fit I'll return his then I'd definitely like to take up your offer for a beige set... especially as my originals are that color. I've no idea about the color esoterics.
    Cheers.
    P.S. Not sure how I would reply to you off this public thread but I'll try what I think you suggested.

  47. #47
    CTB
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeamCodger
    Sadly these parts are way too loose on the bearing tube to be of any use. .
    Sorry if this sounds insulting, but it isn't meant to be. Did you press the bushings into your frame before checking the fit to the pivot tube? I say this because I bought similar bushings in another application, and they were way too loose when "free." However, pressed into their proper location, they tightened up to the correct amount for the application (a shock pivot on another bike). It doesn't seem like this would happen if you just look at the bushings, but it does.

    I have both blue and tan bushings lying in wait for my Sweetspot, and they both are too big for the tube in their free state.

  48. #48
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    Helpful hommies - SweetSpot War and Peace

    Yo CTB... Thanks for the beta ... no insult detected and glad of your input. Very interested to hear that the McM-Carr 57785K39 would endure being pressed into the frame and result in a snug fit on the bearing tube. As you say, just eye-balling it leaves me thinking there's a definite size gap that would not be bridged by squeezing the flanges in. TahoeBC mentioned something I'd noticed about the flange outer rim thickness: his blue set have an obviouse slimmer profile/thickness in comparison with the 57785K39. Mr. Rooster is my best option at the moment I think because the beige colored ones I've removed are at least the same color as one of the sets he has and that's a pretty good start. I'm going to work with him to get them to me for a looksee. I'll bear in mind your findings in the event that the fresh beige set don't fit the bill/frame.
    Cheers.

  49. #49
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    Sweetspot Parts

    Hi Guys!
    I have a Schwinn Homegrown Sweetspot carbon frame (98,99?) and know what you mean about parts sourcing issues. Well, it turns out that John Castellano designed the sweetspot bikes for both Ibis and Schwinn. He has parts for your bikes! Check out the link below and contact him for parts.
    http://www.castellanodesigns.com/index.html
    I asked him awhile back about forks (I got a 100mm Tora, what a difference!) and got great answers. He even sells rear shocks speced and built specifically from Fox.
    Keep the rubber down!

  50. #50
    CTB
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    Thanks for the tip, Broonsby! I never even thought to see if Castellano had parts. I've wanted to put a nice Fox on the back for a while now, but there aren't any standard ones that match the dimensions and travel. I'm intrigued...

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