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  1. #326
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    mongoose d40r, owned since 6th grade when it was new

  2. #327
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    ill post pics when im done with my ss conversion. its all torn apart right now

  3. #328
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    my 2010 mongoose teocali











  4. #329
    Dirty High Desert Guy
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    Action shot of my Canaan (yeah, I know, but it's the only one I have handy). Reba Race fork, Fox RP2 shock, XT stuff, Avid Elixers, blah blah.


  5. #330
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  6. #331
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    I just bought this from a friend who needed some cash basically as a favor to him. I've searched forever trying to get details on it. I know he bought it around 2005 on sale for 420 and it was originally around 800. It says tech4 on the frame but the only tech 4 I can find online is yellow and a recent model without disc brakes. I got it for 60 bucks and it even came with a hydraulic front/rear disc setup still in the box. I think it kinda sorta looks like the early 2000's mongoose wing series. I'm prob gonna keep it but Im still unsure if its worth putting any money into yet. anyone know if its worth a dern?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails post your mongoose-imageuploadedbytapatalk1327161774.307104.jpg  

    Last edited by lamar83; 01-22-2012 at 09:57 AM.

  7. #332
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    I think those were part of the higher end Mongoose series; back when Mongoose Wing Comp were part of the Pro series. The Wing Comps were different suspension setup from what I remember. Can you see any model numbers and manufacture markings on the drivetrain components? Who makes the fork? If they are decent components, then it's worth it.
    2009 Access 9.5 29er
    2010 Diamondback Insight RS (700c hybrid)
    Velorazzo frame build (26)

  8. #333
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    MOZO groove front fork
    SRAM 4.0 pro shifters and rear derailer
    Shimano front derailer
    KT Tech Quando hubs
    SR Suntour crankset
    Promax brake set up
    I haven't seen the bike in 3 years. bout to go pick it up now. Like i said i did it as a favor and I know he used it maybe 3 times then put it in storage. My Gary Fisher Joshua is dated and Ive been wanting something to play with.
    Last edited by lamar83; 01-22-2012 at 09:14 AM.

  9. #334
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    I'd buy it for $60. From what I remember, they're decent, just heavy. I'd throw a Rockshox Recon on it and update the brakes. Fix anything that's broken and that's it.
    2009 Access 9.5 29er
    2010 Diamondback Insight RS (700c hybrid)
    Velorazzo frame build (26)

  10. #335
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    Made some updates to my el cheapo goose build.
    -removed v- brakes and installed stock K2 disc rear wheel and disc brake setup I bought from friend $20
    -replaced grip shift crap w/ SRAM x4 trigger shifters $15 on amazon
    -replaced suntour crankset with shimano Alivio $15 new in box from friend.
    - replaced Walmart special tires with WTB velociraptors
    $25 for set with coupon.
    I also traded the hydro brakes that came with it for a rock shox tora that needs new seals. I can't wait to get it rebuild cause this Mozo is junk!!! Bottomed out in my backyard on a 3ft drop!! I'm at $135 total investment thus far so I'm happy.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails post your mongoose-imageuploadedbytapatalk1328025146.424601.jpg  


  11. #336
    Singletrack Slayer
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    Quote Originally Posted by lamar83 View Post
    Made some updates to my el cheapo goose build.
    -removed v- brakes and installed stock K2 disc rear wheel and disc brake setup I bought from friend $20
    -replaced grip shift crap w/ SRAM x4 trigger shifters $15 on amazon
    -replaced suntour crankset with shimano Alivio $15 new in box from friend.
    - replaced Walmart special tires with WTB velociraptors
    $25 for set with coupon.
    I also traded the hydro brakes that came with it for a rock shox tora that needs new seals. I can't wait to get it rebuild cause this Mozo is junk!!! Bottomed out in my backyard on a 3ft drop!! I'm at $135 total investment thus far so I'm happy.
    Sounds like you got some pretty good deals for that bike! That will definitely help make it more ride able. However, one thing I'm concerned about is that you are already riding past the level the bike is meant for, Time to start saving up for the next one?

  12. #337
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    I'm in negotiation with the sales guy at the local bike shop on a left over 2011 rockhopper comp 29er. We're about 50 bucks away from me taking it home. I'm just enjoying having something to work on plus I'm prob gonna make it my loaner bike. Since posting the pic I also bought a x-fusion 02 rl rear shock for it online for 70 bucks! It's gonna be a great loaner/ starter bike at right at $200 invested

  13. #338
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    Washed the Teocali after getting caught by rain. So decided to take some pics before it gets dirty again. Have upgraded the following from stock, still my favorite bike

    2011 Avid Elixir CR brakes with 203mm Magura rotors
    SRAM XO shifters and rear Dérailleur
    SRAM XO cassette
    Shortened my stem with 70mm FSA afterburner and cut the bars by about 40mm to 640mm.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails post your mongoose-108.jpg  

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    Last edited by Cobra8d; 01-31-2012 at 11:29 PM.

  14. #339
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    more pics
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails post your mongoose-dscn0142.jpg  

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  15. #340
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    2008 Teocali Comp

    Upgraded nearly everything on this Teocali comp: Ancient but indestructible and light Crossmax Discs, Fox RP3, LX crank, X9 derailleur, Easton seatpost, Bontrager saddle, Answer carbon bar, Ritchey stem. Only the front derailleur, fork, and brakes are stock. 31-32 pounds.

    This was my trusty steed until some idiot rear ended me while it was on my bike rack. That accident happened not 5 minutes after I had retrieved it from my LBS after having that shiny new LX crank installed on it . RIP. Oh well, moved on to a Kona Dawg afterwards with the insurance money. I gained 0.5 inch of travel, weight savings, and better climbing ability, but the Mongoose was plusher and was a better descender, though the Dawg is no slouch.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails post your mongoose-teocali.jpg  

    Last edited by Soundtallica; 02-03-2012 at 12:24 PM.

  16. #341
    Life Is Short
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    My 2001 NX7 with barely 4" of travel. Got rid of it many moons ago but I remember it as a nice trail bike. I put Avid BB7's, Diamondback pedals, changed the rear shock to a RockShox and wheels to Sun Ringles. Looking back at it I can't believe I had a 100mm stem, BB7's and that saddle. That bike cost me $900 and that was $$$$ mucho money back then.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails post your mongoose-p4pb160132.jpg  


  17. #342
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    2008 Otero Elite. Only the handlebar, stem, seat post, rear tire, and fork are stock. All pivot points re-engineered to work right and not make noise. And no more loose ball bearings. Its not light but its a LOT of fun to ride.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails post your mongoose-dsc_4143.jpg  


  18. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by hadique View Post
    2008 Otero Elite. Only the handlebar, stem, seat post, rear tire, and fork are stock. All pivot points re-engineered to work right and not make noise. And no more loose ball bearings. Its not light but its a LOT of fun to ride.
    OK, you peaked my interest... How/what did you re-engineer the pivots?
    2009 Access 9.5 29er
    2010 Diamondback Insight RS (700c hybrid)
    Velorazzo frame build (26)

  19. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardwarz View Post
    OK, you peaked my interest... How/what did you re-engineer the pivots?

    Ditto

  20. #345
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    Glad you asked.... needed another post. Pictures at the end.

    So, the bottom bracket pivot:
    The chain stay bearing ears could both flex and move side to side. Sometimes not even under load (after the first bearing replacement the press fit wasn't that tight anymore). It flexes because it is held in place via the inner bearing race which provides a place for the outer ears to torque around. It can move side to side because the bearing press fit is supposed to keep the ears in position and wears out as you'd expect in aluminum. As you work the bike, both of these things damage the bearings. And holding it all together via the inner bearing race destroys the bearing that much faster as it isn't designed for those kinds of lateral loads.

    My fix, instead of a small alloy washer pushing against the inner race and the bike seat tube, there is a thick brass washer supporting the ears themselves against the seat tube. The inner race is supported by a thin brass washer pushing against the thick brass one. This supports the ears, provides a smooth pivot area, and relieves pressure on the inner bearing race. I had to file the seat tube area until the thick brass washer fit. We're talking less than 1/8".

    Everything now pivots around the outer races and chain stay ears as its supposed to.

    [Ignore the washer on the outside of the bearing. That is an unnecessary addition that I'll remove sometime later this year.]


    The top seat stay quick release:
    This area also suffers from being supported by the inner bearing races and not supporting the seat stay bearing ears. The same fix as above except I used nylon washers to support the ears and a thin steel washer to support the bearing race. You can see the old alloy washers as I reused them to support the skewer ends against the inner races.

    Same results as above.


    The front shock mount:
    I replace the alloy shock mounts with brass bushings and a second washer. This eliminated most noise. I added 1.5mm thickness over all to make up for the imprecise welding. When the triangle was squeezed together, the tension caused the bike frame itself to creak and groan during bumps. By de-tensioning the welded triangle, the frame stopped creaking. That eliminated the last of the noise. The exact extra thickness needed depends on the individual bike. I'm sure some don't need any and some might need less.


    The rear shock mount:
    Same as above but no extra thickness. I never noticed noise coming from exactly here but hey.


    The bottom seat stay pivot (near the drop out):
    The brass bushing used by Pacific Cycle was actually shattered when I went to service it. No surprise.... its 1mm thick walls are impossible to buy from an actual brass bushing manufacturer. 3mm is the industry standard at this size!!! The flange is also industry standard at 1mm while PC had 0.5mm ones made somewhere. They were NOT designed for ANY load. I can't believe they weren't crushed to dust actually. Probably weren't far off.

    So I drilled the 11mm hole out to 13mm and filed the ear down an extra 1.5mm and installed the industry standard bushings. I then used a 1mm washer on the other end.


    The top tube pivot:
    I didn't touch it and there is no picture for that reason. Nothing was wrong with it. I suspect it doesn't see the same loads as the bottom seat stay pivot and hence the 1mm thick bushings were okay. IF they are bad when I check them at the end of this year, they will get drilled to 13mm and the industry standard bushings will be installed.



    Rode this setup the entire fall last year and it was perfect! No noise, no issues, and I was that much harder on the bike in order to see what would fail. Questions and concerns equally welcome.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails post your mongoose-dsc_4150.jpg  

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  21. #346
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    My first Mongoose, BooT'R
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails post your mongoose-dsc00557.jpg  

    Still on training wheels

  22. #347
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    my new goose before its first ride


  23. #348
    --Raleigh--
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    Awesome bikes here im really starting to like the upper level bikes from mongoose better than the bikes at my lbs (specialized, cannondale ect). once i get the right amount of posts ill put mine up.
    2011 Raleigh Talus 29 sport Commuter Mode
    2001 K2 Zed V Mountain Duty
    1994 GT Outpost Steel, Rigid Awesomeness

  24. #349
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    Here it is. Mongoose vadium isnt the nicest but it does pretty good on the local trails here. Its pretty much stock now but I just ordered avid sd-7 brakes and have done the inner tube chainstay protector. Planning on getting a few light weight parts (handle bars, stem, seatpost, saddle ect.) and am saving up for a nice fork to get rid of the "element" one that came on it
    2011 Raleigh Talus 29 sport Commuter Mode
    2001 K2 Zed V Mountain Duty
    1994 GT Outpost Steel, Rigid Awesomeness

  25. #350
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    I'll just repeat the common wisdom and urge you to save your money up to buy a used bike or something from a site like bikesdirect. You will end up with a better frame, better parts, and save loads of cash in th long run. This is coming from experience (my first 'bike' was a walgoose xr75) and the experience of so many others here. Enjoy your bike for what it is, and have patience.

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