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  1. #1
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    In need of a little wisdom with a Mongoose Tyax Pro

    So I've got this pristine (barely even 100 miles) Mongoose Tyax Pro (2008 model I think) from my dad. I probably put an excess of 6,000 miles on an identical one I had. I rode it to high school every day (EVEN in the pouring rain, the 30 degree weather and the hot hot heat), to my girlfriend's house, to the local hang out spots, to downtown. You name it, I rode my bike there.
    Eventually, some parts started to develop fatigue. I sold it and liberated this pristine one from my dad.

    In my younger and lazier days, I would let stuff slide and disregard small problems until they turned into big problems, but a recurring issue has developed between these two, identical bikes.

    After a few months of serious riding, my original bike developed a very annoying bottom bracket ticking. It kinda got worse over time, but it never hindered the performance of the bike. It started out as 1 tick per revolution, then 2, then 2 and a half ticks, then 3, then 4, and at that point I stopped counting or caring.
    Before you say anything, I took it back to where it was bought numerous times. Even though it was sold with a promise of "tune-ups for the life of the bike", they didn't want to honor this serious sounding problem so early in the bike's life.
    The noise wouldn't happen unless there was weight on the pedals. So, of course, when you put the bike up on a mount to test it, it was squeaky clean (no pun intended).

    I, nor my uncle, ever wanted to go around messing with taking the bottom bracket apart. My uncle has two Masters degrees in mechanical and electrical engineering, in addition to riding/fixing bikes for 20 years, and he still opted out of a wonderful opportunity to total a great bike by taking apart the bottom bracket.

    Sorry for the long post, but I was curious if anyone was familiar with this issue? The other bike (with almost zero use) already has the ticking issue. On the old bike, I tried tightening the BB a little bit, loosening it a little bit, but it didn't seem to make a difference.

    thanks for the help guys!

    p.s. When taking the new bike out for a spin, the front lock-out didn't seem to work. This disappoints me greatly because I loved the lock-out on my old bike, and the front shocks are especially mushy. Is this a blown seal or something?

  2. #2
    Uly
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    I would check the derailleur pulleys. Could be that rain water got in there and did some damage to the bearings.

  3. #3
    gran jefe
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    tighten up the BB. you don't have to have the proper tools if it's the kind I am thinking of. a pair of big channellock pliers will to the job.

    tell your uncle it's a loose ball cup and cone bearing, and that the parts he can see are the cone and the lockring, and that you want all the play out, but no preload on the bearings. drop the chain onto the bottom bracket so you can spin the crank to see if it is binding.

    of course, the proof is still in the riding...

    good luck!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill in Houston View Post
    tighten up the BB. you don't have to have the proper tools if it's the kind I am thinking of. a pair of big channellock pliers will to the job.

    tell your uncle it's a loose ball cup and cone bearing, and that the parts he can see are the cone and the lockring, and that you want all the play out, but no preload on the bearings. drop the chain onto the bottom bracket so you can spin the crank to see if it is binding.

    of course, the proof is still in the riding...

    good luck!
    Cup and cone on the 2008 era bike would be highly unlikely. The mongoose "pro" bikes from that time would like be using shamono octilink. So there will be no repackable bearings. The mongoose stock flat peddles do click as described so you might try a peddle swap out.

    As to the fork. 2008-2009 rokshox dart 3 and tora 289 had a seal flaw that caused them to leak and loss damping and lockout. My damper was replaced under warranty on my Otero Pro "the FS brother" to the Tyax Pro.

  5. #5
    What?
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    Quote Originally Posted by faceplant72 View Post
    Cup and cone on the 2008 era bike would be highly unlikely. The mongoose "pro" bikes from that time would like be using shamono octilink. So there will be no repackable bearings. The mongoose stock flat peddles do click as described so you might try a peddle swap out.

    As to the fork. 2008-2009 rokshox dart 3 and tora 289 had a seal flaw that caused them to leak and loss damping and lockout. My damper was replaced under warranty on my Otero Pro "the FS brother" to the Tyax Pro.
    This is a great post and that it right on.

  6. #6
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    When there's a ticking coming from the area of the bottom bracket the first thing I do is pull the bottom bracket (it's really not that hard but requires two specific tools), wrap the bottom bracket threads with teflon tape (making sure to go in the correct direction), liberally apply anti-seize, and then reinstall everything. Frequently this alone will fix the issue.

  7. #7
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    I don't understand why you don't want to pull out the bottom bracket? Your uncle was a bike mechanic but is afraid of removing the bottom bracket??? It's not that difficult, and i would guess if there's an unusual noise coming from the bottom bracket the very first thing i would want to do is to take out the bottom bracket to look for the problem. Take it out, look for any damaged parts, if so replace them, if not at least clean it out and regrease it and put it back in all nice and firm. I've had bottom bracket problems before that resolved with a few spanners and a bit of grease.

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