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  1. #1
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    :/ Mongoose Xr-Comp

    Okay this is my first post, I think its in the right sections, If not Admins please move and sorry.

    First off let me say hi, My name is louis.

    Okay Im not new to the sport but been out of it for about 3 years aso, I used to have a Specialized Big Hit, I loved the bike would still have it today if it was not to small for me, was a size small and im about 5-10 1/2-11, I kept hitting my knees when i would fool around ect. I also had P serries bike for a little while, But i sold both and was going to buy a bigger bighit when i had to use the money for something else

    So that is how i ended up getting the Mongoose 09 Xr-Comp bike, Was not my first choice but picked it up for 175 out the door.(at Wally World ) I know I know not the best choice but i was getting desperate. I looked and looked on craigslist for a while and just could not find something i like for a price i was willing to pay.

    So now you know why i got the bike and previouse bikes, So if your answer is going to be return it thats not an option, Sorry.

    So my question are, as i have not been riding for a while kinda lost touch with whats hot, good, ect.

    Since Im in 175, Im going to dump another 300-400 into it, new brakes, forks, ect. And then at the end of the summer/winter when funds allow, I will take my forks, brakes, ect and start a build on a new frame and use what i want off this and prob get rid of it.

    It seems to be decnent besides from its weight(used to it from my BH) it has some decent parts has Sram x4 shifters, and Rear Deraulier(sp), and thats it

    So fare I picked up a set of Avid Juicy 5 160mm F/R set of disc(100 bucks Ebay). I am also going to order ether a Sram X9 or Shimona 660 Front D, Since the one of this one I have never heard. Ill keep the X4 shifter and R D.

    Couple questions.
    I would like a 120-140MM fork, What is a decent fork that can take Mild-Average All mountain riding.

    Also the Shimona 660 or Sram X9 Front Derauluer and do i have low mount out top mount.

    Any thing else you think be smart to upgrade soon, and please try and keep this thread helpfull its not the best option but what money allows till a new frame ect, can be found.

    Sorry for the long long long Post .

  2. #2
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    My advice,

    Ride it. If you have to change anything, change the seat and maybe handle bars and/or stem and if you absoltely have to, the tires. Otherwise, ride it stock. Replace parts that need replacing when they break, otherwise leave it alone.

    Ride it for a while, from there you'll know better what exactly needs replaced. I know you'd like a 120-140mm fork, but if the one you have handles everything you throw at it, why not use it until it needs replaced?

    You already picked up the Avid Jucy, so you might as well throw it on. If that front derailer works, I'd leave it until it fails.

    I use to build custom paintball guns. Everyone wanted to trick out the guns, you weren't cool if you had a stock gun. I watched better players with stock gun take out players with $1000.00+ guns. It's the 75% the player and 25% the gear.

    Hardwarz

  3. #3
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    Yea, that is my general idea for the bike, replace parts as i need them, the brakes i always wanted hydros and the mechincals were not what i was looking for. Everything else so fare on the bike seems to be holding up great no real problems with it.

    From me looking at bikes in person and then on the internet has alot of the same features of bikes up to the 1200 dollar range, The sram x4 stuff seems to be decent. Was looking at a schwin (sp) last night they were selling for like 950 and it had the same forks, ect and a couple trek/specialized bikes i have looked at look to have similar parts so thats a good start.

    Couple quick questions, Not gonna go run out and by a shock but if i find a good deal on one, they are all pretty much the same right, i just need one with disk mounts and 26ser wheel. Any thread about basics of shocks.

    Also a thread about basic bike up keep, maintaince, ect.

  4. #4
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    Make sure your steer tube is 1-1/8"

    Purchase a fork with a 1-1/8" steer tube. If you purchase it used, make sure you know the current lengh (measured in mm) of your steer tube. Your replacement steer tube must be the same lenght or longer than your current steer tube.

    Once you remove the stem & brakes, the fork will come right out. You'll need to remove the bearing race and move it to the new fork. Install the new fork, connect up the brakes and stem.

    Putting the race back onto the new fork may require special hardware. Here's some decent instructions. http://www.mountain-bike-world.com/m...ike-forks.html

    I used a 2x4 piece of lumber that was cut 24" and supported the arch of the fork on the end of the 2x4. My friend held it in place while I hammered it in place.

    Truthfully, the best thing I ever purchased for my bike was a book. "The Bicycling Guide to Complete Bicycle Maintenance & Repair: For Road & Mountain Bikes" by Todd Downs. It's about $20. I never go to any bike shop for any repairs or adjustments.

    Hardwarz

  5. #5
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    Yea, I just picked that book up yesterday looks to be decent, will get me by with my normal repairs and stuff.

    Also the shock im pretty sure it is the normal size the 1 1/8 one i would imagine i dont see them using somthing diffrent then the cheapest and easy to get.

  6. #6
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    Don't run a 120mm or 140mm fork on that bike. There's a very good chance the extra length will provide too much leverage and the head tube will break off.

    Make sure any new fork you get has the same axle to crown (a2c) height as your current fork.

  7. #7
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    I thought that when you get a longer travel fork it does not really make the shock longer like using longer tubes, just built a little diffrenent so you can have more travel, If i get a 120-140mm shock my front will sit up higher then it is now.

    Also i dont think it will break, there is a guy on here running a 130mm shock on this bike for a couple months, ill pm him and ask him if he has had any problems.

  8. #8
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    Little update, Put some juicy 5s, I got off ebay for 100 bucks on it, work great. Also i weighted the bike it ways 40 pounds, Donno if thats good or bad, but seems a little heavy, but i remember my dh bike was heaver then ****.

  9. #9
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    How's the XR-Comp doing?

    Did you end up switching the front derailleur? If so, did you get one with a high or a low clamp?

    I bought one about a month ago and have been upgrading some of the components. My plan is pretty much the same as yours... upgrade the comp's components, buy a better frame some day, take the good components from the comp and put on the better frame. Then I'll just put the old stuff back on the comp and use it as a secondary.

    Any pics of your bike you could post?

    Kind regards,
    Christian

  10. #10
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    For reference:

    My 2002 Mongoose Pro Sommet weighs 30.2 lbs. The hard tail I built my wife (which is a 7075 series aluminum) and is light... at 29.6 lbs. My old Mongoose Pro compact road bike was super light at 25.2 lbs

    Hardwarz

  11. #11
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    Its been holding up pretty good only rode it maybe 10 times so fare no problems, I am going to lake Tahoe in about 3 weeks so that will be the real test.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by lousieg55
    I thought that when you get a longer travel fork it does not really make the shock longer like using longer tubes, just built a little diffrenent so you can have more travel, If i get a 120-140mm shock my front will sit up higher then it is now.

    Also i dont think it will break, there is a guy on here running a 130mm shock on this bike for a couple months, ill pm him and ask him if he has had any problems.
    The front will sit up higher because the fork is longer. Anyone who runs a 130mm fork on a Wal-Mart bike is in line to earn a Darwin award. Just because someone on the internet does it, doesn't make it a good idea.

    You can take a 120 or 140mm fork and drop it down to 100, then you'd be good to go.

  13. #13
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    how is it still holding up, i'm about to buy an XR-Comp looks nice, in my price range (15 years old here) and probably would be the most bad ass bike out of all of my friends bikes.
    a bicycle is the most efficient machine ever created, a bicycle gets the equivalent of three thousand miles per gallon

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blake Kawalec
    how is it still holding up, i'm about to buy an XR-Comp looks nice, in my price range (15 years old here) and probably would be the most bad ass bike out of all of my friends bikes.

    He took it to Tahoe and was never heard from again.
    '10 SXT
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