Here is the now discontinued Mongoose Masher: I found about four pictures of this model on the internet. New, this bike sold for about $180.00 US and was classified as a Hardtail Moutain Bike. It came with 21 speed, Front Disc, Front Suspension Fork and rear V-Brakes. It was also equiped with Grip Shifters. Overall I thought it was a worthy and rugged yet affordable Mountain Bike.
A friend of mine brought it over with a trashed front rim and some scrapes. It had been sitting outside so it also had a little bit of rust here and there but nothing major, just the unprotected steel screws had rusted and the chrome on the forks had surface rust. Some of the chipped areas in the surface of the paint were rusted. Fortunately it was only surface rust.
I took all the parts off and sanded down the frame. The frame is Hi-10 Steel and was in great shape. It didn't have any dents or broken welds and was as straight as new.
After I cleaned all the stickers off and sanded down the paint the surface was nice and smooth and I feathered all the chips and scratches. I used 320 dry sand paper for the worst of it and then followed up with 400 wet sandpaper to final sand before priming the steel
Here is the Mongoose Masher frame sanded and ready for final prep and taping before shooting the high temp primer onto the sanded steel. I didn't take the surface down to bare metal in all areas because the factory sealer and primer were in excellent shape and I could use this to help seal the steel in order to keep it from rusting. I like to wet sand because it keeps the dust down and out of my lungs. I always immediately dry the surface so the exposed steel doesn't rust.
After a final sand and dry I checked the surface for anything I might have missed when it was wet and lightly scuffed any missed areas with a dry sythetic steel wool pad. Completely sanding every little area ensures the primer coats will stick. If you miss a spot and the primer has a place to start flaking it will even flake past the sanded areas. The secret to adhesion is thorough sanding in all, even hard to get, areas.
I now applied 3 coats of High Temp Primer and made sure to use a pattern that kept all areas smooth and well covered. Shooting a frame like this can be difficult especially if you are conscience of "dry spray" areas like around the bottom bracket and inside the frame rails where they are brazed together. It's a skill and an art.
Next I sanded the whole frame and then I taped off the areas that I wanted to keep black. This is a three stage paint system with two base colors and then a final clear coat applied over everything. I used to paint cars for a living and even spent some time painting conversion vans for Tre-Tech. Some of the vans were as many as 15 colors with pin stripe painted on and then the entire job covered with clear-coat. I loved the craft but I hated working for a dealership lol.
At this point the exposed areas were then ready for the second color coat. I used blue metallic. With the clear the blue looks an inch deep and it has a very cool pearl effect to it. Looking directly at it the paint looks like blue metallic but looking across the surface gives off a purple hue. In direct sunlight this color system is stunning and looks very deep without applying a lot of material. If you apply too much paint after it dries it can crack and peel off. Another trade secret is less is more. Apply as little as possible to get the most durable and lasting paint surface possible. I applied the blue and allowed this to dry overnight. The next day I removed the taped off sections to reveal both the blue and black areas. At this point I applied 3 coats of clear to all areas of the frame.
I allowed the final stage to dry over night and the next day it was hot and sunny so I hung the frame outside in the sun to slow bake all day.
What looks like dust in the last picture is actually the sheen of the clear coat. This system shines like standing water and the pictures do not do the actual system justice. It has to be seen to really appreciate the actual color and depth this system is capable of.
I actually wanted to do a little more detail work to the frame but after careful consideration I decided to put the accents on the crankset, covers and chain guard so it wouldn't be "too" much.
I used black accents on the dropouts, seat post and front fork tube. I covered the bottom bracket inner threads with tape so they wouldn't be loaded up with paint when I went back in to replace them. I also covered any areas that would house bearings or threads for the parts that would be put back on after the paint system cured.
These areas remained covered with tape throughout the entire process to ensure a nice fit when the parts were re-installed.
There is actually a lot more to write about because now I have started putting it all back together after letting the paint system cure for 3 days. I have painted the accent parts and put them on. I have also painted the handlebars, cleaned and tuned the shifters, purchased a new seat and post and purchased a cable tune up kit. The problem is I need a pair of matching rims. Any 26" front disc and/or rear 7 speed wheels would work. I have looked at rims and wheels online and just can't justify spending $400-$4k on a set of wheels so I am looking for donations or as cheap as possible wheel sets for this bike. If you know of anyone or if you have an old pair of rims you would like to get rid of please instant message or private message me.
Also, if you are interested in restoring or custom finishing your rig hit me up. I have some time and need the work. I refinish any type of surface wether it is steel, aluminium, zinc or carbon fiber. I have custom paint systems that can be used to ensure a long lasting and durable paint surface for your bike and do custom airbrush and decal work as well. I can put a system on your bike that is better than the one on your car. So, get at me!
Questions, comments and critics welcome.
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Thread: Mongoose Masher
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