Results 1 to 20 of 20
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    12

    Just bought a Mongoose Teocali Comp 2010!

    I absolutely love this bike, it makes me speechless. It has greatly exceeded my expectations and I greatly exceeded my own expectations on it the first day. Absolutely love it!!! It feels amazing.
    Previous bike was a Scott yecora hardtail, which I had for many years.

    I'll upload a proper pic when I get her cleaned up a bit!

    To see what components it has, click 'specs' Mongoose Teocali Comp

    THINGS TO BUY / UPGRADE: recommendations?
    * Front shock. I'd like to have a lockoff function like the super has. (currently only have a red adjuster and an air valve)
    * Rear shock: would like a lockoff switch
    * Front tyre: What do you think of those massive 2.5" tyres for the front?
    * Rear suspension bearings (have play). What type of bearings are they? Are they like ABEC1 skateboard/rollerblade bearings? Can I replace them myself? I like to get my hands dirty
    * Dust covers for shocks. Can I get such things? where?

    Thinking of doing a long trip on this bike, besides getting all the bearings, shocks, brakes serviced, would you recommend anything else? And for spares and tools... thinking of the basic stuff pump, tubes, pliers, wire cutter, spare cable, chain link tool, allenkeys/screw drivers? I suppose that deserves a separate post.

    Anyway, Hi!
    Last edited by Lope; 03-10-2011 at 07:49 AM.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    12


    I contacted SR Santour, Bernhard has been very helpful. When he gets my reply he'll probably know exactly which model, and hopefully send me the service manual. I'm going to service the front shock myself, then just remove the rear shock, and take it to a bike shop.
    I'm gonna pull all the bearings out and replace the worn ones myself as well.
    I've asked him if theres some component I can use to get remote lock on my front shock.

  3. #3
    What?
    Reputation: mullen119's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    3,245
    I think you may have a 2008. The 2010 doesnt have suntour parts and the picture you posted is of a 2008.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    12
    Yes, you're spot on. The guy I bought it from said it was 10 months old, but it was probably sitting in the shop or he was understating its age. All good.

    The SR Santour guy replied...
    the pictures make it clear now.

    The fork is a SF 8 Epicon DA (2008) with max travel 140mm (the space between dust seals and crown might be a little more). The rear shoch is a RS 8 Epicon DA.

    The manuals are attached.

    It´s possible to upgrade the fork to a remote lockout. Therefor you would need the oil Cartridge (90.-‚), the RL Unit on top (60.-‚) and the remote lever (30.-‚). Considering the forks price of 250.-‚ the change of parts is quite expensive though.
    Looks like I'll just swap the whole shock for something better at some point.

    REAR SHOCK
    Busy reading the Rear shock manual. It says something about setting the sag level and how to measure how much travel is available. But it doesn't tell you how much travel you should try achieve...
    It just says max 20.7bar or 300 PSI. Is that max inflating pressure, or max pressure it can hit during compression?
    eye-to-eye
    length Travel SAG in %
    165mm 38mm 15% - 20%
    190mm 50mm 20% - 25%
    200mm 55mm 20% - 25%

    FRONT SHOCK
    Travel SAG in % SAG in mm
    80mm 15% - 20% 12mm - 16mm
    100mm 15% - 20% 15mm - 20mm
    120mm 15% - 20% 18mm - 24mm
    140mm 20% - 25% 28mm- 35mm

    How can 80mm and 120mm be the same amount of sag?

    Of course I can't service the rear shock, but I'd like to service the front shock. Do you literally just unbolt it, take it apart, wash it all with a degreaser, oil it and put it back together?
    The manual I have doesn't describe how to service it.
    They said theres no service manual, they don't want to get sued.
    But here are a bunch of service videos on their site.

    I'll check out the vids. If you have any other good info on fork servicing, let me know.
    Last edited by Lope; 03-10-2011 at 07:32 AM.

  5. #5
    What?
    Reputation: mullen119's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    3,245
    I have the same bike, but nothing on it is stock. I would change the rear shock before anything else. the SR suntour rear shock is junk. I wasnt impressed with the fork either, but it works good enough.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    12
    This is how far I've gotten. All the rods are out, everything that can be disassembled is disassembled, except the cranks.
    I don't have a crank pulling tool, so I couldn't get them off. The smallest front gear won't get out the way so I can't access 2 bearings at the bottom.


    Do you have any tips for getting the suspension bearings out?
    So far I've thought of a hot hair dryer to get the frame to expand a bit. WD40/Q20, and continuing trying hammer them out.
    How hard should you hit them?
    I basically put something against the bearing, then put a rod through the other bearing, and hit the rod to push the bearing on the other side out.

    What shock did you get?

  7. #7
    What?
    Reputation: mullen119's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    3,245
    I use a 8mm allen wrench and place it on the back side of the bearings, Then smack the allen wrench with a hammer. You can hit it pretty hard with no issues. To put the new bearings in, put them in place(along with the part of the frame you are pressing them into), put the bolts through and tighten the bolts slowly to press the bearings into place. You NEED a torque wrench AND lock tite to properly reassemble the bike. If you dont have them, buy them. Other wise you will have several issues.

    The bottom bracket linkage bearings are the most prone to damage if not installed properly. They are size 688 and you should use enduro max bearings to help them last longer.

    http://www.mongoose.com/usa/usaeng/mtn/tech tells you the proper torquing for all the frame bolts. Again, it is very important that they are torqued correctly.

    As for your fork, The damper is in a sealed, un-serviceable cartridge. The only maintenance you can really do to it is to take the lowers off, clean them out, and put a very small amount of oil into the lowers for splash lubrication. When you put the oil in the lowers, do so with the lowers already reinstalled, but not yet bolted down. Add the oil through the bolt holes with a syringe. Other wise its very messy. Keep all oil as far from the brakes as possible.

    The reason the sag amounts are listed as the same is because they are listed as a percent of the total travel. 20% of 80mm is about 3/4 of an inch of sag while 20% of 120mm is about 1 1/4 inches of sag.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Iridethedirt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    586
    enduromax bearings can be found here:

    www.enduroforkseals.com


    I ride a Khyber, and just made a bunch of custom spacers, let me know if you have slop in your BB link pivots, if so, some simple measurements and i might have properly sized spacers for you, fresh off the lathe a few hours ago. let me know how it goes, and check out the other threads in this forum regarding BB link pivot bearings, and my khyber bb link pivot rebuild. its the same parts list.
    Nice buy. between mullen and I you'll probably not encounter something one of us hasnt already dealt with, so we should be able to help you out quite a bit.

    Go buy a crank puller, they are like 15 bucks or so, and quite nessicary to work on the suspension linkage of these bikes.

    I find that using the bolts to press in the bearings works well, but i honestly opt for using a socket with an extension and a hammer, and carefully tap them into place. gotta be careful to make sure you're only allowing pressure to be placed on the outer race of the bearing when doing this. the best option is a bearing press, you can buy a really nice one on the same site i linked above for suspension bearings.

    The larger bearings on the frame, are 6000 2RS bearings, replace them with enduro "max" bearings as well, they are the best suspension linkage bearings on the market, and they are cheap, you can buy a full set of pivot bearings for your bike for under 40 dollars shipped. i also reccomend buying the Rock N Roll super coat grease for suspension linkage assembly while you're at it.

    A good budget option for a good fork for that bike would be a rockshox tora. good bang for the buck. for amazing deals on rear shocks, look to X fusion, contact me if you would like the contact info of one of their sales reps, he's great and will help you out. any of their "02" air shocks would be great, I have an 02RL on my Khyber, and its excellent.

    enjoy rocking that bike my friend.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    12
    Thanks for that info my goose brothers! Awesome!!!

    I'm in South Africa. Shipping very reasonable on that site, $11, but I'll see if I can source the enduro max bearings locally.

    I'll look into buying another shock later. Thanks for all those recommendations I'm first gonna get this bike rocking.
    When they quote max pressure on the fork, is that inflated pressure at rest?

    Will this crank puller work for me?

    Where can I buy a cheap torque wrench?
    Everything I've seen $180 up.
    If I use a bar thats 1m long and my digital luggage scale (1-40kg, 0.1kg resolution) I can probably get fairly accurate Newton meter measurements
    Its kind of perfect cos most things on a bike must be between about 1 and 25Nm.

    I got 2 of the bearings out (one big one small)
    The big one I hammered out of the rocker arm with a bolt/nut/washer/piece of rubber while holding it in mid air. I was not comfortable knocking the bearing (which was stuck to the frame) so hard.
    The small one I got out with a bolt/nut/washer/piece of pipe/plate with a hole, pulled it out. That was easy once it was set up, but very fiddly.
    I'm just gonna take the shock in today, and will get other parts next week.
    Gonna get some better sized bolts and pipes and stuff to make it easier to pull the bearings out.
    Last edited by Lope; 03-11-2011 at 06:51 AM.

  10. #10
    What?
    Reputation: mullen119's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    3,245
    You should be able to find a torque wrench for about 30 dollars. You only need a 1/4'' drive that measures up to 200 in/lbs.

    http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Quality-20.../dp/B000I7ZDN4

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    12
    Unfortunately that wrench got a lot of bad reviews. I'd probably only go for something digital.

  12. #12
    What?
    Reputation: mullen119's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    3,245
    Im not saying to buy that particular one(although it has twice as many good reviews as bad reviews), But you dont need to spend 150 bucks on a wrench you will only use a few times a year at best. If it was a 3/8'' or 1/2'' drive that you would get more use out of, I would say to make sure you get a good one. I got mine at a local hardware store for 21 bucks and it has worked fine for what I use it for.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    12
    mullen: yeah, I agree. gonna go for some kinda hack.

    Iridethedirt: Which X-fusion did you have in mind?

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    12
    Got all the bearings out, installed new bearings beautifully. I'd rather only strip the bike every 3 years than every year if I can, so I've covered the suspension parts in plastic
    I didn't do a full shock service, but I took the stanchions out and cleaned the sand out of the first few inches. I tried pulling the rubbers out with a lot of force, but they wouldn't budge, so I just left them in there and cleaned them as is. Theres a big pocket of grease and sand that collects behind the dust covers, I cleaned this out and re-greased.
    You can see my first attempt at making a big jig failed, because I constructed it by chiseling the wood because I didn't have a big enough hole saw. then I got a 28mm hole saw and sorted it out nicely.
    I've greased everything up nicely so its all easy to take apart again.
    I've replaced the cables and housings with jagwire ripcord teflon coated. I've done it continuous from the shifter to the derailleurs so no sand gets inside them.
    I find a standard cheap bicycle pump can't make enough pressure to pump up the front shock :/ need to see where I can buy a decent one.
    I also found the derailleur was not bolted on properly, (why it was hopping gears), also found too many spacers were used under the stem so it was hanging off the fork tube a bit, and the inside of the stem was cracked.

    How do I remove play from the brakes? (you have to squeeze the handle quite far before they kick in)






    Last edited by Lope; 03-24-2011 at 06:04 AM.

  15. #15
    What?
    Reputation: mullen119's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    3,245
    I like the jig you made to pull the bearings in and out of the frame. Very innovative! Buy yourself a shock pump to put air in the fork and shock. You cant use a regular bike pump for a few different reasons.

    How about a pic of it all together?

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    12
    Thanks mate!
    Those jigs pull the bearings out with ease, without putting strain on the frame
    I mean you've got to crank the spanner and screw driver hard (with inner tube wrapped around it for grip), but it comes out quick and easy


    I went down to the petrol station and pumped the front shock, (with great care) but the rear shock was too high pressure for the air supply, so I went to a bike shop to get it pumped up.
    Pretty stoked. I just need to reposition the front derailer about 20mm lower.

    I haven't even been for a ride yet! All I've done is gone down the road to the gas station!
    Afterwards I was doing some bunny hops with my new cleats and shoes... So cool!!! Its such a new feeling, you've got to bounce down to compress the shocks then jump up and pull the bike up with your feet.
    I'm a little nervous to try wheelies with the cleats, I was just doing small ones. I'm gonna go to a field to get used to unclipping while falling

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    3

    hi

    hi lope, i have just registered on this forum today 1st may 2011, and saw your thread.I to own a goose teocali comp, which i have just recently bought, and like you think it is excellent. I will be interested to see what mods you make to your bike, purely out of curiousity, but i think i wil leave mine pretty much as it is, well apart from getting some proper bars stuck on it, keep in touch,by the way i am form the UK slough nr london
    all the best
    dave

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    41
    nice bike upper range field.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    3
    Is it safe to use 180mm travel fork on this frame?

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    8
    Did you buy a whole bearing kit or you just bought it individually?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •