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  1. #1
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    4Banger/Straight6 parts

    Still searching for the right frame but i wonder:

    -do both frames 4banger/straight6(yellow01) share the same exact rear??

    I mean if the carbon and alu arm have the same dimmensions and can be chaged among frames?

    -If so, does this also happen no matter the size? i mean straight6 sizes are 16-18-20 while 4bangers are 17-19-21.

  2. #2
    CTB
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    To the best of my knowledge, yes, they share rear triangles. The chainstay length was the same no matter what frame size you have. Parts are interchangeable between "early" and "late" 4-Bangers as well - the swing arms with the pinch bolts work on the bikes that didn't have them originally. The rear dropouts are all the same functionally as well; the late 4B's and yellow Straight 6's have the black magnesium dropouts with 51mm IS disc attachments, while the earlier Bangers had bare aluminum ones with 22mm Hayes mounts on them.

  3. #3
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    What he said ^

  4. #4
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    Thanks, i prefer a straight6 but a banger will be ok too.

    So knowing that the rear part is interchangable I just got a frame with a broken main pivot, (i do not think it is reparable, take a look and leave opinions), that will provide extra parts for the rear arm if needed in the future when i get the right frame.

    2 pics with the broken main pivot, it seems that the owner broke it while tightening it too much, not while riding.




    So still in the hunt!!

  5. #5
    CTB
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    I don't know that those frames had bolts to tighten on the frame at that area. My 2000 4-Banger frame is VERY different from my 99 Homegrown frame. The 2000 has no pinch bolts of any kind, anywhere on the frame. The Homegrown has two pinch bolts at each frame pivot, plus the pinch bolts on the swingarm. There were spacers that Schwinn made to put into the gap you see on the swingarm to prevent over-tightening from breaking the arm.

    Is the bike in these pictures yours, Lamparito? I've never seen one with the black rear lower swingarm, which I always wanted.

  6. #6
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    Yes, i bought it yesterday in Germany for about 70 for spares. Not sure about the exact year of this frame yet, and had not noticed the difference in color of the lower swing arm.
    After reading here that all rear part are common i just bought it.

    Whay do you think about the crack: is it reparable? maybe cutting it off and welding a new specially produced CNC piece or something. If not i will ask the seller to ship only the rear part and trash the front.

  7. #7
    CTB
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    That frame should be a 99 non-Homegrown frame, the only year that I know of with the black swingarm and aluminum rear dropouts.

    I can't say if you can fix the lower pivot or not, but I would get the frame just in case and continue to look for an expert welder for aluminum. It might be more trouble than it is worth to fix, but I'm not a welder and can't say for sure. What size frame are you looking for?

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    Is there any difference apart from the black color among 4bangers rear ends (not counting pitch bolts pivots or not)?? I thought all dropout were made in aluminium.
    I have been told today about this one that it's reparable in various ways by expert guys (do not know the price of the repair or if will be worth it as you say)

    I am looking for a straight6 18" or in case it's a 4 banger i still doubt about 17" or 19" (i think 19" thaks to your post froma few days ago to my question in this forum).

  9. #9
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    Yes, there are differences. As I outlined above, the 2000 and newer models had lighter dropouts that were painted black and had 51mm IS brake mounts; Schwinn chose to then put an adapter on them to allow the use of 22mm Hayes calipers. I have both kinds of bikes, and the later black dropouts are lighter than the earlier bare aluminum ones by a few grams. It's also a lot easier to mount a modern rear brake on them since they have the 51mm IS mounting tabs. Other than this, they are the same as far as functionality.



    Good to hear that the experts think your frame is repairable.

  10. #10
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    Ok, now i see
    I still do not know what to do, will let you know about the price of the repair.... if not it wil be a spare parts bike just in case

    By the way...just got a Manitou Dorado to match the straight6 i am going nuts

  11. #11
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    The black rear links are made of magnesium. (sorry i didn'r read more into the above post) The 6061 homegrown frames seem to be the most durable. Chris has the holy grail of 4-bangers -- Homegrown front triangle, newer rear with no pinch bolts and mag drop-outs and that trick fox float set-up. The Homegrown Sweetspots are indestructable (I've always liked the carbon too). Don't know too much about welding 7005 aluminum and if it needs heat treating or not. That area is under a-lot of stress and if it cracked once when it was one piece.... It may be worth a shot, though, to get you out on the trails and It seems good frames are becomming harder to find (especially because Chris keeps buying them up). I bought a parts frame of that year in black, and it was cracked all over (2 long cracks at the upper swing arm pivot welds and lower shock mounts). Wound up selling the rear seperately and now have the front triangle as a reminder of an e-bay buy gone bad. (did get some money back from the seller, and a welder did say he could heli-arc some of the cracks, but mine had pinch bolts on the front triange and they were cracked too (can't really weld those)
    Last edited by joemamad; 03-30-2009 at 05:44 PM.

  12. #12
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    Do the pre-2000 Bangers have pinch bolts on the frame, other than the ones on the chainstay? I seem to recall they do, but I can't prove it. I don't have pictures of those.

    And hey - I only buy the good frames I can find. I should have bought the 16" Straight 6 frame I saw a while ago before I lost my job. Oh well.

  13. #13
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    Today i searched among the 100+ mtb magazines from the old days i had in one closet and found an in depth review of a 99 banger!!!
    By the way it praises the frame but for its weight and the fact that the rear suspension is not 100% independent from braking and pedaling (i thought it was independent or as close as it could be)

    I am learnign a lot from you guys. One more question:
    can i find easily a 22mmHayes to IS adaptor so as to use another disc brake?

  14. #14
    CTB
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    Lamparito, is there any way you can scan that article? I'd love to see it! As for the gripe about independent braking: The 4-Banger does not have a floating brake, so it isn't 100% independent. Now, I'm no pro rider, so I have never noticed any issues at all with my bike's braking abilities. But again, I'm an aggressive in-the-seat XC rider, so maybe people who ride harder notice this. I have no issues with mine at all, but then again I was coming off my Schwinn Sweetspot for 9 years before I got this bike...

    The 22-to-IS adapters are hard to find. However, I believe there is one on Ebay right now with a US seller, though they appear to ship internationally. Note that I *think* this is what you need - what I have on my bike is the opposite/mirror image of this piece, so I think this is exactly what you'd need. Hell, I'm tempted to buy it for myself.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=370181125295

    These are not common and difficult to find. In the last year, I've seen three total. And 22mm Hayes brakes are going for ridiculous money - there is one on Ebay right now with a buy-it-now of $169! Insane.
    Last edited by CTB; 03-30-2009 at 06:54 PM.

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    Sure, i can scan it, no problem... but is is written in Spanish let me know if you want it.

    the link is for a IS to 22mmhayes, just the opposite of what i look for. In principle i want to use hope brakes

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by lamparito
    Sure, i can scan it, no problem... but is is written in Spanish let me know if you want it.

    the link is for a IS to 22mmhayes, just the opposite of what i look for. In principle i want to use hope brakes
    tha buy it now hayes you talk about are new? both front&rear for that price?

    by the way i think you are right about the pinch bolts before 00 but i cannot tell for sume, my frame did not arive yet :-)
    Last edited by lamparito; 03-30-2009 at 07:32 PM.

  17. #17
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    The Black POS
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  18. #18
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    wow...
    the guys that told me that it is reparable told me about welding it in diferent ways, but it mainly consisted as far as i understadn it into welding a inner or outside cilinder of the broken piece after some CNC on it. Or building a complete new CNC piece directly soas to weldge it afterwards

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by lamparito
    Sure, i can scan it, no problem... but is is written in Spanish let me know if you want it.

    the link is for a IS to 22mmhayes, just the opposite of what i look for. In principle i want to use hope brakes
    Sure, I'd still like to see it. I don't know much Spanish at all, but it would still be interesting to see the article. Thanks!

    The item in the link is the mirror image of what I have on my bike; what I have on my bike converts 51mm IS to 22 mm Hayes, as you see in the picture I posted above. So the ebay item appears to convert 22 mm Hayes ("parallel") to 51 mm IS, which would be what you need. I assume the Hope brakes use a modern 74 mm post mount or 51 mm IS mount. Compare the pictures and see what you think. As I said, I'm tempted to get this part so that I can adapt my other 4-Banger parts to modern brakes, as needed.

    Joe, that's some serious cracking there. Later today I'll take some pictures of my 2000 frame to show how there are no pinch bolts at all on it.

  20. #20
    CTB
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    Quote Originally Posted by lamparito
    tha buy it now hayes you talk about are new? both front&rear for that price?
    You don't need front and rear. The front will be whatever fork you decide to use - any modern fork has 51mm IS or 74mm post mounts on them (be careful of 1999-2000 Manitous, as many of them had 69mm post mount which is only adaptable by going with larger (180mm) rotors). So you only need one adapter for the rear of the bike.

    Here are some pics of my frame. I'm glad we had this thread - it turns out it is cracking at one of the welds.
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    Last edited by CTB; 03-31-2009 at 05:24 AM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by CTB
    You don't need front and rear. The front will be whatever fork you decide to use - any modern fork has 51mm IS or 74mm post mounts on them (be careful of 1999-2000 Manitous, as many of them had 69mm post mount which is only adaptable by going with larger (180mm) rotors). So you only need one adapter for the rear of the bike.

    Here are some pics of my frame. I'm glad we had this thread - it turns out it is cracking at one of the welds.
    I do not see the crack but will also ask here if that kind of crack (different to mine) can be repaired too. I hope so...

  22. #22
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    This is waiting for the right frame... hope they will get along well :-)



  23. #23
    CTB
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    That seems like a lot of fork for a 4-Banger. The one I bought had a 120mm Manitou Supernova on it, and that's really a heavy fork for just a 4" travel bike like the Banger. No reason why you can't use it, though! I'm just saying it is a very stout fork. What kind of brake attachment does that fork have?

    The cracks on my red frame are just starting right at the welds below the main pivot. My buddy has a TIG welder and we're going to try and fix it.

  24. #24
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    `Both of my red ones like yours, Chris, have cracks at the weld on one side where the upper pivot mount piece meets the curved tube. Both are/were 1/4" long at the bottum of the weld. These never got any bigger over the 2 years I had them both and I'm still riding the one. I removed the paint so I could monitor it. "First Class"
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  25. #25
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    Boy, does that picture look familiar!

    Good to know they didn't progress. I might still have my buddy throw some TIG action on it.

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