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  1. #1
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    08 Otero Questions

    I just picked up an Otero Super today and I've been out riding around a bit and just generally testing things out before I get this thing out on a real trail. Everything seems to be running smoothly so for except a couple small things. First off I get some ghost shifting every so often. After shifting to my next gear the chain will lock onto it's next gear and things will be fine, then I'll go to put some more pedal pressure down to pick up speed and sometimes it'll just click into a different random gear. I'm assuming this is a derailer adjustment of some sort.

    Also, I can't get the chain to grab onto the largest gear on the cassette while it's on the smallest front cog, effectively locking out the lowest crawling gear. When I click it over it'll try to grab for a bit and then slip half way off the gear and just continue to slip...the guy at performance alluded to this being somewhat normal due to sideways chain flex/bind, but I figured I'd come here and poke around a bit to get some second opinions.

    The front tire also has a slight wobble to it when I look down on it while riding and the brakes also rub slightly on every revolution. Will this slight, but irritating rubbing go away with brake pad wear as my sales person said it would, or is there some adjusting that needs to be done? And how about the tire wobble?

    So does my bike seem like it's operating normally, or does it sound like some fine tuning is needed?

    Any help is much appreciated.

  2. #2
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    It sounds like simple adjustment issues. Your wheel is out of true and the limit and or tension of your rear derailer is incorrect.

    The brake rub may or may not ever go away, and may or may not be an adjustment issue. 99% of rotors are not perfectly true. This can be adjusted to a degree, but it's not unusual to get noise from the rotors.

  3. #3
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    Sounds like you got one of the great Performance assembly jobs.

    The first shifting issue you are describing sounds like it's a cable tension issue.

    The second shifting issue sounds like the Low limit isn't adjusted properly.

    If the front tire has a wobble, it could be that the tire wasn't installed correctly, or the front rim is out of true.

    The disc rubbing may go away if you align the caliper (loosen the caliper bolts, hold the brake and re-tighten the bolts while holding the brake). However you may still get some slight rubbing if the rotor is not 100% true, and you may get some rubbing from wheel flex while riding.

    I got myself the same bike as a spare bike not long ago since Performance had a good price on them. You can drop 1.5 pounds off the bike weight if you get some light tires and pedals. I also swapped out the fork and mine weighs 31.5 pounds now, down from 34.5 pounds stock.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the help guys. I figured that it was a Performance assembly issue, but I wanted to be certain.

    Upon further inspection today after a 10 mile ride around town I noticed the that the front brake assembly was loose. The bolts had backed out a bit and one was backed out enough to have enough pressure on it to bend it slightly. So I screwed them back in but the bent one wont cinch down all the way, so now the front brake rubs a lot more than it did before. None of this bike was assembled with loc-tite btw.

    I'm glad I took the time to ride this thing on the road before I trailed it. I can only imagine what would have shaken loose on even a mild trail.

    As far as upgrade parts go I was planning on getting some better pedals in the future as well as upgrading to a Tora 318 Solo.
    My friend also said that he didnt care for the quick release assemblies on the front and rear tires. Are these worth upgrading?

  5. #5
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    You should be able to find a replacement bolt at a hardware store, or take it into Performance and have them take care of it. Just make sure you get one of their better mechanics to look at it.

    Regarding things to upgrade on that bike, here is my list in:

    1) The fork, the Tora 289 is really heavy and is lacking adjustments for different weight riders (other than buying a new spring). On mine I got a Marzocchi MX Pro LO that I got at Performance on closeout.

    2) The tires are really heavy. If you get some lighter tires, you can drop a pound of rolling weight off the bike, which will make a huge difference in making the bike feel lighter.

    3) The pedals could use upgrading to clipless pedals, or some better platforms. I'm using Forte carve's for clipless, and Wellgo MG-1 for platforms.

    The quick releases were perfectly fine for me. I don't think that would be a worthy upgrade. I would upgrade the seat, seat post and handlebars before the QR skewers.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldskoolbiker
    You should be able to find a replacement bolt at a hardware store, or take it into Performance and have them take care of it. Just make sure you get one of their better mechanics to look at it.

    Regarding things to upgrade on that bike, here is my list in:

    1) The fork, the Tora 289 is really heavy and is lacking adjustments for different weight riders (other than buying a new spring). On mine I got a Marzocchi MX Pro LO that I got at Performance on closeout.

    2) The tires are really heavy. If you get some lighter tires, you can drop a pound of rolling weight off the bike, which will make a huge difference in making the bike feel lighter.

    3) The pedals could use upgrading to clipless pedals, or some better platforms. I'm using Forte carve's for clipless, and Wellgo MG-1 for platforms.

    The quick releases were perfectly fine for me. I don't think that would be a worthy upgrade. I would upgrade the seat, seat post and handlebars before the QR skewers.

    Which bars would you recommend to replace the stockers? Some mid rise bars perhaps?
    As far as the pedals go I'll be sticking with flats for now, so I'll look into a lighter set of flats.

    What do you think of the tora 318 solo? From most of the reviews I've seen people seem to like that fork.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BullDog71ss
    Which bars would you recommend to replace the stockers? Some mid rise bars perhaps?
    As far as the pedals go I'll be sticking with flats for now, so I'll look into a lighter set of flats.

    What do you think of the tora 318 solo? From most of the reviews I've seen people seem to like that fork.
    I like Easton and Sunline bars myself. Yeah the 318 should be a pretty good choice.

  8. #8
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    Cool, thanks for the help.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by BullDog71ss
    I just picked up an Otero Super today and I've been out riding around a bit and just generally testing things out before I get this thing out on a real trail. Everything seems to be running smoothly so for except a couple small things. First off I get some ghost shifting every so often. After shifting to my next gear the chain will lock onto it's next gear and things will be fine, then I'll go to put some more pedal pressure down to pick up speed and sometimes it'll just click into a different random gear. I'm assuming this is a derailer adjustment of some sort.

    Also, I can't get the chain to grab onto the largest gear on the cassette while it's on the smallest front cog, effectively locking out the lowest crawling gear. When I click it over it'll try to grab for a bit and then slip half way off the gear and just continue to slip...the guy at performance alluded to this being somewhat normal due to sideways chain flex/bind, but I figured I'd come here and poke around a bit to get some second opinions.

    The front tire also has a slight wobble to it when I look down on it while riding and the brakes also rub slightly on every revolution. Will this slight, but irritating rubbing go away with brake pad wear as my sales person said it would, or is there some adjusting that needs to be done? And how about the tire wobble?

    So does my bike seem like it's operating normally, or does it sound like some fine tuning is needed?

    Any help is much appreciated.

    Bulldog, I'm having the the same ghost shifting issue you where describing. Have you found a way to fix it?. I might just take it to Performance and tell them to fix it cause I'm not that good of a bike mechanic to do it myself.

  10. #10
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    My uncle is an old school bike mechanic, so I had him take a look at it. He adjusted one of the screws on the rear derailer and it mostly fixed the chain popping off the largest rear cog. But there is still some slippage on the second largest cog. So it still needs some tinkering.

    I'm positive that the problems can be resolved with some simple tuning though.

  11. #11
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    If it's only skipping in one or two gears, the derailer hanger is probably bent/crooked.

  12. #12
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    On my otero, I had to adjust the High and Low stops, I also had to loosen the cable and re-attach it properly as it wasn't quite in the groove. I think this was affecting the shifting in the larger cogs.

    Basically don't accept any of the settings set by performance, and just re-do everything.

    Here is what to do:
    Put the front in the middle ring
    Loose the rear derailleur cable
    Look at the position of the derailleur from behind, the derailleur and chain should line up perfectly with the smallest cog. If it doesn't use the "H" screw to adjust this position. Clockwiise will move the derailleur in, and counter clockwise will move it out.

    After that is adjusted, actuate the derailleur by hand to the largest cog. Verify the chain and derailleur line up with the largest cog. If it doesn't then use the "L" screw to adjust the position of the derailleur.

    Once you have the stops adjusted, now you can re-attach the cable. Before attaching the cable turn the barrel adjuster on the rear shifter clockwise till it stops. Also make sure the shifter is shifted to the gear #9. Now take the cable and reattach it to the derailleur. Pull the cable as tight as possible by hand and make sure the cable is in the little groove under the tightening bolt.

    Now there may still be a little slack in the cable, so turn the barrel adjuster on the shifter a couple of turns.

    Next start trying to shift. Use the barrel adjuster to fine tune the cable tension till it is shifting smoothly.

    See this article on Park Tool which covers adjusting rear derailleur:
    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64

  13. #13
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    Thanks Oldskoolbiker I'll give it a shot.

  14. #14
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    Thanks. from my end as well.

    I'm so glad Performance are the experts they are...otherwise this would be a PITA...HAH.

  15. #15
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    I also picked up am '08 Otero Super about 8 months ago. It's been ok but nothing great. I got it on sale for a good price at Performance and went for it. I now have it running real good but it took replacing a lot of stuff. I'm running a Rock Shox Revelation 426 dual air fork, Race Face Ride stem, Titec Hellbent Pro Lite bars, ODI Rogue lock on grips, SRAM X-9 shifters and rear derailleur, Shimano SLX cranks and M540 pedals, XTR chain, SDG Bel-Air seat, and Panaracer Fire XC tires. Next is to replace the wheelset but my curreent set-up runs real good. I'd like a new rear shock but I think I'll just get a new frame instead.

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