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  1. #1
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    Talas 36 with ML8 Question

    I have an ML8 with a Talas 36 R on it. My issue is that it makes the bike climbs like garbage because the head angle is so slack on it. I rode my buddies ML8 with a DUC 32 on the front and it was like a totally different bike.

    I usually try to drop my Talas to 130mm for longer climbs but it still feels like I am sitting way back and it doesn't climb well at all. I don't like dropping it to 100mm because the whole bike feels really out of whack. That being said, I love the Talas once I start going downhill so I would like to keep it on there.

    I have a short stem (70mm) and I have on order some high rise handlebars so I sit over the fork a bit more. Does anyone have any other tips?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Schipperkes are cool.
    Reputation: banks's Avatar
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    Mavericks geometry does have more of a back seat over the rear wheel feeling and that will make the front end pop up on the steeps. It does take some new body position to keep the front wheel down on the ground.

    I say crank it down to 100 and climb really fast to get it over with!

    Scoty
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee
    Better suited to non-aggressive 125# gals named Russell.
    I ride so slow, your Garmin will shut off.

  3. #3
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    I guess you could run a slightly longer stem to get more weight over the front. The DUC's climbing mode is a real asset.

    Won't the riser handlebars shift your weight rearward?

    Do you have a Maverick Speedball? I find that dropping it just a little (~1") makes a real difference in weighting the front tires.
    Maverick Durance Ano-DUC32/C KING/XTR
    Mav ML8 Ano-DUC32/X0
    Mav ML8-DUC32/I9/XTR
    09 Spec. Demo-Totem-Ti DHX
    Norco Team DH

  4. #4
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    Well I tried a long stem to start with and that makes the geometry even worse because it turns really slowly with the extra rake added by the fork. The risers should help because right now I am running handlebars that are swept back a bit almost like cruiser handlebars so it should help get me over the front fork more. I do have the speedball but I am worried about knee pain if I drop the seat on climbs. This is starting to sound like I need to get the DUC if I want the maverick climbing ability to work like it should.

  5. #5
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    I had a similar experience with a RS PIKE and a Maverick SC32 fork on my Epiphany. The difference I believe is that the Axle to Crown (A/C) length on the Maverick forks are almost 1 inch less than that of a traditional (FOX, RockShock) fork for a given amount of travel. I found that my Epi's climbing ability with a SC32 fork was superior than with a RS PIKE cranked down to the same amount of travel 125MM. Something not often considered but seems to impact ride characteristics.

    In the end I swapped the Maverick SC32 and Pike between my Maverick Matic and Ellsworth Epiphany leaving the Pike on the Matic & SC32 fork on the Ellsworth and both bikes now ride better. The Matic likes the extra travel and slacker head angle.... The Epi loves the shorter A/C length and climbs better with less front end loft.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by kokothemonkey
    Well I tried a long stem to start with and that makes the geometry even worse because it turns really slowly with the extra rake added by the fork. The risers should help because right now I am running handlebars that are swept back a bit almost like cruiser handlebars so it should help get me over the front fork more. I do have the speedball but I am worried about knee pain if I drop the seat on climbs. This is starting to sound like I need to get the DUC if I want the maverick climbing ability to work like it should.

    Ok, I didn't realize you had bars that were swept back. In that case, any bar w/o as much sweep would probably be a big improvement in weighting the front tire.

    I have 4 DUC's and love them. Like any fork, you'll want to do your research on setting them up correctly for your weight and riding style.

    Do you have the speedball near max extension in the frame? On my Durance (which is a Large) I have the speedball almost at max. On steep climbs I can tell the majority of my weight is over/above the rear axle which makes it feel like I'm wheelying up the hill-which I pretty much am! Dropping the speedball a little and putting the DUC in climbing mode makes a big difference. My non-anno ML8 is an XL so I can run the seatpost lower which should aid in getting me "inside" the wheelbase as opposed to over the rear wheel.
    Maverick Durance Ano-DUC32/C KING/XTR
    Mav ML8 Ano-DUC32/X0
    Mav ML8-DUC32/I9/XTR
    09 Spec. Demo-Totem-Ti DHX
    Norco Team DH

  7. #7
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    Fork

    So, have you looked at the seat position on the bike with the longer A/C?
    As you increase the A/C it will effectively give you a longer top tube. so you might need to just slide the seat forward (might have to run the speedball backwards) This should get the better climbing position. I have found that although the Fox has a longer A/C is has a good bit of sag, make sure to ck that too! The Talas should help you, if it works right (oooh a shot to Fox !!). I've been running a proto 36 DUC for a while now and had to get used to the position, but have made the transition and can climb it all now no problem.
    The DUC 36 has the same A/C as the fox but a bit more travel. Aslo careful on over pressurizing the back to get the better climbing position, that will just kill the feel of the bike, My bike set-up of choice is a Medium ML8, proto DUC36 170mm travel, a proto set-up E-thirteen stem bolted the DUC crown to get 60mm length, Speedball in standard position but saddle slide all the way forward. I'm 5'6" standing tall and 140lb, I like the feel of a longer bike, albeit a bit more difficult to "flick" around. I seem to find that standing tall on the bike and let your legs do the work and not hunch over the bike and use your back helps me, anyway my thoughts!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ethan F
    I've been running a proto 36 DUC for a while now...
    Keep rubbing it in, lol!

    Quote Originally Posted by Ethan F
    Aslo careful on over pressurizing the back to get the better climbing position, that will just kill the feel of the bike...
    If I'm doing alot of climbing, I have found that loosening up the rebound by 2-3 clicks on the rear strut makes a noticeable improvent to an already great climbing platform.


    Quote Originally Posted by Ethan F
    ...a proto set-up E-thirteen stem bolted to the DUC crown to get 60mm length...
    I want one of those too!
    Maverick Durance Ano-DUC32/C KING/XTR
    Mav ML8 Ano-DUC32/X0
    Mav ML8-DUC32/I9/XTR
    09 Spec. Demo-Totem-Ti DHX
    Norco Team DH

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ethan F
    So, have you looked at the seat position on the bike with the longer A/C?
    As you increase the A/C it will effectively give you a longer top tube. so you might need to just slide the seat forward (might have to run the speedball backwards) This should get the better climbing position. I have found that although the Fox has a longer A/C is has a good bit of sag, make sure to ck that too! The Talas should help you, if it works right (oooh a shot to Fox !!). I've been running a proto 36 DUC for a while now and had to get used to the position, but have made the transition and can climb it all now no problem.
    The DUC 36 has the same A/C as the fox but a bit more travel. Aslo careful on over pressurizing the back to get the better climbing position, that will just kill the feel of the bike, My bike set-up of choice is a Medium ML8, proto DUC36 170mm travel, a proto set-up E-thirteen stem bolted the DUC crown to get 60mm length, Speedball in standard position but saddle slide all the way forward. I'm 5'6" standing tall and 140lb, I like the feel of a longer bike, albeit a bit more difficult to "flick" around. I seem to find that standing tall on the bike and let your legs do the work and not hunch over the bike and use your back helps me, anyway my thoughts!
    Yup, that's good advice, I just re-examined this the other day while working on the speedball, I moved the seat all the way forward as far as it will possibly go, plus I got true riser bars, so it should climb better next time I am out. I think I might be a bit overpressurized in the back also because it is a bit harsh. I will report back. Thanks!

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