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  1. #1
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    Strut Damper Tip Needed

    I have the latest damper in my ML8 strut. I changed the oil and am now having a difficult time getting the damper flats anchored by the two set screws at the bottom of the strut. Are there any tips for reliably achieving proper contact between the damper flats and the retension screws?

  2. #2
    Schipperkes are cool.
    Reputation: banks's Avatar
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    Tip the bike front end over so that the Top of the damper is Down, make sure that the damper cartridge is in the seal & contacting the bushings so the oil isn't running out.

    Remove both 4mm allen set screws from the casting so you can see inside.

    Push the damper into the casting until you see the boss go by the hole; a screwdriver helps to pull it down.

    When the boss is below the hole, screw in one of the 4mm allen set screws, make sure to Not crush the oring, a dull blade helps or your fingernail to work the oring into the hole. Now do the same thing to the second set screw.
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee
    Better suited to non-aggressive 125# gals named Russell.

  3. #3
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    Thanks, Banks.

  4. #4
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    Didn't do it!

    As near as I can tell, the strut is properly anchored. However, when I am off the seat and the bike unweights, the strut extends with a resounding clang. That is why I thought the strut was not properly anchored. At this point, I believe that it is. Is there any internal stop mechanism in tha damper that could fail that would produce an impact at the end of the return travel?

  5. #5
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    Is it possible the negative spring came unclipped? I think I recall reading that somewhere on Maverick's Troubleshooting page. How much pressure are you running?

    Just curious, is it necessary to remove the strut to change the oil?

    On my Durance I just laid it on its side (schrader side down) with the schrader valve core removed and compressed the suspension. It appeared that the majority of the oil came out.

    I haven't changed the oil on my ML8 yet, but assumed it would be the same process.
    Maverick Durance Ano-DUC32/C KING/XTR
    Mav ML8 Ano-DUC32/X0
    Mav ML8-DUC32/I9/XTR
    09 Spec. Demo-Totem-Ti DHX
    Norco Team DH

  6. #6
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    I am running 165. Yes-you must remove the strut to change the oil. It is pretty simple on the ML8, especially with all the practice I have been getting lately. The documentation on the website is good. I typically end up changing the oil when the strut does not hold pressure well.

  7. #7
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    Found it. One of the problems described there could be my issue. I have second damper. I will install it and see what happens. Thanks for the tip.

  8. #8
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    Good to hear, keep us updated!
    Maverick Durance Ano-DUC32/C KING/XTR
    Mav ML8 Ano-DUC32/X0
    Mav ML8-DUC32/I9/XTR
    09 Spec. Demo-Totem-Ti DHX
    Norco Team DH

  9. #9
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    Problem solved!

    The problem was the damper. There is an easy test for this problem. When I push down hard on the rear, it springs back rapidly with a loud clunk at the end of the return travel. I switched to the spare damper and repeated the test. It returned slowly and silently. I went for a ride on all kinds of rocks and logs. All was well. I do not know what is wrong with the damper, but it is going in for repair.

    Thanks.

  10. #10
    Schipperkes are cool.
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    Sounds like the IFP has lost it's pressure.
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee
    Better suited to non-aggressive 125# gals named Russell.

  11. #11
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    Banks-you asked for this!

    What is an IFP?

  12. #12
    Schipperkes are cool.
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    Internal Floating Piston.

    The early dampers have a separately charged IFP. If the rear end is 2008 new or have been previously mod'd, the IFP is charged by the rear shock pressure.
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee
    Better suited to non-aggressive 125# gals named Russell.

  13. #13
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    This was a 2008 damper. The frame is 2007. Is there an easy fix? Or do I return it for repair?

  14. #14
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    08 ML8 damper top out

    I think I know this gentleman, Steve? !!
    It was an issue of the top damper sealhead o-ring failure. This caused all of the oil in the damper to be released. This system works on oil stopping the damper from topping out. If missing oil or excessive air inside damper it will allow the system to function poorly. All fixed now! New o-rings...good to go!

  15. #15
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    Thanks Ethan. I look forward to a smooth ride.

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