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  1. #1
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    Speedball / Joplin Fixes

    I was told that I should post this here instead.

    I have heard many people complaining about the slow return of the Maverick SpeedBall and the Crank Brothers Joplin Seat posts. The recommended remedy for this is to run the seat post with the seal head loose. There is one problem with this. If it is loose enough for the air to enter the post when raising it is loose enough to pull in contaminates with the air.

    My experience with the post is not that air is being trapped in the post preventing it from raising as Maverick states. It is that air cannot get back in. The design of the post is such that when compressed the shaft displaces air in the seat tube, forcing it out through the seal. Due to the design of the seal, when you attempt to raise the saddle the vacuum created forces the seal to seal tighter preventing air from gaining access to the seat tube. This is a theory I have tested with a bit of soapy water. This is also the reason we all suffer poor performance after a particularly wet ride.

    My cure for this is a simple one. Many of you may remember the old ZYZYX forks built by Hanabrink many years ago, they suffered from a similar problem, and this is where I borrowed my idea from.

    First you must start by removing the upper part of the post ( stantion ) from the lower post ( seat tube ). To do so is very simple; first you need to unscrew the seal head from the seat tube making sure that is is fully removed. Second using a ten mm socket on the end of a short extension unscrew the nut on the bottom of the post. This will allow you to remove the stantion from the seat tube.

    Next is the actual fix; Start by thourghouly cleaning the seat tube. Next will require a long 1/16 in drill bit. In the bottom of the seat tube you will notice a silver base plate that the stantion was secured to earlier. You will be drilling a 1/16" hole in this base plate. You will want to drill this hole halfway between the wall of the post and the hole in the middle that the stantion secures to.

    Now this cure is best for those of you that ride a bike with out an interupted seat tube. Those of you that do run a greater risk of sucking contamants into the system through this hole. If you do have an interupted seat tube you can reduce that risk by securing a piece of sponge in the bottom of the post to act as a filter preventing contamants from entering the bottom of the post.

    Reasembly; is the opposite of dissasembly. Make sure all parts are thoroughly cleaned and lubbed with a light petroleam based grease.

    This modification allows air to escape and enter the seatpost through this small hole in the bottom. Maverick no Crank Brothers allowed for air movement within the system.

  2. #2
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    3mm drill bit. I've been doing that for 6 months now. No more then 80psi!
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee
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    I ride so slow, your Garmin will shut off.

  3. #3
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    Thomson seat post comes with a perfect piece of foam on the clamp to keep it together during shipping. This is the perfect foam to shove into the bottom, to keep crud out!
    I've been doing this since day one, it was a thought for Crank,s but didn't seem to make into the production, don't know why, oh well! Good upgrade and easy to do-

  4. #4
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    Thanks for posting this here ramelzer. I knew these guys would be able to chime in on this.

    Thanks for the tip!
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  5. #5
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    How are you guys keeping the foam from falling out the bottom?

  6. #6
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    Ty, It most likley will not go anywhere, but I made a nice plastic bottom with a pocket in the inside for the foam and a small hole, that piece is help in by a o-ring and groove in the plastic ring. But a cap plug would work or something like cardboard tube end.
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    Nice. Hole drilled. Looking for foam now. Good thread BTW.

  8. #8
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    A new unused sponge works fine just cut a little larger than the bottom of the seatpost and it will stay on its own

  9. #9
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    are the clamps on the new CB joplins webbed (like a ducks foot)?

    my maverick speedball clamps (2 prongs) keep splaying even when initially tightened *just* enough to hold the seat properly - when they have splayed they are next to useless.

    if the new CB clamps are webbed (and stronger) is there an upgrade path (planned)?

    ragetty
    Last edited by ragetty; 08-03-2013 at 11:49 AM.

  10. #10
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    As long as your using standard 7mm rail saddle, the Maverick clamps work just fine. Bontrager has used this system for years! All the parts MUST be greased to work correctly, including treads and inside of "fingers". They will not "splay" if assemble correctly and greased. Torque to 120-150in/lb.
    The new CB clamps will retro fit and are quite a bit beefier! They must be used with new inner conical holders. Call CB for these.

  11. #11
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    well, (i thought) i did all that, but they still splay ...

    i guess i'll have to try again ...

    ragetty
    Last edited by ragetty; 08-03-2013 at 11:49 AM.

  12. #12
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    I've got a new problem; I'll see if I can get a reply here first. Today on probably only my fifth ride on my Joplin it started creeping down on the ride. As I'd climb and bounce my body weight on it it'd slip down and I'd have to unweight and push the release lever (remote) to get it back up. It made a difficult ride infinitely more difficult.

    I made sure the lever didn't have any tension on the cable on the trail. Nope, no difference after adjusting the barrel on the remote all the way in. When I got home I held in the release lever and cycled the post up and down to try to get any possible air bubbles worked out, no difference. Finally, I loosened up the (orange on the Joplin) circular seal, pushed down the post and tightened up the seal again, released it, tested it and still no dice (those last two ideas straight out of the manual).

    Anyone have any ideas? The post works fine dropping and popping up when I hit the release lever but inches it's way down riding.
    "I'll disintegrate over time if I expect my body to try to keep up with my mind" -BM

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  13. #13
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    is the saddle contacting the cable anchor bolt when you bounce on it? Some saddles sit low and will hit. Use a pan head bolt and set the actuator arm so it the furthest away.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ethan F
    is the saddle contacting the cable anchor bolt when you bounce on it? Some saddles sit low and will hit. Use a pan head bolt and set the actuator arm so it the furthest away.
    Ethan to the rescue! Thanks for the recommendation, I'll go check that. That's the first thing that came to mind as it just slowly sneaks it's way down when I bounce my butt on the saddle.
    "I'll disintegrate over time if I expect my body to try to keep up with my mind" -BM

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  15. #15
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    Yeah that happened to me. I just adjusted the actuator arm to a different angle.
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  16. #16
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    Yup, upon visual examination that's the problem. I was on the right track on the trail but hadn't though so far as the saddle flexing into the acutator. I'll have to look at it and try to figure out how to adjust the arm's angle.Good ol' Occam's Razor, the simplest solution was the proper one.
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  17. #17
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    I've read through a bunch of these Speedball fix threads and the stuff on the Maverick site but haven't seen the solution for this problem.

    I have about 1/2" of up/down movement at the top of the stroke that acts like a mini-suspenionsion seat post. The seat raises clear up quickly when I actuate the lever but then settles back down about a 1/2" when I put weight on it before it catches.

    It also raises back up about a 1/2" at the bottom of the stroke after I lower it all the way down then release the lever.

    Is my cable just too tight? Or is something bigger wrong?
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  18. #18
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    KRob - I get that kind of effect when I put the bike upside down with the seat in the lowered position. I clear it by cycling the seat up and down 2 or 3 times. Doesn't sound like your problem is that easy though.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by KRob
    I've read through a bunch of these Speedball fix threads and the stuff on the Maverick site but haven't seen the solution for this problem.

    I have about 1/2" of up/down movement at the top of the stroke that acts like a mini-suspenionsion seat post. The seat raises clear up quickly when I actuate the lever but then settles back down about a 1/2" when I put weight on it before it catches.

    It also raises back up about a 1/2" at the bottom of the stroke after I lower it all the way down then release the lever.

    Is my cable just too tight? Or is something bigger wrong?
    I've had this issue 2 times over the last 10 month on my Speedball, but it was going hand in hand with large amounts of oil spewing out of the post, so the sinking/sagging effect would gradually worsen until the post was not really functioning anymore. In both cases I had to send the post to Dirtlabs for warranty work. It has slowly started to develop this again over the last week, but no gushing oil (yet?). Interestingly, this time, the post acts fine when rested or at the beginning of a ride, but about 1h into a ride it starts acting up with the sinking issue you describe. Nope, my cable is not too tight.

    If anybody knows a fix for this or has any ideas, please chime in. It's awesome when the Speedball works as intended....I really hate to say this, but with my experiences over the last 10 months, I am seriously starting to think about replacing it with a Gravity Dropper or Specialized post....not even sure if those work more reliable though.

  20. #20
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    (This post is completely unrelated to KRob and FW's issue)

    My Speedball has been sluggish lately and the actuator was difficult to press. I tried adjusting the barrel and I took it apart, cleaned, lubed and put it back together and it was still sluggish - slow to go up and taking more pressure on the seat to go down. I was really close to sending it back to Dirtlabs for an overhaul. On my last ride I noticed that the cable under the actuator was fraying. I changed out the cable and wow its back to the way it was. It goes up and down as fast as I remember it.

    Probably stating the obvious, but check your cable if things aren't working correctly.

    John

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by fizzywater
    I've had this issue 2 times over the last 10 month on my Speedball, but it was going hand in hand with large amounts of oil spewing out of the post, so the sinking/sagging effect would gradually worsen until the post was not really functioning anymore.
    No oil spewing out of mine and it doesn't gradually creep down either. It just doesn't lock in the up position until it settles about a 1/2".....then it locks in and doesn't sink anymore.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch
    KRob - I get that kind of effect when I put the bike upside down with the seat in the lowered position. I clear it by cycling the seat up and down 2 or 3 times. Doesn't sound like your problem is that easy though.

    Hmmm. Possible. I always hang my bike up by the front wheel, but up until lately that hasn't seemed to bother the Speedball..... However when I got back from my Moab trip I happened to hang it up with the seat in the locked down position which I generally never do.

    Then while I was fiddling with it trying to fix this problem I activated the lever when it was hanging from the front wheel. Then it wouldn't stay down or locked in the up postion (like a 3" softly sprung suspension seat post..... no bueno) until I did what you describe. That seemed to get me back where I started at least.

    Just in case hanging the bike from the front wheel is affecting the post.... I've left it upright in the work stand the past three days.... and so far no change in the problem.
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  23. #23
    BMJ
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    This is an issue I've been dealing with for a while now, even after having dirtlabs replace all the seals. It appears that I have some seapage past the main seal inside the post. Not alot, not like a blown seal. Over time it appears that this is allowing my oil level within the post to get below the internal valves min height. The effect is exactly what you guys discribe, squishy. The other side effect is that if you cycle the post your emulsifying the air into the oil and when the post is all the way down, it slowly rises up a small amount.

    I've found that every other month I need to top off the oil in the post with 2-3cc of fluid, pump it back up to 80psi and all is well again. If you put too much in it won't compress all the way down untill the fluid level drops again. You could also purge out a small amount to free up full drop travel.

    I love the post, hate the seals!

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMJ
    I've found that every other month I need to top off the oil in the post with 2-3cc of fluid, pump it back up to 80psi and all is well again.
    It sounds like this may be my problem..... slightly low oil level. I've had the post for over a year and never had the oil changed or the shock serviced other than just taking it apart to clean and lube it. It doesn't seem to leak, but there's always some oil on the post.

    Is this hard to do? I've read through the oil change procedure and it sounds complicated. Can you add small amounts of oil without going through the whole rigamaroll? How do you do it?

    Thanks.
    Last edited by KRob; 05-19-2009 at 06:48 PM.
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  25. #25
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    Yes!
    -cycle the post upside down, with lever engaged
    -till it becomes springy
    -remove outer tube (30.0/31.6)
    -remove schrader cap cover (flat head, don't mess this up)
    gently depress vavle core to release air pressure (may spit a bit) keep valve facing up
    -remove valve core
    DO NOT ENGAGE LEVER AT THIS POINT, REALLY
    -add 2-3cc of 5wt fluid
    -reinstall core
    -air up to 70-80psi
    -install cap
    -reinstall tube
    -cycle post right side up
    should be good to go-
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  26. #26
    BMJ
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    What Ethan says has worked for me many times. Too many though. I suppose you have to expect to loose a small amount each time the post cycles to keep things lubed. I wonder if a tighter fitting seal could fend this off though.

  27. #27
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    I tried adding some oil and I have a question. Is it supposed to be hard to get the oil in.... like you have to pump it in under pressure?

    I put 2.5cc in a 10cc syringe with the tip cut so it would barely fit/screw into the schraeder valve opening and it seemed like the oil didn't want to go in. In fact some still oozed back out around the syringe tip so I'm not sure how much (if any) got in.

    Repressurizing to 80lbs did help the snapiness of the return but my 1/2" of mushiness at the top of the stroke is still there.

    Advice?
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  28. #28
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    John,

    You need to overhaul the sleeve and re-pressure the air cartridge to 75psi.
    Luby will totally kickass your Speedball if you want to send it to him and pay the service charge.
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee
    Better suited to non-aggressive 125# gals named Russell.
    I ride so slow, your Garmin will shut off.

  29. #29
    BMJ
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    When you screw the syringe into the shaft it creates an air tight seal. When you try to push the oil in, the air it displaces needs to escape. This won't happen with the syringe screwed in tight.

    What you really want to do is compress the shaft 2/3rds in and then screw the syringe into the shaft. As you squeeze the oil in, slowly extend the shaft to pull the fluid in and you should be fine.

    Luby's great at Dirtworks but I'd try this before you ship it out. Even after I had him service my SpeedBall, I still have to regularly do this process to keep it runnin in top shape.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMJ
    When you screw the syringe into the shaft it creates an air tight seal. When you try to push the oil in, the air it displaces needs to escape. This won't happen with the syringe screwed in tight.

    What you really want to do is compress the shaft 2/3rds in and then screw the syringe into the shaft. As you squeeze the oil in, slowly extend the shaft to pull the fluid in and you should be fine.

    Luby's great at Dirtworks but I'd try this before you ship it out. Even after I had him service my SpeedBall, I still have to regularly do this process to keep it runnin in top shape.

    That makes sense. Thanks for the tip, BMJ.

    This was pretty easy to do so I may try it again with your technique before I ship it off.
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ramelzer
    I was told that I should post this here instead.

    I have heard many people complaining about the slow return of the Maverick SpeedBall and the Crank Brothers Joplin Seat posts. The recommended remedy for this is to run the seat post with the seal head loose. There is one problem with this. If it is loose enough for the air to enter the post when raising it is loose enough to pull in contaminates with the air.

    My experience with the post is not that air is being trapped in the post preventing it from raising as Maverick states. It is that air cannot get back in. The design of the post is such that when compressed the shaft displaces air in the seat tube, forcing it out through the seal. Due to the design of the seal, when you attempt to raise the saddle the vacuum created forces the seal to seal tighter preventing air from gaining access to the seat tube. This is a theory I have tested with a bit of soapy water. This is also the reason we all suffer poor performance after a particularly wet ride.

    My cure for this is a simple one. Many of you may remember the old ZYZYX forks built by Hanabrink many years ago, they suffered from a similar problem, and this is where I borrowed my idea from.

    First you must start by removing the upper part of the post ( stantion ) from the lower post ( seat tube ). To do so is very simple; first you need to unscrew the seal head from the seat tube making sure that is is fully removed. Second using a ten mm socket on the end of a short extension unscrew the nut on the bottom of the post. This will allow you to remove the stantion from the seat tube.

    Next is the actual fix; Start by thourghouly cleaning the seat tube. Next will require a long 1/16 in drill bit. In the bottom of the seat tube you will notice a silver base plate that the stantion was secured to earlier. You will be drilling a 1/16" hole in this base plate. You will want to drill this hole halfway between the wall of the post and the hole in the middle that the stantion secures to.

    Now this cure is best for those of you that ride a bike with out an interupted seat tube. Those of you that do run a greater risk of sucking contamants into the system through this hole. If you do have an interupted seat tube you can reduce that risk by securing a piece of sponge in the bottom of the post to act as a filter preventing contamants from entering the bottom of the post.

    Reasembly; is the opposite of dissasembly. Make sure all parts are thoroughly cleaned and lubbed with a light petroleam based grease.

    This modification allows air to escape and enter the seatpost through this small hole in the bottom. Maverick no Crank Brothers allowed for air movement within the system.
    Going back to Gravity Dropper. The Speedball is way to high maintenance.
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  32. #32
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    Really stupid question here.

    I can't get the nut off the bottom. I've done the clean/lube service probably 6 or 7 times on this post. I noticed during the last service that I couldn't get the nut tight - the shraeder valve seemed to be spinning, so after 3 or 4 rides the nut would loosen up. Instead of figuring out why it was spinning, I did the stupid thing and put some blue Loctite on the nut before installing. It stopped the nut from loosening, but now I need to do the service again and I can't get the nut off - again the shraeder valve is spinning.

    Can anyone explain why this is happening and how I can get a bit of friction on this so I can get the nut off?

    Thanks
    John

  33. #33
    BMJ
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    I put the top of the post against the ground and push down as hard as I can to create friction to tighten the nut, maybe this might help. Sometimes if you can shock the loctite with a quick jerk on the socket as well. It would have been good if Mav could have put some serations or an interface to make things easier, that's fur shur.

  34. #34
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    Maybe someone else will find this useful.

    I tried to get the Loctite to loosen up with a bit of heat, nope. I tried going quick, slow and everything in between with a socket no dice, the valve kept spinning. I took it over my brothers and we tried an impact wrench on it, still no good. He's a motorcycle mechanic and we agreed that destruction was the last available route.

    I ended up using a small cold chisel, drill and screwdriver to basically take the nut apart. It's aluminum so not too hard, but the fact that it's recessed way down in that hole made it pretty tough. It probably took me 2 hours and about half the skin on my fingers to get the old nut out. Once I had it apart I could see that the entire bottom part of the seatpost (the part that sticks out when the seat is extended) is turning, I could see no way to fix that without getting way inside the post and I wasn't about to do that.

    I cleaned, lubed and aired up the post and all was working fine. I went to the hardware store to get a new nut forgetting that today is Independence Day so they were closed. Argh. I searched through my parts bin and pretty much came up empty, then I tried a chainring nut and viola it fits! Its a standard schrader valve thread, I always assumed those were not metric, learn something every day (assuming that the cranset bolts are metric?). I had to run a die over the threads to clean them up as they got a bit buggered with all the work I did to get the nut off. I was actually pretty happy with how much thread was left as I really didn't have a back up plan if they were completely trashed.

    I could easily get the chainring nut tight enough to make the valve spin with a large screwdriver. I fully expect I'll be tightening that up after every second or third ride. I might try using something like electrical tape or some kind of wax to hold it on. I'm thinking those things would melt if I applied a little heat later on when I needed to take it apart.

    Unfortunately my Speedball has seen better days, if I get another year out of it I'll be lucky. I've got 2 years of hard riding on it, but the killer seems to be moisture, that seal on the top is not very effective at keeping stuff out. In retrospect putting a piece of tube over it seems like a really good idea. I got caught in the rain on Thursday night and there was a LOT of water in there. I imagine even a bit of water getting splashed up there (like when I ride through a puddle) gets in.

    John

  35. #35
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    what about the saddle slipping within the seat post clamps?

    ANy suggestions beyond just tightening the bolt within the clamp? Thanks.

  36. #36
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    Hi, this is my first post in ref to my speedball.
    It was working perfectly until i cross threaded the collar putting it on. I contacted the UK distributor for crank brothers, and they kindly sent me out a replacement joplin threaded collar. All was going well until i tried to fit it. In a rush i forgot completely to let the pressure out of the thing and removed the guide block. No drama as i had a rag over the bit so the pressure came out ok and then pissed the oil over the kitchen wall !!
    Anyway..... ive followed the instructions to refill the oil etc (i am usually very competant by the way) but it just wont work properly. Its slowly creeping up. It was spongy, so i added 2cc of oil etc, which sorted that, but it keeps on creeping up.

    What bothered me most on the final attempt is that a small damaged o-ring dropped out of the post about 4-5mm in diameter?

    I really dont want to give up on this so can anyone help or ideally please provide me with an exploded diagram of the entire speedball system? Like location of o-rings etc

    Sorry for this being so long, i await your knowledgable replies, Cheers Mike

  37. #37
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    Sorry to be so impatient, but can anybody send me an exploded diagram showing oring placement etc.
    I really am desperate, Mike

  38. #38
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    give me and email address
    Maverick ML7.2 / SC32
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    Alpamayo you have a pm, Mike

  40. #40
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    Anyone know what Lubyn @Dirtworks charges for a Speedball service? Ballpark?
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

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    bringing this thread back, as I have the EXACT problem Jisch had

    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch
    Maybe someone else will find this useful.

    I tried to get the Loctite to loosen up with a bit of heat, nope. I tried going quick, slow and everything in between with a socket no dice, the valve kept spinning. I took it over my brothers and we tried an impact wrench on it, still no good. He's a motorcycle mechanic and we agreed that destruction was the last available route.

    I ended up using a small cold chisel, drill and screwdriver to basically take the nut apart. It's aluminum so not too hard, but the fact that it's recessed way down in that hole made it pretty tough. It probably took me 2 hours and about half the skin on my fingers to get the old nut out. Once I had it apart I could see that the entire bottom part of the seatpost (the part that sticks out when the seat is extended) is turning, I could see no way to fix that without getting way inside the post and I wasn't about to do that.

    I cleaned, lubed and aired up the post and all was working fine. I went to the hardware store to get a new nut forgetting that today is Independence Day so they were closed. Argh. I searched through my parts bin and pretty much came up empty, then I tried a chainring nut and viola it fits! Its a standard schrader valve thread, I always assumed those were not metric, learn something every day (assuming that the cranset bolts are metric?). I had to run a die over the threads to clean them up as they got a bit buggered with all the work I did to get the nut off. I was actually pretty happy with how much thread was left as I really didn't have a back up plan if they were completely trashed.

    I could easily get the chainring nut tight enough to make the valve spin with a large screwdriver. I fully expect I'll be tightening that up after every second or third ride. I might try using something like electrical tape or some kind of wax to hold it on. I'm thinking those things would melt if I applied a little heat later on when I needed to take it apart.

    Unfortunately my Speedball has seen better days, if I get another year out of it I'll be lucky. I've got 2 years of hard riding on it, but the killer seems to be moisture, that seal on the top is not very effective at keeping stuff out. In retrospect putting a piece of tube over it seems like a really good idea. I got caught in the rain on Thursday night and there was a LOT of water in there. I imagine even a bit of water getting splashed up there (like when I ride through a puddle) gets in.

    John
    .

    Really not looking forward to cutting the nut off. Don't think I can get my dremel in there...when you say you used a cold chisel and a drill - did you drill a hole in the nut as a place to set the chisel and then pound away? It seems like impact force on this thing might be a bad idea.

  42. #42
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    Yes

    Quote Originally Posted by kudude
    bringing this thread back, as I have the EXACT problem Jisch had

    Really not looking forward to cutting the nut off. Don't think I can get my dremel in there...when you say you used a cold chisel and a drill - did you drill a hole in the nut as a place to set the chisel and then pound away? It seems like impact force on this thing might be a bad idea.
    Yes, it was not fun, I didn't pound too hard - its an aluminum bolt.

    John

  43. #43
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    I disassembled my Joplin last night to drill the small vent hole for snappier up-action, but discovered that there were already two small holes in the mounting plate! I got mine this spring, I think, or maybe last winter. I guess Crank Bros. have made the vent a standard feature?

    The project took a dark turn though when I discovered that I'd stripped out the threads on the cable pinch bolt on the actuator arm. And my cable was frayed such that it could not be reused, and the only housing I had available was a larger diameter than the final cable stop accepts. Much fiddling later and a Gore Ride-On cable was installed with a new actuator arm. I hated to use such a sweet derailleur cable for a seatpost, but hopefully it will now last forever.

    Does anyone use loctite on the top threadring to keep it from constantly unscrewing on its own?
    "I thought you'd never love me without my Mojo." -Austin Powers

  44. #44
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    New Seal/O-ring for Speedball Sealhead?

    My Speedball started leaking again and it gets gradually worse. Oil keeps running down the small inside tube...I believe the inside seal in the sealhead is worn/leaking. Does anybody know if Crankbrothers is offering a new/improved internal seal/o-ring for the Speedball/Joplin sealhead? If yes, do you know the Crankbrothers part#? Or can I get this type also in a specialized tool or hardware store? See image below.....
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic
    Anyone know what Luby @Dirtlabs charges for a Speedball service? Ballpark?
    Figure $85 + shipping
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee
    Better suited to non-aggressive 125# gals named Russell.
    I ride so slow, your Garmin will shut off.

  46. #46
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    There are two grooves in my Joplin which allow the guide block to slide into. I have an exceptional amount of play ( my opinion ) in the Joplin. While Crank Bros, deems this within their tolerances I find it a bit too sloppy.
    My question is this, has anyone put two guide blocks on the post and has this had any positive results in reducing the saddle play?
    i never thought i'd be 43 and living here......i kinda wanted to be a rockstar..." Mark Hendershot

  47. #47
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    The outer tube only has one key way in it, so you cannot have more than one guide block at a time! Unless the post is new, replace the guide block (www.dirtlabs.com) and use a generous amount of Slick Honey grease and that will reduce wear. The Crank post uses a very good urethane wiper and should keep most crud out to reduce wear too.
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  48. #48
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    Hi fellow Maverick Speedballers....I tried to remedy the oil leaking of my post by replacing the 2 o-rings on the silver sealhead and that worked fine. This required to get rid of all the oil in the post. When I tried to refill the post with the recommended 50-55ml of oil, my post simply refuses. For the life of me I am not able to get in more than 40ml into the post (I pressed and released the lever at the top numerous times while refilling the oil). I flushed out (pressing and releasing the lever at the top numerous times while draining the oil) all the oil at least 3 times and retried. Tried also with different syringes, but to no avail. In addition, once I force the 40ml into the post, nothing moves at all, the post seems hydrolocked...I can hardly get any air in either and even if I do, the post does not budge at all.

    Do I need to use less oil...say just 25-30ml? I feel like a retard ...what am I missing? Please help!

  49. #49
    BMJ
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    I ran into the same problem as well. I approached Ethan about the possibility that mine would require less and he said no. It will take the whole amount eventually. It took me a while but it did finally suck it all in. Since the post isn't under pressure when your filling it back up, the valve will only burp a small amount by it at a time.

    Part of you issue might be that there is still some left in the top part of the post and in effect your going to just be topping it off. If your not sure how much you have in the post, try closing everything up and repressurize it. Re-assemble it into the lowers and activate the post to put it into the full down position. If you get hydro-lock because there is too much fluid in it. Take the lowers off again, and while holding the post in the upright position, activate the schrader valve purging out some fluid (little at a time!). Top off the air pressure, re-install into the lowers and colapse again. If you your getting more travel but still hydo-locking.... repeat the process. It's trial and error tuning.

    Keep alot of rags handy!

  50. #50
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    Speedball/Joplin oil change instructions

    See below for instructions. You are trying to put in too much oil becuase the chamber above the main valve is still full of oil. A cheater method is to fill like you have and then push in the schrader valve and push in the compression tube to release the excess oil, then, this gets you darn close!

    Speedball oil change

    *For just setting air charge - see below instructions - pg 3

    Holding in remote lever or hand actuated lever, cycle post upside down several times. Let go of lever.

    Remove 10mm nut at bottom and unscrew Maverick engraved collar.
    Remove outer tube. (Slides off)

    Remover micro Schrader valve cap at bottom of compression shaft (flat head screw driver).

    Cover Schrader valve with paper towel and release any pressure still in post.
    Remove Schrader valve core.

    With post right side up, aiming bottom valve into an oil bucket, release remote lever or squeeze hand lever.
    *This will release any pressure left and oil.

    Holding release lever in, cycle compression shaft (gold color bottom shaft) up and down, allowing oil to drip into oil bucket.
    *This will cycle out all the left over oil inside upper chamber, do this a bunch.

    At this point there should be no pressure and virtually no oil left in the post.

    Refilling post:

    Remove seat clamps from post and clamp head into smooth jaw vice, with compression shaft facing up, for easy filling.

    With a 60CC volume or more syringe (you can use smaller and just fill it several times) fill syringe to 50-52cc of 5wt or 10wt oil.
    *Oil weight does not matter but the volume does.

    Put plastic syringe tip into Schrader hole, slightly screwing it in to create a seal.
    Push oil into post at the same time releasing post lever.

    Cycle the compression shaft at the same time.
    *Your doing a couple of things at once here!
    The lever needs to be opened up, as well as being cycled, to allow oil into the lower chamber past the valve system and accept all 50+CC of oil.

    Put a paper towel around bottom of syringe and Schrader valve to keep oil from “spitting” when pressure is release by removing syringe tip.
    *As you inject oil you build a small amount of air pressure.

    After all 50-52CC of oil is into post, install Schrader core (light torque).

    With standard shock pump pressurize to 80psi.
    Hit release lever, pump pressure will drop, pump back to 80psi and hit release lever.
    Continue to do this till it stays at 80psi when release lever is pushed. Remove pump.

    Reinstall micro cap, reverse installation of outer tube.
    *removal of outer tube in post instruction manual included with post.

    Cycle post several times with lever squeezed to activate valve system. Check for firmness at top and holding at bottom.

    If it continues to be squishy at top, more oil is needed, only 2 - 3CC max more is needed.
    To do this, follow below:
    -Get post situated back into vice.

    Hold lever and cycle compression shaft 5+ times with release lever squeezed. This will be tough as you are pushing against high pressure.

    Undo micro Schrader valve cap, cover valve with paper towel and release pressure.

    Safety glasses on!

    DO NOT SQUEEZE LEVER FROM THIS POINT ON.

    Oil will shoot up if you do!

    Add 2 - 3CC of oil to Schrader hole. (Schrader core removed)
    Air up system, follow above procedure for this.

    This will do it!



    Setting air pressure in Speedball seat post:


    Holding in remote lever or hand actuated lever, cycle post upside down 5 -6 times. Let go of lever.

    Remove 10mm nut at bottom and unscrew Maverick engraved collar.
    Remove outer tube. (Slide off)

    Remover micro Schrader valve cap at bottom of compression shaft (flat head screw driver).

    Cover Schrader valve with paper towel, Face Upwards, push Schrader valve to release any pressure still in post.

    Remove seat clamps from post and clamp head into smooth jaw vice, with compression shaft facing up, for easy filling.

    With standard bicycle shock pump, pressurize Schrader valve to 80psi.
    Max pressure = 85Ppsi.

    Leave pump on post.
    Hit release lever, pump pressure will drop.
    Pump back to 80psi and hit release lever.
    Continue to do this till it stays at 80psi when release lever is pushed.
    Remove pump.

    Reinstall micro Schrader cap.

    Grease glide rings and guide block & install outer tube
    Tighten 10mm nut at bottom to 40in/lb
    Tighten Maverick seal head collar, hand tighten, over tightening this will slow the post down by crushing to rubber seal.

    Cycle post several times with lever squeezed to activate valve system. Check for firmness at top and holding at bottom.
    This will do it!

    Ride
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  51. #51
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    I was thinking of getting a Joplin for my Matic but after reading this thread I'm not so sure anymore. Are all these problems on older Speedballs only and is the Joplin improved? From what I've read the seatpost seems to need a lot of maintaining and may not be worth the trouble. Also, I was looking at the KS i950 seatpost but from the pictures I've seen it appears that it may not have enough angle adjustment to get the seat horizontal with the Matics seatpost angle. Anyone try the KS? Thanks.

  52. #52
    BMJ
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    According to CB, the 2010 Joplin3 and Joplin4 are coming with whole new sealing systems as well as a double keyway to help fend off premature slop. Supposidly out in January.

    I just picked up a KS i900 to hold me over untill the Joplin4 is released. Can't help you out on the i950 head angle issue but I will say that I liked the smooth operation of the SpeedBall/Joplin over the KS. The KS is much improved over the originals that hit the market a year ago, but with all the bushings, bearings and seals involved to keep out the wiggle, it really slows the rebound. I like the fast rebound on the SpeedBall/Joplin better even if it is a little wiggly side to side. I don't have much time on it yet, maybe it'll break in and get smoother like some suspension forks. I'll probably get the new Joplin4 anyways and cross compare and unload the lesser of the two.

  53. #53
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    Well guys, I have been following all the Speedball, Joplin and other adjustable seatpost threads for the past 9 months wondering what all the issues are about. Now I finally understand. I was getting a fit on my ML8 when my speedball just totally collapsed spewing oil out the main seal. It had been 100% trouble and maintenance free since I got my bike in May. Ride 3 times a week and use the post all the time on rides - its a great feature. I'm 265lbs but again, it has been trouble free since the day I got it.

    So should I send it to Ethan, Dirt Labs or Suspension Experts for repair? Is there any upgrades or improvements that should be done to it while its in for repair? I see $85 quoted above - is that a standard rate?

    Thanks for the help guys!

    EJ

  54. #54
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    Dirt Labs is the place to send it If it's Maverick post with a copy of the receipt if it's possible to be covered under 'warranty'
    Joplins should go back to Crank Brothers.
    Unknown if SEx is re-working on them.
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee
    Better suited to non-aggressive 125# gals named Russell.
    I ride so slow, your Garmin will shut off.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by fizzywater
    My Speedball started leaking again and it gets gradually worse. Oil keeps running down the small inside tube...I believe the inside seal in the sealhead is worn/leaking. Does anybody know if Crankbrothers is offering a new/improved internal seal/o-ring for the Speedball/Joplin sealhead? If yes, do you know the Crankbrothers part#? Or can I get this type also in a specialized tool or hardware store? See image below.....



    Could some post the full stripping instructions or point me towards a web page.
    Mine is letting oil/air out so i guess it needs new seals.
    Cheers
    Paul

  56. #56
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    Could someone post instruction on how to completely strip a speedball please. I think i need to change the internal O rings
    many thanks
    Paul

  57. #57
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    you can e-mail me at tech@maverickbike.com and i can get that to you.
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  58. #58
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    So my nearly 3 yr old SBR that's never been serviced started rising very slowly (to the point were I've got to lift it back) and I've disassembled to change oil. Have had a helluva time refilling -- need to try again at 2/3 compressed -- and after filled the lever on post is very hard to compress and the post can be lowered by force even if lever isn't pulled.

    What do I need to do?

  59. #59
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    ssorgs, give me a shout, tech@maverickbike.com, thanks
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  60. #60
    GAME ON!
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    here's my issue: i haven't even ridden my speedball. it has worked in the stand when i've tried, but today i went to try it and it won't stay down. it will go up quite well, i just can't get it to stay down. there are no leaks and i haven't changed it in any way. i don't see this particular issue in this thread. any hints?

  61. #61
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    Considering it's new and unridden, I'd focus on the cable tension. Sounds like the cable isn't getting fully released.

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    but today i went to try it and it won't stay down. it will go up quite well, i just can't get it to stay down. there are no leaks and i haven't changed it in any way. i don't see this particular issue in this thread. any hints?
    remote model or not?

  63. #63
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    remote

  64. #64
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    Maverick speedball remote lever installation

    This may be covered in another thread but I'll be darned if I can find it. Does anyone have installation instructions for the optional Maverick Speedball or Joplin remote lever? Specifically I want to know how to get that old stainless drift pin out of the seatpost lever without buggering the surrounding aluminum. I also want to know how to install the new pin into the old seatpost without destroying it.
    Any ideas are welcome. First hand experience usually is best.
    Thanks

  65. #65
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    iNSTALLING REMOTE LEVER ON mAVERICK sPEEDBALL

    Has anyone installed the optional remote lever on your Maverick Speedball or Joplin seatpost?
    How did you get the steel drift pin out of the manual lever so you can install the new remote lever. Is ther any trick to avoid mashing the surrounding aluminum wher the pin enters and exits. Are there any pdf's or printed instructions for this procedure?
    Thanks

  66. #66
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    I took a finishing nail with a small head that was about the size of the roll pin and used it as a punch. A couple of taps on the pointy end of the nail with a hammer and the "drift pin" slid out.

  67. #67
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    Tried something similar

    Thanks for the tip. I guess my pin is just more reluctant to come out. I went out and bought the correct size drift pin punch and it has only snapped the punch after bending on the first few taps. Any ideas for a stuck pin?

  68. #68
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    Where did you buy the new actuator arm???? I've come across the same problem. Totally stripped the threads in the arm and rendered it useless. Any advise?

  69. #69
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    threads

    Go by a longer bolt, same size 3mm, the threads in the arm are way deeper and you can catch plenty of them deeper into the arm!

  70. #70
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    Try This site : GreasyBench.com or you can call these guys for Maverick speedball parts –dirtlabs– home If none of that works try contacting Crankbrothers. Their Joplin seatpost is very close to an identical post to the speedball. Good Luck

  71. #71
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    BTW is it bad to put an innertube over the post? I have a joplin 4 and was just covering it in mud when I rode so I put an inner tube over the post and zip tied it top and bottom. It would not rebound anymore except extremely slowly so I cut a little hole in the front of the inner tube to let air in and viola it works perfect. I just did not know if it would end up chewing off the teflon coating or not, but I did not want all that mud on every ride either.

    Anyway the post is pretty awesome and quite stable.

  72. #72
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    Thanks for the ideas. I went to my local Home Depot and bought longer bolts, 4mm width and 12mm long. Worked perfectly. No need to buy new actuator arm. I am curious as to how much crankbrothers will charge for that piece. I already emailed them, before buying the longer bolts. I'll post when I hear back.

  73. #73
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    So, Crankbrothers replied to my email and decided to send me the replacement actuator arm for free! I emailed smallparts @ crankbrothers.com and received the new part in the mail yesterday. Great customer service.

  74. #74
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    Hello
    my joplin 4 lost air from the upper hole, where the level pressing the piston to go down. Something like that:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AzDxvaRBsYA
    Is it false o-ring?
    Exploded view of joplin describe this o-ring 3X1.5 mm.
    Is it correct ?
    Thanks

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by stamatis View Post
    Hello
    my joplin 4 lost air from the upper hole, where the level pressing the piston to go down. Something like that:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AzDxvaRBsYA
    Is it false o-ring?
    Exploded view of joplin describe this o-ring 3X1.5 mm.
    Is it correct ?
    Thanks
    Yes, correct Stamatis, but if you want to get access to that Oring you need a special tool, very very special tool Got it !!!
    Maverick ML7.2 / SC32
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