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  1. #1
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    SC32 service kits availibility in the UK

    anyone know where i can get service parts (Orings and such) now in the UK?

    If not i'll call Sideways Cycles on Monday, seems they might be OOS on the parts though as they've taken the page down? should have bought it before but £70! is a lot.

    Haven't yet serviced my fork but might attempt an oil change this weekend so i'll see what else needs doing. and try not to ruin anything whilst i'm in there :/

  2. #2
    A Surly Maverick
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    These are on Ebay UK at present :-

    Maverick suspension seal kit for duc32 and sc32 | eBay

    Also I can recommend Craig Simpson for UK Maverick servicing.

    simpsons@mypostoffice.co.uk

    Cheers,
    Dr FG .
    A Fatback'd Lefty for who life IS a Beach

  3. #3
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    great, gone for those thanks (only one set!?)
    you're not associated with either shop then?

  4. #4
    A Surly Maverick
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    No association with either.

    Craig serviced, tuned and 29er kitted a Duc32 for me (as a paying customer) and he did a good job, hence my recommendation.

    Regarding the service kits, I'm always on the lookout for Mav stuff on Ebay and just came across them.
    A Fatback'd Lefty for who life IS a Beach

  5. #5
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    well that's very good of you thank you. seems like Maverick owners are a friendly bunch. shame i don't know many more around me!
    i'm going to wait 'till i'm feeling up to it and go very carefully on the SC32, notes about thin walls have me nervous.
    (even £35 seems quite a lot more mainly Orings, RS reba kits can be had for about £10 from some guy on ebay!).

  6. #6
    A Surly Maverick
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    You are welcome

    They are pretty easy forks to work on and very tunable .

    Plus you can run FAT tyres on them if you feel the need .......Project Fat RS:- Klein Clydesdale MMXI Final Reveal.

    Same goes for the SC32

    It`s All Fine with my Pug :)

    Post 15 on.
    A Fatback'd Lefty for who life IS a Beach

  7. #7
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    Smiff, if ever you don't find what you need in UK, ask to the froggy .. I have many spares in stock to help. ALPA?TECH Maverick Service Center
    Maverick ML7.2 / SC32
    Maverick ML7.5
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  8. #8
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    alrighty, there's an extra bolt.. any ideas what this is for?



    it has a hole in it.

    Alpamayo thanks also, my French isn't so good though

  9. #9
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    This is the bolt, Damper Rod, right side.
    Maverick ML7.2 / SC32
    Maverick ML7.5
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    Maverick ML8 / BOS Devile

    French Maverick Breeder

  10. #10
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    ok thanks just strange it wasn't in the packet.

    also... how on Earth did this cost £70. for some orings and valves.

    anyway.. on to the service!

    thanks both of you. i'll probably be back when i mess something up.

    (I can service Rebas ok, just never done a Mav).

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smiff View Post
    ok thanks just strange it wasn't in the packet.

    also... how on Earth did this cost £70. for some orings and valves.

    anyway.. on to the service!

    thanks both of you. i'll probably be back when i mess something up.

    (I can service Rebas ok, just never done a Mav).
    £70 is very expensive, for the same price you could have send it to me, service and shipping back. You don't need to change most of the ORings. As they are not submitted to mechanical frictions, no worries. Open your cartridge very carefully, aluminium alloy is tender and good tools are required. If ever you are facing an issue to open them, send me only the cartridge, light and cheap for shipping. I'll fix your problem and service your duc for cheap
    Maverick ML7.2 / SC32
    Maverick ML7.5
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    Maverick ML8 / BOS Devile

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  12. #12
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    thanks, if i can't figure out what's wrong with it (only getting about half travel) i might do that. I may not use the kit either, it's just in case parts are needed.
    thanks.

    I bought the fork 2nd hand and no idea what its service history is or if anything inside is broken!

  13. #13
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    okay, took the right leg out and my missing travel problem is obvious - the previous owner had put waaay too much oil in the upper leg, causing it to hydrolock. it's supposed to be only 5ml right? i had a huge puddle on the ground, maybe 50ml.

    edit: just realised, that may have leaked from the damper?

    but, lockdown doesn't seem to working (not exactly sure what it should feel like, but it should stay a bit down I think?) and damping is inconsistent, so i'm going to order a 21mm spanner (seems like i could use a 21mm socket, not sure why everywhere says spanner) and try to do a full service.

    first impression is this is a very nice fork to work on, even easier in some ways than a Reba.
    Last edited by Smiff; 01-28-2012 at 05:20 PM.

  14. #14
    A Surly Maverick
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    Good luck
    A Fatback'd Lefty for who life IS a Beach

  15. #15
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    rode the Mav today and felt better already without that hard early bottom out. also, the leg didn't fall out which is a bonus.

    are there supposed to be two bushes in each fork leg? this looks odd, but maybe it stiffens things up (in a good way?)

  16. #16
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    [QUOTE=Smiff;8953842]rode the Mav today and felt better already without that hard early bottom out. also, the leg didn't fall out which is a bonus.

    are there supposed to be two bushes in each fork leg? this looks odd, but maybe it stiffens things up (in a good way?)[/QUOTE]

    Not sure to understand what you mean ?
    Maverick ML7.2 / SC32
    Maverick ML7.5
    Maverick Durance / Duc32
    Maverick ML8 / BOS Devile

    French Maverick Breeder

  17. #17
    A Surly Maverick
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    Smiff, you don't mean these do you ?

    MAVERICK - Products

    If you do, these are the Maverick 29er kit for reducing travel so you can fit a 29er wheel (or a FAT one ).
    A Fatback'd Lefty for who life IS a Beach

  18. #18
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    [QUOTE=Alpamayo;8955779]
    Quote Originally Posted by Smiff View Post
    rode the Mav today and felt better already without that hard early bottom out. also, the leg didn't fall out which is a bonus.

    are there supposed to be two bushes in each fork leg? this looks odd, but maybe it stiffens things up (in a good way?)[/QUOTE]

    Not sure to understand what you mean ?
    sorry, i mean I have two bushes at the bottom of each outer. the two bushes are touching after i remove the inner tubes. is this normal? i have a weird noise during compresion and suspect one may be sliding.

    also a nasty creak when twisting the fork hard. wasn't there when i got it. any ideas where that might come from please?

  19. #19
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    also this might sound retarded but where's the valve on the damper? it says inflate to 60psi but i couldn't seem to find one!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smiff View Post
    ... a nasty creak when twisting the fork hard. wasn't there when i got it. any ideas where that might come from please?
    crown and head bolt not sitting properly? qr clamps too loose on the axle?

  21. #21
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    why don't you try looking at the service pdf?

    remove the damper leg from the fork and then remove the stanchion from the assembly - the valve is at the bottom. make sure you follow the proper procedure for pumpin air into the damper unit (pdf!).

  22. #22
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    The right fork leg contains a low-pressure, oil damper cartridge that provides rebound and compression damping, and the ride height climbing mode adjustment feature.

    http://www.maverickbike.com/cms_images/file_15.pdf

    If you remove the lower leg from the upper "H" section some oil will come out (5-10ml of 5wt)(DUC=10ml; SC=5ml). This is only used to lubricate the seal and stanchion tube(lower tube that attaches to the wheel).

    Now with the leg out you need to take it apart by clamping the lower leg to the wheel and unthread the upper and lower parts of the leg. The upper part is the damper and it has a Schrader Valve at the bottom. Depressurize the damper. see page 8 in manual above.
    Unscrew the Seal Head using a 21mm wrench. Pull the Rod and Piston and Rod assembly out of the Damper Tube (page 9). Drain oil (95ml) damper tube. Inspect rod assembly/piston for damaged o-rings. At this point for oil replacement only, proceed to to page 11.
    Refiill the empty Damper Tube with 5 to 10wt oil. The amount of oil is determined by the level it is from the top of the empty Damper Tube.The correct level is 63 mm (aprx.95ml) from the top of both the DUC & SC. Reattach the rod assembly/piston and tread on the sealhead.
    Face the Schrader Valve upwards and cycle the cartridge, then pressurize the Damper Cartridge through the Schrader Valve at the bottom to 60 to 85psi. Reattach to lower leg/stanchion tube. Insert complete lower leg partially(remember to include top out bumper) into upper "H" section. Put 5ml of 10 wt oill (lubrication) in the upper "H" section tube (page 12). Fully insert complete lower leg partially into upper "H" section.Thread on the damper bolt (do not overtighten it will break) and reattach the lockout/rebound dial.
    Last edited by voob; 03-25-2012 at 06:11 AM.

  23. #23
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    Hey Voob,

    Having just serviced my SC 32 fork, I found that the damper tube takes about 83ml to get the level to 63mm from the top. Maybe it's different with a DUC 32?

  24. #24
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    63 mm from top is the correct setting. Use that measurement for the lockout to work. However quantity should be around 95ml (for both forks) according to other posts and Maverick. Use 65 to 85psi of air.

  25. #25
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    thanks yeah i've seen the pdf, i bought this fork 2nd and now realise it may have serious issues. the cable rub and chewing of the big thin alloy nuts were first worrying signs. i have serviced it as per instructions except no sign of internal valve, looking again (my printer isn't great) it seems to be in the bottom of shim stack. i'll come back to that because it isnt my main worry. (zero pressure in damper does what? stop lockdown working?)

    edit: how do you inflate the internal part once it's inside the leg and only damper adjust rod is sticking out?! i must be missing something obvious here

    but my main worry is the odd clunking noise during compression. something is moving where it shouldn't.. the bushes may be sliding? where should they be in the outers? presumably one at end and one mid way up to support the stanchion. mine are both at the end. this may explain both the odd noise during compression and the extra flexibility? if so, now do i reseat them (with the bush tool, where from?), i think that means destroying the seal head to do it, so can I get spare heads anywhere? (will be needed eventually anyway!)

    edit: manual suggests one bush per leg (unstable?!), i appear to have two per leg. perhaps previous owner has replaced Maverick bushes with RS or something else?

    if anyone can tell me the length of a maverick bush that would help please.

    what prompted all this faffing btw, is i had left seal blow out at the weekend and oil my front brake, replaced that with Enduro seal all good there so far, but a bit lose (anything like loctite for plastic?)
    Last edited by Smiff; 03-27-2012 at 06:52 AM.

  26. #26
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    Front brake is on the left leg. Left leg is the airspring. Right leg is the damper to control compression and rebounding.

    If you had the seal pop out of the left leg it means that either you had a black wiper seal ( new ones are blue) or air escaped from the air spring and into the "H" upper leg section creating enough pressure to pop off the wiper seal.
    Air spring needs rebuilding (Check/replace all O-Rings/oil) and while you do that make sure the negative spring is not loose on its clips. (this could be your source of clunking). If netavive spring is loose press ends with pliers onto the clips.
    Usually bushings do not wear out and don't need replacing.

  27. #27
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    thanks voob, helpful!

    yes i have old black seals. it was the left that popped out. enough oil came out to ruin my brake and go all over the tyre too. seal was loose enough that i could easily push it back in by hand, so i just changed it to an Enduro, which is also loose, but at least if the wiper pulls out the seal might stay in (Enduro uses seperate wiper and seal). not sure yet how to secure the seal properly, i think my seal head is slightly stretched or oversized..
    edit: Chris from RWC says glue them in with Silicon sealant (like bathroom sealant i guess..) and let it cure overnight, when they next pop out that's what i'll do!


    not sure if air side needs rebuilding. i have the kit in case. i guess not as its not losing pressure noticeably.

    i will check the negative spring thanks. it didn;t make this clunk before so i probably unclipped that during service.

    any ideas what likely causes click on bar twist?
    can you please confirm there is only bush(es) in lower end of outer? diagrams do not make this clear for me.

    i'll have to pull the fork apart again soon and waste some lube, whoops.
    Last edited by Smiff; 03-27-2012 at 11:30 AM.

  28. #28
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    Post some pictures!!!!

    Enduro seals are not recommended by the "maverick people". The maverick blue seals are pressed into the Main Seal Head with hand pressure, but all surface area needs to be dry and clean. They seal the oil that lubricates the lower leg sliding into the upper "H"section and keep dirt out.. That is their only function.

    Air valves are located on the bottom of the upper leg and can bee seen once the whole leg has been removed from the upper H section and then separated from the lower leg that attaches to the wheel.

    The damper (right leg) is the only leg that requires internal air pressure(65 to 85 psi).
    There is a valve on the left leg but that is a dummy, it does not do anything. The left leg (air spring) air pressure is added at the top of the fork (external) to set the proper sag.

  29. #29
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    just realised the maverick service kit i bought from ebay (Cookson Cycles) has black seals in it.. unless its a really dark blue. could be a very old service kit?! same part number as what fell out: RXZZT00029

    yes i'll post pics. can't do anything now i've lost my 10mm socket. one of those days...

  30. #30
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    Be careful removing the left leg as air pressure can be trapped into upper section and it will shoot out the lower leg (once you loosen the 10mm valve) unless it is held onto the wheel or with a rag through the drop out. Dangerous to you and fork.

  31. #31
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    it's ok i've removed air leg twice before. but good tip will use wheel next time.

    i must have not taken the damper side apart enough to find internal valve

    thanks i'll let you know when i next work on it what happens!

  32. #32
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    al-right folks, time for the next exciting instalment of smiff's sc32 odyssey.

    first, thanks for the person who suggested negative spring clip in. indeed wasn't seated right, and that seems to have solved some of the down-stroke noises.

    So whilst i had the leg out, i got these pics. what do y'all make of this?!
    it really feels like something (top bush?) is sliding up when i insert the leg.
    and fork is very flexible.... i know SC32 always is, but this seems too much.


  33. #33
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    That looks like a normal bushing. The blue wiper seal looks like Enduro?
    Maverick dark blue seals work better.

  34. #34
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    that's 2 bushes together. two bushes in each leg like that is normal then? i don't get why they'd design it with two together, you'd get better stiffness putting one as far up the leg as possible (within the limits of leg extension) and one at the opening.
    the instructions seem to show one longer bush...
    there is nothing higher up inside the leg.. what you see there is it.

    (yep it's an Enduro wiper + seal and it seems to be working fine so i'll leave it for now).

    the fork sounds smooth when compressed manually and pumped, but rattles (the best way i can describe it.. sort of metallic clonking, felt more than heard) when riding fast over roots etc.. any ideas what might cause that please? i guess could be a lot of things.

    i wish i could see what's going on inside fork leg during the stroke! something ain't right.
    Last edited by Smiff; 04-09-2012 at 04:10 PM.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by voob View Post
    That looks like a normal bushing. The blue wiper seal looks like Enduro?
    Maverick dark blue seals work better.
    I installed the Enduro seals on my SC23 because the old dark blue seals were spewing oil like nobodys business. (even had a mall puddle of oil on the ground twice )
    The Enduro seals are supposed to be better at keeping in the oil.

  36. #36
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    Does Maverick Duc have the same service kit with SC 32?

  37. #37
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    Yep, they use the same kit.

  38. #38
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    one more question please... Because of the fact that, Greece has no Maverick Dealer, the various o rings could be found in common o-rings shops? Are they something special?

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by stamatis View Post
    one more question please... Because of the fact that, Greece has no Maverick Dealer, the various o rings could be found in common o-rings shops? Are they something special?
    Greece no ... but France Yes. I have customers in Greece, no worries I can ship Oring to you. Send me email at alpatech@free.fr
    ALPA’TECH Maverick Service Center
    Maverick ML7.2 / SC32
    Maverick ML7.5
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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by stamatis View Post
    one more question please... Because of the fact that, Greece has no Maverick Dealer, the various o rings could be found in common o-rings shops? Are they something special?
    I frequently come to Greece and I ride a Klein Palomino while I am there and I have taken a Maverick Durance for a friend that lives there(Nafplion). I do have all the specs on the O-Rings.Sent me a PM and I can provide the details. What fork/bike do you have?
    You can also look at the service manual for part description.

    http://www.maverickbike.com/cms_images/file_15.pdf

  41. #41
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    Thanks Alpamayo & Voob. I have a Whyte 46 (2007) with Maverick Duc 32 but i am thinking seriously to build a new bike with Maverick ML8 .

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rabies010 View Post
    I installed the Enduro seals on my SC23 because the old dark blue seals were spewing oil like nobodys business. (even had a mall puddle of oil on the ground twice )
    The Enduro seals are supposed to be better at keeping in the oil.
    Did you try new Maverick seals. They do wear out and need replacement after a while.
    Apparently the enduro seals have too much stiction and might wear the Stanchion Tube.


    PROBLEM: Main Seal leaks
    FIRST CHECK A small amount of oil weeping is OK and helps keep the Wiper
    Seal lubricated. If it leaks to the point that oil runs down the
    Stanchion tube, then it needs to be cleaned or replaced. To clean,
    just remove the Stanchion Tube and wipe the sealing lips with a
    clean rag.
    THEN TRY If cleaning doesn't cure it, and the Wiper Seal is BLACK, then
    updating to the newer BLUE Wiper is recommended.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by stamatis View Post
    Thanks Alpamayo & Voob. I have a Whyte 46 (2007) with Maverick Duc 32 but i am thinking seriously to build a new bike with Maverick ML8 .
    The ML8 is a great choice.
    I will be sending a Medium ML8 to Greece in the near future. I do prefer the Durance for the steep climbing that can be found there. But overall the ML8 is more fun!
    Send me your cell number and I will hook you up with Dimitri who has the Durance which you can try (his is with a fox float140mm fork but he would like to try the duc 32). He will be glad to talk to you.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by voob View Post
    The ML8 is a great choice.
    I will be sending a Medium ML8 to Greece in the near future. I do prefer the Durance for the steep climbing that can be found there. But overall the ML8 is more fun!
    Send me your cell number and I will hook you up with Dimitri who has the Durance which you can try (his is with a fox float140mm fork but he would like to try the duc 32). He will be glad to talk to you.
    i sent you pm

  45. #45
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    O-ring specs

    Hi Voob,

    I read in one the Maverick forums that you have the specs and material for the fork O-ring.
    Would you share them to me cause I need to overhaul my suspensions (DUC32, rear Damper and a spare SC32). I have been scouring the web for these specs for a while but no luck.

    And also if you can share some info on the frequently serviced/replaced O-rings in these so that I know how many of each size that I should purchase.

    Thank you very much
    jose

  46. #46
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    [attach]SC32 service kits availibility in the UK-dsc_0733.jpg

    SC32 service kits availibility in the UK-dsc_0736.jpg[/attach]

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