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  1. #1
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    replacing damper oil

    Hello to you all, I am a recent Maverick owner having picked up a second hand 7/5.
    I was loving the ride for the first few hours until the shock suddenly over-extended making
    the d-mount bang into the bottom of the seat tube ( I run a single front ring so have no derailuer).
    Back in the garage, I removed the shock to find the boss cap had totally unscrewed from the damping unit sheding all the oil from the damper.
    I am hoping this was merely down to some incompetent servicing by the prior owner or his lbs as the boss seems to screw back on with no problem.
    However I cannot seem to find a pdf on the Maverick site that details the oil change on a 7/5 damper.
    Can anyone talk me through it or post a suitable link?
    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Fortes Fortuna Iuvat
    Reputation: Datalogger's Avatar
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    The following info comes from the Maverick Frame owners manual:

    To change the oil level, release the air pressure from the shock and remove the core from the schrader valve. Compress the shock completely. Fill a syringe with 3ml of Maverick “Gunna Flow” or other 80w assembly oil and put the tip into the schrader valve hole. Now extend the shock while gently compressing the syringe.This should suck the oil into the shock. Install the schrader core and pressurize. To remove oil, take out the valve core, turn the bike sideways and compress the shock, oil should exit the valve.


    ADVANCED TUNING OF OIL VOLUME:
    If you find you are using too much of the suspension travel or bottoming out too easily, you can add oil to the rear shock to make the spring force firmer in the later stage of the travel. It will not help much with setting proper sag, but it will prevent beginning of the travel from getting harsh if you were to just to increase air pressure to stop bottoming out.
    Factory-set oil volume: ML7: 7ml; ML7/5: 10ml; ML8: 15ml (Maximum total volume: 20ml)
    Maverick Durance Ano-DUC32/C KING/XTR
    Mav ML8 Ano-DUC32/X0
    Mav ML8-DUC32/I9/XTR
    09 Spec. Demo-Totem-Ti DHX
    Norco Team DH

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the quick response.
    I am still unsure though, does this mean that I only have to put 10ml of 80w in through the shrader valve for the whole shock, or is that for the main body. The damper unit has no oil in it at present and the pdf on the Maverick site ( relating to a 7.2 which I know is different) describes removing the floating piston and filling with 5wt oil, pumping to remove air etc replacing the boss and pressurising with a special valve needle. Are their more up to date manuals for the 7/5 damper available?
    Thanks again for your help, but don't stop now

  4. #4
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    exactly this happened to a friend's 7/5 over the weekend - we managed a field repair but the the rear end tops out with a clunk ...

    does the rear 7/5 shock need pressurising like the old 7/2 shock? as far as i can make out from the forums, the manual PDFs and the spare that showed up unexpectedly, then yes -- any confirmation out there? this would presumably also be a cause for topping out just as for the forks when there is too little pressure in the damper cartridge, right?!?

    cheers, ragetty
    Last edited by ragetty; 05-04-2009 at 12:30 PM.

  5. #5
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    I emailed Maverick with this problem and they came right back with a reply, great service!
    They sent me a 7/5 shock service document which details the strip down and rebuild of the damper.
    I haven't started the strip down yet as I need the right oils and grease, but the damper does need pressurising via a shrader valve accessable when the top of the damper is removed.
    If you pm me with an email address I can forward the document.

  6. #6
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    If it tops out with a clunk it is likely an o-ring that got chewed up. If you search you will find a thread where I posted about it happening to my brothers ml7/5 I don't remember exactly what the deal was, but he fixed it himself no problem.

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