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  1. #1
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    Rear Derailleur on a Durance

    Due to some problems with my 2007 X0 long cage RD I may need to replace it.

    Any opinions on the comparative performance with 2011 X9 (I am using gripshifts), and is it worth going to a medium cage version?

    Cheers

    Murray

  2. #2
    Schipperkes are cool.
    Reputation: banks's Avatar
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    I have been using a med cage XO on my ML8 with no problems, so Yes!
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee
    Better suited to non-aggressive 125# gals named Russell.

  3. #3
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    I had long cage without problem, now in short cage on durance and Long on ML8 and no problem. What kind of problem did you meet ?
    Maverick ML7.2 / SC32
    Maverick ML7.5
    Maverick Durance / Duc32
    Maverick ML8 / BOS Devile

    French Maverick Breeder

  4. #4
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    A problem with the chain slipping / skipping on the rear cluster under load, but only on the 32T and next 3x cogs.. I replaced the chain and rear cluster as they were way overdue, but I still have the problem.

    When I line up the upper jockey wheel with the 11T cog the lower jockey wheel is also pretty much in line. When I move the derailleur to the 32T cog and line up the upper jockey wheel the lower jockey wheel is closer to the wheel by about 3-4 mm. In other words it doesn't move in a parallel fashion.

    I posted to the drivetrain forum where they suggested replacing the derailleur hanger which I have done with a new one I bought some time ago. The issue is not as great but it is still there.

    The derailleur doesn't appear to have any play in the parallogram mechanism but it does have some play inside the housing where you bolt it to the hanger. the cage holding the jockey wheels doesn't appear bent and the jockey wheels are in the middle of the cage.

    Any ideas would be gratefully received.

    Cheers

  5. #5
    Schipperkes are cool.
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    You have to align the rear derailleur hanger after it has been installed; once the the QR skewer is tightened correctly, the hanger "sets in place" and it is now not aligned correctly. OEM Maverick hangers are very soft. The Wheels Manufacturing/Derailleuhangers.com are better material.
    You may have the new chain skipping over the worn chain rings.
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee
    Better suited to non-aggressive 125# gals named Russell.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the suggestions. I have a new chain and new cassette, and the Wheels Manufacturing hanger. The only part I haven't replaced is the derailleur hence the original inquiry.

    Interestingly when I pedal under load I can feel something through the rear triangle matched to the rotation of the pedals It doesn't occur when freewheeling. It looks like I need to get someone to watch what is happening whlilst I am underway.

    I guess I need a special toolsto align the hanger...............??

    Cheers

  7. #7
    Schipperkes are cool.
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee
    Better suited to non-aggressive 125# gals named Russell.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by banks
    It's definitely THE tool everybody must have in his toolbox !!!
    Maverick ML7.2 / SC32
    Maverick ML7.5
    Maverick Durance / Duc32
    Maverick ML8 / BOS Devile

    French Maverick Breeder

  9. #9
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    thanks folks, I'll get the derailleur aligned and then have a crack at the chain rings, they are old but well loved!!

    BTW if it is chain rings I'll do the whole crankset, I have an FSA ceramic bb / carbon arms version and had no end of problems with the bb.

    Any recommendations for a heavy (100kg) but respectful rider? Small jumps only. I have SRAM everywhere else.

    Cheers

  10. #10
    Schipperkes are cool.
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    Your cranks are most likely 4 bolt 64mm small and 104mm middle & big rings. At that time, buy all new rings of the same manufacturer: Blackspire if they fit, Shimano XT if they fit.
    If they fit mean if the spider & tabs on the middle & large rings mate flush.
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee
    Better suited to non-aggressive 125# gals named Russell.

  11. #11
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    I thought I would change my chain a while back before a big riding trip. Put it on, now skipped like a bi*&$...Ended up needing to replace the cassette after I put on the new chain and the chain skipped under load. Then I still had some skipping, chain suck, and other funk going on even still. Ended up having to replace the middle and small chain rings. Now it's all good! Changing your chain on time is pretty damn important. I just got the Park tool chain gauge and was surprised to see that I am almost due for a new chain again (been 5 months). Just because your chain isn't breaking doesn't mean it doesn't need to be changed out...it's a lot cheaper than a new drive train!
    Ibis Mojo HDR 650b
    Ibis Mojo SL
    Maverick Durance

  12. #12
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    So I changed the entire crankset, not just the chainrings, as the existing BB was stuffed and had caused the spindle to wear excessively.

    Problem fixed. Thanks eveyone for the suggestions.

    Cheers

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