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  1. #1
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    DUC 32 lockout knob will not turn

    I recently had the fork serviced at Suspension Experts. Had an IFP installed as well as a set of Headlocks while they were there. Kevin and Eric are the fellows whom I spoke with, they are great to deal with.

    Unfortunately upon recieving the forks I noticed the lockout knob would not turn. I removed the damper knob and lockout knob to make sure it wasn't a damaged O ring as per S Experts recommendation but the problem is deeper.

    Ofcourse Suspension Experts are more than willing to stand behind their work, offered to pay shipping and are very appologetic, but before I put them through the hassle and my ride on pause I wanted to ask if anyone here has experienced this.

    I have no problem pulling the damper side stanchion out to look deeper, but I don't want to do anything on my own that would affect the fork tune as I am wanting to use Suspension Experts tune as a baseline to discern what to expect from a Maverick DUC.

    Here's a shot of some paint and logo work I did to the stanchion guards as wel as the pewter ano Headlocks Kevin sold me.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  2. #2
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    I had the same problem on a bike I just bought. The people I bought the bike from said they had it serviced by Luby who has a good reputation and worked for Maverick at one time. I sent him an email and he said it worked when he finished his service.

    I took it apart and removed the 2 mm hex lock tube pin from the piston stud that holds the lock tube in place. I still could not turn the tube or pull it out of the piston stud. So I just put it back together and rode it a couple of times and now it is working. I took one of my other DUC's apart and was able to pull the lock tube out but it took more force than I thought it would. I think the tolerance where this tube fits in the piston stud may be a little close.

    You may just try to loosen the damper rod bolt and then re-tighten it. This lock tube comes out the center of this bolt and maybe it is binding there.

    It is not that difficult to keep the tune the same if you take it apart. The DUC 32 Service manual on the Maverick web site has some pretty good pictures to help. There are basically three things that affect the tune. The shime stack on the piston stud which you don't have to change. The weight of the oil. Just pour the oil into a clean container and put it back in. Then the air pressure in the damper. Just measure the air pressure before you let it all out to take it apart. They normally put about 60 psi in the oil damper. The other thing you can do is compress the oil damper all the way when you have it out and get a feel for the pressure. Then when you put it back together put air in it until you get this same feel. I put 60 psi in mine.

    However, since you have the IFP you want to get all the air out of the oil section. I would assume this procedure would be similar to the ML7.5 rear shock. Check with Kevin or Ethan Franklin who will send you his instructions on doing this.

    I don't use the lock out feature much. I like the front end soft when I climb rocks. I just lean forward more.

  3. #3
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    Thank you for that very helpful and insightful response geweber. I don't imagine I will use the lockout feature that much either as the bottom bracket is pretty low on my bike, but I would like to make it functional so as to determine what will work for me once I get out there. It's been awhile since I've owned a mountain bike and man things have progressed.

  4. #4
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    I find the lockout quite useful for lowering the front end. I had a propensity to either spin my rear tire or flip over backward before I had the lockout front end lower goodness that a DUC provides.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by sxotty View Post
    I find the lockout quite useful for lowering the front end. I had a propensity to either spin my rear tire or flip over backward before I had the lockout front end lower goodness that a DUC provides.
    If I can get it working it will be interesting to experience. It does sound like a luxury to be able to drop the front a little lower for huffing it uphill.

  6. #6
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    BTW in a somewhat tangentially related note.
    What causes the knob to spin completely around?
    My fork is fine, but the fork on my wife's bike has a lockout knob that can just spin in circles. I haven't gotten around to trying to fix it b/c she hasn't ridden much lately (since we had a baby).

  7. #7
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    The damper rod bolt is not tightening. The top of the damper rod has little teeth on it that is suppose to keep the damper rod from turning when you tighten the damper rod bolt. This is the ten mm hex size socket bolt just under the damper knob. With the wheel off compress the oil damper all the way and then try to tighten the bolt. I have had success using a small impact wrench. Be careful not to over torque this bolt. It will break easy. When using the impact wrench the small teeth of the damper rod can dig in all of a sudden and you will over torque if you have the torque setting too high.

    Here is a picture of the teeth at the top of the damper rod.

    DUC 32 damper knob/damper rod bolt turning

    Here is a thread with a similar problem.

    DUC 32 damper knob/damper rod bolt turning

    To see the complete thread click on the "Thread: ...." link in the upper right of the screen.
    Last edited by geweber; 02-19-2012 at 08:45 AM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by geweber View Post
    I took one of my other DUC's apart and was able to pull the lock tube out but it took more force than I thought it would. I think the tolerance where this tube fits in the piston stud may be a little close.
    Just a follow up report. The fit between the lock tube and piston was as you had experienced on yours geweber. A light lapping with fine grit and the lockout functions as normal. Thanks again.

    Quote Originally Posted by geweber View Post
    They normally put about 60 psi in the oil damper. I put 60 psi in mine.
    Mine measured 90 psi. I set it at 60 psi before reassembly. I weigh around 180lbs so I may wish I had left it at 90 psi, but I'm sure I'll end up playing around with the tune once I get familiar with the DUC.

  9. #9
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    You may be correct about the 90 psi. I had mine at 100 psi on the last ride but it was too much. I had to let the air coil pressure down to 40 to 50 psi to get some small bump compliance but then it would dive a little bit. I dropped the oil damper back down to 60 psi and the air coil back up to 75 to 80 and I get overall better performance. I am 150 lbs. You have to experiment with the different tuning options. I have the flat side up on the damper piston to get better small bump compliance. But for your weight I think you would want to let the flat side down as in the stock configuration. Don't forget about adding a little oil in the air coil to increase the progressive compression. At the moment I have about 10 cc in mine.

    This thread has some good info on tuning this fork:

    DC32 to soft for my big Chubby ^ss

  10. #10
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    Tight knob!

    I dig the orange guards!

    Another reason for a tight turning knob is the knob has too close a tolerance within the top cap. If you look at the underside of the green knob where the "wings" are, it has a rounded profile where it meets the cylindrical portion of the knob. This little area can bind with the square edge of the top cap, you may even see the green worn off, give a look see.
    You can file that a bit and it helps a lot.

    Some of the damper rod bolts from a couple years ago did not have truncated threads, meaning they were to good and would bind a bit! So follow gwebers hints, that might help.

  11. #11
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    Thanks again for that geweber, I find the most helpful and polite members in the Maverick section of MTBR, seriously.

    Everything around the knob has ample clearance, infact before it came apart I removed the knobs and tried turning the lock out rod with a tight fitting wrench directly on the hex of the lock out rod and it wouldn't budge. Now that everything is working I'm very pleased with the added function.

    I'm glad you like the stantchion guards Ethan. My bike is a 2011 Titus El Guapo, orange was the only available color. The graphic was reproduced by a close friend and the entire guard has a clear vinyl layer for scratch resistance.

    His work is incredible, I'm hoping to enlist his help to reproduce Maverick logos next. You two should get together and see about the feasability of producing a batch, folks around here would line up to hand you their money should they become available.

  12. #12
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    this sounds picky but....

    I recommend that you swap the q/r lever safety clips with each other. The way you have them and the stanchion guards assembled leaves them on the outside of the levers and they are vulnerable should you ever crash or hit some rocky trail debris. Switch them and they will be safer on the inside of the lever, and you can rest easy at night....

    Also, I would love to see a full pic of your ride with the DUC and those cool colored guards. Add it to the "Post Your Maverick" thread when you get a chance.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by g_henrys View Post
    I recommend that you swap the q/r lever safety clips with each other. Switch them and they will be safer on the inside of the lever, and you can rest easy at night....
    Good catch, I'll take care of that before the next ride. Thank you.

    Quote Originally Posted by g_henrys View Post
    Also, I would love to see a full pic of your ride with the DUC and those cool colored guards. Add it to the "Post Your Maverick" thread when you get a chance.
    I'm a little reluctant to do so on account of my bike being a Titus rather than the Durance I had considered before I made this purchase. If it's not an offense to post a non Maverick in the sticky I will happily do so, I'm not sure if simply having a DUC on my bike qualifies me to post in that section.

  14. #14
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    it qualifies.... "Maverick Equipped" as we say. I am pretty open-minded and approve of inter-racial marriages - in this case Titus and Maverick.

  15. #15
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    just post the fork ...
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee
    Better suited to non-aggressive 125# gals named Russell.

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