DC32 to soft for my big Chubby ^ss
Sorry I bet this has been cover before (I did look on the first ten pages)
In any case I have one of the copper color DC32 that came O.E.M. on the fisher's (don't know if that makes any difference) on my 29er fisher superfly, I'm 6,2' and about 240pounds and the shocks bottom out with very little effort, dropping down and sidewalk, hell even braking hard.
So the question is where do I start, I'm very mechanical incline but I have no clue what make the Maverick fork work.
Thanks in advance
The brake diving is due to the damper cartridge being low on it's charge. That Trek 69r DUC is an odd bit internally as it's a true 100mm of travel and has a IFP in the damper chamber. You will also need a 6nm "yellow" negative spring.
Originally Posted by mikesee
I ride so slow, your Garmin will shut off.
how do I charge it...??
Originally Posted by banks
That Trek 69r DUC is an odd bit internally as it's a true 100mm of travel and has a IFP in the damper chamber. You will also need a 6nm "yellow" negative spring.
Do you guys have a manual I can read online..? so I can understand how everything works.
Thanks for the help
MAVERICK - Manual PDFs
Tuning guide from Maverick
DUC32 112mm & SC32 88mm 29er set-up guide - overview
35cc of oil in air cartridge.
Use less for lighter riders/more for heavy riders.
Maximum oil volume in air cartridge = 44cc
Standard negative spring (5Nm) for most riders up to 180lbs.
6Nm spring (heavy) for big riders 185lbs +
Stock oil is good for light riders. Stock = 8wt.
10wt oil for medium wt. riders 150 – 190lbs
15wt for heavy riders 190 – 225lbs
Stock shim stack - is good for most
Damper pressure (bottom of internal cartridge valve) 85psi - most riders.
This can be used to tune bottom out resistance, max = 100psi.
Install 29er spacers into fork per 29er installation instructions.
The 29er fork set-up should not need more than approximately 10% more pressure than that of the standard 26” forks PSI listed for the rider weight in the fork manual.
See below information for more in-depth tuning
The damper can be tuned several ways to accommodate different rider weights, ride style and terrain.
In stock form, the fork can accommodate riders from 140 to 190lbs and then can be internally tuned for personal preference.
1. Damper pressure: This can be adjusted from 60psi to 100psi to change the overall progressiveness
at the bottom of the forks stroke (stock is 120psi).
2. Oil viscosity: increasing oil viscosity (thicker) will slow rebound range down with a minimal increase in compression damping. Lighter viscosity will increase rebound speed with less compression damping.
3. Shims: The shim stack can be manipulated to accommodate medium to larger hits. Stock form will accommodate most riders, even with changing oil viscosity to accommodate slower or faster rebound control.
Oil viscosity in damper guide:
! 8wt oil: average rider weight (stock) approx: 140-180lbs
! 5wt oil : lighter rider, faster rebound approx: 100-150lbs
! 10wt oil: average rider weight, slower rebound approx: 140-180lbs
! 12wt oil: heavier rider, regular rebound range approx: 170-205lbs
! 15wt oil: heavier rider weight slower rebound approx: 190-230lbs
Main air chamber cartridge guide:
Adding or subtracting oil volume from the main air cartridge will affect the progressiveness (spring rate) of the fork.
Stock oil volume is 35 - 40cc. Viscosity of oil in air chamber will not affect performance. Maverick recommends Fox’s Float Fluid or SRAM’s Red Rum. This will provide the best lubrication for the main piston o-ring. 10-15wt oil will substitute.
Air cartridge oil volume guide:
25 - 30cc of oil for lighter riders – approx 100 – 140lbs rider weight
30 - 40cc of oil for average riders – approx 145 – 185lbs rider weight
35 - 44cc of oil for bigger riders – approx 185 – 225lbs rider weight
Stock 5Nm spring will accommodate main air spring pressures from 85psi – 115psi.
For bigger riders, a heavier spring may be necessary to control top out and small bump compliance at higher air pressures. 6Nm spring for pressures over 115psi will help overall feel.
Negative spring guide:
4Nm negative spring (Grn): 70 – 85psi for light riders 100 – 135lbs
5Nm negative spring(no color): (stock) 85 – 115psi /140 – 185lbs
6Nm negative spring(Yel): 115 – 150psi for heavier riders 175 – 225lbs
Lower pressures with a heavier negative spring may cause the fork to not fully extend and effectively lower ride height.
Higher pressures and a lighter negative spring will fully extend the fork, but may cause hard top out feel, but give the fork a firmer feel at the top of its travel.
Setting oil volume in air cartridge:
! Remove star air cap on left leg, release air pressure.
! Remove Schrader valve core with a core tool.
! Over a small drip pan turn fork upside down, with valve hole over pan, cycle fork a few times to remove all oil in air cartridge.
! Under Main Air Cartridge Guide above, with small syringe, install oil into Schrader core hole, following the desired tuning guide volumes.
! Reinstall Schrader core.
! Pressurize with standard shock pump to appropriate PSI.
Installing New Negative Spring:
! Follow online DUC service guide to remove legs from uppers and removing cartridges from lower stanchions.
! Unscrew upper silver 21mm seal head nut and pull out air piston and assembly rod.
! We recommend fully cleaning all assembly parts of old oil and debris.
! Slide silver seal head nut and of off air rod.
! With a small flat head screw driver unseat the current negative spring from the main air piston and upper spring guide, by putting driver in-between end of spring and plastic piston and twisting.
! If new spring has paint on it, we recommend you remove the paint and clean spring off.
! Push (snap) upper plastic spring guide onto new spring
! Slide spring onto air rod; make sure top out o-ring is in place.
! Snap spring onto main air piston perch. (careful not to damage main piston o-ring)
! Fill the clean, empty air tube with the appropriate oil volume for rider weight from above air cartridge oil volume guide.
! Slather main air piston o-ring with “slick honey” grease or the like.
! Slide and silver seal head onto air rod.
! Slide air piston assembly into air tube.
! Put 1-2cc of oil on top of assembly to keep o-ring in oil at all times.
! Screw silver seal head nut into tube and tighten to 40-50in/lb.
! Reinstall air cartridge per assembly instructions.
Oh this is perfect, I'm going for a ride right now I tell you guys later how the air adjustment work and then during the week I will take the forks apart and play with the oid density and amount.
Originally Posted by voob
Thanks this is great info
Give me an e-mail shout to email@example.com
Originally Posted by patineto
I have all the ins and out for the fork for you. I also can get it dailed in for you, give a shou and we can go from there!!
Thanks Ethan let me get my hand dirty a little to become in tune with the forks and then I write you (wrenching sometimes is more fun than riding)
Originally Posted by Ethan F
That little change on the air pressure made a world of difference, still not perfect but at least is ridable now..
Thanks, guys, this thread is just what I needed. I picked up a used Durance/DUC32 from a guy who's about 10-15 lbs lighter than I and apparently much more of a finesse rider, as my DUC bottoms rather easily as well. I upped the air pressure, it helped, next is to bump the oil volume and/or viscosicty in the air side & see what happens.
Anybody run the thick stuff-15wt oil--in their DUC's? I'm 150lbs, running 90 psi, and it still seems soft, and I happen to have some 15wt red rum left over from a Rock Shox project.
The above set up is for 29" wheel. It is different for 26"wheel
Originally Posted by AcuNinja
You should call Ethan and get a fork rebuilt kit. Its good to refresh/replace some of the o-rings.
I think he will also help you with the proper set up for your weight and ride preference
You should also get good fork oil from a motorcycle shop. Stay away from Finish Line oil.
These forks require cleaning and oil changes every so often to work as intended. Read the fork manual and set up guide.
To start I would recommend:
(For 26" wheel)
95cc (or 63mm from top) of 5 or 10 weight oil with 65 to 85 psi of pressure ( higher pressure will help with bottom out).
Oil viscosity in damper guide:
• 5wt oil : lighter rider(100-150lbs ) faster rebound
• 10wt oil: average rider weight(140-180lbs) slower rebound
• 12wt oil: heavier rider (170-205lbs) regular rebound range
Air spring/eft leg:
Air cartridge oil volume guide:
Adding or subtracting oil volume/viscosity from the main air cartridge(below the piston head) will affect the progressiveness (spring rate) of the fork.
Start by Using 5 to10 weight oil ( 15 might be too thick)
15cc of oil for lighter riders – approx 100 – 140lbs rider weight
20cc of oil for average riders – approx 145 – 185lbs rider weight
25cc of oil for bigger riders – approx 185 – 225lbs rider weight
Maverick recommends Fox’s Float Fluid or SRAM’s Red Rum (above the piston head). 10-15wt oil will substitute. This will provide the best lubrication for the main piston o-ring.
To get full fork leg extension you will need about 90to 100 PSI. Lower pressure to get to 25% sag. If leg does not extend fully you will need a lighter negative spring.
If you are still bottoming out or brake dive you should add more oil to the main air chamber through the air valve by removing its core.
You can also remove oil this way if fork is too progressive.
I am sure Ethan will provide you with a better set up.
15wt in the cartridge on the damper side will make for a real harsh lock-out set-up for someone weighing only 150lbs, and higher cartridge pressure would also negatively affect suppleness (at 150lbs rider weight) - i would suggest looking to solve the issue elsewhere ...
AciNija may just have the problem that the oil level is too low on the air cartridge side, as the 90psi air pressure is already more than i ride for the same rider weight - if he picked up the DUC32 from a still lighter rider, this could very likely be the case.
i believe that the oil viscosity on the air cartridge side is irrelevent, it's just there to shape the progression and lubricate.
Last edited by ragetty; 02-27-2012 at 01:15 AM.
Most of Travis Brown forks from the factory we're set up pretty poorly!
I have a full instruction document for that specific fork if you'd like!
E-mail me or PM me and I'll send it along! (anyone for that matter)
I have some very cool custom parts that i make for that fork as well as all 29ers DUC/SC's.
The amount of oil needed in the air chamber migrates over time to the top of the piston (bad). No one quite knows why this happens (a long thread is on this subject on the suspension forum on Fox forks...!)
I make a custom sized spacer, sealed with a quad ring to mimic the oil volume. But the spacer will not change over time. As people have experienced the fork getting more and more linear over time, then bottom out all the time
Anyway give a shout and we can get you the set-up sheet... And can give more info on my AVR (air volume reducer). This is also cool in that you only need 5cc of lube oil to start and can tune that from there.
Thanks for the info, gentlemen. I know I picked the right fork/bike because of its immense tunability. I'm stoked about the fact that there are people out there tweaking & tuning like you guys, and professionals, like Ethan.
I do believe the fork was just gone through by Maverick/Ethan just before I bought the bike, (I'm near their factory), and I think Raggety is spot on about the fact that the fork is likely low on oil (for me), given that it's dialed for a finesse-style 140 lb rider, and I'm more aggressive and 10 lbs heavier.
The tuning process is actually enjoyable and interesting, and at this point I'm so stoked on Maverick, I just wish I could find another Durance cheap, to convert to a fat bike. Next season, perhaps.
I'm gonna pick up some 10 wt oil, and add a bit to the air side. I'll report back after a few rides.
Yeah I used to bottom out my TBrown DUC 32 all the time. Ethan's tune mostly got rid of that. My riding style still finds that full travel though.