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  1. #1
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    so I TEST ROAD A MOUNT VISION, QUESTIONS?

    Last weekend I test road a Mount vision, 2009- it was a friends ride. It was a size medium. If I am to buy one it will be a large so not sure if that has anything to do with my findings.

    I currently ride a size large 24"TT Diamondback Mission with 150mm travel front and rear. My DB climbs better than the 120mm Mount Vision, which was surprising considering the difference in travel. The MV kept wanting to wheelie while climbing. My DB front end stays planted. I am thinking it may have been wheeling cuz the medium MV has a wheelbase that is 2 inches shorter than my DB. The size large MV would have a wheelbase that is 1.5 inches shorter than my DB.

    Question- would running a 140mm fork on the MV increase the wheelbase? If so by how much?

    I can say that in turns the rear end on the MV felt much more solid than my DB= almost hardtail like!

    I really want to like the MV but am worried about the climbing issue that I experienced.

    Anyone have any ideas?
    Last edited by dragbike; 11-21-2010 at 12:58 PM.

  2. #2
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    To my surprise, short 70 mm stem made Mount Vision more stable on climbs.

    Running a 140 mm fork will void your warranty, the dealers usually say. But new Mount Vision (2011) has 140 mm front and rear, maybe it's worth to take a look? Same great suspension design, more trail/AM-oriented.

  3. #3
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    tech guy at Marin said not to run any thing over 130mm cause of the position of the quad links and how they are designed to work. BUT the A-C height of a Rock shox 130 mm fork is about the same as the A-C height of a 140 mm fox. I mentioned thsi cause I have been debating on which one to get, and he said just don't go over 130mm. I left me kinda confused. there are some threads with guys sayng the performance is better with a 130 or 140 fork.

    As for climbing were you centering your weight? I dig the way my MV climbs.

  4. #4
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    I am 6'0 and comfortably ride a medium 09 MV with a 130mm Manitou Minute MRD fork.
    To combat some of the front lift, I run a 90mm stem, zero setback seatpost and have the seat moved a bit forward.
    This "weight shift" also benefits cornering by keeping the front tire nicely planted.
    I usually run a heavier tire (2.35, 2.4) up front and adjusting your body position (when climbing) is also part of the mix.
    Your body will adjust and mostly do this for you after a bit of ride time anyway.
    Once you are acclimated to riding a MV you won`t think much about it.

    I have had 3 Marins, A 2002 aluminum hardtail, 2006 east peak and the current 2009 MV. They all have been a bit lite up front but great bikes.
    Last edited by card; 11-21-2010 at 08:21 PM.

  5. #5
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    2011 MV is radically different to the 2009. Which year are you buying? Why are you looking at buying a MV as compared to your DB mission? They also increased wheel base on 2010 .
    The chainstay is 20 mm shorter on the 2009 MV than the DB mission which makes it weight sensitive when climbing and doesn't respond to a longer fork very well. But in saying that it digs in and climbs well and manuals really well over humps with good technique.
    I've had a 140 float on and it was ok[ I wouldn't rave about it]. I had a 140 manitou minute and didn't like it. The std Fox f120 performs better than the 140 minute anyway. There's good 120mm of travel and bad 140mm of travel. The longer fork doesn't increase wheelbase of any significance but has the reverse effect of putting to much weight rearward.You can offset it but it doesn't feel as neutral and balanced as std set up.
    I'm using a spare gary fisher G2 geometry F120 fork on it at the moment which increases the wheelbase by 10mm. I thought it would speed the steering up to much but some how it feels pretty good.
    How's your friend got his shock set up .It should have low enough pressure to be very active, approx .92 to .95 psi / lb rider weight. It does ramp up at the end of the travel. The 2010 is better. It does however use some of the shock travel moving rearward to give that very plush feel over small bumps and take the edge off tree roots etc. It feels as good and better than some 140 mm bikes I have ridden . But then I didn't get a chance to tune them.
    Only grip I have is it's weight and it is too high for it's wheelbase.

  6. #6
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    I'm looking at buying a 2009 MV frame. I like the DB Mission I'm riding except the rear end feels pretty flexy. The MV i rode was much more solid in this area. An online retailer is selling the 09 MV's at a very attractive price.

    I run a Fox 140mm fork on the DB and would want to carry it over to the MV. Another thing I noticed on my friends MV was the center of his seat was centered much more rearward than the seat on my DB (drawing a straight line down from seat center to the rear chain stay- and this was with a 130mm RS fork- which has the same axle to crown as my Fox 140mm). He also has his seat slid way back on its rails to try to compensate for the medium frame which he now feels is too short for him.

    If I buy the MV I would be running a 90mm stem. Seems like running a shorter stem would make it even squirrlier on climbs?

    Latly- Can anyone tell me what the standover height is on the large MV? Marins website does not list it.

    Thanks guys!!

  7. #7
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    I have a medium 2009 MV. I did find it somewhat wheelie prone during some types of climbs when I first started riding it, but the thing climbs amazingly well in my experience. I wheelie way less than before which leads me to believe it was body English, not so much the bike. If I get my weight positioned just right the thing climbs just fine without the wheelies. The trick for me has been finding that spot given the situation.

    I am curious about the fork thing too. I hear that some of the North Shore folks, who apparently use the MV over the WR and many other bikes because it climbs so well, put a Pike on the MV and it works well. I am not sure what else is being done to set them up. So far I can't say that I feel a need for more squish but when I do that's probably what I'll look into.

    If you think the rear end of the MV plants and is stable in stock form, put a Maxle in it. The improvement in climbing and cornering was noticeable, and it already felt extremely good.
    "This is my favorite section...watch your step..."

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DesertCrawler

    If you think the rear end of the MV plants and is stable in stock form, put a Maxle in it. The improvement in climbing and cornering was noticeable, and it already felt extremely good.
    I second the Maxle kit.
    It is a great addition and well worth the money!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dragbike
    I'm looking at buying a 2009 MV frame. I like the DB Mission I'm riding except the rear end feels pretty flexy. The MV i rode was much more solid in this area. An online retailer is selling the 09 MV's at a very attractive price.

    I run a Fox 140mm fork on the DB and would want to carry it over to the MV. Another thing I noticed on my friends MV was the center of his seat was centered much more rearward than the seat on my DB (drawing a straight line down from seat center to the rear chain stay- and this was with a 130mm RS fork- which has the same axle to crown as my Fox 140mm). He also has his seat slid way back on its rails to try to compensate for the medium frame which he now feels is too short for him.

    If I buy the MV I would be running a 90mm stem. Seems like running a shorter stem would make it even squirrlier on climbs?

    Latly- Can anyone tell me what the standover height is on the large MV? Marins website does not list it.

    Thanks guys!!
    That's why it is wheeling everywhere and the rear end feels dead. Too small a frame, seat set to far back and too long a fork. This frame design is very weight shift sensitive. Lean back over a lip and feel the rear end hinge at the high pivot and manual over the bumps. That's what makes it a hoot to ride around single track and off berms and lips but it's too short in the wheelbase to ever be a great descender. It's a lively descender and absorbs a lot of punishment though. The frame is very well built and will last a long time. If you set your weight back on the frame with the seat and tall fork it changes the feel of the rear suspension.

    You could try the 140 fox and see how it goes. If you do all mountain type riding[ up the road and down the tracks] then it will probably be ok . You can space it down to 120 and you will see how you change the character of the frame. Space it back up to 130 as Marin says and you probably have a good compromise for single track / all mountain. Leave it at 120 if you want the best overall handling though.
    I've got a Giant trance which i put the 140 forks on every once and a while. You can feel the steering has slowed up but due to the frame design it has no effect on the rear suspension at all. Different to the MV.

  10. #10
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    Another option would also be to drop in a 650b rear wheel with the 140 fork.

  11. #11
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    And you could also kick out the head angle with a Cane creek Angleset. This will give a bit longer wheelbase,bit lower front end and a more downhill friendly head angle. The slacker head angle with the relatively short wheelbase still works fine around single track[ wolf ridge]. Just have to carve a bit more than point and shoot.

    http://www.bikeradar.com/news/articl...ad-angle-26646

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by gvs_nz
    And you could also kick out the head angle with a Cane creek Angleset
    The new AngleSet is [...] is suitable for both tapered (1.125in to 1.5in) and 1.5in head tubes.
    According to the specs and some tech thoughts, it's not suitable for 1.125" head tube like on MV. Old MV didn't have a tapered head tube.

  13. #13
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    thanks for all the feedback guys. Looks like I'm gonna stick with my DB Mission frame for now. Maybe next spring some good deals on 2010 MV frames will pop up and I'll revisit.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by denis.gorchakov
    The new AngleSet is [...] is suitable for both tapered (1.125in to 1.5in) and 1.5in head tubes.
    According to the specs and some tech thoughts, it's not suitable for 1.125" head tube like on MV. Old MV didn't have a tapered head tube.
    Knew there had to be a catch. The K9 industries one was for 1.5" only . So the Cane Creek one is only useful to tweak the 2011 MV.
    Last edited by gvs_nz; 11-27-2010 at 09:42 PM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by dragbike
    thanks for all the feedback guys. Looks like I'm gonna stick with my DB Mission frame for now. Maybe next spring some good deals on 2010 MV frames will pop up and I'll revisit.
    Yeh at $1400 the 5.8 frame isn't bargain basement at the moment. Stunning looking frame though. 2010 and 2011 they have really hit the spot in the looks dept.

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