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  1. #1
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    Mount Vision Maxle kit dropout.

    Hi guys.
    I know that the Maxle Kit is an excellent upgrade to make our stiff bikes even stiffer. But my question is... Does anybody know if the actual dropouts that come with the kit are of better quality ( stronger ) than a regular dropout? Or is it the same aluminum quality but just red?

  2. #2
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    The brake side seems to be the same.
    The drive side is beefier where the axle threads into, but the back side has some material removed for weight savings.
    I have not had any issues with the Maxle kit on my bike.
    No creaking, no bolts coming loose and I did not even use lock tight.
    I have two images I will try to post when I get back to my machine latter today.

  3. #3
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    After looking some more, both sides where the Maxle axle goes though are beefed up.
    Both sides have some material removed on the back side.
    The images were taken with the bike upside down.

    The brake side seems to be the same.
    The drive side is beefier where the axle threads into, but the back side has some material removed for weight savings.
    I have not had any issues with the Maxle kit on my bike.
    No creaking, no bolts coming loose and I did not even use lock tight.
    I have two images I will try to post when I get back to my machine latter today.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mount Vision Maxle kit dropout.-01.09.11-brakesidemaxle-01.jpg  

    Mount Vision Maxle kit dropout.-01.09.11-drivesidemaxle-01.jpg  


  4. #4
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    Sorry danvar, I did not answer your original question about the quality or type of the aluminum used for the rear Maxle dropouts. I do not know???
    There is physically more material in the Maxle dropouts so I would say they would / should be stronger ???.The fact that the axle is “locked in place” and does not rotate means there will not be much wear.

    I only have one bike, the MV and it sees dual duty road and dirt each week.
    I have two sets of wheels that get changed several times a week.
    I have not seen any “slop” developing in the Maxle drop outs or any wear showing on the thru axle from the frequent wheel changes.

    I did find some additional documentation from my bike build that may or may not help.

    - Rock Shock / Sram Rear Maxle Kit, 135x12mm
    - Marin Part # PDO-8AEMX-135N
    - Dropouts = 114g (this is both dropouts, I should have weighed them separately)
    - Axle = 104g
    - Dropout bolts (4) = 32g
    - Total = 250g

    Last resort, call Marin.

  5. #5
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    Hi card. Thanks for the info. They do look beefier on the pictures. Unfortunately I hadn't noticed that these dropouts do not accept quick release. You see, what I was planning on doing was to purchase this kit just so i could use the dropouts with the current setup I have now (Sun Ringle Disc Jockey Hub). They actually look very similar to yours. Are those disc jockeys too? If they are it could give me hope cause I really don't want to change hubs but would maybe try and modify it to turn it into a 12mm.

  6. #6
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    Maybe some machining magic would enable you to use the 12mm rear setup in your hubs.
    I have seen other posts on this website where folks have made inserts and or axles for different hubs to accept different sizing.

    Both sets of my wheels are equipped with Hope pro2 hubs front and rear.
    Hope is very nice product, offering several axle sizing kits.
    All I can say is the 12mm rear Maxle kit is so nice on the MV.
    If you can get it on your bike you would be pleased.
    I run Hope pro2 front hubs with a DT Swiss RWS 9mm thru QR which works nicely for my riding.
    Overall it makes a very nice platform to have fun on.

  7. #7
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    card that's a very nice looking MV!
    Man I've never seen a bike this clean outside of LBS, and you're riding in dirt!
    How do you get it so clean?

    P.S. What sort of gear cables do you run on it? (Are these XTR?)

  8. #8
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    I've had mine on for about six months now, and it was worth the investment. A couple of things I've noticed though:

    1. Make sure, before every ride, the wheel is secure. I've had the axle loosen up on me several times. There are two threading options. One, the axle "inside" the axle that acts as the traditional quick release. This needs to be tightened independently. Thread the axle in all the way so it's secure in the drop outs, flip the qr lever out and turn until it tightens. This will make the flipping of the qr lever tougher to do, like a traditional quick release. Very important that you keep up with this, as it will loosen up.

    2. It might be beefier, but the hanger can still bend, but since it's so beefy, bending it back is no big deal. I've had to do it about three times now.

    I hope I explained that well.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Talisker4life
    card that's a very nice looking MV!
    Man I've never seen a bike this clean outside of LBS, and you're riding in dirt!
    How do you get it so clean?

    P.S. What sort of gear cables do you run on it? (Are these XTR?)
    Images were from the build, it had not gotten dirty yet.
    Both cable sets are Sram flax jacket.
    Last edited by card; 01-19-2011 at 05:55 PM.

  10. #10
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    My Maxle works it selfloose almost every ride. How do I tighten the inside axle you are talking about. I love the stiffness but loosening it startign to piss me off. There is almost no resistance when I close the lever. Not anything like my Fork's Maxle.

  11. #11
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    Think of it as tightening a regular skewer.
    For the most part that’s all it is, a big skewer.
    Loosen the Maxle handle a bit on the brake side.
    Then tighten (a little at a time) the “knob” that protrudes (on the drive side) from the Maxle axle center.
    Then tighten down the flip lever on the brake side until it is on the tight side.

    I attached the Maxle instructions, hope that makes sense and helps.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by card; 01-22-2011 at 12:26 PM.

  12. #12
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    It's tight now!

    Thanks dude. I am such a DA that I have gone this long with it not set up properly.

  13. #13
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    Another way to think about it is that the outer housing is the "axle" for the hub and also connects the rear suspension members together with its own tensioning mechanism.
    The “inners” (being inside of but independent from the outer housing) act as the skewer providing the needed tension.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by card
    Think of it as tightening a regular skewer.
    For the most part that’s all it is, a big skewer.
    Loosen the Maxle handle a bit on the brake side.
    Then tighten (a little at a time) the “knob” that protrudes (on the drive side) from the Maxle axle center.
    Then tighten down the flip lever on the brake side until it is on the tight side.

    I attached the Maxle instructions, hope that makes sense and helps.
    That's how you do it!
    It took me several rides, and loose wheels to understand the mechanism, but now that sucker stays tight.

  15. #15
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    Hello, can you help me with advice?
    any ideas to use this tool - Sram Rear Maxle Kit, 135x12mm - whis DT swiss 240s rear hub. Didn't find the 135x12 hub in the dtswiss.com(((

    p.s. sry for english and stupid question)

  16. #16
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    DT Swiss does not have a rear 135x12 240 series hub / kit.

    http://www.dtswiss.com/Products/Comp...Hubs/240s.aspx

    There are only a few manufactures that offer a 135x12mm rear.

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    yes i saw....but i asked about converting , may be i should buy some spares to convert another dtswiss240 to 135x12? or no chance? want an axle in my MV but dont want pro2))

  18. #18
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    Take the inserts out and determine if a 12mm shaft will fit through the hub body.
    If there is enough material in the end caps, look at machining or opening them up.

  19. #19
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    Sorry, repost
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by card; 02-07-2011 at 11:04 AM. Reason: repost

  20. #20
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    A really dumb question...

    So, I'm assuming that if one want's to go the upgrade not only do you need the new hangers (which for some reason I'm finding real hard to get hold of here in Oz) but you need to replace the whole rear hub too? If that is the case, any recommendations for a good (but also good value) rear hub?

    Thanks all

  21. #21
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    Yes, you need a new hub. I got a Hadley, and it works great. Cheaper than a King, 72 point engagement.

  22. #22
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    I have put many XC / Trail ride miles on my Hope Pro2 hubs with no problems.
    Hope offers several different inserts for different size axles.
    There are other (better) hubs, but the Hope Pro2 have taken some beatings and keep on kicking.
    Easy to service as well.

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