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  1. #1
    b3n
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    2010 Attack Trail: pictures?

    Hi,

    can you post your 2010 Attack Trail pics? I'm interested in the 6.8 model and I can't see it aynwhere in the flesh, so I thought to ask your collaboration! I think I should go with the large... how much "gate" is it?

    Thank you, guys!

    b3n

  2. #2
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    Not sure what gate is but here are some pictures, and an action shot to show you it can handle allot... pretty crappy shot but that is like a 25-30ft stepdown





  3. #3
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    What upgrades you made to that mate, you ride in britain and would my wolf ridge be able to take that abuse? Cheers jonty

  4. #4
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    I put some saint brakes on it, saint cranks, a thompson 50mm stem, sunline 29.5 bars, e13 lg1 guide, straitline pedals, sdg ti fly saddle and some maxxis minion dh casing tires (not in the picture). I am not sure about the mount vision bike either I have no experience with it.

  5. #5
    b3n
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    That's a really cool looking bike! Thank you.

  6. #6
    Yes, that's fonetic
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    Quote Originally Posted by giffels
    that is like a 25-30ft stepdown
    Would that be in Pinkbike units?

  7. #7
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    No internet units, that is in tape measure units

  8. #8
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    hows that thing handle XC?
    "If Liberace was alive, he'd be proud to ride that mofo."

  9. #9
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    It climbs remarkably well for how I have it set up, and descends amazing... but time for a new bike so this things up to go to a new home

  10. #10
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    Taking my Wolfridge to Whistler,bike park and trails. Hopefully holds up.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by spadmike
    Taking my Wolfridge to Whistler,bike park and trails. Hopefully holds up.
    Let me know how it goes dude

  12. #12
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    The older, inbred brother to the Attack Trail... less travel, more teeth...

    10mm less travel but who's counting.

    these things rip!!!

    l have been a HUGE HUGE fan of the Quake -- bought pretty much one each year they came out. l never stocked any of the Wolf Ridge models simply because l thought it wasn't going to sell well in our area. A couple weeks ago, l bought one for myself just for kicks... just to check it out. DANG!!! sweet ride and for my risk/ride level, it'll do all the stuff l can do on the Quake.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2010 Attack Trail: pictures?-wookie-wolf-ridge.jpg  

    2010 Attack Trail: pictures?-wolf-ridge.jpg  

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  13. #13
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    Here the frame. More parts on the way.
    " width="549">

  14. #14
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    Where did you get a bare frame? Hoping theres an online store flogging them off cheap.........

  15. #15
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    I got this on a warranty return. Broke my MV and for a small fee, they sent me this big sucker!

  16. #16
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    One more piece:

    " width="549">

  17. #17
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    Complete 2010 Attack Trail

    Finished it last night and took it for a ride this morning. Really, really good bike.

    " width="549">

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    How does the pedalling/uphill compare to the MV? Often wonder if I could use one of these as my xc bike and get away with it, but being an old DHer I if it was much worse than my MV (140mm fork, same wheel/similar tyre setup to you) I would struggle to not be reduced to a gibbering mess by the end of a ride. Too many of my mates are hammerheads and my "dont brake - dont pedal" mantra only gets me so far.

  19. #19
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    It pedals almost exactly the same, and as well as the MV. No kidding. I set the shock on the firmer side, and it rocks. It handles all the square rocks, roots the same, just propelling you over them, and the balance is great. It's a big heavier, but that's what the small ring is for. I'll report back after I've had more saddle time, but so far, really, really nice.

  20. #20
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    mas pics
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2010 Attack Trail: pictures?-dsc02944.jpg  

    2010 Attack Trail: pictures?-dsc02941.jpg  

    2010 Attack Trail: pictures?-dsc02946.jpg  

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  21. #21
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    Here's a few more;

    " width="549">

  22. #22
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    Very nice looking build
    Please update us with fit, feel and handling details after a few miles.

  23. #23
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    Well, I've ridden for a few weeks now, and here's my initial report.

    All accounts are true that it climbs well. The Quad Link suspension is the same on the MV as on the AT. It devours square edge hits, propelling you up and over them. However, this bike is not meant for the sharp edged technical terrain we have here in Austin, and here's why I think that.

    This bike was made to go down things, plain and simple. The suuuuuper slack 66 degree head tube will tell you that. The low bottom bracket also means that going down (hill) is this bikes true love. It will tolerate the climbs, but the steep head angle makes the slow going up the steep technical stuff a challenge, as the front end will wander. It takes quite a bit more control and body english to keep a good line when you're rock crawling up the hills. After the first ride, by arms were sore from having to muscle the bike up and over the ledges.

    The low bottom bracket assures a stable bike at high speeds, which is does well. However, for everyday use out here in Austin, it's not ideal. Like I said, we have lots and lots of rock ledges that are part of the trail, and the pedals are constantly bashing into the rocks. I've had to totally adjust how I pedal up hill to compensate, which isn't cool. I like to sit and spin up the technical stuff, standing only when necessary, so the low bottom bracket height does not jive with my style, and if you have to stand and pedal on this bike, it defeats the purpose of having such a good climbing suspension design.

    I have yet to try any of the super fast single track we have here, but I'm sure it will handle that with ease, and it's true colors will shine.

    The bike feels very solid and stiff, but for everyday Austin use, it's not the weapon of choice.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by pulpwoody
    Well, I've ridden for a few weeks now, and here's my initial report.

    All accounts are true that it climbs well. The Quad Link suspension is the same on the MV as on the AT. It devours square edge hits, propelling you up and over them. However, this bike is not meant for the sharp edged technical terrain we have here in Austin, and here's why I think that.

    This bike was made to go down things, plain and simple. The suuuuuper slack 66 degree head tube will tell you that. The low bottom bracket also means that going down (hill) is this bikes true love. It will tolerate the climbs, but the steep head angle makes the slow going up the steep technical stuff a challenge, as the front end will wander. It takes quite a bit more control and body english to keep a good line when you're rock crawling up the hills. After the first ride, by arms were sore from having to muscle the bike up and over the ledges.

    The low bottom bracket assures a stable bike at high speeds, which is does well. However, for everyday use out here in Austin, it's not ideal. Like I said, we have lots and lots of rock ledges that are part of the trail, and the pedals are constantly bashing into the rocks. I've had to totally adjust how I pedal up hill to compensate, which isn't cool. I like to sit and spin up the technical stuff, standing only when necessary, so the low bottom bracket height does not jive with my style, and if you have to stand and pedal on this bike, it defeats the purpose of having such a good climbing suspension design.

    I have yet to try any of the super fast single track we have here, but I'm sure it will handle that with ease, and it's true colors will shine.

    The bike feels very solid and stiff, but for everyday Austin use, it's not the weapon of choice.

    I have a '09 MV 5.7 and a '10 AT 6.8. Same deal in AZ terrain-wise, although maybe more of a mixed bag, and here the 6" suspension and slack head angle are welcomed. I hit pedals more than on the MV too.

    I will ride the MV pretty much anywhere I ride the AT, just the AT is so forgiving going downhill and makes it so easy by comparison, I live with the low BB. Climbing is fine for me otherwise, just have to adjust the style a bit is all, as you mentioned.

    Hopping onto the MV and riding the same trails after riding the AT for a few weeks is a cool experience. The MV feels so light and edgy (and I mean that in a good way) but still gobbles up everything the AT does, just with a little more excitement on the descents.

  25. #25
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    I find the rear suspension a bit harsh going down the choppy stuff, and honestly, the difference between 4.75 inches and 6 inches doesn't really feel all that drastic. I'm hitting everything on the AT that I would hit on the MV, which is a testament to the versatility of the MV I guess.

    I'll ride this for another month or so and sell it, I don't feel like it's the right bike for me and the terrain and my riding style.

  26. #26
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    So after some tweaking, I found that setting the rp23 on 2 setting is a great climbing setting. It keeps the travel high and still allows the suspension to work.

  27. #27
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    I thought the BB height was similar if not higher than the MV. Could it be the longer wheelbase which means you are striking big objects on the climbs or is it because of the greater sag in the BB at the top of the travel?

    Always seems to take me a couple of months and lots of tweaking to settle in the a bike. hated the wolf ridge initially but now it is my fav. Like you say,AT has extreme AM geo so I don't think it would suit my needs either.

  28. #28
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    I haven't looked at the bb height differences, but the AT is lower.

    I think if this bike had a 68 degree head angle, I'd be in love.
    It does handle the steep skechy downhill stuff very well I must say. The slack head angle is great for that.

    I think I'll try a longer stem or wider bars to compensate for the head angle.

  29. #29
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    What are you trying to achieve with the bars, more reach?
    Wider bars will spread your arms lowering your reach allowing you to use a shorter stem. They will also slow the steering down[ shorter stem speeds it up]. They will give you more leverage and finer control especially if you raise your stem height which also has the affect of making a shorter stem more comfortable to ride. So slack angled bikes work best with wide high bars on a short stem.I use a 710 on my WR if I had a AT I would go full width , which are stock on a AT.
    The longer stem will make the steering even slower. So hopefully you can increase your reach by using wider bars without having to lengthen the stem. The longer stem will make steering super slow at slower speeds.
    If you need to lengthen the stem then I usually shorten the bar up to keep the same steering speed and may have to drop the stem a bit as narrow bars set to high you loose leverage on tire when pushing in to corners.

  30. #30
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    what I'm trying to achieve...good question.

    On the steep technical climbs, the front end wanders pretty bad, so my thinking is getting my weight more over the front would combat this, and since it's so slack, this shouldn't affect the handling when I'm going fast.

  31. #31
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    That is a tough one to solve with a few tweaks. Be nice to have a travel adjustable fork.Propedal and high shock pressure would be a must to stop rear end sag.

    Like you say wider bars and longer stem would let you lean in to it more but will slow up the steering and could make it wonder more?. Catch 22 really.
    If your willing to compromise downhill control longer lower stem but balanced with narrower bar to speed up steering. Not ideal for control but it gets you up the hill. If you just want to speed up the steering then use narrower bars but it will shorten your reach, effectively pushing your weight back. Just a matter of trying a few things I guess?

    You have tapered headtube so other option is to get cane creek angleset headset to reduce the head angle and increase the effective top tube . From memory I think you need a straight steerer fork, which I think you have? 650b rear wheel could also be worth a try.
    Both options would raise your BB as well.
    Last edited by gvs_nz; 04-10-2011 at 08:45 PM.

  32. #32
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    Another option may be quicker steering tires. If they are draggy at slow speed it can exaggerate your problem. Narrower tires obviously steer quicker, but some larger tires also feel light in the steering. For trail use the biggest tire I use is a Nobby nic 2.4 which steers much lighter than my Big Bettys and many other tires. Wide rims like your Flows will aggravate the problem. I don't use them for trail riding for that reason.May be borrow a narrower rim and tire and see how that goes.

  33. #33
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    Pulwoody, I thought I posted this already, but what about using a CC Angleset. You could increase the HT angle by 1.5*. They are kinda pricey $150 - $200. Although if you consider a CC 110 is about $140 so it isn't really that much more than any other pimped out headset.

    Problem Solved!!!!

  34. #34
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    So here's a new development:

    Jason from Marin contacted me directly after reading my review of the bike. He said that after looking at the pics, he could tell I was running the wrong shock for the bike, and that a rp23 boost valve is what I need. So, a new BV XV is on the way!

    Now that's good customer service when someone from the company is helping you out personally.

  35. #35
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    UPDATE:

    Well, thanks again to Jason at Marin for helping me out, he's been awesome.

    I tried putting a RS Vivid Air on it, and it didn't fit...bummer. I ordered a custom valved Fox RP23, which should be here next week or so, but here's my dilemma...
    This Saturday, I'm taking a trip out to Moab/Grand Junction/Fruita, and I really needed the right shock, so Hammerhead Bikes here in Austin was kind enough to lend me a float r for the trip.

    After one ride on the AT with the correct length shock I can say..

    HOLY SHEET! What a huge amazing difference! The previous shock was 1/4 inch to short, which makes an enormous difference in the bike, so having the proper size shock really opened the bike up.

    The sucker climbs like a mountain goat now! I'm amazed at how much better this seems to climb than the MV. Seriously. The suspension is just so efficient, it was hardly bobbing at all, only moving when the ground, not me, told it to. Just awesome. The handling totally evened out, since the geometry is now correct, and I found myself going too fast in some sections. Since I replaced the shock, I've only ridden it on some relatively flat trail here in Austin, so big drops are a mystery right now, but I can't wait to hit some.

    I'm excited to ride this bike now, whereas a week ago, I wasn't.
    Thanks again Jason.

  36. #36
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    He's got good eyes to spot the wrong length shock. Did you use the one off your MV ?
    Good to see it has turned out for you. I'm tempted to move up from my WR. I love the slack angles to carve the turns. I'd like to go even slacker but I need to trial a full 780 wide bar and short stem on my WR first as the AT top tube is much shorter than the WR even with a set back seat post.

    What difference did he say the boost valve would make.? Could be a good mod for my WR. I suspect the Flaot R will be more efficient riding with built in platform.
    Love the look of the new 2012 Kashima coated shocks. Go well with the Kermit green of the WR.
    Last edited by gvs_nz; 04-21-2011 at 01:27 PM.

  37. #37
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    I think he spotted the shock itself, rather than the length. He said that the new 2011 come spec'd with a RP23 boost valve, which I didn't have, so opened up the discussion of the shock. Yes, I pulled that old shock off the MV.

    He didn't really say what difference the boost valve shock would make, only that Marin recommends that exact shock for that exact bike, so I'll go with what they say. You can read some reviews on the boost valve shocks to get an idea of what they do, but I'm excited. Hopefully, the new shock gets a bit smoother in the choppy rough stuff.

    I took the "new" bike to a trail yesterday with lots of ledges and drops, and it was fantastic. It's been a long time, if ever, that I've ridden that trail that fast. Seriously, this bike is a phenomenal climber, just awesome, and the drops are much nicer with 6 inches.

  38. #38
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    That's interesting as they used the Monarch in 2010.

  39. #39
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    Yeah, i thought the same thing, but this is a recommendation from the Marin guy. I've read very mixed reviews of the boost valve shocks too...as in not good. Many reviews I've read say they had to send them to PUSH to get em right. We'll see.

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