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  1. #1
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    Lynskey Ridgeline, continuing my affair with titanium...

    Having put up a couple of other build threads on here, the first for my Yeti, the second for my Foes, I thought I should continue the tradition with my newest frame, a Lynskey Ridgeline.

    Recently I found that the Yeti didn't have that certain something, and I all but stopped riding it. I was emotionally ready to sell it, but needed something to fill the gap. A titanium frame would be the ideal choice as the hardtail is the ideal winter bike for the UK, and having experience with titanium already I knew how resilient they are to mucky conditions. Come spring clean time, the frame can be treated to a new set of decals after Scotchbriting and will look brand new.

    After stripping the Yeti, cleaning and servicing all the parts as I waited for the Lynskey to arrive, I could build the bike up.



    Sorry about the crappy iPhone pic as this was during the initial setup ride, I will get some better images tomrrow. The seatpost is a different size, as is the front mech, but the top headset transferred over from the Yeti, and a dig in the parts bin revealed a lower headset cup to complete the build.

    I have completed a few rides on it, and I am really enjoying the ride. I was worried that a titanium frame in such a big wheel configuration would be too flexible but quite the opposite. The ride is comfortable but precise, and there isn't a hint of unwanted flex. The local trail centre in the Forest Of Dean would tie the Yeti in knots in places, and I found that I had to really man-handle it to get it to turn in faster corners, but the Lynskey is much easier to ride, and turns much more easily. Our local ride yesterday evening saw me equal my fastest time on the fastest downhill section, so it is certainly no slouch...

    Better pics tomorrow.

  2. #2
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    some better pics. i washed her yesterday evening,





    the welds are pretty tidy.



    i also changed the 2x10 out in favour of 3x10, the new cranks have the ti axle too.



    i know it is old fashioned, but im not getting any younger, and i cleared a steep technical section on thursday that i havent been able to to for 4-5 years, so it works better than 2x10 for me.




  3. #3
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    Nice bike, I have just done a deal on a second hand Pro 29 frame so my first ti bike build is coming up soon.

    I know what you mean about 3x for mtb's. I have one bike set up with 2x9 and I think it requires more shifts between the front chainrings than a 3x where most riding is done in middle ring with the others just giving a few extra gears at the top and bottom. Also most 2x give up some of the lowest ratios.

  4. #4
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    Can I please ask what size fork you are running, is it 140 as it looks or a shorter 120. I'm just about to get a 26" ridgeline LT. I'm actually after it for the same reason as you (winter riding), my 20 year old Manitou with an original Pace fork is just too old these days, the elastomers are just too soft.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uopi View Post
    Can I please ask what size fork you are running, is it 140 as it looks or a shorter 120. I'm just about to get a 26" ridgeline LT. I'm actually after it for the same reason as you (winter riding), my 20 year old Manitou with an original Pace fork is just too old these days, the elastomers are just too soft.
    It looks like about 100mm or maybe 120mm at most. I have finished my Pro 29 and I am running a 100mm Reba on it. If you are retiring a 20 year old fork then I think you will find even 100mm of air sprung goodness to be sufficient on your Ridgeline 26'er.

    Here is my Lynskey with the 100mm Reba.


    Untitled by ozynigma, on Flickr

    Here is my Banshee Paradox 29'er with a 120mm Manitou Tower Pro.


    Untitled by ozynigma, on Flickr

  6. #6
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    Thanks for getting back to me, pulled the trigger on the Ridgeline 26 and got a 140mm DT Swiss for to match it. Now to screw it all together.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uopi View Post
    Can I please ask what size fork you are running, is it 140 as it looks or a shorter 120. I'm just about to get a 26" ridgeline LT. I'm actually after it for the same reason as you (winter riding), my 20 year old Manitou with an original Pace fork is just too old these days, the elastomers are just too soft.
    hey. in the photos the talas forks are set at 110, which is nice on-road, but off road i usually pop them out to 140mm.

  8. #8
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    I have had a great time with the 29er, but it is now sold. I have however just ordered a new ridgeline, this time a 650, and the next few weeks will be the hardest, waiting.

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    I am interest to know how you like the 650B compared to the 29er.
    2006 Litespeed Vortex 6/4
    2009 Motobecane Fly Team 29er
    2014 Lynskey Pro650 FS-140

  10. #10
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    So am I! Still waiting. The UK importer has forwarded the decal kit to the LBS as they have none at Lynskey. I'm getting the 2015 model, but don't want the new screw on decals.

  11. #11
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    I was unsure whether to start a new thread for the new frame/bike, but have decided to piggy back onto this one, after all, most of the transmission parts will carry over from the 29er to the new 650.

    In anticipation of the frame arriving in the next couple of weeks, I have been trying to pass the time productively. Having sold the wheels from the 29er, I really didn't like blue, I ordered a pair of red hubs from the LBS. I had them spec the same stainless steel freehub body as I had on the 29er, I know it should last well.

    Yesterday, I stripped them down with the aim of re-greasing the bearings. I know the newer Hope bearings don't last as long as the older ones seemed to, and wondered if it was caused by a poor quality grease, or more likely lack of it.



    Turns out it's both. It looks like they use a very thin, clear, colourless grease that feels like silicon. In my opinion, it's not heavy enough to lubricate a bearing that is doing such hard work, so I thoroughly cleaned it all out, and added something much thicker.



    My favourite grease for hubs is a little known product from Motorex, called 'Grease 2000'. Is mega thick, and is hard to clean off, is waterproof, and is almost too thick for some jobs. I don't have any pics of the grease going in, I didn't want any grease near the camera!

    The hubs feel a little sticky now, as you would expect, but are still very smooth. I wonder if hope adding only just enough grease is simply so that they feel smooth when you pull them from the box?

    Two other little jobs I performed today, I reassembled the rear mech, but added the titanium jockey wheels I sourced from eBay.



    I did have blue Hope ones before, but they had to go.



    And I assembled the XT shifter pods onto the Hope tech3 levers. I'm so impressed with the design if this little setup, It's so slick.





    Still eagerly waiting...

  12. #12
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    The spokes arrived earlier this week, so I started the wheel build. Before lacing them, I took the time to hand polish the spokes, something I have never done before, and while it is a dirty and time consuming job the reward is fantastic.



    No dramas lacing them up, I took the time as I always do to line up the logos on the hubs with the logos and valve hole on the rims. With the polished spokes, the wheels look killer.






  13. #13
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    Thanks for sharing the build. Keep us posted. Thanks

  14. #14
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    The frame has finally landed.


  15. #15
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    What forks on the spec sheet?

  16. #16
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    The fork is a used Rockshox Revelation RCT3, I think from 2013. I've just realised that I took pics of the Forks while they were apart for a check over, and hadn't posted them here. I hunted high and low for these and had to settle for a used pair as I wanted the teflon coloured uppers rather than the black, and white lowers.



    The quality of the components in the damper on these is fantastic, It reminds me of the clockwork parts in high end R/C cars I used to race.



    The forks are back together, and are ready to fit.

    So, the frame. It's lovely. I'm sorry I don't have any pics, I'm so tired this evening from a long day at work, I didn't take any pics before I left. It is supplied without the decals fitted as I didn't want the screw on decals the frames have this MY, and it looks a bit weird naked. But I'm seriously tempted to leave it like that...

    The frame has post mounts for the brake, so I have ordered an adapter from the LBS, along with the bottom bracket, seat clamp and cranks. While a little bit of me was tempted to try the new Hope crankarms, I wanted to stay with Raceface. Every bike I have built for the last, thinking about it hard, 12 years?, has had Raceface cranks, and I love them.
    With any luck the remaining parts will be in the shop tomorrow so I can get it built.

  17. #17
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    I dislike integrated headsets. I think that although they look sleek, they are not the most robust of designs. So when I saw that the new frames had them as standard, I met this as a challenge. I know that both King and Hope make really nice quality bearings, so I'd choose to fit one of the two. I was a little disappointed to learn that these frames run Italian dimensions, which rules out both of my choices. No problem I thought, Just make new cups to accept the Hope bearings, which are really easy to source in the U.K.

    I have a few handy in the workshop, and a piece of billet Ti that was earmarked for headset development.



    Only problem, try as I might, I can't remove the headset cups from the frame. They look to be bonded in, I tried a bit of heat, but don't want to damage the frame, so I have to admit defeat.

    For now I have bought a cheap Chinese headset from the LBS just to get the thing rolling. Perhaps in time I will have another go at it.



    I had hoped to have built the thing up by now, but none of the parts arrived today at the LBS. None. Very disappointed at this, but what can I do? Cry a little bit.

    Rather than do nothing, I decided to dry assemble the frame/forks/headset/stem to see if I needed to trim any steerer, it turns out that the steerer is only about 5-10mm too long, so for the time being I will just runs a few extra stackers. One thing led to another and before I knew it I had greased the headset and was starting the build with what I had. The rear axle was a tight fit into the dropout, so this was chased through with a tap, I'm surprised at the amount of material it removed.



    Wheels on, brakes on. I found a silver rear brake mount, I will replace this with black when it arrives. Bars in, seatpost too.

    Rear mech on, and cabled up. Its starting to look like a bike now. Dig a saddle out, add that too. The Thomson seatpost is a thing of beauty, the fit and finish are perfect. One thing I dislike though is the cable routing from the bar mounted lever. It heads straight forward, and looks a little untidy. In a moment of clarity I found a solution, and made a little doofer to aim the cable in the same direction as the brake and shifters.



    It's quite hard to get a pic of it fitted as it's a very busy area on the bars, but you get the idea:-







    And how we stand this evening. Still waiting for the bb, cranks, and the dropper guide seat clamp.



    Next week, I guess.

  18. #18
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    Finally, all the parts have arrived:-



    And I this evening had the spare time to assemble the thing. The hope bottom bracket is a thing of beauty, and is so nice to fit. The cranks are also lovely, but don't have that special 'something' that previous models have. I was slightly foxed at the apparent special too needed to attach the four arm spider to the R/H arm, turns out it is simply a HG bottom bracket tool.

    It's raining out, but only drizzle, so I took the opportunity to grab a few shots of the bike.









    And my favourite view:-



    Not ridden yet, I think I'll need to play around with the saddle and bar positions a little, but I'm pleased with the outcome.


  19. #19
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    Maiden voyage this evening, after a quick spin around outside just to check the saddle and bar positions. Initially I was worried that the stem was wrong, but after getting the saddle angle dialled it feels perfect.



    Doesn't feel any different than a 26er, until you ride over grass, where it is noticeably easier to ride. The little loop we do has a horrible climb across some grass on the very top of a hill, and because it is so open, there is a lot of moss on the ground and this rolls so well over it.

    I know the trails are drying out well as its both (relatively)dry and windy atm, but this bike works well in the really technical stuff.

    So far, I really like. I don't miss the 29er at all.

  20. #20
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    I have ridden it nearly every other day since the build. It took a while to get the bar position just right, and I finally moved the last stem stacker from above the stem to below last week, this has made the biggest difference. Just moving the bars up 5mm, has taken a little weight off of the front of the bike which has taken a little but of the sag away which has changed the way the bike steers. It was good before, its even better now.

    Most of the rides had been at night, but since the clocks have gone forward most of my rides have had a little sunlight.



    Regarding the tubeless, I was having trouble getting the things to stay up more than 24 hours. In despair one evening I put 70 psi in the pair, and to my surprise this was all that was needed. They stayed up over night and I let them down to normal operating pressure to ride and since then I expect I only lose about 5 psi every two weeks.

  21. #21
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    Great tread, nice pics.

  22. #22
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    excellent work kdog !!!

  23. #23
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    Lovely bike !... .These bikes are an absolute joy to ride eh. I recently bought a Seven 26er which looks very similar to your in terms of frame shape and geometry. The only difference is where the seat stays and top tube meet. Like you, I also switched back to 3X for the extra range.

    There hasn't been a day I've not ridden bike since I got it.

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